p6x
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Posts posted by p6x
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53 minutes ago, docc said:
That said, the V11 is really not happy in these very high temperatures or at those low RPM. The combination can be particularly aggravating. So, simply riding in a lower gear to let the motor rev more freely may be all that is needed . . .
It makes sense actually. Its not really how I ride, but I have to keep in mind its an air cooled engine low speed and low revs, high ambient air temperature and high humidity at sea level.
I think I am going to run some tests, including with lower temperatures, to confirm the behavior.
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21 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
I just went and looked at a std v11 2000 fuel and ignition maps and one interesting thing is around that RPM and probable throttle opening there is a large step in the ignition advance. So 2700-3200 rpm and 4.2-5.2 deg throttle which is kind of in the area of issue. The advance change is interpolated between these cells of course and maybe I'm wrong but possibly this area of change combined with engine temp and OAT play a part. If I still had the 2 valve fitted I could have a play but of course when you want it to hickup it never does.
Ciao
The jump is quite obvious.
I have the tendency to always "ride on the torque", and keep the engine revs as low as possible. It is very possible that I am in the "grey" zone where there aren't as many points.
Tomorrow I will try to keep the rpm above 3k, just to see if there is any improvement.
I think the explanation is just that. There is too much of a gap in the mapping to keep the engine happy. And the interpolation is possibly linear, which does not really work.
When you combine Air Temperature, Air Humidity, barometric pressure we get into the dew point zone? this would be consistent with not having the engine missing at lower temperatures and humidity. It almost feels like the ECU algorithm was never designed to cope with those atmospheric conditions.
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On 11/24/2018 at 9:52 AM, al_roethlisberger said:
What are the running symptoms of the CO being set too low?
The problem I've had with the bike since new was a "cough" at around 3-4k RPM once warmed up and cruising. Sometimes moving the cruising RPM around will stop it for a bit, but it returns.
I am experiencing the same.
I have perfect idle. No fluctuation at all.
My 04 Le Mans was immobilized since the beginning of June this year, waiting on a bar end weight.
Prior to that, the bike was running properly.
Yesterday, I took the bike out around 90 degF, felt temp 99 degF because of the humidity, and when keeping steady rpm to respect 45 mph, I got some sputter. Not permanently, but recurrent. If I open the throttle, it goes away.
Prior to my June cold storage, I had never had any kind of sputter when maintaining steady RPM. However the air was cooler.
I have read the FAQ topics:
-TPS Setup and TBT
-Decent Tune up
-V11 ECU diagnostics and reprogramming
and this one: Set you V11 CO Fuel trim
Could I get away with simply changing the CO fuel trim by trial and error?
My main problem, is that I cannot make sense of having the injection sputter when I keep the same rpm constant. All the parameters fed to the ECU remain the same; so there should not be any reason for it to get confused. Or is my assumption wrong?
I am aware that quick changes in RPM are usually the source of sputter, as the ECU may lag a bit in adjusting to sudden revolution increase. But on a steady input, why would the fuel regulation miss?
The sputter I experience is always around 3000 rpm, or below. It does not seem to happen once you go beyond 3k.
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4 hours ago, docc said:
Or simply paint them both the same?
Thought about that too, but the clutch and front brake levers both seem power coated exactly like the end bar weights were.
I know, it is really minimal and I should let it go. Nobody is going to see it apart from me.
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2 hours ago, po18guy said:
This explains the LeMans-Airhead dichotomy.
Which technology do you prefer?
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The owner just sent me a text. He will let me have the ruins for $1500; I politely declined.
Since the bike is parked in front of his house, I am going to monitor how long it takes before he manages to find someone to purchase it.
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9 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
I'd (no I wouldn't myself, actually) chuck it up into my cordless drill and spend a little time smoothing it out, then zinc primer it and final coat with black gloss Rustoleum. Let it dry well in the sun, or oven if you have no sun. It'll be so hard you'll think it's powder coated.
Thanks!
I don't have a buff, but I know where to find one not far away. I will try your suggestion. And if it looks too different, I can always do the powder later.
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18 hours ago, footgoose said:
No. As it is it's junk. In the best of shape it's mediocre. If you have the vintage-bike-resto-itch, I get it. There are better choices for that.
I am not that type of guy that needs to bring back to life the remains of the day. It was more the opportunity of having this skeleton in a closet super close to my front door.
My Le Mans may feel lonely later on, when winter returns and black out resumes.
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18 hours ago, Scud said:
Put $400 a month in jar till you have enough to buy one that runs. You will spend less money and have a running bike sooner.
Did you notice the spoke wheel up front and the mag in the back? If it had a pair of good condition "snowflake" wheels, it could be worth $400 just to get the wheels. If it was an R90S, I might sing a different tune, but there is nothing special about a /6.
This is exactly what MPH said to me. You will spend less money getting one that runs already. What about the "pride" feel that you did it "all by myself"!? is that worth nothing any more?
I am not very familiar with the BMW's, it was just the opportunity to get one a few hundred feet from where I live, and getting a tool box together. And of course, you are right, rebuilding a sorry bike always turns out to be more expensive than buying a running one.
The clincher is time. I just don't have enough time to dedicate myself to it. It was a good excuse to test my faded skills.
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19 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Whatever happened to the "right price" being "whoever drags it out of my sight and doesn't charge me to do so". Seems to me what it's worth in the harsh light of day. Maybe a case of beer, cheap beer that is. Valuing old shitters like this is about what you want it to be. A part it out exercise, full resto, old rat bike, what? and of course the hidden mysteries within.
Ciao
I don't think this guy drinks beer... discovery of the hidden mysteries is part of the fun... I am guessing you are married :-)
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12 hours ago, docc said:
"Why would you want to spend hours working on that heap when you have a Lemans to ride? "
Where has all the fantasy gone nowadays? we used to get married four hours after having met a lady hanging around the pool in Vegas... we used to take risks back in the days; or was it only me?
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12 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
I was just composing my post saying the same thing. You'll be in it for $2500 just to get it roadworthy. If it was complete with title, $500.
Yes, you stopped me from making a mistake.
I think the BMW was just an excuse to start setting my garage into a workshop. Obviously, a project of this magnitude would have been a good reason to fight the good battle to get it.
Come to think of it, my MG has spent more time immobilized than on the tarmac. So I should start with that before I venture and lose myself somewhere else.
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12 hours ago, fotoguzzi said:
Run, don't walk away.. unless you have endless time and even more money I see it as a complete waste of your time. Why would you want to spend hours working on that heap when you have a Lemans to ride?
but yeah $3-400 sounds reasonable.
The philosophical thinking is to actually have a side project, besides riding my MG which I do, but so far, I have been restrained in my distance endeavors.
I think there is some reward in giving a second life to something that has been neglected.
I do not have access to unlimited funds.
But after reading all the comments, including the first impression from MPH Houston, I think I am going to side with you. I have been back in the motorcycle riding world only very recently, and it seems that the lyricism procured from my Le Mans got me carried away. I was dreaming to be the savior...
After looking at it with new eyes, including the comments on this page, I am going to curb my enthusiasm... I feel bad to have been deterred so easily though; but on second thought, I agree with your assessment.
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I lost my right hand side bar end weight, and the replacement I found (one month wild goose hunting) came rough lathed.
I would like to get it painted, but the brake levers and left hand side look powder coated to me. Can anyone confirm?
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This sorry looking R90/6 has been sitting outside in the rain for a while, and since it is on my street and it was not always there, I stopped by and inquired.
This was a gift bike. There is no title and I was told it was indeed for sale, but they did not have a price for it yet. The guy I spoke to said he would have to get a tittle bond, which I am not familiar with.
As I was picking up my Le Mans from the shop today, I asked for advice and what I got was not very encouraging. The recommendation I got was to purchase a bike in running state as these project bikes can end up costing a fortune. Especially when you do not have any kind of history.
The seller said he would give me a call during the week to give me a price.
I think this bike is a 1976, because of the brake levers' shape. The 1974 had a very pronounced dog leg.
As you can see, many accessories are missing, and my Guzzi shop which work on old bikes too said I should pay no more than $400 for a bike in that kind of shape. I was told the tank and seat could be had for under $1000, however the bike may need a lot more than just what is obviously missing. I assume it has 105914 miles on the odometer. My main issue is that I do not have any tools to work on it. I would have to purchase everything, including a stand. I know my way around mechanical things, my main worry is to source BMW parts in the USA. I already had a little taste with my Guzzi. Replacing the handlebar weight on the right hand side took one month. And the one I got is not painted.
I am aware we are in the Guzzisti V11 garden here, but maybe some of you have more experience than me in restoring old motorcycles.
I am not trying to make it look like new. I just would like to make it running again, so I could use it side by side with my Le Mans.
Anybody can confirm the year? NADA says a running R90/6 of 1976 in fair condition should be priced at $1795.
Should a 400/500ish offer be insulting? what do you think? stick to the Le Mans only? leave this one to the flippers?
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I found the full history of C.E.V. on an Italian website, and they also offer a translation in English... the company starts in 1906. The actual name is HB4
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3 hours ago, Grim said:
Both the ITI and CEV Speedos have their names stamped into the whit plastic housing in the back. I don't have a good photograph of my ITI one, here is the CEV:
I can believe the mechanism inside come from some other manufacturer, as it is essentially identical between the two, the CEV just having some better quality parts. It is the plastic body that is slightly different, although not by much!
This is my ITI, it has made in Italy just like the one in your photo.
I have found the actual manufacturer of "C.E.V." "Fratelli Pagani" in Milan Italy.
C.E.V. stands for: Costruzioni Elettromeccaniche Venegonesi.
They no longer exist under that name. They manufactured a lot of accessories for motorcycles, including electrical components. As you can read in the schematics I posted below, you could purchase the wiring for your motorcycle ready to be installed.
I am guessing I.T.I. may also be a brand from one of these defunct Italian companies. Although I have not yet been able to associate it with any known Italian company.
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8 hours ago, Grim said:
Just an interesting point, the Ducati monster/750ss/900ss CEV / ITI gauges have a metal gear, where the Guzzi one is plastic . I replaced the gears myself in my ITI speedo and it's holding up well, unfortunately the speedo body is 2mm wider otherwise I would have just fit the whole thing!
Here is my ITI speedo in pieces with the new parts fitted.
So that silver worm gear on my (lovely) workbench is actually sliver plastic, whereas the one I fitted from the Ducati speedo is metal.
Likewise for the long gear on the left, the old one is all chewed up as you can see, It is a weird design as it is tapers towards the bottom end and sits over another worm gear that, without enough grease, just rubs a notch in it over time.
I also scavenged all the parts for the trip reset knob, which works fine now!Where does it say ITI on your gauge?
on my hUR/ITI, the "ITI made in Italy" was embossed on the back of the (cheap) plastic container.
Before finding Joel Levine, I was in contact with an Italian shop that does the same thing as Joel, and they told me "ITI" was only manufacturing the container, the actual mechanism was from either Korea or Japan.
I combed the Italian Moto-Guzzi forums, and tried to find an Italian company with an ITI brand name, did not.
hUR and CEV in your case, may have been only doing the face plate's serigraph printing.
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And the final B4/After....
The odometer now works, the partial resets to zero.... I have been using an App to monitor my mileage while the Odometer was not working.
I will make a separate thread about it, since it is "free" and does not involve monitoring you via the GPS function of your media. So it is not as accurate as a GPS, but it is very lenient on battery consumption.
You have the ability to adjust the mileage if you want to; either by entering it manually, or to retroactively pick the route you followed using google maps.
I used that app to check for the accuracy of the Odometer, and it came that the mileage as read by the ITI/hUR was 0.1 mile short of the total reported by the app. Of course, it was a short distance, so I have to see what it does on longer trips.
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Your business card says you are located in Los Angeles.
Providing you do not see a lot of rain, and I would have thought Texas would have also qualified but it has been raining non stop last week, today too...
I would instead of the Road 5 go for the Power RS; if you are in a hot environment almost all year long, look no further... it is like being glued to the road, and the feel is just incredible...
The front tire will last about 6000 miles and the rear 4500 miles off track... so not much longevity, but once you try them, you will understand what I mean.
Check out the presentation of the Power RS by STG; here's the link!
Main issue seems to be availability. I checked a few websites, and they are all out of stock. At some point, I will install them on my Le Mans.
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I received the fixed ITIhUR Speed/Odometer today @2:00 pm.
The gauge has a partial trip reset knob too.
I can see the mileage read 8866.4, from the previous reading at 8865;
I will report back once more when the gauge is back in place.
The three pics below shows the Speedo/Odometer before, and after Joel Levine's divine intervention.
If I take into consideration the shipping to and from into the price, the total tag is $400. You may construe this as "expensive", but if you consider the service, it is not.
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9 hours ago, LowRyter said:
Sorry, if I wasn't clear. Joel fixed my speedo and it's still working. That's opposed to buying new gauge for about the same money, such as Speedhut, which understand work quite well too.
I guess I wasn't clear. Joel does good work. That's why I've recommended here years ago.
Understood! thank you for the clarification.
I don't dislike the SpeedHut alternative; it is more a matter of keeping the bike the way it was then. I am eager to have a working Odometer.
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3 hours ago, LowRyter said:
He's OK if you want to keep your original gauges.
I am not certain I understand what you meant. As far as I know, he is returning me the gauge I shipped. Although it could be possible that he has a stock of already fixed instruments, so he only swaps the internals and ship back the container?
Is this what you implied in the message above? I will be able to verify, since I have pictures of the serial number of the gauge I sent.
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Joel shipped the gauge back to me today Wednesday May 19th, ETA is Saturday May 22nd.
Turn around was seven days total.
Will report back once the Speedo/Odo gauge is back in place and running.
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Set your V11 CO Fuel Trim!
in How to...
Posted
the valve number corroborates Lucky Phil's statement that he does not have the issue with the four valved Daytona.
When it comes to design, I am pretty sure none of the European motorcycle companies simulated extreme weather conditions to confirm their criteria.
Ducati has a lot of experience in fuel injection control. Maybe we should get them involved for a replacement ECU on our V11 Guzzi? https://www.ducatienergia.com/media/products/140128-1710-efi.pdf
If you look at the last page of their presentation, they include an air temperature sensor, and an absolute air pressure sensor.