Tinus89
-
Posts
342 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Tinus89
-
-
- Removal of transmission from engine
- Untorque input hub transmission
- Remove rear cover bolts and rear plate complete with all shafts comes out. -
17 hours ago, maxv11 said:
I am not entirely sure how long this new motor sat but on a standard motorcycle clutch that is bathed in oil if it sits for too long the plates can fuse together....Can this happen on these motors? The motor only has 3800 miles on it so don't think it it critical to open it up honestly...I do plan on doing a full check over on everything but just curious on this in particular. Cheers!
Actually you may want to consider checking the clutch is free. I've had a friend with a Cali III FI whom's clutch fused together in sitting just 8 months.
If your gearbox is out as well, just connect the engine and gearbox together with 4 bolts and connect & bleed the clutch lever (next to the bike) and see if she declutches. If that works, all fine. If the gearbox is out anyway, should take less then an hour and no need for special tools.-
1
-
-
Yesterday evening I disassembled and cleaned the entire carbs (carb cleaner + compressed air trough all galleries/jets). Nothing worrysome to find. Reassembled and restarted: exact same behavior.
I'm considering temporarely swapping L/R to see if the problem moves with the carb.
54 minutes ago, Chuck said:Probably the choke is hanging up. At any rate a good clean up is in order. They aren't rocket science..
Define "hanging up"? It runs fine with the choke closed...
-
Correct. Cold start without choke is fine (on the throttle to keep her running the first 3-5min), as soon as I choke she dies on the LH cylinder.
-
19 minutes ago, gstallons said:
What is this ? Dellorto carbs ? What model are they ?
V65 Florida, Dellorto PHBH 30 carbs.
-
Hello people,
As my V11 and Caponord are going towards "finished" (read: reliable), and this COVID-19 has ruled out most social things as well as holidays, I've decided to start a dream of mine: build a
cafe racerscrambler.The victim (and thus my 3rd bike) is a V65 Florida with 45.000km. She runs fine, but is in need to TLC (and stripping). Oh and yes, that guy is me
I'll probably mostly use this topic for the build progress (it will be multi-year project) and technical questions, simply because this is one of the best forums in the world!
So far I've done a little tune-up and rode her for 150km, just for a shakedown.
Question:
I've worked mostly on FI bikes. This one had a stuck choke cable (in the LH carburetor), which I worked free. However, when I apply choke when she is cold, the seems to drown in fuel on the LH cylinder. I've already flushed the LH carburetor, what else can I try? Disassemble and ultrasonic bath?
-
1
-
-
KINDOY2, what have you done to the header pipes to make them this black?
-
Actually, I have to admit something. My clutch isn't entirely V11 twin-plate
. Because when I did the mod, I could not source a V11 twin-plate flywheel.
Here is what I did:
- Aftermarket steel V10 Centauro flywheel
- Lemans starter gear (I think the latest Lemans before the V11, but unsure. It was a used part)
- All other parts V11 twin clutch (new) except for the intermediate plate (used, but V11).
To make this fit I used 8mm/m6 guide bolts (starter gear was M8, flywheel M6).The reason I hook onto this thread with my remark about the absence of rattle, is that my clutch engages late. I mean really late. I suspected the pushrod, but lately found out that is not the issue. So I suspect my modified clutch (now has 10.000km of experience) is a bit too loose when engaged (i.e. plates compressed). For this I suspect two possible causes:
- Weak springs, I may have to go to either alternating weak+strong, or 8x strong.
- Too much room in the clutch due to the combination of parts not being standard...I have the feeling my clutch will maybe last another 5-10k km. When it starts to slip, I will have to go and investigate....
-
1
-
1
-
-
21 hours ago, docc said:
Good advice on checking for gearbox mount cracking. Happened to my Sport, as well.
The center spine plate is fiddly to install, but worth mounting on the early RedFrame Sports. Later "LongFrames" like the Ballabio do not have the mounting point on the underside of the spine, but didn't you have to add that to your Rosso Mandello black ShortFrame, @Tinus89 ?
Nope, it did not have that mount. It does now
17 hours ago, docc said:Or, actually, this "frame plate"? Under the spine, mid-way, connecting to the junction of the back of the motor and front of the gearbox . . .
Yes, I added this plate Docc.
16 hours ago, gstallons said:The frame plate fits the red frame ONLY . Trust me , I have an extra to prove it !
It does. Unless you weld a mount on the frame to receive the plate, like I did.
-
1
-
-
14 hours ago, footgoose said:
I will venture to say Tinus89 is used to the rattle a Rosso Mandello single plate makes when clutch is engaged in neutral and quiet when lever is pulled, and knumnutz has a dual plate which is quiet when engaged in neutral and rattles when lever is pulled.
I like your venture... However: my Rosso has been converted to a twin-plate setup. I must admit, not a standard one, but for sure twin plate.
So is it fair to assume a twin-plate V11 clutch should not rattle when engaged (in neutral)? Because mine does rattle when engaged...
-
Glad she is OK! I did a similar thing on my black frame V11, left side as well, which cracked my gearbox directly adjacent the top rear mount. May want to check for that. Mine does not have the mid engine-gearbox-frame mount (well, it didn't then, it does now. And a new gearbox
), I'm sure it would be fine if it has it.
-
1
-
-
Leave the middle bolt loose so it can slide, turn the bars to full lock left, move the damper all the way until it bottoms out, move it back by 3-5mm, tighten middle slider nut?
@knumbnutz: how come your V11 does not have any clutch rattle?
-
2
-
-
Hey everyone, quick question on the same subject (I could not find the answer via search).
Whenever I roll my V11 forward, and then engage the first gear to drive off, I hear a clunking noise. I just noticed it as I normally drive with earplugs, but this time without.
The noise is coming from the bevel gear "sloppage". I can see the axle going into the bevel box turn about 1/8 of a turn before it actually engages, making a bit of a clunking noise. Should I worry and start taking things apart, or is this normal V11 sloppyness?
When I engage the gear after reversing (so bevel gears are engaged already), the noise is not there. Also no other strange noises coming from the bike.
-
Hi all,
Sorry for making a new topic for this, but after searching for about 10 minutes I gave up.
My header pipes are starting to look dull and have spots on them, most likely from oil which burnt. Who has cleaned their exhaust header pipes and how?
Which products used, which tools etc.
I'm in doubt whether I should clean them or learn to love the patina:)Thanks!
-
Installed a used set of hardcover bags I managed to find. The rack is the standard rack, but replicated in stainless as the original was corroding away. The bags are far from new but with a little anti-rain spray they'll do for that one motorbike trip a year I'll take on this (also have the Caponord with much more space).
-
2
-
-
On 2/18/2020 at 5:16 AM, Steve S said:
Thanks Max I've tried everywhere in Europe with no luck, I've listed the bike on Ebay UK to try and cut my losses but will keep looking or get it welded in the mean time
Did you have a look at my post a few posts up?
[moderator edit]:
-
1
-
-
36 minutes ago, MartyNZ said:
Same as Phil, I keep the gearbox oil in the middle of the sight glass when the bike is sitting upright on the shop stand.
I found that I was overfilling my gearbox when I just held the bike up and looked at the level. It takes the oil a while to settle, and I ran out of patience holding the bike up and watching the level. A couple of minor oil weeps were caused by high oil level.
Sitting on the shop stand for more than 10 minutes shows the true level. If you remove the sight glass to clean it, you will see why. It has a quite small hole for oil movement.
I usually check the level whenever I return from a ride. Because the oil is nice and warm then, it settles much faster when you hold the bike upright. I usually check about 5 min after ending the ride (time to take off the helmet/suit).
-
Use Fuel Injection rated fuel hose and you're the man. The regulator gives about 3-3.5bar, so aim a little above that.
-
1
-
-
There is another vendor who may be able to help (both of) you!
Located in Germany, but currently closed for another month (14-03 they open again).
Scroll down to "Motor-Steuer-Deckel Stirndeckel". There are two, one grey one (first) and one black one (second). Both are used parts.
Good luck.
-
1
-
-
On 2/13/2020 at 6:58 PM, LowRyter said:
Tinus, Did you pull the little Guzzi emblem off the old one or pay small fortune for another?
Yes, worked it off with a small screw driver. Worked remarkably well.
On 2/13/2020 at 7:36 PM, Lucky Phil said:Well the wall thickness on the outside of the mount looks a bit thin for an insert but they are quite deep so thats good. Generally the item needs to be designed for the insert. I'd just flatten the mounting faces off on a plate if possible then screw it down without too much force with some blue loctite. When you bolt it down look to see if it tends to distort and load up the mounts too much. When this happens I usually use some small thin homemade rubber washers under the mounts and then torque up lightly with the loctite.
Ciao
As the spacer behind the original cover is plastic as well, I and the new cover is CF, I think applying low torque (say 5-10Nm) and using Loctite should be sufficient.
I'm not going to put inserts in there, not worth the risk.
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
At that price I'd be interested to know if the mount points have aluminium inserts.
Nope, they don't. I could not find any who did, so I decided I'll try it anyway. I considered reeming the holes and making alu inserts myself, but did not dare to reem the holes.
Good tip on rubber washer+locktight. I may just do so.
5 hours ago, LowRyter said:Where'd you get the alt cover?
The finish quality is excellent, however I would like to have seen it a little bit thicker. And with Lucky Phil's alu inserts in the mounting holes.
-
On 2/10/2020 at 10:27 PM, Lucky Phil said:
It looks nice but when you look at the grief the original one cops from road debris I wonder about the logic of replacing it with something more fragile. Its pretty now for sure but it wont last. Carbon Fibre.......21st century chrome:)
I just repainted my oil cooler guard the std black because the powder coat was flaking off in big chunks on the mounts. Black is best as it blends in better.
Ciao
I know, so I of course kept the old one as well. It is a 80eur gamble, we 'll see how long it lasts. It is real CFRE, so it should be able to take some beating. I'll update the forum once it breaks:).
-
1
-
-
Replaced the old & tired alternator guard with a flashy CFRE one.
Old
New
Downside: now the oil cooler guard is ugly...
-
3
-
2
-
-
Looks awesome! Where did you buy the gauge?
California Vintage
in Newer models
Posted
My dad has one of these, and it runs lean. Lean as in pinging.
I've offered to do a service (oil/filters/valves etc).
My question is: can I also read out this ECU using Guzzidiag and my V11 cable? Is the ECU also a 15x unit like the V11?
Does anyone know the TPS settings?