Tinus89

No problem:) Happy we agree! So I took a video of the bike running (she was cold though, the valves are a bit louder then normal. Initial video with rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4chn9SpxJQM New video without rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkaRpMgOKxA Here is what I took out (no, not the soda cap, that's for perspective): Actually, the "cap" on mine was loose, which may explain the rattle, but I don't really feel like putting it back if I don't need it. Disassembled: So, with the second compression test being good, I will still take her for a test ride somewhere this week, but I expect this topic could be marked "solved" soon:) UPDATE: Took her for a spin. Filled her up with 102 fuel and drove her. Hard. In the dark. I mean real hard, almost drove myself off the road missing a corner . But seriously... It's interesting how after more than a year of misery and mistrust in the bike, the love comes back so fast. WOW I love this machine. After the rather spirited ride, I left her idle for minutes while readjusting the headlight (up, don't want to miss corners again) and then revved her a number of times real hard. No oil out of the breather vent, so I call it: FIXED! Wonderful community. Thanks all for all the help!

I looked back at the 1999-2001 parts diagram, and no "check valve" ball. Tinus89, how about a brief video of how she runs and idles without this thing? Photos of what you found and where? Are we thinking it was fitted between the [metal] "breather pipe" #14 and the [rubber] "breather pipe" #18? Yes, correct. Interestingly, I cannot find any bike drawing (any year) where that check valve is in place. It is a short metal bushing with a ball bearing in there, which slips into the metal breather pipe (14). I can imagine that if hose (18) is very tight, it could also remain stuck in the hose once you pull it. I will get some pics of it online hopefully tomorrow, busy day/eve tonight. A video I will be able to do Wednesday earliest, but will do! You would have to plug the drainback line also. The pressure would get out that way if you plug the vent. Why exactly? The crankcase, frame tube and drainback line are an enclosed system, of which the only exit is the vent line (directly behind the headstock bearings) which (normally) goes to the airbox. Yes, I did find the pulsing. But when I kept the hose closed for say 30sec, and then let go of it, there was no pressure release (thus no buildup)

I agree this is an entirely different sound compared to mine. To me it sounds like valve train noise or maybe small end noise (although I've never heard that on a V-twin, so I'm imagining). Before pulling everything, could you either by using a stethoscope or large screwdriver to the ear pinpoint whether it is intake or exhaust side? Maybe even run it with the valve cover off for a min (careful of the oil spray)? Then at least you know what you are looking for.

So I re-did the compression test, this time correctly: warm engine, WO throttle. Values after 3 compressions strokes: Left: 145 PSI Right: 135 PSI I still have to go and find the correct value. Also put my finger on the crankcase vent for a while during running, but she does not seem to build any pressure really.

I may have rushed this one a little bit. Engine was cold when I did the test. I was holding the gauge, not the one starting, so I'm not sure whether the throttle was WO when I did them... Should the engine be warm? I've never heard about that. Throttle should be WO indeed, forgot to check that. I'd love to see a tutorial for that! Pressure, hot or cold engine, how to keep the engine from spinning due to the pressure...

Hey all, After sucking so much of your knowledge here, it is time for me to bring some back to the community . Or in other words: Ladies and gentlemen, we've got him! . Now in technical terms: I found the rattle. Good and bad though. This is how: - Ran the engine without rocker covers, no issues found. In re-checking the valve clearance with the plugs installed, I sensed a difference in compression between left and right. - Did a compression test: Left 9 bar compression, right only 7.5bar. Strange. Poored some oil on the piston and re-tested: straight to 9bar. So it's the rings leaking, not the valves. Does that matter? A difference in compression? She runs fine, really. Then a bloke who was visiting said: so you have blow-by, does it not build up crankcase pressure? In my explaining of the nice Guzzi crankcase vent system, I passed by the check valve in the vent line. Then we both looked at each other and went: nooooo...... Took out the check valve, ran the engine: silence. The rattle was the little ball jumping up and down on the crankcase pressure. So, some questions: 7.5bar compression, is that real bad? What would cause the rings on only one piston to slowly go? (As it initially only occurred on a real hot engine, slowly increasing over time). Does it hurt to run the engine without the check valve in the vent line? Would you already take her apart again and machine the cylinders, buy new rings and possibly even new pistons? Or wait until oil consumption becomes an issue?

Why not just buy 4m of fuel line and some connectors, run it with the tank on the workbench plumbed right up? As long as you elevate the tank, but not too much more than normal (otherwise you will increase fuel pressure), you should be fine. I presume you have an external pump?

All, Again thanks a lot for the help, really appreciated! I am trying to find the time to pull the heads and inspect them! Anything in particular I should focus on? Valve stem/guide wear? There are two things I just want to make perfectly clear, as it seems there is some misconception... - The sound did NOT start after any work on the engine! It first started to appear with a hot engine, and increasing in loudness and earlyness after a cold start (now - I did the full re-assembly myself, not a mechanic focusing on 5 projects at the same time

Thanks for doing so! So clearly, I should not expect it to be a loose seat. When the crank was out, I brought it to an experienced engine shop, who measured and repolished the bigends on the crankshaft. The rods were measured for roundness and fitted with new shells, but not reground. The little ends were only visually inspected I guess, I dropped the whole assembly off there. I followed the shop's advise there and did not try to save money. E.G. they suggested I could re-use the conrod bolts once, but I decided not to do so. One main bearing was replaced, the other was OK. Oil pump was removed and inspected, bearing replaced. Because the oil pressure was measured with half-warm engine at 4.5bar at just off idle, I did not see reason to further investigate the pump. Cam chain and sprockets were all replaced! Look, I really value everyone's expertise, but I disagree I am trying to fix it half-way by not doing certain stuff resulting in a 12-page topic. The only alternative is either driving her till something fails, or dropping her off at a shop and let them find it for me, but because it requires an investigation, the counter will start at 2000 euros in labor easily.

You're not being an @#$$#! about it at all Phil. I don't have the wrenching experience to guesstimate whether this is a sound that could originate in the heads or not, nor do I have the tools to remove the valves. I really don't mind working on the bike (matter of fact I like to) and last winter I already rebuild the entire engine (except for the heads that is), costing me ~1000 euros in parts+labour (labour on the crankshaft). Before I do anything, I just want to make sure I know what I am looking for . Also, time spent on here is mostly my bosses' time, not mine Could it be a loose valve seat and if so, should that be visible? Should I heat up the head a bit to check if it's loose? The sound starts after warming up 2-3min.

I can't remember me saying so? The sound clearly originates from the top of the engine, not from the gearbox...

Makes perfect sense. However, as you can hear on the "revving" video, the sound is hard to hear at 2000rpm and impossible at 3000. Well, I don't know if you can roll along under load on your V11 at 2000rpm, but I can't without creating all kinds of other noises (rattles on the bike, in the drivetrain etc). It does not rattle more when I close the throttle. Before replacing the main bearing, the oil pressure was measured with a semi-warm engine: 4,5bar straight after tickover. After that I even replaced the main bearing, causing it only to get better... I'm not worried about oil pressure issues at all. The only things I can really think of are still an issue with the timing chain/tensioner (is that possible when new?), but for me it sounds too loud and metallic for that. Therefore... valve train. The rocker arms moving side to side is of course something I can check relatively easily (run her with the valve covers off). Some questions: - Should the rocker arms even come off the "lower" side (against the spring) or stay firmly into place? - Could a worn valve stem cause a sound like this? - Could a loose valve seat cause a sound like this?

I replaced the original chain+tensioner, but the sound stayed. Later, I also took apart the entire engine, inspected everything, had a specialist shop repair and rebalance the crankshaft, replaced the big end shells, one crankshaft bearing (timing side) because of too much wear etc. After re-assembly, the sound was still there. The only part I did not take apart was the heads....

It does vary with throttle, as you can hear in the second video as well, frequency increases with revs and slowly dissipates at higher revs. I don't hear any heavier thump kind of sound though... Lifters like in tappets? Because cam, tappets, rockers etc. are in good condition. I think I do, but is there any way to confirm? Should I maybe run her without valve covers for a min or two to inspect? Plugs are fine, not coated in oil. Also the exhaust port is clean, she does not smoke. I can take them out and take a picture of them tomorrow? That would be straight after shooting this video... I'd say since the sound stated to originate (start of this topic) ~2500km? However the last 500km it has gotten significantly worse. Valves are holding their adjustment quite good.

So, while I continue to ride her, the rattling noise still increases... and keeps me worried. After a good long ride, I made another (hopefully clearer) set of videos: Here a video of it idling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4chn9SpxJQM And here a video of me revving her a little: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9y8YuI5X0I Any new ideas?

You are not dreaming, one can indeed place the timing wheel 180 degrees the other way. I can't figure why Guzzi made that possible, but you can.

Good thinking. However, there was no damage to the cilinders that indicates slappy pistons, and the pistons including their coating on the "wings" were really in good shape. Any small end play I would expect to cause a continuous tapping sound instead of irregular?

I was hoping to have another listen to that video, but it seems the link is broken... Could you maybe re-upload it? Thanks

On technical point of view, I fully agree Luhbo. Have you ever seen a loose seat on a Guzzi head? Could that make noise without loosing compression?

I don't really see why you would need to do anything else then properly degreasing the pressure plates?

Soooo, That seller only has one feedback because here in the NL, there is not much use of Ebay. I know the guys is reliable and a real enthousiast. Why? Because that's me

If the RAM 6-speed single disk is identical to the Guzzi single disk hub for the Scura/Tenni/Rosso Mandello, I have one for you (new). It is located in the NL though and I would need to get some other clutch tool instead (I use it as a clutch installation tool). PM if you are interested.

If you refer to Page 31 pos 40, main bearing gasket: yes, very easily. I replaced mine when I had the engine apart, it's just a paper gasket like any other. Give the mating surfaces a good clean and you're ready to go. Indeed, to not forget to seal the bottom two bolts.

As I pointed out on my much earlier post above. wear of the valve guides is not uncommon on a V11. Compared to the work done up to now, this is a minor issue... I would agree, but: - Would I not see significant oil consumption over the valve stems? - Could this cause a metallic rattle?

I think I have made my decision indeed, to leave it for now and see if it develops for something worse, and then fix the collateral damage Thanks for the help all!