MartyNZ
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Posts posted by MartyNZ
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1 hour ago, cash1000 said:
Pick up completed gearbox yesterday. Great service from Vince.
Do you have a drain bung with a magnet in it? Just in case there is still a few bits in there.
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15 hours ago, pete roper said:
Keith, I too have not heard of a RM or Coppa Italia flywheel shitting the bed.
I took Cash1000's RM flywheel to the NDT dept at work. I showed them pictures of cracked and broken flywheels, so they knew what to look for. The next day they said "No cracks. Surprisingly it's perfect".
Edit: this is an aluminum alloy flywheel.
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OEM part
Oil pump needle roller bearing P/N GU92252210
Replacement Part
Bearing P/N NKI10/20, size 10x22x20.
Difference: Single row of longer needles, instead of 2 short rows.
Source: Any good bearing retailer.
Oh, I see there is a reference for another alternative already:
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On 1/7/2023 at 9:27 AM, MartyNZ said:
Now I find that the oil pump is worn. The needle roller inner race is grooved, and the shaft has 1.5mm slop. As the direction of side loads on the pump shaft are opposite when changing from chain to gear, a new one is on order.
A new bearing has fixed the shaft slop. It cost $40 instead of a mega squillion for another pump.
The new bearing has full length needle rollers instead of two sets of short rollers.
Roller Bearing P/N NKI10/20, size 10x22x20 (same as GU92252210).
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Did you lubricate the seal with new oil before you fitted the new filter? It lets you tighten the filter without tearing the seal.
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@Scud had low oil pressure in a V11. I think he found a broken out bit of gasket where the oil module meets the block. With a Roper plate, you have 2 gaskets to check.
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Has the oil filter partly unwound?
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2 hours ago, cash1000 said:
Good point about the screws. I wonder if they are Guzzi specific or are available from any good fasteners supplier
Well yes, any metric grade 10.9 bolt would do if it has: -
Rolled, not cut threads
A section of plain shank to fit the hole snugly
A head size that doesn't interfere with the clutch.
The genuine MG part has already taken care of these considerations, and I see MG Cycle sells them for $1.68 ea. Since it's standard on lots of models, I'd ask Motokiwi for a price.
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4 hours ago, cash1000 said:
The workshop manual says to remove the alternator first. Any idea why you need to do this?
I've got the alternator off my bike at the moment. You are welcome to come over to look and see how little it will help with accessing the clutch.
BTW, the manual says "Screws “B” (flywheel bolts) must be replaced with new ones upon the following reassembly, due to the high load and stresses they are subject to; (apply thread locking product, Loctite, medium strength, to the screws and tighten to torques of Nm 40 ÷ 42)."
P/N GU12067701 Qty 6.
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2 hours ago, docc said:
A complete, new oil pump (GU30146400) ?
And/ or the "Roller Bearing" 10x22x20 (GU92252210) ?
[How many kays on that V11, @MartyNZ?]
I see that HMB and Stein-Dinse both offer their own alternatives to the MG design, and I believe that the bearings are included. They also both sell the woodruff key GU13148300 that was missing from my pump shaft.
The bike shows 53,326 miles (85,819 km) on the speedo.
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1 hour ago, audiomick said:
Are you aware of this? (You need a bit of spare pocket money....)
https://hmb-guzzi.de/Oil-Pump-CNC-1100-cc-models
The bloke and his business enjoy a very good reputation in German speaking Guzzi circles.
Thanks, AudioMick. What do the German speaking people think of the Stein-Dinse pump? It is a lot cheaper than the HMB pump.
Moto Guzzi Oil pump ŽspezialŽ - big models - Stein-Dinse Online-Shop
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52 minutes ago, Tomchri said:
Marty, after reading this you totally $§~|\£_^ my mind, soon Christmas right. It is a sweet upgrade in your head, everything more accurate. Had Pete Jackson gear drive on RB Mopar, and a BB Chevy . Yes perfect timing is of importance.
Cheers Tom.
I decided that I had a loose timing chain after a timing light showed erratic movement on the flywheel as rpm increased.
I tried to get video of this, but it was beyond the combined abilities of borescope, old workshop laptop, & me.
The obvious fix was a new chain & tensioner. I chose the more expensive gear replacement because, um...
Now I find that the oil pump is worn. The needle roller inner race is grooved, and the shaft has 1.5mm slop. As the direction of side loads on the pump shaft are opposite when changing from chain to gear, a new one is on order.
A Valpolini gasket is waiting to go on after the timing chest cover is powder coated.
I tried to remind myself of a lesson from my father: "If it's not broken, don't try to fix it", but I'm a slow learner.
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On 5/18/2019 at 12:53 AM, gstallons said:
Question : what type of metal are these gears made of ?
Joe uses a very good grade of steel, EN24T, typical for gear and heavy-duty shaft manufacture.
On 5/18/2019 at 6:38 AM, GuzziMoto said:I know they are steel. I do not know what alloy / grade of steel.
Joe says: "Machined from EN24T. This is a Nickel Chromium Molybdenum that combines a good high tensile steel strength with shock resistance, ductility and wear resistance with a tensile strength of 850/1000 N/mm². The Gears are then further surface-hardened by a Tufftride process to give an enhanced surface wear resistance which gives the finished black surface".
International Steel Specification Comparison (EN24T)
BS 970:1955 EN24T
BS 970:1991 817M40TGerman / DIN 34CrNiMo6
French AFNOR 35NCD6
American AISI / SAE 4340
German Werkstoff No. 1.6582
European Standard EN10277-5-
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On 12/14/2022 at 1:40 PM, Joe said:
That works for me!
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3 hours ago, cash1000 said:
I'm about to start removing the gearbox.
Anything special I need to watch out for?
Have you read these posts?
CRABBING the spine frame - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19887-green-attitude-gratitude/?do=findComment&comment=222401
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8 hours ago, cash1000 said:
i.e how I'm going to support bike:
I have a 1 tonne chain hoist and straps you can use to secure the bike steering yoke to a beam.
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23 minutes ago, docc said:
I do recall a member who owned other bikes and simply forgot the V11 must have the clutch lever pulled in to start, even if in neutral . . .
Not just one member...
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I thought " kill switch" but no that doesn't affect lights on my bike. Same with the phase sensor on the camshaft, which can be intermittent before it fails.
Could there be a wire loose/broken in the birds nest at the battery?
Or a broken wire at the base of the ignition switch.
Or a connector coming apart at the steering head.
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This guy had one for sale a couple of months ago, but the listing closed. Maybe you could contact him and ask. The price was good.
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Have you checked your 30 amp fuse?
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19672-30-amp-fuse-failure/
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My bike is ZGUKRAKRX3M114954, which I interpret as a 2003 KR. It has a long black frame, extra gearbox brace, external pump, and short chin pad tank.
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/7872-lemans-vin-numbers/?do=findComment&comment=88097
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Music from Vince at Ruapuna.
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5 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:
I use Marvel Mystery Oil (US brand, a century old) in the fuel periodically because it removes carbon, varnish, and white deposits. This appears to be actual rust, probably from the PO never changing the filter. In any case, it never washed out with anything I tried, and there's plenty in the injector screens as well.
Sounds like my experience. I thought the filter material was breaking up.
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2 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
TFW you knew what you'd find. Surprising the thing ran well. Obviously never seen daylight since new.
I wonder if some 2-stroke oil would reduce corrosion in those parts? It could leave a protective film behind as fuel evaporates. I tried this on two daughter's cars when they went overseas for a year, with no ill effects
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Reardrive Contact impression check.
in 24/7 V11
Posted
When I needed a replacement rear drive, I got one from Italy. It was in good order, except for freeplay that I thought was too high, been that way from new. The workshop manual did not help me, it is sparse and seems to apply to earlier models. I made pinion and crown wheel shims, then made tools (a bit crude) to allow measurements. After 14 tries, I eventually got both preload and freeplay low enough to be happy with. A slow and tedious process. Contact impression interpretation is a black art, with vague contact marks that need a strong light and a good imagination. You will never get it perfect on a worn C&W set.
The bevel box is now quiet and runs cool.
However, if your box is ok, then the only maintenance needed is oil change and spline grease.