po18guy

Have you swapped injectors side-for-side? With luck, the problem follows the injector. Are you speaking of the pilot screws closed?

Well, here's the long frame box number. (GU) 101 11 40 311

Not to be left out...

True enough. Well, stuck as we are, this seemed the most expedient solution. But, one wonders, why have a bleeder on the slave at all? It's an all uphill system. Why not place the line in the bleeder's location and simply bleed at the master, where the air will migrate in any event? They must have a variation on the KISS principle: KICS - keep it complicated, stupid!

Was somewhat plagued with them. Very annoying and when they occurred, it was very difficult to match revs to gears. I thought to myself that one day the New detent spring and Lucky Phil extender would banish it forever (and they will). At the end of last year's riding season, the clutch had gone wonky - not fully releasing and the lever would not return fully until pumped several times. Therefore, I determined to purge air from the system. As posted elsewhere, I fitted a made-in-the-UK titanium bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master, which is the high point of the system. RaceTi makes some superb stuff, including Brembo-specific bolts. After the bike had been parked for some time with the bars turned right to place the clutch slave physically higher, it seems that some air indeed had crept in and rose to the top. Bled the heck out of the top of the system. A short ride demonstrated that it was still not 100% i.e. would just barely fully release, and shifts were clunky. Neutral impossible to find at a stop. Oh, drat! Therefore, I suspected a small air trap somewhere in the slave. Pulled the rear wheel to have somewhat better access (even if only visually) to the clutch slave. The slave bleeder screw had been tightened, probably at the factory, to a degree which was bad-joke tight. I suspect that someone on the assembly line had been turned down the evening before. Anyway, once open, I was able to thoroughly bleed the low end (I know - reverse order). Lever function and clutch action returned to normal after some miles - the old gal apparently needing some time to become acclimated to the maintenance. But, aside from normal clutch operation, I noted that the plague of false neutrals has gone away. For reasons too numerous to detail, my ankles do not have the flexibility they should and I had always attributed the false neutrals to that. However, the vaccination with fresh DOT4 fluid pushing the air out has restored the clutch's good mood. Certainly fine with me! The need for brake bleeding is obvious in a soft lever. But how to judge even a tiny amount of air in the clutch system? Indeed, the lever must go to the bar and the only 'feel" is when the clutch is engaging. Admittedly, this is purely anecdotal, but for those who are troubled with missed shifts/false neutrals, I can heartily suggest installing a bleeder up top and then bleeding both ends of the line.

That is the price you pay for free.

Imgzeit. $11/year. Super easy to use and easy to copy and paste images. I'm sold.

Ya got me worried now...snugged the clamps on the V11's intake boots just yesterday.

Yeah! My 1987 Kaw EX500 still has the original boots. Only 25K, but 34 years! Apparently, because they are inexpensive, they tend to last?

Thank you! It's now a Ballabio monoposto.

Thank you. The mid-pipe being welded on, it was the most I could get out of it without major mods. Next up some shorter M8 bolts. Was going to shorten them myself, but I'll just snag a few from Monster Bolt. There's riding to be done!

Since buying the bike, I have been making small changes that better suit me. Motobits pegs are in a box, as are the H&B bags and rack. Brought the bars down, added some Ken Sean bar-end mirrors and adjustable shorty levers. LED headlamp and signals - the taillight was LED when I bought it. But the Staintunes were at the stock height and width - good for passengers and bags, but a little vulnerable in slow maneuvering and backing. So, examining the lead-in pipe, it appeared to me that the cans could be slid a little further onto the X-over and then the entire unit rotated up and in at the rear. Did a test repositioning and it looked plausible. Kinda mid-mount. This pic shows the difference. For hangers, what I settled on were some M5 stainless marine closed body turnbuckles. Rated at 900 Kg/1980 Lbs, I figured they were up to the task of suspending a 4 Lb can. A little cutting, grinding, heating and bending, enlarging the mount holes from M5 in stages to M7.5 and hand filing with a round file so an M8 bolt would just slip through, leaving a bit more meat around the bolts. Then dug out the white buffing compound and shined them up. Snugged them up and the install leaves the bike looking a little cleaner, and lighter (almost ANYTHING will do that!). A less homely rear hugger is next. Overall, I'm pleased and I can even hear the music slightly better now.

All I know is that I wanted a Royal Oilyfield, aka Oily Enfield 750 Interceptor (chrome tank) in 1970. Having never purchased one, I stand acquitted of any contribution to the 1973 oil crisis.

Even if belated. Daughter presented me with the "100th Anniversary Edition" of Ian Falloon's The Complete Book of Moto Guzzi. For such a small company, they have made a amazing variety of models and designs, albeit with some badge-engineering tossed in. Paging through, I was familiar with the smaller US models, as the tiddlers were huge in a 1960s teenager's life. I was elated to see a nice shot of a 2004 Ballabio on pages 204-205 announcing the Aprilia era. I was deflated when it was described as the "base V11 Sport."

Sehr gut. Sehr klar. What I did was attach two VOM terminals to the non-terminated leads on the breakout harness. Just one less fiddly thing for my old fumble-fingers to do.

Consider powder coating. Will live for a very long time if properly prepared, and lots of blokes who can do a right decent job of it. I see one from an '04 Cafe Sport on eBay for $139 US - but it's stateside. Still, I might buy it, as it is the closest I'll ever come to having a Cafe Sport...

About like the XJ650/750/900 Yamahas with the straight cut primary gears.

Well done! When you removed that huge OEM rear hugger, did you replace it with anything else? I am at that point with my '04 Ballabio right now, seeking to protect the shock.

Do you want OEM, re-pop or??? Here's a 2000> Ducati Monster flyscreen in carbon w/shield for a C-note. https://www.ebay.com/itm/362797351233?epid=1023026675&hash=item5478684141:g:ZlgAAOSwuMZZBfoK

Call CARB and see if there is an exemption, waiver or acknowledgement of the other state's DOT approval. Or a limited production vehicle. Heck email Jay Leno and see how he does it. There is a way - it is just finding it. If you were in Oregon, you could register anything. At least in the 90s, Oregon and Alabama had the most liberal of titling and registration requirements.

Having just R&Red my rear wheel, I noted that the axle bearing on the drive side was marked as made in Poland. From past misadventures, I do know that the basic number of the bearing only specs out the physical size. As gstallons correctly notes, it's all the BRLXQ on the end that tells you how soon you will have to replace it.

At least there are free returns if you have Amazon Prime! In Mandello, they look around and see only brand new bikes. Not one of them needs replacement parts, so why should anyone else?

Of all the bikes I have sat on at the motorcycle shows, two have felt jusssst right, but for vastly different reasons. The Buell XB-12R and the Victory V92SC, the only "cruiser" I can say that about. It didn't last long enough to get the upgrades and Neither Buell nor Victory lasted very long at all.

"And now at-home servicing by Amazon!!!"