Pressureangle

K, fixed the problematic Panopticon photo failure and deleted the posts. For your viewing pleasure. I wasn't going to inspect the rear gears, but the little voice said 'Dooo Eeeeet'. So I do it.I've looked as closely as possible through the fill hole in the past, and didn't really like the surface finish I saw on the ring gear. No idea what was in it when I got it, probably the factory lube. I've always run RedLine shockproof in this one, and surprisingly I think the surface finish is better now than it was before. For this reassembly, I'll be using Liqui-Moly because I can't get Chevron Delo ESI. L-M also has borate additives, so should be as good. Ah yes, we'll be having the transmission out as well, due to enormous end play in the output shaft. I have a helical gearbox on the bench nearly ready I meant to swap in a long time ago, I guess I know my next move.

I have never figured out why my posted pics are like quantum fluctuations.

I'd have the Ducati Scrambler, just because I had a Jupiter 450 waaay back in a previous lifetime.

We've had two different targets here. What I meant was, it's best to make things robust so that you may ride as long as possible without failure, rather than to leave something less than optimized for a convenience in maintenance later. Because I'm not always timely with 'heavy maintenance'.

I have the EME upgrade on the '85 LM1000 with big Odyssey battery. a few thousand miles later it's still in heaven. If I had your connector issue, I'd eliminate the connector altogether and properly splice the wires together. It's wiser to plan for the ride than plan for maintenance. Cutting and resplicing shouldn't be frightening. So I'll toss this in the ring, my '97 Sport charges 12.8 at idle and 13.8 max. Always been this way, doesn't have battery issues...regulator has been reinforced with grounds and hots. I shouldn't care after all this time, but is this the norm?

I found this one, been happy with it for 16k miles and 4 years. Might even be the same one MG Cycle sells. https://www.highflowfuel.com/quantum-moto-guzzi-1100-sport-inj-bj-efi-fuel-pump-1996-1999-replaces-gu29107261-gu03107270/

The picture I posted is not mine, but is identical to my '97 Sport. The rod assembly is in the mail...

Apparently (only apparently so far) they are the same part, but installed in reverse on the Sport and the V11. I won't try to guess what the Italian engineers did with the threads in any case, I've been suckered and lost every bet so far.

Are you making an inquiry, or asserting an opinion?

There are specific criteria and design to threads with intentional interference. I'm not familiar with all of them, but with a cast plastic part it's simple enough to alter half of them, or any portion. If I was an engineer (prone to over-thinking lol) I'd make the portion under the fingerknob regular to facilitate starting threads during assembly, and make those inside the snout to interference spec. <shrug> Whatever we end up with, it will be mechanically machined so we'll have to discover the properties; I suspect a standard tap through delrin will leave an interference, given plastic always springs back a little when machined. Alternatively, we can machine the snout with a little reverse taper, tap it first and when the tabs are brought parallel in the hole the threads will tighten up. Today's mission is to get my rod assembly off and shipped north to the shop.

My son has a couple high quality 3d printers he's playing with, but hasn't developed the knowledge to reproduce a part from a sample.

We regularly machine a number of different plastics, most of them custom high-density mixes. Some probably not compatible, for instance mixed with a Moly-based lubrifier. But we have straight delrin also. We'll get with the supplier rep to ask about specific properties required, and make the final choice with some advice and testing.

Well yes it is, because delrin wouldn't have broken by now.

There was a request on WG for one like mine; I don't know if yours is the same, but it's a very simple part for us to make. If I can get a sample of your style, I'll throw them in the ring if it's a part that breaks much. My own is fine, I'll use it for the pattern.

I'm going to make some. May check out a couple types of plastic, as well as aluminum.

I left the second tensioner bolt out. I figure it gives a bit of oil mist to the gears, and one less thing I could worry about having left unsecured.

Seems like mebby I saw this with mine... The hole in my memory says maybe they're timed on the other cylinder. Don't trust anything in my memory hole. In any case, just line them up and trust it's right.

Been there, done that. I don't have much to say anymore, MG forums are the least agreeable of any I inhabit. Which is odd since it's so opposite my real-life experience.

I wore 5:11 60/40 for 3 years in Iraq and Afghanistan. Though in hot weather I wore the lighter weight 100% poly, I wore the 60/40 any time the temp was below about 80*F. They're tough as nails, very comfortable (after a couple wear/wash cycles) and look nice. BUT they are *not* crashwear. Polyester gets hot when abraded, and will melt and stick to your skin in a slide. So yeah, durability while riding is good, and temperature control is good, but I don't want to crash in them. I'd rather have a set of traditional Wrangler or Levi denims. All that said, I've been looking for a couple years for and at riding pants, and still haven't bought anything. I ride in jeans or Aerostitch. If I lived in a cooler climate, I'd consider armored leather. Meh.

Never heard of them, but they've been around a while- https://www.dimsport.it/en/ Add-on tuning always gets the side-eye from me.

Not mine, just happened across it while surfing. Someone recently asked about dampers so... https://claz.org/go?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2040-parts.com%2Fbitubo-moto-guzzi-steering-damper-i383647%2F

The correct answer here is that the washer behind the bearing race has room to push the race out enough to catch the inside edge with a driver, and carefully drive it out from the inside. Use a soft punch or brass drift to move the (hopefully hardened) washer towards the outside, then move the washer aside to have just enough race to catch with a drift, which needs a good edge. Easy peasy. A proper blind puller on a slide hammer would make short work of it. Wish I'd known before I added some dimples to the outside race edge of the housing.

Yeah, still wondering what it'll take to wreck it apart. Considering the inside cover's adherence to the housing, prolly do that.

It's the dreaded 'outer rear drive needle bearing' day (s) Seems the only way to get the old one out is disassemble the drive? Then there's the bit about someone in the past using quite a bit more black RTV than necessary.

The Bitubo on my '97 Sport came to me mostly empty and weepy. I opened it, drained it, rinsed it out with fork oil and filled with 10 weight fork oil, carefully stroking it and then overfilling and capping it sloppily to be sure no air remained in it. 15,000 miles later- 38k or so total- it performs flawlessly, with no sticky or neutral spots, nor surprisingly any leaks. Unexpected but I'll take it.