Weegie

Yup they used these POS's a lot, good design let down by inappropraite material. @Lucky Phil has thread where he tore one down then modified it to work properly. I think it's an O ring that the gas swells and makes the tap hard to use. It looks to me like that one is in the Open position, but it might not be fully open, they are a bitch to use and I end up using a pipe wrench on them to open and close. Clockwise to close and Anticlockwise to open as viewed from the floor looking up to the tank, obviously the opposite if looking from the tank downwards towards the ground Good catch @paulnaz I never noticed and checked my Sporti and HiCam (don't have a V11) and the fuel tap is on the left on both bikes looking from the rear of the bike towards the front)

Bit late but it was posted up with an article on WG a long time back. Bored out 1100 Sport. One of my all time favourates but as Professor Roper said increasing the capacity of an 1100 Sport was questionable given its already marginal crankcase breathing

Disclaimer I only know the 5 speed box BUT that speedo drive assembly looks identical to the 5 speed. ASS-UMING it's the same then here are some pics from the 5 speed, if they are different I'm sure @docc will jump in The Worm drive that is turned by the layshaft is held onto the layshaft by a small steel ball, like a ballbearing. It sits in the longest groove in the layshaft and is held captive by the layshaft nut REMEMBER THIS IS A 5 SPEED THE 6 SPEED COULD BE DIFFERENT Did you remove the drive assembly, that bottom washer can get left behind and (if it's like the 5 speed) fall into the box and create mayhem Don't take any of this as correct until somebody familiar with the 6 speeder verifies that it's similar

My Sporti has the straight cut gearbox, which is generally considered a curse. I love the sound it makes though, at times it's louder than the engine. I've been through the box and everything is good, so far, it's just the noise it makes. As Phil said, sounds to me like he's off the throttle and the gears are running on the other face, if I was a gambling man, I'd put my money on the gearbox. The Sporti also has Joe's gears they don't (to my ear anyway) make anything like that sort of din

I'd never heard of a 2v/v engine failing to prime and never had to prime one, even on a dry engine after rebuilds. After 5 seconds or so (if the oil filter is prefilled) I've always seen pressure. It would be interesting to know if somebody has actually experienced this just out of interest The HiCams on the other hand are a completely different kettle of fish

I have no clue, but as @Scud said you've got to try to narrow down when the rattle is occuring. It doesn't sound like clutch plates to me, but I don't own a V11 and basing my experience on earlier bikes

Ouch!! Oh and just to shadow @docc reply, the Magni Sporti is a little different in it's drive shaft set up, but ocassionally if I've buggered up there I sometimes get a noise from it, more of click than a rattle but I hear it irrespective of clutch engagement. Apologies if you know all this and these answers are blindingly obvious, but I don't know how well you know the bike. I don't know the 6 speed box as all my bikes have the ancient 5 speed. If it was me I'd try to eliminate the obvious prior to tearing it apart, especially as it's the "summer" (although up here in Jockland you'd never know it)

Clutch plates rattling? If so absolutely nothing to worry about. Ducatis clutches are pretty noisy, but they use many more plates

I just hope @p6x doesn't ask about a gear indicator Phil's comment on a pressure gauge at your knee, raised a wry smile, my R9T has just that & to read the dipstick temp on the Guzzis similarly requires me to look down to read it, with the Australia I need to get off the bike. Although not 100% certain, I don't believe BMW provide any form of warning on loss of oil pressure on these bikes, not even a light, so I installed a gauge. I only glance at these gauges ocassionally, as and when it's safe to do so. That either confirms or rebutts what I'm guessing might be occuring. I find it reassuring and can concentrate on the ride, rather than the lingering nagging doubt in the back of my mind, but I'm paranoid. IMHO it's personal choice there isn't a right or wrong answer, I understand and agree with some of the arguments against. I could also make a reasonable case to counter some of these arguments but I really cannot be arsed.

A little harsh Pete, but you've always called it as you see it and you've forgot more than I'll ever know when it comes to these engines (or engines in general come to that) I agree to an extent but as I've got a dipstick temp gauge on all my engines (laughed at by most as a useless farkle). I use it especially with the HiCam. It's less useful on a 2v/v headed bike (my experience is they're more robust) and personally think a pressure gauge is of more use (but I have them installed as well). I tend to glance at mine on the Sporti when caught in unavoidable traffic queues and want to know how long (or how far) I'm going to get before I need to pull over and stop. Once sump temp goes over 120C your close to reaching the limit, although the HiCam can go as high as 130C, the oil pressure is dropping through the floor by that time and definately time to pull over. That said on the Sporti it usually starts to loose power, once above 120 and you can feel the heat coming off it, even then the oil pressure is still holding up (told ya the 2 v/v bikes are more robust) When it comes down to it, it's personal choice, so if @p6x wants it why not? [moderator edit to correct the origin of the discussion: p6x] It's certainly not doing any harm, it helped me gain a rough idea of how a particular engine behaves under various conditions.

It's what I'd take that to be, there's a temp sensor bolted onto one of the heads, I can't remember which one though

Don't know the V11, so it may be different on the Sporti and HiCam turning them clockwise closes them resulting in less air, so it would richen the mixture. AFAIK they are marginal things anyway and won't have much effect on the mixture EXCEPT at idle where the engine isn't breathing much. I've always understood that they are just used to balance up the TBs at tickover in case it's off a bit after you balance the butterflies at higher RPMs. Sure somebody who knows the V11 and is more knowledgable than me will chip in to give you a definitive answer

I believe Phil is referring to the intake manifolds that bolts onto the head, they are triangular and held by 3 cap screws. You'd remove them, think you'll need to purchase or make gaskets for them. Install the rubbers to the removed manifold, then install the TB assembly onto the other side of the intake rubbers. After that offer the whole thing up to head and bolt the manifolds into place Not sure if that explains it enough or not

Not a biggie to replace them although they can be quite tough to get off and on. Don't need to remove the tank, but the way I've did it in the past is to pull the whole TB assembly back, so you may not have enough room without removing the airbox. Then it's a bugger to try to get the TB assembly back on Grease would help getting them off, personally I wouldn't use grease putting them back on as you don't want them to move and rely on the friction to hold them in place. You could use something that will evaporate over time to ease them on. Just what I've done not saying it's the recommended method, lets see if others chime in

You guys could well be correct, but I'd be surprised. The Sprint's look similar to K&Ns & many, many have installed them to Sports and Daytonas without any remapping being required, despite all the dire warnings I see on the forums that the bike will run like crap. Granted you might lose a "hoss" or two, but anectodally I've not heard of anybody I know personally who installed them and had any issues. Different engine but in an article over on the COG forum on tuning, one owner found the stock airbox restrictive By all means try placing the stock filter back on as it's not a huge amount of work to test it, I'm interested to see if that's the problem. Quite happy to be proved wrong, every day being a school day and all that

Hi Pete My Sporti engined bike actually has a MyECU installed by a previous owner However I'm running Guzzidiag V0.60 on the HiCam engine (Daytona RS engine) which is also 16M AFAIK I started up the laptop to be sure and Guzzidiag tells me the ECU selected is the 16M, so perhaps I'm not losing my mind after all Understand why as the site doesn't make mention of the 16M being supported It's either that or I'm needing medical attention

I've got a Magni with 1100 sporti engine so it's a bit different, but I'd check the air temp, air pressure, cylinder head temp and TPS sensors are all plugged in and registering. GuzziDiag could be helpful here as it shows what the sensor values are. When you say running like crap, what exactly do you mean, misfire, lack of power, not idling?

@Tomchri is in probably the most advanced country along that road in Europe with a large number wind turbines and a huge take up in electric vehicles. I know Norway isn't in the EU. As I recall if that's approved then all the countries in the block need to agree as each has a veto, so if it has gone through then Italy has agreed to it Just checked it's the end of sales of petrol and deisel vehicles by 2035 a different thing altogether and it has still to be ratified by individual countries lawyers and ministers, so not quite a done deal anyway. Germany is in for a lot of pain as it's huglely dependent on gas and even coal.

I've been debating if I should purchase one of these Lithium minature jump start packs or the Super Capacitor version just in case. Could be attached to the lead from the battery to the starter, at the starter with the neg onto wherever on the engine or gearbox @Tomchri idea is a good one too, just make sure it's quite a beefy wire, I've used a wrench and a screwdriver in the past and the spark it makes on connection is impressive. Oh and stating the bleedin' obvious, FFS make sure the bike's in neutral by wheeling it to check, NEVER rely on "The gearbox is in the vicinty of neutral" warning light

Workshop Manual V11 Sport, is the one I grabbed from the Piaggo website I think calling for 20/50 The 5/40 recommendation surprises me, but I'm just a average bodger who knows little about such esoterics

I've never looked into the various viscosities in that amount of detail. As I only use the bikes in Spring/Summer/Autumn they never see an ambient below 10C (50F) so the low temp viscosities are academic and don't concern me The manual I have for the V11 states 20W/50, as do all the Guzzis of that era, I don't know if that changed in later V11 models. The only reason I'd run a 10W or below would to reduce wear on start up as it would circulate faster. However that needs to be balanced with warm up to operating temp and/or running temp, as some engines, dependent on ambient and other factors, may not reach 100C oil temp I came across a formula for interpolation of viscosites and it's far from perfect as it doesn't work so well with synthetics and multigrades, but it's better than nothing. Using it revealed some interesting results. When I changed from 15/50 to 10/60 around 20C the 10/60 is considerably more viscous than the 15/50 because of the higher viscosity index. So when the bike is cold on the 10/60 the oil is more viscous One more thing on viscosity is not all manufacturers who have the same grades are equal, the Motul synthetic I was using prior to moving to Penrite was a bit thinner for the same quoted grade. If I was changing grade I'd at least put on a temporary gauge to get some idea of what's happening to the oil pressure. From my limited experience you don't need to run the engine hard to get a clue, as above 3k RPM there is little change in pressure. The Sporti PRV opens at 60psi and when I'm out in ambients between 12-25C the pressure at above 2k is always around there. With Zinc the Mobil levels are high, the Penrite is 0.124% by mass I'm assuming that's 1240 PPM & Phosphorus 1100 PPM . There was a thread on here where somebody called Motul to check (I think it was 300V but unsure) and it was considerably lower

We're going a bit Off Topic from relays here, would it not be a better idea if you started a separate thread. [docc edit: Done! Thanks for the suggestion! ] Having a hot Hi Cam I've did a little delving into oils both viscosity grades and additives. The 2 I found that claim to have higher ZDDP were Pentrite and Royal Purple, both Australian oil manufacturers, I've no clue why. Currently I'm running the HiCam on 10/60 Full Synth Penrite. I've yet to get any meaningful mileage to evaluate it though. I've seen people stating Guzzi brought out a technical that the previously recommended 20/50 should go to 10/60, but on my Sporti I find that the bike runs fine on 15/50 (so a 20/50 would likewise be Ok). Purely anectodal, but I think the 2 V/V bikes don't require 10/60, they hold pressure fine on 20/50. The 4V/V bikes like the HiCam may benefit from 10/60 if they run hot. That's for the ambients in the UK, if you ride in high ambients then a 10/60 may be worthwhile. What little data I've gathered is from having a sump oil temp dipstick and a pressure gauge. You're quite correct though air cooled bikes will be more susceptable to changes in ambients, in the Ducati manual for my 1098 (a watercooled engine) it referenced a range of acceptable viscosity grades that could be used dependent on the ambient range. No clue if that helps or not.

I found getting anything near a reliable reading next to impossible, especially with the Roper plate in situ which can catch the dipstick. I followed Phil's advice on my HiCam and Sporti (the V11 broadsump should be the same) and "overfilled" to just below the level of the Roper Plate which you can see by looking through the dipstick hole. This works a treat for me and I have not experienced any problems with pressurization

Just a note of caution on LiFe batteries. They may be fine in fact I've got one in a Sporti, but be aware these batteries have lower internal resistance and can absorb and discharge higher currents. This could lead to problems with the Reg/Rec on older bikes. The Ducati forums were full of guys installing them and then having problems, some more serious than others. I can't remember off the top of my head but their charging regime is slightly different too. You can charge them with a conventional charger usually, but any de-sulphation cycle on the charger must be disabled. Some now have balance circuitry and overvoltage protection built in others not. If the battery doesn't self balance then a balance charge should be conducted ocassionally. Over the winter they are best stored at 80% charge, this doesn't mean 80% voltage, you need to get the relevant chart off the manufacturer Although I've had no problems with mine, I'm just pointing out some of the differences. If I had the Shindengen 847 like @Tomchri I'd have no hesitation in using one. They can be great, light, small, faster charging, long life and lots of cold cranking power (except in cold conditions) but just be aware that there are differences in the technology John

Perhaps, I'm still running the original in my HiCam and would still be using the original in the Sporti if the Fekin spigot hadn't broken off, the pump was fine Spare might be a good idea I suppose