Tinus89
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Posts posted by Tinus89
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Update! Finished the "service + +++"
. Here comes the tale of sorting out a multi-owner, 66.000km CalVin.
In addition to a "normal" dealer full service (as it should be at least), I did the following:
- Replaced shifter+foot brake lever bushes
- Replaced driveshaft+bearing as the front u-joint had a flat spot and the support bearing was loose from the shaft)
- Adjusted throttle cable slack (it was about 1/5th of a handle turn! How do people drive like that?!)
- Replaced fuel filter (there was rust in the tank, removed it, filter was full of brown particles as well). Replaced the in-tank hose as well.
- Replaced fuel tank connector as it had partially failed
- Replaced inner spark plugs (old ones were partially worn but also of wrong type)I must have forgotten some...
Reset the TPS at 150mV at closed (and linkage removed) throttle body (was 028mV!). Took her for a spin. When warmed up (and 80% humidity at 26deg C outside), she still pinged at WOT in the range of 2500-5500rpm.Then I flashed Beard's map which I got through Biesel (thanks both!) and tried to get her running, but she would not idle properly. Even blew the inlet boot off once. I "Reset all auto-adjusting parameters" in Guzzidiag and raised the CO very high (80) and got her running - sort of -. I re-checked sync (a bit off), fully closed both air bleed screws, and synched again by just barely opening one air bleed. That solved the idle stumble! Lowered CO until idle started to drop off (now set at 50, still a bit high I know). Took her for a spin, same weather conditions.
Still one or two pings when going through the range at WOT between 3000 and 4000rpm, but far less and way more driveable!
I may proceed to carefully add some fuel to the map to solve the pinging there (did the same on my V11 and took full care of it) later on, but for now the bike is back at my (happy) dad.When I dropped her off I picked up my V11 again, DAMN I love that bike, especially after driving a CalVin for days (and working on it).
Thanks for all the responses and help, especially Biesel!-
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The bearing went easily on the shaft (with heat/freezer and a good whack with a hammer on the inner race).
Getting the assembly in the rear swingarm was a whole different ball game. Eventually, with some carefully used force, she went in.
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20 hours ago, KINDOY2 said:
Today I realized I have used these for over 45 years...I have some "good" Snap On digital calipers..but it seems whenever I need them the battery is dead..So far the battery has never let me down on these..:-)
Interesting... Even though I like analog ones and have learned the ropes with them, I have two 10eur cheap digital ones... So far (5yrs), I've never replaced one battery. One of the two is even in the shed where temps go sub-zero in winter...
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@Lucky Phil, the main issue was getting the total assembly back inside the tank. The hose clamps were actually not interfering with anything, it was more the combination of pump and filter which had to be rotated through the entry hole. Everything worked out with some cursing, but I had to use some minor force (not around the wires, but around the hose), so I will have a little bit of buttclamping until she fires up...
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16 hours ago, biesel said:
Hi Martijn,
changing this long u-joint and the support bearing can be a pain. And do not forget the little set screw.
Have a look at my video on YouTube.
Replacing the fuel filter is really a fucking nightmare, I hope my YT slideshow did help you.Awesome, looking forward to the bearing and shaft install... Not. I'll properly cool the shaft and heat the bearing a bit. How did you install it, any special tools or just align and push/hammer into place?
Yes, your slideshow did help. It indeed was a nightmare and only want to celebrate if she runs properly in a few day (and I did not kink a fuel hose on installation). I did have to replace the special ribbed fuel hose with a normal one, as I pulled it apart on removing the fuel filter. This made installation in the tank even more difficult.
MAN, I love working on my V11 compared to this one. So much more easy & accessible....
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I've purchased the new driveshaft at TLM at 275eur (faster delivery). Should be delivered tomorrow. I've already set the freezer to MAX. Also replacing the support bearing.
The gearbox output shaft bearing is fine by the way, it is just the seal which is gone.
Adjusted the throttle cables so they don't have 1/4 of throttle play anymore. Replaced all 4 spark plugs (inner ones were wrong type, left outer spark plug connector was unscrewed). Adjusted TPS (closed was 030mV instead of 150mV!)
Replaced fuel filter (what a fucking nightmare) and internal fuel line. Sucked the rust out of the tank. Fuel filter was fairly plugged with rust as well...
Broke the annoying fuel connector (female, ordered a new one). -
3 hours ago, pete roper said:
The oil inside the swingarm may well be from the bevelbox. The bevelbox isn't sealed at the pinion on Tonti's and when ridden hard oil may well end up flung forward and sneaks into the UJ chamber. It's harder for it o the 'Big UJ' models but it still happens. Don't ask me how or why. It just does.
If there is a lot of oil in there it may well be the output shaft seal and sadly that may be because the output shaft bearing has bust up its cage. How many Kms on this thing? A lot of them are a bit weepy but it's not worth tearing in to unless the bearing is stuffed. If the seal looks intact and you don't get a clicking noise when tou turn the back wheel with the engine off on the centrestand I'd monitor the gearbox oil level for a bit. As long as it isn't dropping like a stone I'd not worry about it too much.
I'm surprised your driveshaft UJ has a bad trunnion? The later shafts are generally very long lived.
I would estimate there was about 50-75ml of oil in the swingarm, but all of it was in the front part, front of the support bearing. I'm confident it came from the gearbox, as the area rear of the output seal was laying in a bath of oil as well. The bevel box input shaft was dry.
I'll replace the seal (new one ordered, Viton) and check for the output shaft bearing tomorrow morning.Yeah, I was a bit surprised as well. Upon further inspection, the shaft-support bearing is a total loose fit. I can wiggle the bearing on the shaft and both inner race as well as shaft bearing face have scores of "slippage". Biesel had this on his shaft too, even the same UJ bearing which went bad, have a look at his videos on YT. Links on P3 of this topic.
The swingarm bearings are fine after all, they are tapered and the play can be adjusted to zero.
The bike has done 66.000km (as far as we know, no history). There is a lot of play in the gear/rear brake levers, I'll replace those bushings but maybe she has done more than 66.000km....
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I've taken apart the rear swingarm and observed the following:
- Gearbox rear seal is leaking, some gearbox oil inside the swingarm
- Driveshaft came out of the swingarm way too easily. When I put it back, I could feel it has moveability inside the support bearing. I can wiggle the rear splines about 3mm sideways.
- Rear u-joint has a dead spot.
- Splines were properly greased it seems, however a bit hard to assess with the amount of gearbox oil...
I'm probably looking at a replacement driveshaft+support bearing (and seal), am I not?Edit: also the swingarm bearings are shot, replacement from Stein-Dinse is 72eur each. Is there any alternative part?
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9 hours ago, gstallons said:
You got me on y or n on the recall fact . Don't take the chance , if your on top of things DIY !
My thoughts as well, but IF you cal already find the parts, they go over 300eur.
6 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:Problem is you cant buy the mod kit anymore. I'm not even sure if you can buy the individual components for the shock damper and it needs a special tool to disassemble. If you can buy the "coupling hose" parts and the drive sleeves they are expensive. At least from TLM they are as I see them advertised on ebay from time to time.
Ciao
Yesterday I browsed the parts, I found all but one at Stein-Dinse, the other one on a universal parts site. Total sum of 300eur is a lot, especially if the mod may already have been completed...
So how do I find out?
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So my original transmission is in the part B recall. How do I find out whether this has been performed or not?
And if it hasn't, anything I can still claim at Guzzi?The kit B I can't find, the separate parts add up to 280eur.
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On 5/28/2020 at 6:27 PM, Grim said:
Had a little go with the seat hump off, didn't want my rucksack scraping the paint.
I like how you removed the undertail licence plate holder etc, now considering it myself as well:)
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Out of curiosity, how do I find out in Europe whether this recall was done on my 2001 V11?
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Thanks for those links! Which are the splines Luigi forget to grease, the forward (requiring swingarm removal), rear or both?
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I have known Luigi from my V11 and will check & grease the splines. Does this require the front clamp connection to be broken and then slide out towards the bevel drive?
Or does this mean swingarm removal?Another question: my dad's CalVin has twinspark. Am I correct these spark plugs are different? The manual only states BPR 6ES, but Stein-Dinse states the inner one is PMR8B.
Is this correct and if so, should the inner one be gapped at 0.7mm as well?
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Excellent advice, thanks! I'll PM you for those maps.
One question on maintenance: the rear drive shaft on this bike is the enclosed/covered type. What maintenance does it require, if any?
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Thanks a lot for the responses! Some answers from my side:
- The bike NEEDS a full service and tune anyway, it has been over a year. Fluids/filters, valves, TPS, synch, the works.
- I will also change the fuel filter so I will have a look at the lines in the tank as well.
- The 15RC ECU can be read out using Guzzidiag, so I assume I can also read and adjust the map (I have experience in this on my V11 to solve light pinging)
- The bradthebikeboy tune is already on my desk as a print out:)I'm familiar with Guzzidiag and TuneEcu.
If the tune up does not solve the pinging, can I add some fuel to help it in that area where she pings (this solved it for my V11) or does that only work on an open loop map (no Lambda)?If so, any clues to where I may find a good Open loop (no Lambda) map as a starter?
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14 minutes ago, Chuck said:
It *may* be lighting fooling the phone sensor.. but if I remember correctly they were faded a bit probably from heat. Lister PD Boulder has her now as far as I know.
They may have faded from the heat, but funny enough my Mandello Rosso has that as well. The porkchops do the same (but less), and the tank and seat cover stay nice and red.
It almost seems like the paint on alu parts does not hold as well as on the plastic parts.
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I have sent him a message a while ago, but no response yet.
In the mean time, roadside assistance brought the CaliVin home. Empty battery. I diagnosed her yesterday: molten 30A fuse (second time, I discovered it was already in a separate fuse holder, done by the PO). I'll replace the fuse holder and also give her a full service in a few weeks time.
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Not knowing your knowledge on V11's, and certainly not knowing all differences by head, I do feel the need to warn you about the (factory) single plate clutches. These are found on Rosso Mandello's and Scura's, maybe on others as well. [docc edit: + Tenni ]
I also do not know whether this applies to all factory single clutches or a certain build time.
They have a habit of desintegrating (exploding through the engine casing) due to fatique-cracking on the aluminium flywheel.
Look for one to be converted to either a twin plate clutch, or a aftermarket single plate with flywheel (e.g. RAM clutch).
Edit: or convert it yourself of course!When it comes to V11 versus the other Guzzi's, most definately a V11.
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14 hours ago, docc said:
I seem to recall someone just struggling with this and found one (or both) of the friction plates reversed. You do say "the clutch plates are in correctly" so perhaps this is not the case for you. I cannot recall who's thread that was, but I'll look for it . . .
I have been struggling with something similar, having to take off the tranny twice again. What had happened was that one or two of the springs behind the spring plate were not seated properly, not allowing the clutch to disengage. The leaver did feel a bit stronger/harder than normal, but not enough for me to realize this was it. Only after finding the springs and reassembling, I also noticed the difference in clutch feel.
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I also don't hear anything out of the ordinary (outside of the dog wanting attention)
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That same shop refurbished (polished) and rebalanced my crankshaft & conrod/piston assembly. Indeed, he is very knowledgeable. They race with Duc's themselves.
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2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
First thing to do is change out the fuel filter and measure the fuel pressure if you can before going down the re-flashing the map path.
Ciao
Intent was to do a full service first, if required (history-based) change the filter as well (it's an in-tank unit, isn't it?), but why are you suggesting to measure fuel pressure?
Once the revs are up high enough, she pulls as expected. The pinging is only on >50% throttle at rpm 3000-5000, after that it's gone as well.
It needs a full service anyway, as last was 02-2019.
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Anyone else who has some knowledge about the TPS setting and readout using GuzziDiag?
I don't live near the bike...
California Vintage
in Newer models
Posted
I was using GuzziDiag to set it, but it is just more of a pain when she does not want to run (and needs at least 60deg C of engine temp).
Thanks, I was using the wrong XDF and could not find the CO trim value.