p6x

I did observe that my oil pressure warning light stayed lit longer than usual.... now I understand why!!!! Typically, it goes out right away.

Which one for you?

Right; I think we are all in agreement. We agree there are two TDCs, only one should be used to adjust the valves' gap. Spinning the engine either direction achieves the same, while it is preferred to turn it in its normal working direction.

Here's the Mouser company link: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ERT-LG12N714T?qs=TI15CVqcli2ywRPZTXVDGQ%3D%3D They are located in Mansfield Texas around the Dallas / Forth Worth area. From the look of it, they are whole seller, but you never know. @LowRyter I have used the actual mileage to refuel during each of my outings. Only at home do I ride till the low fuel light comes on before I refuel. If my thermistor was to fail, other than disturbing my sense of having the bike is proper order, it would not be a big deal. My way of riding the V11 is predictable so I know how far I can go between refills. Besides, with the kind of sun light we have here, depending time and orientation, that light can be invisible.

The Panasonic seems to be unavailable everywhere I looked. However, I found some US companies having it in their listing, with a zero stock. If you can't find anything else, one of these company is in Texas, and I could try to check with them. I would not get my hopes up though. It is easy to understand this product is obsolete. Refrigerators use thermistors still; not that kind though. But there maybe a possibility to fix it?

I also found out from an other forum, the Panasonic ERTLG12N7 is a replacement for the stock Guzzi. It only requires adapting the holder for a perfect fit.

I suppose you have made certain the fuel sensor is the root cause of the problem. I found this on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153094025684

https://www.rugbyworldcup.com/2023 Watch the Haka!!! opening match....

According to an article I read about this movie, which has been seen at the Telluride festival, the actors had to take a riding course to be able to ride: I have personally ridden old bikes, albeit when I was in my teens, so about 50 years ago. Mostly British and French. What I am certain, is that the movie will do what they normally do with vintage cars movie. The real vintage cars are for normal shots. If there is going to be stunts of falls, they will use modern bikes in disguise.

I have read a little bit about it, and although we cannot really know until we see it. It's inspired by a photography book from a guy named Danny Lyon. It follows the transformation of a motorcycle club over a decade. I must admit that i kind of like the lead cast actor, Tom Hardy. I also liked Jodie Comer in the Villanelle show. That will change me from Yellowstone or Longmire. I don't know if Texas has anything to do with it, but I am drawn to the cowboy way of life.

I did some more investigation into the reason why one may want to spin the engine in the correct direction. Something that we have not discussed here yet? During our four cycles, the piston goes up twice, but there is only one TDC. The true TDC happens between the compression and ignition phase. The other piston up is apparently called "the overlap"; between exhaust and admission. This is because the exhaust and admission valves are supposed to have a very small overlap when the exhaust valve is closing while the admission valve begins to open. It makes sense to turn your engine in its natural cycles direction, to differentiate TDC from "Overlap", as if you are in the "overlap" position, the piston will still be at the top, but either exhaust or admission valves could be actuated.

Got you! My new spring only has two coils and not three. I will complete my Texas tour and switch the springs then. By the way, I did my trip home in 1st gear, because when I got stuck in second gear, I managed to shift down and that was the end of it. It gave me more time to appreciate the landscape.

I have seen how those springs are manufactured. Or at least, back in the days. I am guessing the build in quality control has improved considerably. Before, the quality control was done by picking a spring every X number, and checking that it was still within manufacturing tolerances. If out of specification, the machine would be adjusted and the production would resume. The new machines are probably able to check accuracy during manufacturing, and adjusting without any human help. I am not going to wait until the spring breaks again. I am going to do 15k miles, and I will check it out.

Relays: while I have purchased qty 5 of the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12, I have never installed them other than doing some trouble shooting when I was affected by the "no crank" issue. I have now 30,000 miles and counting. Staintune: my V11 is equipped with this exhaust. I scratched one of the cans, and when I checked Staintune, they were no longer in business, having been purchased by another Australian company. After reading your message, I checked again, and it seems they are on the net again, devoid of an exhaust system for the V11, or any Moto Guzzi for that matter. They have a contact form, so you may be able to get them to make one for you. This is how mine sounds: This is with the Mistral: https://www.facebook.com/reel/1919546008426964 The Mistral look very good on the V11...

I purchased a re-engineered pawl spring, but did not install it yet. I want to check if the OEM one I re-installed will break again. This time, the coiled part of the spring is properly loose, and the effort is distributed around it as it should have always been. The stock springs may have been too tight around the axle, causing the fatigue to be localized at a single point. I am including some photos so you can get a clear understanding of the issue. I have the broken spring and new spring photographed together below, so you can easily see where the stock one broke.

I have removed that seat several times before I fixed my no start issue. That screw was never loose. When I got my tires changed earlier this year, I requested an air filter clean. Then my left admission boot slips its admission pipe, and the screw that holds the tank is 5mm up..... Guzzi or not, it feels strange. Anyway, now I am going to have to get that tank gouges filled and repainted.

I am not certain to have understood the issue; is this for all the Rosso Corse tanks?

I had that exact same problem a few weeks ago, which I described in another post. Same left side of the engine, and same lack of accessibility for one of the worm clamp. In the picture below, you can see the rubber boot completely off the admission pipe. You need to purchase a radio socket set containing 1/4" extensions and knuckle joints. The screw can be turned either by a flat screwdriver or a metric socket. Try to loosen the screws as much as you can. It is not easy, but with a bit of perseverance, you should be able to get it loose enough so you can rotate the clamp to get the screw more accessible. Use some spray on the clamp itself to help you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1589241764655627/permalink/3581633522083098/ https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607477492402&set=pcb.3581633522083098 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607554159061&set=pcb.3581633522083098 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607400825743&set=pcb.3581633522083098 Really stunning beautiful..... my kind of color!

If anybody was interested, they have reduced the ask price by 1000; https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/1993-Moto+Guzzi-DAYTONA+1000-5022866829?zmc=PriceAlert-ADDetail-btn

Cheap? well not anymore. As they have now become the norm, they are no longer providing cheaper goods than the brick and mortar. Besides they are also taking cost cutting measures, not mentioning twisting the hands of those companies that sell on A.com. Now they have allowed a lot of third party sellers underneath them, I have had a lot of unpleasant surprises. Now A.com is my last resort. I make an effort to purchase from other store fronts or local dealers whenever possible. Even if I have to pay for the shipping and wait longer.

I took off my seat to check the tank's fastener and found it unscrewed. The head was clearly off the large washer, allowing the tank to move laterally. I guess this was the root cause of the problem as when I removed the fairing to change the head lamp, I did not notice anything wrong with the tank being armed by the support on the left side. Don't know how that screw could become that loose.

hmmm..... you probably meant EVERYBODY participating to this forum, right??? right!! Indeed, it occurred to me the left cylinder position could also have something to do with it, and I was wondering about neoprene to protect the tank, or a spacer to tip it up. Now, tipping up the tank may have some hidden consequences too...

I agree on more spin needed. Which makes it easier to pin point TDC, even if it requires more spinning. Agreed also on being around the mark. I used both rockers play, and piston TDC both sides. Adjust the gap, did one complete cycle and verified.