Weegie

Nothing connected with the question but I replaced the OEM braided lines on my Hi Cam with new HEL lines and the difference in lever travel was a lot larger than I expected. The old lines, though braided, were obviously expanding a little so fluid being moved was expanding the lines and not moving the pads. That resulted in the lever at "full panic" was just touching the bars, now I recokon it's at least an inch clear. The feel is also much better, prior to installing the new lines the brakes felt a bit wooden and it was hard to judge how much braking force was being applied. Just thought I'd mention it

How are they assembled, as I don't know Napoleon? Picture might help Most come with a bolt through the mirror that goes into either a sliding 2 part mechanism or just a block of rubber with a hole up the center that fits inside the bar. If it's like that I'd just get a cylindrical rubber block that will fit inside the bar and use a flanged nut on the end

I agree, as I don't do much night riding, it's not much of an issue for me. Installing either an LED bulb or an HID (although they've mostly been surpassed by LEDs) is always going to result in a compromise. The H4 shell optics are designed for an H4 bulb and anything else will probably result in more stray light and possibly reduced performance. Some of the reduced performance will be overcome to a degree I suppose by the sheer brute force output of LEDs. If you just want to be seen during the day though IMHO an LED bulb is a good way to enhance visibility to other road users, but could become a liability after dark. My preference is to install an LED unit and not a Chinese cheapy. There are a few YouTube channels where some folks did extensive testing on many units. As I recall the JW Speaker's products scored consistently high on the ratings and nearly all the Chinese offerings were woeful.

Some explanation of what I did to install the Koso Thunderbolt LED Headlamp The bike had a Bosch H4 Unit installed as standard & looks better, don't think there wold be any argument there. The Unit is very large and the hole in the fairing to accomodate it is approximately 306mm diameter The Koso Thunderbolt lamp is 170mm diameter. This left a large gap and as the unit doesn't have a bucket would also be deeper in the fairing After looking to try to find a suitable bucket and failing I came across a trim ring on Ali Express https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002252489460.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.9.775d1802WuUIaq This would take up some of the gap, but wasn't wide enough, to protrude into the fairing from the mounts that the headlamp mates to. So I ordered 2 with the idea of joining them together, the outer diameter of the tirm ring was 190mm. That would reduce the gap from approx 18mm (36/2) to 8mm (16/2). I'd also have the issue of how to secure the headlamp and the trim ring to stop it freely rotating. The Bosch butted onto the mounting tabs and tightening the tabs to the bucket prevented it rotating. Eventually in desperation after running out of ideas I used Gorrila tape to join the 2 trim rings together. To my surprise this worked much better than expected and the trim rings were quite secure. I also needed to buy 2 thread reducers from E Bay as the trim rings were tapped for M10 and I needed M8 Using a 5mm sponge strip, usually used for draught excluders on doors, I placed that around the headlamp and squeezed the trim rings onto the headlamp. To stop the whole thing now freely rotating I got longer bolts that bottomed out inside the headlamp then using nuts between the lamp and the mounting tab I could screw them onto the mounting tabs on the inside, clamping the bolts onto the tabs. As the bolts also bottomed out in the headlamp and the trim rings were secured to the lamp with foam it was held captive. Sort of difficult to explain so this picture might help to make it clearer, you can see the nut on the inside clamping the tab Finally I need a rubber trim to take up the gap between the trim ring and the fairing, somewhere around 8-9mm. After a few fails I purchased a some D rubber strip, this is normally used to seal doors, hatches etc: The one I chose would usually be used for hatches on boats. As the inside is hollow it can be compressed down to squeeze through the 8mm gap and expands back out either side and worked a treat. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112139428859 Not sure if that helps or not

Not in my bedroom, its the basement, I can wheel the bikes in from the back of the house, makes Winter maintenance a little more bearable. Thank you for the compliment, I'm still unsure about the look, but it was the best I could manage, not that's saying very much. I'll post up what I did, but it was all a bit "Bodge it yourself" there was no grand plan. More WTF have I gotten myself into and WTF will I do now trying to get an install that looked even halfway decent.

The most common Shindengen purchased on Ducatis that I know of is the Shindengen is the FH020AA, these cost a lot less than the 847. I recall a couple of guys posted on WG that they had installed FH020AAAs into Sports, which use the same charging system as the V11 and were running without issue, but caveat emptor, personally I've no idea what it might do to alternator life. Beware of Chinese "look-a-likeys" on the Bay of Fleas and elsewhere for the FH020AAAs going for stupidly little money, I very much doubt they're Shindengen units or built to the same specs. As I recall it was @Kiwi_Roy that told me the OEM reg/recs in the bikes were the series type, which is unusual, the 847 is a series type regulator. Shunt regulators short circuit the alternator, so large current flow and can cause the alternator to get hot EDIT The Reg/Rec also gets hot, perhaps the reason the OEM Ducati Reg/Recs fail (which are shunts, at least it was on my 1098) Series open ciricuit the alternator, so no current flows and the alternator runs cool, but a high voltage can be generated in the stator windings IMHO the series type is far superior. Both the FH020AAA and 847 are 3 phase regulators, so to use them for the single phase alternators, that are in the Sports and V11, one phase is not used, effectively cutting the output rating by 1/3rd. The alternator output on the Sports and V11 are not high enough for this to be an issue, but don't take my word and double check anyway. The 847s are very spendy, but if I develop any reg/rec issues with the Sport it's definately what I intend to use Roadster Cycle sell them and also have some good info about them https://roadstercycle.com/

Just to add if anybody was wanting to install an LED unit that is smaller than the OEM, with a fairing and is foolish enough to want to know how I ended up with the headlamp looking halfway decent, I'm open to explaining it all. Just didn't want to bore the lot of you when it's a V11 forum and that clearly is nothing like a V11

Just coz I stumbled across this thread I thought I'd put in my bodged effort to install an LED unit into the Sfida. Yes I know the original H4 Bosch unit looks better, I could hardly think I'd do a better job than Arturo Magni after all. I was also careful to ensure I could easily change it back, I reckon the stock one could be back in, taking a little over an hour from start to finish. I very rarely ride in the dark now, I wanted an LED unit to improve my visibility to others in daytime conditions. Purchased a Koso Thunderbolt, it has a flat Lo Beam so suitable for left and right side driving. When it comes to 7" headlamps the measurement is a joke, the Bosch OEM unit is >300mm diameter (say 305), the Thunderbolt is 170mm. After a lot of bodging and experimentation and regretting that the idea ever entered my tiny little brain I got something that, sort of, works. I won't bore you with all the details, but in the end I'm reasonably pleased with the result. Was it worth the effort? DEFINATELY NOT. That said it has yet to be tested out on the road and the LED running light on its own will be more visible to other traffic, due to the higher colour temp, than the H4 dip beam I reckon hope.

Fine looking machine & glad you found the problem

Sorry for the oil level comment, but just checking there was plenty in it I don't own a V11, basing my experience on my Sporti, but that's exactly the sort of behaviour I see when the bike is overheating, which could be a cause or a symptom of the low pressure I guess. If you were at speed and with not much traffic on the open road, almost certainly a symptom but if stuck in town and crawling along in traffic it might be, at least, a partial cause. If you don't want to drain the oil and drop the sump immediately, although I'd recommend you do. You could remove the plugs to allow the starter to spin faster and reduce load on the big ends. Ensure battery is fully charged then crank it over on the starter, it should develop pressure almost immediately although it won't rise as high as with the engine running, it should be well over 20psi, seem to recall on the Sport it will easily rise to 40 plus. Keep the plugs in the HT leads and ground them, preferably away from the plug hole. Spin it for a 5-10 seconds max, providing you haven't drained off the oil then that should be more than enough time to see if it's developing pressure. What viscosity oil are you using and what pressures do you normally see? I run the Sport on 15W/50 and oil pressure at 3k rpm and above is a solid 60psi (usually a bit above when cold), at idle when hot it's around 15-20 psi As far as the Roper Plate it should have no impact, unless you got this issue just after the install, then it might be. This isn't typical of values you'll see but, here is a HiCam engine being spun over after an oil change (with oil filter pre-filled) just to give an indication of how quick pressure develops, your values will be a lot lower.

There are a few likely culprits, first off I wouldn't conduct any experiments that involved running the engine Was the bike likely to have been overheating? Its improbable, but if the bike got super hot then you could loose pressure, but I've never seen that on a 2v/v engine. I'm assuming there's oil in the engine As @MartyNZ said most likely culprit is the oil filter. Drop the pan and check, if that's not it the relief valve is in there too and check the gaskets Sounds like the filter to me, leaking and dropping the pressure when the engine is above 2k rpm pressure really starts to build up to 3k rpm when the engine's developing more or less full pressure (but you probably know that as you've a gauge), I reckon that's why you seen the small rise when you rev'd it. I think a gauge is a good idea, but I've encountered a lot of stiff competition on that philosophy, if you didn't have one you'd now be dicking around with oil pressure warning switch. Good Luck, be interested to know what you find.

Interesting @Pressureangle I don't know if I'm setting up my Sport correctly but I close the airbleeds then balance at 2k and 3k rpm on the butterflies the idea is both TB's get the same amount of fuel so I try ensure they get the same amount of air, at 3k hopefully they are starting to flow a reasonable amount of air Then I set idle using the throttle stop on one side only (other side is screwed way out). Finally I adjust the air bleeds to balance the TBs at idle. Correct me on this if I'm wrong but my thinking is the amount of air fed via air bleeds is pretty much insignificant in the scheme of things compared to the butterflies so they've negligable effect at any significant throttle opening. I agree on the statement regarding getting it perfect I just get it near enough at the 2k and 3k mark and average a little

Just what I do, so others may have a different opinion, but all I use is either some blocks of wood or a wide jack something like this If supporting the gearbox as well, I just stuck a scissors jack underneath it Stein Dinse (and probably a lot of others) have specific stands, but I've just never found them necessary https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=686#prettyPhoto

Here's my 98, it's a nothing video just a start and idle but let's you guys take a look. Given me a lot of headaches, now sorted about much as I can sort it. Still runs hot and you'd better not get caught with it in traffic or it'll cook (you and the bike). Out on the road though it's great fun, it encourages you to rev it, I'm normally running it at 5k and above because that's where it seems happiest and noise is great The Australia 98s had the Daytona RS engine (hence the heat due to the stupid cam only fitted to the RS lumps), a beam frame, similar to Guzzi's (the 92s had a tubular frame more akin to Tontis) and Paioli forks replacing the Forcelle Italia on the 92s

I saw it already but it's a great video and what a symphony!!! It's also worth looking at his other videos some truly splendid bikes with some background on them including some other Guzzis. I know that bike and its previous owner who had it for a long time. It's in first class condition and the PO is very meticulous in caring for his bikes. It's an Australia 92, with the standard Daytona engine, but that particular engine has been upgraded to a "B" kit, its also got some other goodies including a spacer that incorporates an oil cooler with temp and pressure gauge plus Caruso oil pump with steel oil pump and service shaft gears. There was a later run of Australias made in 98 and they were different in quite a few ways, though you might not notice at first glance

Got them on the Magni 1000 and a monoshock on the R9T I really like their products

I was going to add earlier to check the Voltage on the black wire which I believe is the reference but didn't as @farfons stated he ran that wire to the battery and there was no change, the same with the earth but again he did that as well. In my experience on my Sporti that double "jack" plug comes apart easily, for now they're held together with a cable tie, but I'm going to cut them both off and replace it with something more secure. The reference itself is measured in a crap place passing through a fuse and 2 relays (starter & headlamp) in the Sport, not to mention the wire running the length of the bike, so corroded or dirty contacts could cause the reference to "see" low volts and lead to overcharging. That said you've already eliminated these as potential problem by running wiring to the battery to test and found no difference, so you've reached my level of ignorance on the issue.

Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries).

No all Daytonas were 4v/v HiCam engines, the difference between the cooking Daytona and the RS were Dark Grey Engine Paint WP Suspension front and rear (the early bikes has pretty awful Marzocchi front forks and a Koni rear shock) Stage C engine tune (Wiseco pistons, Carrillo Rods, hotter cam, Hi Flow air filter, different exhaust and map) That looks like an early one (it's a 93 and that's about the year they started in production) judging by the forks, pork chops and engine colour, although it has the pod filters and bellmouth as fitted to the Dr John and what looks like a Termigioni full system, I can't be sure, the crossover isn't standard and the end cans are Termis (or Termi stickers). The white paint job, or it could be a wrap, isn't standard either (but I think really suits it) and the wheels are black, the originals were white, which looked great until you rode it and had to clean them after every ride. Personally I think it's a really nice example that's been tastefully modded. All that's just off the top of my head there's probably more. Even a "cooking" Daytona is a magic thing, the 4v/v engine is a beast, it encourages you to rev it and it sounds glorious. 15k sounds a little rich, but they really are great bikes and I think will rise in value, after the round heads I think it's the best looking engine Guzzi made.

I wasn't going to post again, but, the PRV release pressure can be adjusted by shimming the spring to compress, making the valve lift at higher pressures. With the HiCam engine my own experience was the OEM spring acuation wasn't all or nothing, it partially lifted, prior to full lift When I conducted static tests on the valve I found the lift pressure with cold oil on the bench was higher than the pressure when I ran the valve in the engine. My best guess why this occurs (and it's no more than that) was the valve cycling inside the running engine. The result was the running pressure in the engine was lower than the lift pressure obtained on the bench. I also want to thank @Lucky Phil for all the time and help he generously gave me and the solution of installing the Griso spring into the PRV in the HiCam. Without it I'd still be groping around in the dark. The aforementioned results were with the 4v/v engine and it's different to the 2v/v engine. I've never had the need to conduct any tests on a 2v/v engine as I've never experienced any problems with the 2v/v bikes. On both of mine the pressure is stable at approximately the PRV lift pressure of 60psi once the engine is up to temp and revs over 2ks. No idea if that's any help or not but thought I'd add it just in case

I've been poked with a stick before on oil pressure and my approach to monitoring with what I percieved as a potential problem engine. I don't think my phillosophy is 100% correct for all people on all ocassions, nor do I believe it's 100% wrong. IMHO there is more than "one way to skin a cat" and the answers to questions/problems don't need to be mutually exclusive. EDIT: And just to let everybody in on a little secret, the reason manufacturers don't fit gauges to vehicles anymore?............Accountants I'll get my coat

Have you checked the PRV @LaGrasta ? Just an idle musing on my part and I wondered if it was sticking slightly. @motortouring IMHO its not bad idea to do that, I just never thought about it

I don't own a V11 but have a Sport 1100 an LM 1000 & a HiCam engined bikes, so on V11 specifics I'm somewhat lacking, but AFAIK there is little difference between the V11 and Sport on the lubrication side. You obviously are well aware of the pressure behaviour on the bikes and I'm sure you also know that the oil pressure switches don't have the best reliability reputation. On your friends V11 it's almost certainly the bulb that's defective. I've never switched the bike off with the kill switch and then kept an eye on the pressure warning, so can't say for sure, if there would be a slight delay or not, but I can't recall seeing it happen. I've never ran a 2 v/v bike on 10/60, but the additional viscosity might also increase the pressure decay time. I also don't understand the statement about the oil pressure being out after the bike stalls (ignition OFF), the light will be out if the igntion swtich if OFF as there is no voltage to it, pressure or not it will not illuminate. If the light doesn't illuminate when the ignition is on and the engine has not been run the pressure switch is defective or starting to fail. What I'd do is either replace the switch, remove the exisitng switch and test it, or install a temporary gauge into the pressure switch location to separate the true pressure behaviour in the system from the instrumentation. If installing a gauge I believe the crankcase thread for the switch is an M12x1.5 thread Here is a crank test on a HiCam (4v/v) bike with cold 15W/50 oil, it doesn't have any relevance except you can see there is a short period when the engine stops rotating and the pressure decays to approx 7psi. That's on cold oil though, I'd expect it to be much quicker on a hot engine

Just put that onto my watch list I haven't checked what the threads are on the Guzzi part as I don't want to drain the tank right now If you do size yours it would be great if you could tell us if this is a direct replacement as I'd purchase a couple for my bikes. If you check his stores for a few dollars more he offers an assembly with the guaze filter and/or the filter separately

Just to add that I don't think it'll make any difference on which side the Petcock and pressure regulator are, providing the tubing in the fuel system is rearranged to suit. However if the Petcock and pressure regulators have just been swapped over then I doubt the engine would start. You'll also be running the pump dry and that won't be doing it any good either. Line from the Petcock should run to the fuel pump inlet, the pump outlet then runs to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter a line runs to one of the injectors then the other after that a line runs up to the regulator on the tank (ASS-uming it's the same a HiCam or Sporti). I'd follow the Petcock line and make sure it's running to the pump inlet, if it's running to one of the injectors then you'll need to swap the Petcock and pressure regulator components around. Apologies if I'm "teaching my granny"