Tinus89
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Posts posted by Tinus89
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I have checked charging voltage (fine, 13.9v and fairly stable). Battery voltage is 12.7v with the ignition off. I have not yet done any other measurements, suggestions to what I should check?
Also cleaned the ground connections today (engine block+voltage regulator), the alternator connections and battery connections with Caig DeOxit.Spoke to a friended electrical engineer. In his opinion, close to 30A through the spade connectors of the fuse holder will generate some heat, especially if the connection is not properly maintained (guilty) and closed in into a watertight housing. His thought on the auto-reset fuse is that they generally do not like the amount of vibration a motorcycle gives, so he advised me to change the type of fuse holder for this design:
The fuse is bolted between the two connections (he didn't have a 30A one for me, he'll order it).
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11 hours ago, docc said:
Have you had an external charger hooked to the battery?
I have, a Ctek XS 0.8, which only delivers 0.8A max...
12 hours ago, po18guy said:How do the wires themselves look? Would almost bet that it is a Chinese fuse holder.
Wires are fine, it is really the contact between the fuse holder and fuse which get hot. The fuse itself was barely molten. I'm guessing it is Chinese, bought it at an automotive store. It is one of those watertight ones, which is nice, but also prevents any heat from escaping.
Could something like this work? Dutch website, sorry...
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After reading this thread, as a precaution, I also installed a large automotive fuse holder with a 30A fuse in 2017. The holder was good for up to 40A fuses.
In what I would call a routine check, I discovered this...
I'll have a look at regulator + main ground, and I am sure she is not overcharging. Also no auxillaries connected aside from a GPS... Any ideas for a solution? Airplane style circuit breaker? Higher rated fuse+holder?-
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22 hours ago, Chuck said:
Here's the Mighty Scura at 38,000 miles..
I have a 2001 with 41.000km, looks better than Chucks...
And yes, Chuck's looks good:).
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If it has been standing for several years in a non-heated storage space, I would also consider flusing the frame tube. Corrosion may occur in the "oil separation" part of the frame tube, causing corrosion particles to return to the sump. I've seen quite some corrosion on mine...
As the advise is to take the tank off anyway... Remove the lower connection of the breather hose, flush a solvent trough it (with the oil return line disconnected as well).
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I agree with Phil. I have a 2001, but am unsure whether it is the "short" or the "long" frame. It is black (so should be long) but also lacked the brace between engine and transmission (which makes it a red frame again). Guzzi has done some strange things.
Once I dared to ride it like it should be ridden, it indeed runs like a train. If it is in good condition (can we have a picture please?) and you like Guzzi's, buy it for that price. Go through the main issues/upgrades and have loads of fun on it. I have three bikes, had some before, but this one is never ever leaving again
Edit: Oh, and welcome to the forum!
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Hi all,
In 10 days time (01-10-19), the Netherlands (and I think Western Europe) will transfer from E5 to E10 fuel, so fuel containing up to 10% of bio-ethanol.
I mostly use Shell V-power (which always claimed to be ethanol-free, but when they introduced stickers with E5 on the fuel dispensers to provide clarity, they also fitted the V-power dispenser with an E5 sticker...), but sometimes also need to use EUR95 fuel. Only for winter parking, I ensure I have quality fuel in the tank.My tank has not (yet) swollen. Bike is from 2001.
Question: would you or would you not use E10 fuel for normal use? For long-term storage (winter months), I will still ensure at least V-power or equivalent is in the tank.
Thanks a lot!
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I'm sure my V11 only has one throttle cable, not two like in a push-pull (which is actually pull-pull) setup...
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1 hour ago, JKV11 said:
Hello Tinus,
I live near Apeldoorn and i have seen that the RAM Clutch is also avalible at Stein Dinse for 450,- but i'm still wondering or i can replace my Clutch disk by https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=1084#prettyPhoto
Nope, this clutch disk is for twin-plate clutches. I don't know about the compatibility of RAM clutch plates with the MG single plate clutch with steel flywheel. There really is only one way to find out I'm afraid...
How confident are you that the clutch is slipping because of a worn friction plate? Some other potential issues to consider:
- Tampered with clutch master slave setting (original clutch handle installed?) causing build up of hydraulic pressure
- Partial misinstallation of the new clutch, causing the plate to not see enough of the "push" from the diafragm spring plate
- Broken or worn fingers on the diafragm spring plate (very normal on passenger cars! Especially Italian ones, don't ask me how I know...)To be honest, because of the price and unavailability, I would really want to open her up first, before making the decision whether to source a new friction plate, put new material on this one, or change over to dual plate clutch.
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On 8/18/2019 at 7:12 AM, Lucky Phil said:
I still dont see why you cant take a twin plate hub to a machine shop and surface grind the engine side down to the same friction plate spline width as the 6 speed.
Ciao
I know someone who has done that. Turning down on a lathe did not work, as the hub is hardened so much it just flicked parts of the cutting blade instead of lose material. As I understood from the lathe operator, that was one of the only times he was scared behind the lathe
Eventually they grounded it down to the right dimensions.
Jorrit, where in the NL do you live (out of curiosity, I live in Groningen and have replaced my single to a dual plate as well).
Have you looked for the parts at Stein-Dinse or Valpolini? HMB-Guzzi?
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If I kick out the side stand, and then push the gear lever down slowly (Clutch disengaged), she tries to stall. I can imagine a poor contact there could cause the ignition to be weak, causing it to die on higher rpms?
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If your bike does not feature the additional transmission-frame bracket, look for possible oil leaks at the top mount of the gearbox.
This is how I cracked my transmission case, by dropping her...
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I've had this as well, the press-fit axle changed into a loose fit, causing the axle/shaft to rotate and leak oil.
I've fixed it two years ago by extensively degreasing it and then glued it into place using a commercial two-component epoxy-based metal glue.
Tried it before with liquid gasket sealant, did not hold as the shaft experiences some degree of torque when shifting, so the sealang broke again.
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1 hour ago, luhbo said:
Anyone ever had a stuffed gas filter? Still filling from rusty army canisters?
I have actually seen it happen on a '99 bike (Japanese, with a steel tank) a few years ago.
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14 hours ago, guzzimeister said:
Hi, almost certainly a TPS failure. Fuel pressure would have to be very low to give the symptoms you describe, and crank phase sensor failure is on/off ie won't run at all. Weak battery is unlikely but not unknown, but bear in mind the TPS operates at 4.8v so again unlikely. You will need to check voltages at idle (around 150mv) and full throttle (around 4.8v)
I'm not gonna say it has to be Phase Sensor, but I have had the experience where the bike would idle and rev up to ~2000rpm, but above that start sneezing/backfiring and die. Revving above 2krpm and then let go throttle, she would just pick up idle again.
Culprit: a non-oil compatible o-ring underneath the phase sensor which had swollen enough to make the gap of the sensor way too large for a proper reading. So it IS possible.
1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:I'm always amused when everyone goes for the complex stuff first. How about the fuel filter? Of course if you have a fuel pressure test gauge that would be the first thing to check.Not saying its the filter but starting with the basic, simplest/cheapest option is troubleshooting 101.
I've had Ducatis do this, enough fuel for idle but not enough for anything else.
Ciao
But I agree with Phil: go for the more straight forward stuff first!
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8 hours ago, luhbo said:
The hardware/software developer here where I work (those who told me the phase sensor would be Hall based ... ) say the gap and the thus resulting signal form and strength could interfere with cpu frequency, polling frequencies and so on.
While they were wrong with what type the sensor is, they might be correct in this case. Most here think this engine/ecu combo has a sensitive point between 3 and 4K for instance, regardless what mapping is used. This would be an interesting subject for someone who has the tools to dig in further at this point. Maybe this has to do with how big this gap is.So, if an ideal gap, probably, exists, why not Chuck's .030"
Interesting. I had cutouts/misfires and the strangest shit starting around 3k rpm once, even that bad that when I held the throttle WO, she would just die.
What it was? Previous owner most likely placed a non-oil compatible and too large o-ring around the sensor, which pushed it away from the phonic wheel. When the o-ring was oil-saturated and the engine became properly hot (city traffic), going above 3k rpm caused her to die....Was clearly visibly by the sensor mounting plate to be bent outwards.
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Seems to me this is the right place for a little introduction....
Alongside my V11, I used to own a Honda Transalp 650. For in town, bit of offroad etc. With my car ageing and starting to be troublesome, I decided I wanted to do my commute by bike as well. But my Transalp is no fun on the highway. I sold the Transalp and bought another Italian*:
*Funny thing: the Honda was secretly also built in Italy, in the same year as my V11 was, 600km elsewhere...
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On 6/27/2019 at 12:47 PM, luhbo said:
Consider to rework this area, too.
That lowest/most right corner is where my gearbox cracked...
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11 hours ago, rosso corsa said:
Ouch; unless somebody can fix the broken pipe, this is a big issue (had the same issue a couple of years ago and managed to find a second hand fuel pump... these things cost a fortune).
Nope, I did not dare to fix it in any way... Cuz if it fails again, it will probably be with a hot engine between my legs...
I do still have the (perfectly fine) pump and broken off hose pillar.
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Dang! I've had the pump outlet pipe break off once when trying to move some wiring out of the way...
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Sometimes the wires from the stator break off inside the housing... If that would be the case a simple re-solder would do.
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1 hour ago, sp838 said:
On ebay from a gentleman in the Netherlands.
Thanks for calling me a gentleman
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On 5/25/2019 at 5:01 AM, sp838 said:
Got the included hub out, single plate V11 hub fits like a glove. And yes, the hammer was necessary.
May I ask where you bought this 6speed input hub?:)
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13 hours ago, docc said:
Which mufflers are those? Quite like them high up like that (higher compared to my carbon Lafranconi's).
30 amp fuse failure
in Technical Topics
Posted
What exactly did you order?