Grim

In must say, the paint seems much better quality on this compared to my short tank, definitely laid on thicker. New ones go for about £600 usually, and that's without the pump.

Polished and polished (and polished) my new internal pump tank.... This is actually the original colour my bike had before all the paint fell off! What a steal for £180 with the pump!! Most of the little mark polished out with consecutive paint restorer/polish application. I am rather sweaty now though 🤣

Since I've now bought the "new" tank... Are the qr hose connectors a universal part? Is the hose diameter the same as the old style tank? I think probably not, as I seem to remember having to buy some abnormally large diameter hose to go from the petcock to the filter, but after that it was smaller to the pump. Thank you kindly!

Yes, I have fuel line and FI clamps... I didn't know if the red and white things would accept that kind of treatment!! I assume the quick release bit doesn't exert much pressure and I didn't want to crack some plastic that is: a) Italian in nature b) old.

Forgot to ask, is this the "quick" release fuel line? Or do I just push hoses onto the red and white things?

Ahh, thanks Docc,. I see now from the photo that there is another lead with no plug, this must be the pump wiring.

Hi, anybody done this? Is the connector for the level sensor on the old tank the same as for "everything" on the new tank or do i need to buy a specific connector? I see the return is now next to the fuel tap on the same side, so the right hand injector return is supposed to go through the hole where the filter used to be? I did search, badly, couldnt find the right words to get the results I wanted -- story of my life!

Thanks, I think the headers are just standard Guzzi items?! One thing I have noticed is there is a new kind of harmonic resonance using these valve covers, in the higher rev range there's a new kind of nice engine thrum noise (hard to explain). Maybe just more volume to resonate?

Check if the Speedo cable is actually turning at the Speedo end first! Disconnect it from the back of the Speedo. If you spin and push it into the cable housing you should feel it "lock" ok into the gearbox end. If it's just flapping about it could be broken. If you've got a stand just start the bike and put it in gear. See if the cable spins at the Speedo end. If it's the black ITI one, you can service them.... Just about. With replacement worm gears.

Put on some Breva valve covers, I think it tidies up the spark plugs and leads. I stripped them and used a buffing wheel to brush the aluminium. That paint was surprisingly stubborn!

I used a rotary tool to enlarge the lower kickstand mounting hole, this took a few goes to get to a point where the m6 bolt didn't squeak going in (I hate that noise). I also got a spare sump plate from Steve (on here somewhere!), I realised mine was warped, as holding the spare on a pane of glass there was no wobble, whereas mine could be rocked slightly from corner to corner. Those 2 things together have stopped my leak, so I am happy. Now to go out for a ride!

I had a thought, whilst I was scraping gasket of my middle sump plate, the big kickstand bolt (which is huge) is now a Roper plate further away from the smaller allen head bolt that centres the kickstand. I had a job getting it back in, and the bolt must now be at a slight angle, which would technically be forcing that corner up towards the upper bolt. That could be a culprit for opening the gap up where the lower sump meets it, making the gap the gasket has to fill slightly bigger there? What did other people do?

Good spot, but it seeped a bit when I took the bolt out. Excuse the bits of gasket, here is the offending area

... now I don't know... I took the bolt out and cleaned it, and found a really embedded second washer... Is that normal, the other bolt faces are flush as far as I can see, this one may have been way over tightened at some point, pushing the washer into the metal? I've clearly disturbed something by taking the sump plate off, as it wasn't leaking before, but it was hard to remove the plate as it was insta-gasket-ed on pretty hard. I can't really see a crack here now it's all cleaned. Edit: I've got the sump plate off again, I don't think there can be a crack, the inside is smooth and there's alot of metal there. The sump plate could be warped a bit? Maybe I should tighten that one first, or use a thicker gasket?

Do you know what, I think there is a hairline crack where the bolt face is at a right angle to the sump plate.. I cleaned everything, smeared hylomar on the sump plate, new gasket, tightened in a star pattern from the inside to the outside, let it all settle. Filled with oil and..... Leak in exactly the same place. Maybe I need a new sump plate, or could I use some liquid metal epoxy stuff? Oil can't run uphill, right? I covered it in talc and the watched it seep, it seems to start higher than the bolt itself. Not easy to get a clear shot

It's an idea that Yamaha went with on the xs650.. the various bolts holding the case together have copper washers on them, they are a great source of misery... But replacing the copper washers holds the oil in for a while.

I got mine from @Pressureangle thanks everyone,

Yeah, the plate is all oil tight.. It was just the one bolt on the bottom sump plate dripping, not even around the gasket, just thought the bolt hole and around the bolt.

Well I took the sump cover off and... I really can't see the problem. I used a green Athena gasket, it had gone quite hard and glossy in only a few weeks, but that might be normal! No rips around the bolt hole, I guess it just wasn't sealing at that point. It's annoying cos there's quite a lot of metal there, it's not like it's super thin or anything. I used red gasket sealer on both sides, very sparingly, more to stick the gasket in place than anything else. The red one is semi permanent and never sets hard. I had tightened in a star pattern, I probably started at a corner, then the opposite and so on. I'll stick a new gasket on and switch the bolts around.

Not quite my thing, but I am intrigued by what they may have done with the throttle bodies, it looks like its been swapped out for a downdraught carb. Ebay ad

Cheers, I gave everything a good scrape/clean when I did the gasket, I was actually feeling quite smug about how shiny the surfaces all looked.... pride before a fall. I could try a shorter bolt, just in case, it's a good shout. Strangely, that particular bolt had 2 washers on it when I came to check it. I switched to just 1, it didn't help. I was trying to find a copper crush washer that might hold the oil back but I dodn't have one the right size. There's probably nothing for it but to drop the bloody oil out of it and try again!

Well, it really was going too well lately. After my successfull Roper plate installation I have noticed a puddle of oil on the ground wherever I go. After cleaning and observing, it is running out around the front left lower sump plate allen head bolt. The actual gasket area is dry, I can see it coming down around the bolt. I have tried coating the bolt in gasket sealer and tightening it up, I have tried a bit of silicone sealent, but still the drip persists. Do you think the inner edge of the gasket around the bolt hole got torn? I am going to have to drain the oil and get a new gasket, bugger.

My rubber bulb holders are knackered, so with no bulb in the contacts are free to wobble about and.... contact! Those little wedge bulbs are horrible, and those soft rubber holders are weird.

Yeah, dipped in the UK is the standard mode of the H4 headlight bulb, because it is dipped down and can't dazzle, the other mode is hi/full beam. We say sidelights/driving lights/daylight running lights for any bulb that is white but not part of the headlight bulb, alot of cars and bikes have them on constantly now, not even as a user selected mode.