Weegie

@docc just a question for my own curiosity. Regarding oil level, on the V11 is it better to just fill to the dipstick mark? Or as I've done on my Sporti and HiCam, fill to the base of the plate, which is a good deal higher than the high mark on the dipstick? John

That's a beauty but Pete and Lucky Phil have a point, if you start to rack up the miles, you may find yourself with an ornament. Parts are getting scarcer. I had a "cooking" Daytona and now have a C kit HiCam bike. The cooking bike was a much better behaved and happier thing and the difference is about 6hp, which I'd be pushed to notice. The build quality varied, mine overheats (BADLY) at even the site of a house, let alone a city. They are more like race bikes in their temprement. By that I mean they run fine when in free air with plenty of revs, but don't expect the well mannered behaviour of a 2v/v engine, nor the longevity. Like all HiCams they also have well known weak points to boot. I'm not trying to put you off, on a run out they are glorious and enormous fun, but just saying they have real downsides too. Just be prepared, for some grief as well as some fun That bike looks absolutely MINT, I'm having a green cheese sandwich as I'm typing

Had very similar style on LM 1000, pretty good if you like chrome, quite large I've now got a CRG Arrow on each of the bikes in black. They are quite small but the image is wide enough for me to see behind me and to the right (we drive on the left) Easy to flip up out the way if filtering Only one mirror installed on each bike on the RHS, works great for me, but it's a taste thing as well as functional piece of kit

RGIT (Robert Gordon Institute of Technology, just for those wondering what language we're speaking). Aberdeen or "Eberdeen" as the locals say...........and you think us Weegies are hard to understand The Doric is a different language. Here's an Aberdeen joke that few will get. Latest designer drug doing the rounds up in Aberdeen "Kin Vit a Mean" Perhaps not, apologies!! Caithness is beautiful in a stark way, just about everywhere up north is. I'm more a fan of the West Coast but the contrast of the rugged West Coast to the flat boggy beauty of the Flow country is amazing and all pact into a pretty small area. Them Umerikans have states bigger than the whole of my wee country and then some John

@p6x I don't know but the other guy who has reputation for producing some great maps is Beetle over on the WG forum. I think he works with @pete roper so Pete might know if he has made a map for the V11. I know he's famous for Griso maps but that's all I know. Besides Pete is the probably one of the better guys to have some idea about who might help you in a search for a custom map. Pity Will doesn't do them for the V11 I thought he might as he does have maps for the Sporti, which is the V11 older brother in a lot of ways. Caithness???? Are you going up there, any further and you'll get your feet wet, that's "Flow Country" On tour of Scotland or what? I'm in Glasgow, a place no tourist sets foot in (probably with good reason) When are you coming to Jockland? Oh I really like my Malts unfortunately I have an allergy to Barley which can result in very bad next day if I indulge (although from time to time it doesn't stop me)

Replied to your PM @rbrumana

Anybody remember this talking of side exhausts

$18k? If it walk's like a duck and quacks like a duck it's probably..................................... Beautiful as they are you've 2 options with them as I see it You keep it in an air condtioned man cave and watch it slowly decay. OR You take it to the track and, paraphrasing Dr Roper, you do a few laps then throw most of it away

That's quite a "man cave" you have there

So it wasn't just me, I saw that and thought this at least from the side. These were/are great bikes (I've got the engine and running gear of one in the Sfida 1000), but the styling.......................Honestly?

If you go to an L twin format why keep the shaft? Of course it's doable but a transverse crank is much better suited to a chain drive layout. I couldn't really care if they do or not as I'm not in the market for a new bike. I may yet purchase a V11, a Centauro or a Griso, but nothing I've seen recently does much for me, but I'm still in the last centruy and want to stay there

@ScuRoo I bow to your greater experience as I've never thrown a leg over a Griso let alone had a test ride. Of the 2 Guzzis I have experience with, a Sporti and a HiCam, I prefer the HiCam and find it more fun. God knows it has lots of issues, but on the road it's really engaging it feels like it wants to rev and rev and just go. The Sporti is a huge amount of fun too, less revy, a little more torquey. Both bikes have very similar DNA. The Sporti has a lot less issues and is by far the easier to live with of the two IMHO not that I'm fit to judge as my skills are shit and granny's are usually behind me flashing to get by, the HiCam edges it, but both these bikes, although much slower and less capable than my Ducati 1098, are much more fun to ride. I'd be delighted to throw a leg over either a G&B or a Guareschi let alone get a test ride. Both houses deserve praise, long may both flourish as Piaggo don't seem to be interested, I can understand that these machines are very niche. Apologies for the Off Topic comments

I far prefer the Guareschi Corse, to my eye it's more innovative, the frame appears to have a Ducati influence and is more original in its appraoch Gorgeous as the Monza is Ghezzi and Brian have been producing this style for a long time, right back to MGS-01 which one of them was invovled with. At its heart its a Sporti with a VERY expensive list of farkles. I'm sure a standard sport wouldn't have a chance against it, but IMHO it's really not that ground breaking Don't get me wrong sure I like and would love to have one, but given what it's going to cost I'd purchase the Guareschi.

Just to add to I think @Lucky Phil 's suggestion is also imginative and very cunning. If it won't stop, get a crush washer onto it and that would do the job I reckon, that's real thinking outside the box. I would have thought a copper washer would work too.

It's a good point I hadn't thought of, or if any of the screws are bottoming in the holes rather than compressing the gasket. That whole area will be submerged I reckon so a good seal is essential...................Long shot I know, but other than the gasket damage you mention or a piece of old gasket on the mating faces, I can't think what would cause that type of leak

Another double gasket casuality here on the Sporti They really are difficult to spot and can be even harder to remove. Dunno about the V11 but the Sporti and HiCam gaskets have different numbers, yet I find that the gaskets for both models will install on both bikes. I don't think that they can be that critical given I've seen none, one & two installed and also used Sporti gaskets (by mistake) on the HiCam and vice versa My personal hate is if I need to remove the retaining studs, almost everytime one of 4 snaps, then it's head off time.

Dunno if this will be any use, but I stumbled across a thread on WG about a similar issue with a Cali Pretty certain it's the same system and in there is a schematic from Roy with suggestions on how to test said Reg/Rec (but you'd need a scope). Useful thing to "squirrel" away, even if it's just to take to an Auto Electrician if you were going to ask him to take a look at the Reg/Rec https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=111896.0 Ouch 2 years out a battery, guess that's the price you pay living somewhere you get good weather and can ride a bit. I'll get 8 years at least out a battery like an Odessey, but with the weather here in Jockland most of the time the bikes are simply sheltering from the rain. Been a long time since I rode owned a Triumph, but their charging systems were even worse. Seem to recall that massive Zener with all the cooling fins sticking out the triple tree. More than one ocassion I was left trying to make it somewhere in the dark on the side/parking light when both filaments blew in the H4? thanks to Uncle Joe. I was young in those days and had other things on my mind. A dodgy headlight wasn't going to get in the way of a night with the g/f (how times change). Not knocking older Triumph's though, they were/are great bikes, Bonnies and Tigers especially, simple and super fun. John

Ahh damm on the fuse thought I might have found a really easy fix, but it was not to be!!! This is just a shot in the dark, but as I mentioned earlier sometimes when a rectifier goes bad (although I don't what's inside that particular one) it can cause a parasitic drain through a bad diode, to ground. You might find that if it is the rectifier that's at fault then your parasitic drain on the battery disappears with it

Damm I forgot about Fuse 3, when you mentioned fuses @docc would that not stop the bike charging, it looks like it could to me? I keep forgetting about it as none of my bikes have anything like that That's so easy and well worth checking, as well as all the other stuff

From these values it does not appear to be the alternator Your battery voltage sounds good from your previous posts, so it's starting to point at the Reg/Rec. I suppose the next thing to do is to ensure all the connections to the Reg/Rec are secure and clean and the unit is adequately grounded ( @docc beat me to it) I don't know how to test a single phase, series Reg/Rec and I think that's what this unit is. We could really do with @Kiwi_Roy here, I'm going to drop him a PM and hope he responds Sorry I can't help more

Agree @docc, I usually learn something from them too I don't know what to expect from measuring the AC voltage with the regulator in circuit. I think the regulator will effect the volts measured, but I'm not an auto electrician, simply an enthusiastic amateur. If you could get your buddy to test the Alternator open circuit, i.e. disconnect the 2 yellow wires and then measure AC volts across the wires you'll know if the Alternator is good or not. That way the Alternator is isolated from the rest of the electrical system. Perhaps greater minds than mine will chime in @Kiwi_Roy is probably your best bet.

Last thing from me If that was AC Volts and not DC Volts then it's definately defective, ideally the test is carried out using a good quality meter. In the thread docc pointed to you can see warnings about cheap meters having problems with AC ranges. If the meter was set on DC Volts I'd expect a small reading as there usually is a small DC component. EDIT Thinking about this some more I realized you still had the alternator connected to the Reg/Reg when you took the 3.5-4.5V measurement, if I understood you earlier. The Voltage test needs to be conducted with the Alternator "Open Circuit" (in other words disconnected from the Reg/Rec), so no idea what voltage to expect measuring that way. This is from the Centauro manual but I'm pretty sure the V11 runs the same alternator Alternator With the engine switched off, disconnect the two yellow generator cables from the rest of the system and then carry out the following tests with a ohmmeter: Check the winding isolation towards earth Connect one connecting point of the ohmmeter to one of the two yellow cables and the other connecting point to earth (laminar pack). The instrument should indicate a value above 10 M Check the winding continuity Connect the two connecting points of the ohmmeter to the two yellow cables. The instrument should indicate a value of 0.2÷0.3 . Good Luck with it, it does sound like it's defective and you're well on the way to getting it repaired

No clue what a good AC current reading would be, it does sound low though. Anyway @docc to the rescue If it was me I'd visually inspect it and check the AC volts as these are pretty easy to do before pulling it apart. Lot's of luck and I do hope it's not Donald Ducked.

Certainly doesn't sound very promising, I'm curious about the 3.5-4.5 readings what was that Amps? Best way to check the Alternator is to disconnect the 2 yellow wires and put a meter on them. Set the meter for AC Volts range 60 or greater and rev the engine to 3k, you should see 40 Volts AC and 15 Volts AC at 1k or so if it's good. I prefer to run it up to 3k as you're not flogging the engine to death mechanically unloaded but have the revs high enough to ensure the Alternator should be giving you an output Of course when you disconnect the the Alternator you're running on battery only so top up the battery on a charger afterwards

I said this on my first post but going to ask the obvious again. All the connections are on the battery positive and they are clean? The same goes for the negative connection at the battery make sure it's clean. I usually clean them up with some Emery cloth, tighten and apply Vaseline/petroleum jelly Make sure to also check the where the negative battery cable is connected to the frame/engine. Remove that connection and give it a good clean, tighten it all back up and more Vaseline/petroleum jelly. If the connection from the battery negative to the frame/engine is poor then you're going nowhere.