Pressureangle

Yeah, I think from now on I'm just going to use MEK and Acetone after I investigate their tolerance by viton. It's not as convenient but I know it works. I'll use Gumout or CRC for places I have to spray.

Asked NAPA for a case of carb cleaner, they came back with about 8 cans of 'Mac's' carb cleaner. Who cares, right? So I'm working on the '89 Mille GT. Had the sump off, tried to clean it with Mac's. No go- simply doesn't cut oil and light, if old, mung. Bleah. Go to the carbs last night, been sitting some time so plenty of varnish. Put all the bits in a cup and make a puddle of Mac's. Doesn't touch the varnish or deposits. Bleah. Then, suddenly, right before my eyes, I watch the o-rings and inlet valve tips expand and disintegrate. Oh, happy day- carb cleaner that doesn't clean anything and destroys carburetor parts in less than 30 seconds. Inlet valve assemblies are $25 each. Just a 'beware'. Don't try to save a penny or a minute using this crap. I returned all of it, not that they cared at all.

Good eye, or I'm going senile. I guess I'll have to stock a few.

I'll go out on a limb and call this legitimate. I spent time on Omron's website, they do make these but you can only have them if you're an OEM automotive concern- probably at least a tier 1 supplier. So if I was that and could order them, I would, since they have a purchasing requirement but no apparent limitation on subsequent usage. They probably have a minimum order quantity of 500 or something. Oh and West Bloomfield is in the heart of Mopar territory. one last point, it's not 5/$30, it's *each*. bleah

My 1100 Sport-i is '97. The only mod when I got it appears to be a FBF crossover pipe. With stock ECU and stock mufflers, it suffered from a relatively mild case of the 'idle stall and 3200rpm blues'. I installed a MyECU in place of the stock controller and tuned it over 10k+ miles to the point where the 3200rpm dip was tolerable and idle stalls were something short of maddening. Very recently (<200 miles) I took out the stock timing chain and wimpy chain tensioner and installed a set of Joe Caruso's cam drive gears, because it 'sounded like' the cam chain was slapping around. And I like jewelry- I could have installed the aftermarket tensioner, which worked as well in my '85 LM1000; nobody was more surprised than I to discover that the idle issues and the 3200rpm dip are *completely gone*. The idle, which I'd probably spent 2 whole man-hours over the time I've owned it getting as good as it could be, suddenly became perfect, stable, 100-150rpm higher; After tuning the mixture and setting the speed, it now idles at 1100rpm and is so steady it's almost ridiculous. I attribute this all to the precision of the trigger wheel, and the inadequate stock chain tensioner creating a bit of confusion in the timing signal at idle and perhaps a resonance at 3200rpm. So my recommendation, if the problem persists after all the obvious and desirable tune-up procedures, is to get rid of the stock timing chain tensioner and install the aftermarket one which is enormously stronger than stock- or if you have the extra gravy, a set of Caruso timing gears. I'd like to have someone else verify that my findings here are what they appear to be.

This is actually in Marvic's gallery. Appear to be 18" but it does look effective.

I spent a *lot* of research, time, and money on my '85 LM1000. The Web 86b cam is so big I had to change lifters and mill the lifter bores- yet it is far more drivable than the stock camshaft. I milled in perhaps .5 point compression and had the heads ported, but retained the stock Dellorto carbs. It's my studied opinion that the 'brutish feel' of these old hot rods is the 'brick on a stick' camshafts they had, ancient paper designs whereas the modern bikes (and aftermarket cams) have the benefit of computer dynamic modelling of both airflow and valvetrain dynamics, so both power and drivability can be largely determined before the first spark is thrown griding the cam. My '97 1100 Sport-i isn't as smooth, even with the newly installed Caruso gearset- which was an enormous improvement.

Chanclas are as much a throwing weapon as footwear. Don't you have any Phillipino or Latino neighbors? It's a fine art, and deadly. Just ask any kid.

FWIW I'm using the Dissenter browser, and I've had less utility issues with it than with Chrome; additionally Dissenter is second to none in privacy. <shrug>

I've done all of that, none seems to make a difference.

My posts here all originated as copy/paste. I have no idea why it would be different that I did it than someone else.

Here is the link to the entire album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/k5dBSEpT7ieyBXFL7

I am, and I've used permission links for the pictures, as well as made the album they're in shareable.

Yeah, I have a real problem being forced into paying for something that used to be free, and still is elsewhere. What actually interests me is why some people can see the images and others can't.

Bring a trailer!

Dunno, but it's too much work to download and resize them for upload. Your imagination is sufficient and you'll see it at the Spine Raid.

How about now?

Where I'm from, it was my Dog and my Tools.

Today's mission is to replace all the fuel lines and filter. Even if they're clear of water, they're old enough to show checking. Check. Yesterday's project was to undo the deferred maintenance under the gas cap; the leaky gasket allowed the gas/ethanol/water to collect under the lid, eventually eating away enough paint to plug the drain and really cock things up. So I cut away all the paint that was loose, prepped the rusty bare metal with Ospho and coated everything in about 5 layers of Caswell's gas tank sealer I've had laying around for a few years waiting for the Norton project to come up. I disassembled the gas cap, hoping to replace the rubber gasket but you *know* it's not available separately, so I cleaned and prepped metal and rubber and applied Seal-All to all the surfaces except the tank contact ring. Hopefully that will prevent any future leaks and further attacks on paint and fuel quality. If not, It's $130 for a new tank door assembly- I didn't even bother to call and ask if that's available. Yeesh.

Just think of the diaphragm as a *really* simple computer that interfaces the carb and the unpracticed throttle hand.

If you get stuck hard, I can probably make one.

Today, we ride. Carefully, until we get home. Then we drain the fuel, change the filter and hoses, clear the tank top drain, and get a new cap gasket to keep the water out.

Mine were 670 UK pounds in February, shipping in. I'd expect that with materials skyrocketing, they'll be more today. E.

Ok, probably the last post here unless questions. I went for a short, 11 mile sub-50mph shakedown, all low throttle sub-4000rpms. First, I cannot overstate how much more cleanly this thing drives at low rpm and low throttle. The 'city manners' are incredibly improved. The idle is steady, stable, and never missed a single beat, even though it's 100rpm lower than I had it set previously. The 'driveline snatch' at slow speed/low throttle have *disappeared*. I have to attribute this to idle/low rpm spark timing being precise, which leads to the conclusion that the stock chain tensioner is not tight enough to control the cam/crank relationship at low rpms. Significantly, the whole reason I put these gears in was because I 'thought' I heard the cam chain slapping around, and didn't know whether the bike had a spring tensioner or manual and figured if I'm in there I may as well go all the way. Supporting that suspicion is that during today's ride I had the fairing on and everything final assembled, and the reflected engine noise from the front is *immensely* lower. There was enough noise with the chain to be a constant source of discontent; not only are the gears quiet, they are comparatively silent. I've leaned my idle mixture and yesterday's ride told me the plugs are way rich at the throttle settings I rode today, though I've yet to read the plugs with my changes it felt fine which means still plenty rich. I'll have to re-tune everything, certainly everything in the low RPM columns and the low throttle settings. We'll see. At the end of the day, Joe's gears are what should be in them from the factory...but Guzzi already knew that a long time ago, didn't they? Edit; I'll add here that I've always used the 'book value' valve lash settings; This time I've used the Guzziology values, Euro +.002" I think, .006" for intakes and .008" for exhaust. It's probably a contributor, but I would not expect that to make the huge difference I feel.