leroysch
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Posts posted by leroysch
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Had good luck using this Motion Pro gizmo bleeding the clutch. Just make sure its fully seated..there's a gasket thing in the socket to direct the fluid thru the tube. If you decide to tackle this before a tire change, removing the starter motor et. al. provided decent access.
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Headlamp had burned out (connector has power) on the V11 and she needs a new front tire...so on the lift she goes. Fairing removed (for my piece of mind in case getting it up on the OEM stand goes awry) and in the process of removing the headlamp from its bucket this hollow cylindrical thing falls to the floor (headlamp included for scale). Can't make out any internal threads, and the ID is consistent with the OD of that bottom center screw that allows the headlight to be removed from the bucket. Nothing jumped out at me in the PL/exploded view for the headlight. Is it a spacer thru which the aforementioned bottom center screw fits before it engages the clip in the bucket?
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49 minutes ago, Scud said:
Re mirrors - I don't know anything about Valentin. But they are genuine Napoleons. And like others have said... you really need to get that bike tuned up. Don't try to cure the symptom at the bars, try to cure the problem in the engine. The Napoleon mirrors look cool and give better visibility than the stockers. Those are the only reasons to buy them. And on the down side, they somewhat limit your lane-splitting ability.
Re the BMW cruisers - I rode them at a BMW demo day at my local dealer. I really wanted to like them, but they shook terribly at a reasonable mid-range RPM - and the seat vibrated (which I guess is a "feature" for some people). So you either had to lug it or wind it up. Apparently this was done intentionally so it would feel more like a Harley... so sad... they sure look pretty though. Instead of a new BMW cruiser, you could buy a low mileage Audace and a California Touring and still have money left over.
I was eyeballing a guy's HD at a vendor in Florida and noticed a toggle switch around the passenger pillion...asked what it was for. Wellllll.....it wasn't for a heated seat (in the conventional sense).
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OEM, never installed, includes rack, brackets, fasteners and instructions. $170 shipped CONUS.
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Between the wiring and the kick stand, guess we all have a stake in these ground beef's.
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Damn these essay questions.....
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I was able to squeeze one in right here....
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22 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
The stability is controlled by the shop stand and the front lift support by the scissor lifter. It's stable. You can of course have a simple small wooden frame to locate on the sump when you use the scissor lift if your worried. My large holder was made for an engine change where I lifted the chassis over the engine on the lift bench and for engine storage. An overkill in all other situations.
Ciao
Ditto.
Using the OEM stand and a scissor's jack under the sump, the bike is very stable. I've had the bike up/down/up/downon the lift, tank off/on/off/on, etc. with this configuration without a worry. Only pucker factor I encounter is the use of the OEM stand (with sockets to the appropriate bike nuts) raising and lowering the bike. I have a cheater pipe safety wired to the OEM stand...for reasons you can infer. (You would think an ex-flatbed owner/operator would have known better...)
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...and on my 916, it stays amber at idle....until the cooling fans kick in and turns red (at idle). At times, I find it useful to have that confirmation correlated with the coolant temperature gauge.
On the V11, I just mounted a cheapo voltmeter to get confirmation of RPM dependent battery charging overvoltage.
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Inspected the plugs, intakes...cleaned out the sump and strainer...and got around to cleaning the air box which had been laying on the bench. I was surprised by the amount of fluid which had pooled inside (~ 1ml or so) and got curious. Looks like the air box has a false bottom ending near the aft end. In any event set this up to help mop up whatever cares to dribble down. Will rotate it 180 degrees and see if anything comes out from below the false bottom. I know, OCD...but might as well satisfy my curiosity while it's off the bike...
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Dry outside....oil trail starts inside the airbox (at the front) where the tube enters. Oil trail exits the air box about the external grommet surrounding the LH boot.
Just to see, I'll check the LH/RH boot inner surface and engine interface for residue comparison.
9 minutes ago, docc said:Is it wet around the outside of it, or is all that oil coming from the crankcase venting and trying to get out from inside the airbox on the left side?
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1 minute ago, docc said:
My old tub may be breathing rather more oil into its airbox than most.
Yet, it is not on its sidestand very much, living rather languishingly above the footlights on her dais.
Still, that "vapor line" from the frame spine to the airbox connects to the left side? Am I recalling that correctly?
And it only pushes on? No clamps?
Yeah..it's on the LH side...mine didn't have a clamp on it.
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13 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
He needs to remove the air filter and look INSIDE the airbox at the airbox floor, not just at the filter.
Ciao
"The only path I can make out is inside the airbox starting at the front where a tube enters with the trail leading into the cavernous depths on the LH side of said box."
Ummmmm....
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Appreciate the above places to look.
Removed the tank and air box to get a better look at the situation. The breather pipe (goes from the bottom front of the spine to the top of the motor just aft of the Vee, right?) looks clean along its length and interfaces as does the return line from the side of the spine to the sump adjacent to the drain plug (right?). The only path I can make out is inside the airbox starting at the front where a tube enters with the trail leading into the cavernous depths on the LH side of said box. The airbox itself was reasonably clean and the filter wasn't oil fouled. I'm assuming that if either the crankcase vent or return line was the culprit, I'd be able to see evidence of their malfeasance somewhere along their runs.
Reading thru various forum threads my understanding of what's going on here is that the crankcase breather vents thru that big tube going to the bottom front of the spine where two subsequent paths: one to the airbox; the other thru the spine to the sump return line. Please correct my thinking if wrong.
At this point I'm going to check/compare the plugs....drop the sump...scope out the situation while doing a oil/filter change...and button her back up and keep an eye on things.
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Noticed that the bike was doing something for the first time (17,700 miles)....marking its spot. Bike was on the sidestand..and the path (from the floor) goes up to the shift lever
to the LH side boot to the airbox.
It's oil....checked everything I had fiddled with recently (clutch bleeder, starter) and inspected about the lid to the airbox (fuel tank not off quite yet) with nothing else of note. Engine oil level (OEM stand) is low but in band. Checked my records and its been 7000 miles since I put a new one on (ooops). At this point my plan is to remove the fuel tank....replace the air filter and see if anything else jumps out at me. Anything else I should be checking while I'm in there?
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We have a similar high regard for black snakes...we run across copperheads fairly regular here in SW Missouri. One adult black snake liked to cool itself in the well house drip bucket. No problem...whenever I showed up for my weekly physical plant inspection/maintenance I'd jostle the bucket and he/she would slither off uneventfully. Funny (not really) about the copperhead in your shop...a few days ago I found a juvenile black snake in mine. Dismissed it at first as wayward HD fringe on the floor.....
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V11 representation covered at Cedar Vale, KS....
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Handsome dog....looks pretty mellow. Brought my boxer with me when I was driving...did >500,000 miles with her. Always had to lift her into the cab...except once in winter in Wyoming...man it was cold! She knew the drill...up into the driver's floorboard..do a quick 180 for paw wipe. As a pup..she had a thing for the driver's seat air line. One time in particular...I-10 in New Orleans (the elevated part with no shoulder) during morning rush hour...I heard a concurrent yip of surprise and PSSSSSSSSSSSSSST of escaping air. By then I knew to have a few air line splice kits available.
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Where my problem was when that happened to me......
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On 4/11/2021 at 8:00 PM, Rox Lemans said:
+1 on the airbox comment. Max flow with zero turbulance. A lot of homework.
I wanted to scrap mine but thought of the nightmares of air turbulance on jetting on my old CB750. Made it run like sh!t at high speed. Decided to go open airbox. Best of both worlds. More air, smooth flow.
@Scud I'll be bleeding mine soon. Just did my CB which reminded me how much of a mind numbing bother a tiny air bubble can be. But got it. Brakes are not so bad. But something about doing the clutch...😂
The 8mm bleeder from motion pro worked like a champ for me on the clutch:
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0482
The 10mm ones were a disaster for the brakes...and I did the clutch first so can't point at a learning curve issue. Wound up using an earlier version of this which got the job done.
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...and the tire is mounted consistent with the direction of travel!
Got a similar model (mine has the bead breaking gizmo at waist level) for myself last Xmas. Got to learn about concrete anchor bolts and hammer drills as a side benefit. One of the better investments I've made, IMO. Creates a back saving elevated work surface. Ease of use is partly a function of the wheel design; shallow drop centers are a pain (think F6B/Gold Wing). Just put a new front tire on the H2 yesterday and it took more time taking the body work off for an oil change than demounting/mounting the tire.
I don't like the fact that the wrinkle coating flakes off the center post in use with the debris falling about the wheel bearing if so equipped. I try to remember to put a rag over the bearing.
Then there's the lube. I've been using up the NoMar stuff...and started out being pretty stingy with it. I apply it generously now (to the tire/wheel)
Follow the instructions for the demount bar (the thing you insert "flat" then rotate 90 degrees to capture the bead) carefully. If your pivot point in getting the bead to clear the wheel is too high up on the bar you'll bend/break it's tip. Also, sometimes its difficult to get the flat part of it's tip below the bead of the tire (in preparation for rotating it 90 degrees). If you got one of their bead locking gizmos, it helps stiffen the sidewall enough locally to get the tip underneath the bead.
Ok...I've got a BMW rear staged for replacement..and keep forgetting what the mark on the new tire means...heavy or light. Gotta do some internet research....!
Enjoy!
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34 minutes ago, docc said:
I found one of my Route books and a couple Route Cards that I made to get to the Barber Vintage Festival entirely on backroads and around all the little towns. The cards are just sections of the DelOrme copied in black&white, then highlighted to read at a glance. Worked a charm. Had I been on my Sport, I would have been using the Zūmo, but was on the Honda GB 500 that year with a tankbag only . . .
Guess you went thru...and not around...this Tennessee hamlet...
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23 hours ago, docc said:
I spy an Öhlins reservoir? Not a Sachs rear shock, then?
Correct...an install by a previous owner....
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On 2/1/2021 at 12:14 AM, Lucky Phil said:
Yep thats it the shock full travel bumper. Horrible to replace. The spring needs to come off the shock and the eye end removed. I've had to get this done before, quite tricky.
Ciao
Thank you Gentlemen.
Some chunks were also retained within the spring and remnants were also still in the "installed" location.
In the meantime, I hope the wife isn't planning on an elaborate dinner anytime soon....
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Mystery Headlight (?) Part
in Technical Topics
Posted
Thx 80CX. I've got the same part securely fastened to the bike.
I reassembled the headlight using the "spacer" about that bottom center screw. The minor corrosion deposits on the spacer at each end aligned with deposits on the screw, and along with the screw/spacer OD/ID consistency..well....too much of a coincidence not to believe that's where it was installed.