Weegie

Rolls Royce Piston Aero Engines - a designer remembers by AA Rubbra, liking your taste in reading Phil..........a lot. A great read, as are many in that series if you love engines

Closing this out with the requested info as the Ducati coils arrived today, all four of the coils tested are Marelli BAE 850 AK OEM (coils that are in the bike) Primary 0.60, 0.63 Ohm Secondary 3.172, 3.188 k Ohm Ducati Coils Primary 0.60, 0.59 Ohms Secondary 3.195, 3.168 k Ohm

@gstallons I'm retired now, used to work with Gas Turbines, first in maintenance then latterly doing performance and tuning. Predominently industrial units but some aero derivatives and some steam turbines as well. I was a mechanical engineer but always had an interest in electrical and instrumentation, which was handy for setting up to measure performance runs. I was nothing special and certainly don't posess much talent, to this day I shudder when I think of some of the stupid s**t I did over the years. As far as the job travelled all over doing it, it was a mixture of hands on and engineering evaluation, really enjoyed it and some fantastic times. Guys on here like @Lucky Phil, @Kiwi_Roy , the inimitable @pete roper and no doubt many more, are way more talented in there respective fields than I could ever be. The wiring on the bike was my first ever attempt at a rewire, it's Ok but not in the same league as others, especially some of the guys who worked on aircraft. Second attempt on a mate's V7 racer, that he put back to road use, was a little better. Heartly agree with @knumbnutz, using an M-Unit makes the job a lot easier, if costly. Wiring isn't hard, especially on bike's of that vintage. Break down the circuits, make a diagram of how you're going to do it. Use the diagram to evaluate current/load and size the wire to suit. Once you've did all that you get hands on and route the cables, bundling them into groups. Lastly make the terminations. For detail, the box between the M-Unit and the fuse box housed a resistor (now relocated and replaced with a metal clad unit) in place of the generator warning light. The big silver box houses the electronics for the Sasche electronic igntion and a terminal strip where I had to common up connections. I'd have did it a bit different now but it all works.............so far. Here's short video of an early start after the refurb if anybody's remotely interested, its changed a little since then, but not so much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G5zCu5UkEA&feature=youtu.be John

Pete when he's referring to Differential he might mean Bevel box?

Some cracking stuff here, glorious I posted these up on the Pete's "Look what I found lying about looking sorry for itself" thread, but thought I'd put them up here too. It's not exactly a Tonti but sort of resembles one in spirit and is contemporary. First pic as it was after the refurb the solid discs warped and the pods were too long Second pic before I threw it and me into a wall, which rearranged the fairing somewhat Third is how it currently looks (never bothered replacing the fairing decals, which I should) I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap but I orignally got the pipes Cermakromed, which looked shit, then I had a rethink when I added the cast wheels, so the system went to black. Problem was because of the Cermakrome, the black never keyed properly and started to flake on the headers. By this point I was sick of the whole thing and just thought "sod it" I'll wrap them and its been that way ever since.

I apologise in advance for pointing this out and I don't want to be picky, BUT.........................a screwdriver can do a lot of damage if you're not careful, I see where you're coming from and agree. However I'd use either a small wooden skewer or a chopstick, something of that ilk thats less likely to cause mayhem if it gets jammed in the cylinder. Realise that if you know what your doing and you've done it a few times it's straightforward, but if you haven't it's better to err on the safe side. God knows I've done some real stupid shit in my time.

Checked both cams yesterday, this is for a non US RS, the US RS and Centauro have different cams, see Lucky Phil's build thread page 7. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20664-v11-daytona-project/page/7/ Had to do a bit of mental arithmetic and thinking (not my strongest suit). The left side was a breeze but as I just kept the degree wheel zeroed on the LHS TDC, had to turn the crank 270 degrees (clockwise facing the front) direction of engine rotation, then set up the gauge onto the lifter and zero it for the RHS. After that I turned through 90+(90-63.5)=116.5 degrees to arrive at 63.5 degrees before BDC on the RHS. A lot of degree wheels including this one have their scales laid out as before and after TDC/BDC. So instead of looking for 63.5 after the 90 on the wheel I needed to obtain 26.5 after the 90 as the wheel is numbered from BDC counting towards the 90 degrees It's hardly rocket science, but it's easy to get confused especially if the scales aren't numbered 0-360, but 0-90 (after TDC), 90-0 (before BDC), 0-90 (after BDC), 90-0 (before TDC) as you rotate the wheel. I turned the nut on the service shaft to rotate the crank and it turns in the opposite direction. Some notes on my experience doing this. As long as you have a degree wheel, a mag base and a dial gauge it's not difficult. I used an adapter to screw the dial gauge into the spark plug hole, alternatively the dial gauge could be used without spark plug adapters if you have extension shafts for the gauge and then set it up on a base above the plug hole, or simply a positve stop tool. I bought a solid wheel which could also be moved using wing nuts. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200MM-ADJUSTABLE-3MM-ALUMINIUM-CNC-ENGRAVED-ENGINE-TIMING-DISC/233567512922?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The thicker wheel makes it a lot easier IMHO, to mount and obtain accurate readings and being able to rotate it really helped without having to mess with the mounting nut. I don't like undoing the mounting nut or bending the pointer as I can never get it accurate. I drilled the center of the wheel out to 16mm to mount onto the crank. When the belts are tensioned and the valves are being operated, the engine gets pretty hard to turn against the springs. It's a lot easier if the rockers are removed first so as you don't have to turn against the springs, besides you need to remove the rockers to check the cam follower lift. It also negates the danger of the piston flying up under valve spring pressure and whacking the positive stop if you're using that method to find TDC I found using the dial gauge easier than using a positive stop, but either way is fine. Using the gauge find TDC, then rotate the engine clockwise and anticlockwise 3mm either way and check the readings. When rotating anticlockwise go past the 3mm then bring the crank back to 3mm clockwise. That equated to 20 degrees crank rotation in each direction, when I did it the figures were spot on. If not TDC needs to be adjusted on the wheel. Lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do this. If you use a positive stop then you just bring the piston up GENTLY until it contacts the stop in either direction then do the arithmetic to find TDC again YouTube has lots of videos After that the base is set so the dial gauge reads the cam follower. Set the engine at TDC LHS and zero the gauge on the LHS exhaust follower. Rotate the engine to 63.5 before BDC then check the dial gauge to ascertain the lift. I did this with the verniers (gears) in place, as I didn't want to mess with them unless I really had to. As both were spot on I didn't need to. To check the other side I then just did the arithmetic I've already mentioned and rotated the crank to 270 degrees, zeroed the dial gauge on the RHS lifter then rotated a further 116.5 degrees and checked. I'm no mechanic but you really don't need to be, just go slow and think about each step.

Chips now winging there way to Jockland Thanks all very much appreciated

Will is offering me the chips for $114USD/chip Phil He told me he's able to supply a chip for any 16M ECU and all he needs to know is which cam is installed A or C Check your PMs

Thanks Phil & Chuck Chuck got me details to contact Will & I did that, he's still selling the chips. I can get a new chip from him cheaper than the secondhand gumtree add, although it is very much appreciated Phil Going to order up a couple, one for the Australia and another for a (hopefully) up and coming deal to acquire another HiCam bike, as the HiCams keep me so entertained

Tried to download the fie @Admin Jaap I'm pretty new here so it's probably me, but it stated file unavailable Either way thank you for going to the trouble, wish I'd had them when I put new gauges onto the 1100, the clocks would have been awesome with those logos

It's a Formotion that I got ages ago Chuck https://www.formotionproducts.com/shop/reference-series-rsl-model-02

I'll contact him, I read somewhere but can't remember the source saying something about the chip being different, perhaps just a label or perhaps something else I'll see if he comes back, remember that the non US, RS bikes had a different cam, but don't know if that would have a big impact on the mapping or not

That's a Sfida 1000 4V, HiCam engine (as you well know) not sure but is that a flyscreen on the front I can't make it out? Anyway the fairing has been removed, the wheels painted/powder coated red and different cans. I'm with you on the cans, either cylindrical or even better Magni's V11 exhausts would have been so much nicer. Rare beasts!! The battery has been relocated under the tank. I think I asked JJ about it when a picture was posted on WG and he knew the owner. I couldn't understand how on earth he kept the standard airbox and relocated the battery, it's a very neat install using a LiFe battery. Did something similar with my Sfida 1100, same frame & bodywork, but Sporti engined. Of course I was nowhere as talented as that guy, I used the pods that were on mine when I got it, but stuck a much bigger LiFe under the tank as well.

Oh Gawd this is turning into a Magni thread Hi Tim How are you? The clutch lever, brake master, discs calipers and discs are all ISR items. Small Swedish company the owner Acki is simply brilliant to deal with. Its not cheap kit and no self respecting Guzzi owner would ever consider buying his offerings. http://www.isrbrakes.se/ Specifically on the calipers they are 6 pots with Brembo centers so they just bolted straight onto the exisitng mounts until I went to the larger discs http://www.isrbrakes.se/products/calipers/22-032.html I originally had Magni discs on it but they weren't floaters and they warped in a couple of years, despite little use. Looked at a few options including Speiglers, but got Acki to make custom mounts. I had reservations but was very pleased with the result and they were marginally cheaper than the Speiglers. When doing this the cost of going up to 320 (I think) discs were marginal in comparison to the price of the discs so I did that too, then got my local machine shop to make the mounts for the calipers to move them back. The M-Unit, used as part of the rewire, has the option for all pushbutton swtichgear so I added the pushbutton clamps for the lever mounts. I know a lot of people hate the pushbutton gear but it works well enough for me

@Admin Jaap Dunno if this helps your understanding of what's on the bike, just for info right now, I'm hoping my painter pulls through with the goods for Pete This pic was taken before I decided to throw the thing (& me) into a brick wall which "redesigned" the fairing somewhat & I never bothered putting the logo back onto the fairing Fairing is the same logo without the motorcycle, tanks as posted, sidepanel enlarged M with motorcycle, the rear I've no clue

Guess if you can and you need to do a rewire it's nice way to combine relay functions and circuit protection all into one small black box, but at a price If price/value is the only thing that drives you then it's absolutely nuts I've completed a few diagrams for people over on WG who did this to later Le Mans bikes not the Is and IIs worth a bit, but the later square heads that don't go for silly prices. I guess their owners just loved them and wanted to keep them. One guy went the whole hog with MotoGadget M-Switch (keyless igniton), switchgear, combined speedo and tacho, probably cost more than the bike's worth to purchase that lot. It looked fantastic when he finished it and personally I'm all for it, but it's horses for courses. I spent more when refurbing the Sfida than a brand new 600 sports bike probably and don't regret it for a second. When I refurbished that bike (LM 1000 running gear) Wiring looms weren't readily available and the loom was a mess, so I purchased a very early M-Unit and rewired it using Thinwall cable. The bike only ever gave me a problem when it started to run intermittanly on one cylinder due to a loose spade at a coil and I can hardly blame the M-Unit for that. The fuse box is there to group the earths and add a belt and braces to the M-Unit as I'd no clue at the time how reliable it would be, so I put in some additional circuits that I could use to bypass the M-Unit and still run the bike to get me home, never had to use it though. Never tried to wire a bike with an ECU but no reason not to, just seperate out the Acessories from the ECU circuits and it would work. Not so keen on that speedo though but heh ho, we're all different

Pete Check your PMs

See what I can do and let you know Pete, re Gav the painter I'll drop Giovanni Magni a line too, may as well, nothing to lose Magni is very hit & miss in replying at the best of times, but I've bought some stuff off him over the years (for me & others) so it's worth a try Watch this space John

I reckon you'll be able to get the decals direct from Magni, Pete Last I contacted Magni, a couple of weeks back he was closed due to the BatFlu but I want to contact him anyway, so no hassle to add the request, try again and see what comes up. No guarantees but it's worth a shot I can also drop a line to the guy who resprayed mine, he replicated the decals and then airbrushed them into the paintwork, then sealed them with clear coat If you know a good airbrush guy he could spray them onto the tank then seal them in. I'll drop a line to Gav the painter who did mine and ask if he could forward the files if he still has them Be glad to help, if I can John

Here's how mine looks now Pete I know, I know, took a work of art and butchered it Not sure, possibly the Classico & the Arturo were before it. Anyway as already said "Eye of the Beholder", personally I think they are things of beauty, compare them with Guzzi's offering of the time, the LM 1000 from which it's derived

Yeah it's a Daytona RS lump 16M ECU, docc

I've heard these chips mentioned a lot but know absolutely nothing about them The engine I've got is a Non Swiss/US/Singapore HiCam so I was wondering which models is the Creedon chip applicable to, are they still available and would I benefit from getting one for this engine? John

That's a bummer Pete Don't make yourself a stranger be great to meet up again, how's about next year if God spares us? Hopefully they'll be 5 Guzzis in the shed, perhaps some of them running A wee run out weather permitting?? Anyway Charlotte and me would love to see the pair of you again, both Jude and your good self would be more than welcome (beers on me) John

Tried them in the past, but not on Guzzis, but they never really worked for me. I use a Mityvac that I've had forever and like, the Power Bleeder kit looks good too. Like Phil I try to do it every other year (doesn't always happen though) Never found it that difficult to do, some are easier than others, especially if you empty the circuit (rear brake and the hydro clutch on the Ducati can be a bit of a pain). If you're just pulling fluid through until its clean it's not hard at all. I try to exercise the circuit by using the lever to get all the pistons moving and get rid of as much of the old fluid out as possible. If still not satisfied I'll drain it down then bleed through fresh fluid for a few fills then nip up the bleed screws. You'll know by feel when there's no air in the circuit anyway.