Tinus89
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Posts posted by Tinus89
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I have fitted an SW-Motech one to my V11 with chinpad.
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1 hour ago, po18guy said:
Are those 2001 front discs? Must admit the salvage title is a huge red flag.
They are, I have the same on my 2001 RM.
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On 2/11/2022 at 11:47 PM, Guzzimax said:
I love these front wheel chocks, easy to use, just roll the bike in, and save a lot of garage space
Yes these are perfect! But a word of warning as I notice you have placed it onto cartboard. The stability relies on the rubber grips gripping the floor. If someone were to bump into the handlebars, the chock may turn easily as the cartboard slides over the floor underneath it, causing the bike to lean and fall over.
How I know this? I was just in time to catch mine...
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On 1/29/2022 at 2:01 AM, docc said:
My notes say "#112 Viton" for that O-ring . . .
That "Viton" addition is very important in my experience. A PO of my bike installed a non-oil-compatible o-ring there, which had swollen so much it pushed the sensor far enough off the phonic wheel to not make the engine run properly >3k rpm anymore. Took me ages to find the cause...
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I have ordered the white plastic lamp holder for the cluster from https://www.cmsnl.com/, it was also NLA at most stores.
Not cheap, but I was very happy they had it available. Maybe they have this as well. It is listed on their site as PGGU02781101.
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On 11/7/2021 at 3:47 PM, stewgnu said:
It was the starter magnets. 2 of them had come loose and were jammed up against the casing.
Of course, I had checked the main earth point, forward bullet connectors and ignition switch first, naturally…. but yeah the starter was proper mullered! Got a dessert spoons worth of rust and magnetic debris when i opened it. No wonder it was getting hot.
Thanks again docc!
I had the exact same. Sometimes a slow start, sometimes fine, sometimes click-no start (and battery voltage WITH a road-side assistance car battery hooked up) dropped to 7V
when pushing the starter button.... 2 loose magnets in the can.
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19 hours ago, docc said:
These observations make me suspect that the inside of our frame spines, that are supposed to drain the liquid oil portion of our crankcase breather, can become compromised (clogged or restricted) and force more crankcase breather oil through the left side of the airbox.
I have experienced my return line banjo, which is made of a different material compared to the steel of the frame tube, to be partially filled with corrosion product & debris. I cleaned it out when I found it. I can't confirm this would cause the leakage as described as I do run pods (came without air filter box when I bought it) and my breather line runs to the ground.
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@Rox Lemans, which exhausts are those?
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4 hours ago, Chuck said:
My bet is on the phase sensor, too. It certainly can't hurt to put fresh gas in it, though, although didn't you have this problem before the trip?
This behaviour sounds exactly like mine did. Only happened when the bike was hot, eventually traced back the problem to the phase sensor. A non-oil compatible o-ring underneath it had swollen, causing the mounting plate to bend and the phase sensor move away from the phonic wheel causing these issues. A new o-ring did the trick in my case.
Not saying in your case it is the o-ring, but the phase sensor explains the behaviour very well.
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That is one way to look at it, however I personally quite like the swept back look. You could also have whoever translates the scan into a CNC program, ensure there is a fairly large radius in the back of the cutouts, e.g. 1/3 of the ID. That way the shape you take out on the front is about the same as the shape you will fill in on the back, where the cutouts are present in the original cast item.
When you also use a metal which is at least as strong as the cast item you will be fine.
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If you intent to remove the recesses on the back of the plate and move them to the front for cosmetical reasons, please also consider the fairly large radiusses used on this fairly stressed part. If you design the recess on the front side just to be milled out with an e.g. 10mm mill on a CNC lathe, the very small internal radius in the recess may still cause cracking, even though the design is strong enough for the general loads.
Short version: when reproducing a casted part by CNC process, seriously consider the radiusses.
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I have a spare, grey, non-cracked gearbox with 57000km on it, but I'm located in the Netherlands so postage may be an issue...
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Thanks for all the responses! I've given it a whack yesterday with some paint stripper and a wire brush on a drill, which went remarkably well. Everything closed up/taped off obviously. Only need to go and find a smaller bit for the corrosion in the small holes, but should be fine.
Plan is indeed to (quality) rattle can it, as the curing of the powdercoat will hurt any seals etc.
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It is early '90s.
Hmmm. So no need to set preload/backlash if I dont change anything, but also not too straight forward.
Since it is not leaking, I am leaning towards leaving it intact an painting as is...-
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Hi all,
I have a smallblock rear drive/bevel box which I want to repaint, as oxidation has caused the paint to flake. I can of course get a wire brush out on a drill and manually remove all old paint & oxidation prior to repainting it, but the best option really would be to have it sandblasted.
Question: I have never disassembled a bevel box (I have with entire engines). Is disassembly and reassembly of one of these easy, or should I spend extensive time & effort in setting gear preload/interference?
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Are you 100% confident the sidestand switch and related wiring is good? Because when I put out the sidestand whilst in gear, she dies, however when I quickly enough flip the sidestand back (or the clutch), I can actually prevent her from dieing and it sounds like a misfire or ignition problem.
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So nothing happens when you press the starter switch? Not even a faint click of the starter relay?
First things to check:- Dead man switch on?
- Does the fuel pump prime?
- Are you using the clutch lever whilst starting?
- Check the main ground on the back of the gearbox is tight.
- Push the starter button and then turn the handlebars from full left lock to right and back. Does she start now?-
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Hi all,
I just received this in my forum inbox. Any of the moderators able to block this please?
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16 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Ok. but was it a a pressure spray of fuel under 45psi or a gush of fuel from the line draining? you always get a stream of fuel when you pull the reg hose and depending on circumstances its either a constant trickle for some times or if its got air behind it a bit more of a flow situation.
Ciao
The distance covered was over 2.5m, so that would class it as a pressure spray right?
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Lovely story. Can we ask for pictures?
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On 3/21/2021 at 8:26 AM, Lucky Phil said:
(...)The only thing that will cause there to be residual pressure in the lines is the internal check valve in the pump at the discharge. I've never seen one that actually holds pressure after it ages. (...)
I have, on mine. After changing the fuel filter, wanted to remove the tank again (after priming the setup a bit) for some other work. The fountain of fuel (probably aided by an air pocket in the fuel filter) was quite considerable, and unexpected after sitting for about 60min between priming and tank removal.
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Soooo, my spacers are 60mm. Always found them long but never considered shortening them, but I have also only used the bag once in a weekend.
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8 hours ago, docc said:
(...) what my rack looks like with the shortened spacer. Pretty sure the original spacers are about 40mm.
Anyone who can confirm this? I have a set of re-made racks. The PO of these racks had them on for years so they corroded and he had them re-made by a local shop in stainless steel. However, I am fairly confident my top spacer is even longer, like 60 or 80mm. I'll measure tonight.
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Love all the responses!
We indeed do drive on the right hand side and because of that, possibly left hand corners are longer, more visible and therefore faster/more throttle causing more tire wear. Thinking of it now, I think my dual compound front tire also wore unevenly, with the pointy "egg" shape not being in the middle but a bit more on the right (so more wear left).
Wheel alignment can't be it on a V11 I would have thought, but I will check whether they are in a straight line behind eachother. The inner fender also looking crooked is visual by the way, but the uneven wear definately is not camera angle but real.
I can also admit to being somewhat of an ape on the clutch/throttle sometimes, causing a bit of sidestep on the rear end...
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oil leak, right side
in Technical Topics
Posted
The timing chest gasket is a known weakpoint in the V11. Does your V11 have a support bracket/plate between the gearbox and the engine, connected to the frame? Should be between the throttle bodies. I can see she does have two connecting arms running from the sideplates/porkchops to the lower back of the engine (photo 3), so the other bracket should also be there. These remove some of the stress on the timing chest (thus gasket), but a leak can still occur there.