
audiomick
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Posts posted by audiomick
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Regarding KiwiRoy's advice: a resistor in parallel to the LED will do the job as well. Just don't ask me what the resistance needs to be. It should be possible to calculate the value on the basis of the wattage of the bulb and the 12V nomimal voltage.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance_and_conductance
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2 hours ago, p6x said:
However, I have not yet managed to communicate with the interface because you need to assign and open a port. I should believe the software does it, but Apple has probably built a protection to prevent it when the software is not approved by them.
In case it is of any use, here is what Bernd wrote on the german forum:
QuoteInfos zu Mac OS X
Die ZIP-Datei irgendwo entpacken und die App starten.
Das sollte es gewesen sein.
Da ich leider kein Mac User bin, kann ich nicht viel mehr dazu sagen.
Mittlerweile laufen die Programme ohne das der Finder abstürzt.
Die Verbindungen kommen zustande und bei GuzziDiag kann an die Werte ablesen.
Auch der Software Up- und Download bei den 15x funktioniert.
Trotzdem ist noch kein 100% Zustand erreicht, aber ich arbeite daran.
Neue unschöne Infos zum Mac:
In einem anderen Forum hat ein Benutzer sich näher mit der Apple-Version und neueren OS X Versionen beschäftigt.
Er entdeckte, das Apple seit OS 10.8 eigene USB Treiber für den FTDI chip benutzt die originalen würden so erstmal nicht mehr funktionieren.
(Kann ich nicht ganz nachvollziehen, weil in meinem Emulator läuft es unter 10.8 und 10.9)
Aber als Lösung benutzt er ein kleines Programm mit welchem man den Apple-Treiber deaktivieren kann.
http://www.enttec.com/support-center/kb/article/108-OS_X_Mavericks_%2810.9%29_-_IMPORTANTEdit: the link leads to somewher that doesn't look useful. See the EDIT at the end of this post.
Das Programm mus währen der Benutzung von GuzziDiag laufen und der Apple-Treiber deaktiviert sein, dann gebe es keine Probleme.
(Ich nehme mal an, wenn man vorher die FTDI Treiber auch schonmal installiert hat)
Leider bewege ich mich da auf ganz dünnem Eis und kann dazu weder etwas positives noch negatives sagen.
The result of a DeepL translation (slightly improved by me):
Info regarding Mac OS X
Unzip the ZIP file somewhere and start the app.
That should be it.
Since I'm not a Mac user, I can't say much more about it.
I've reached a point where the programmes run without the Finder crashing.
The connections are established and the values can be read from GuzziDiag.
The software up- and download for the 15x also works.
Nevertheless, I haven't reached 100% yet, but I'm working on it.New unpleasant information about the Mac:
In another forum, a user took a closer look at the Apple version and newer OS X versions.
He discovered that since OS 10.8 Apple uses its own USB drivers for the FTDI chip, so the original ones won't work anymore.
(I can't quite understand this, because in my emulator it works under 10.8 and 10.9).
But as a solution he uses a small program with which you can deactivate the Apple driver.http://www.enttec.com/support-center/kb/article/108-OS_X_Mavericks_(10.9)_-_IMPORTANT
Edit: the link leads to somewher that doesn't look useful. See the EDIT at the end of this post.
The program has to be running while using GuzziDiag and the Apple driver has to be deactivated, then there are no problems.
(I assume, if you have installed the FTDI drivers before).Unfortunately, I'm on very thin ice here and can't say anything positive or negative about it.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
To put it all into perspective: Bernd doesn't own a Mac, so his testing possibilities are a bit limited.
On top of that, he doesn't even own a Guzzi for which Guzzidiag is applicable. His Guzzi is a Le Mans 850. Given that, all credit to the man that the programme even exists.
EDIT: the link in Bernd's text leads to an australian manufacturer of LED lighting systems. The relevance is, they us DMX (common lighting control system. Look it up if you're curious) to control their systems, and reading their site indicates that the interface they use has an FDTi chip.
I think, but am not sure, that the article that the link was supposed to lead to was probably this:
reading that and extrapolating might help solve problems, I think. Perhaps.
I'm going to send that to Bernd, because the link in his text in the german forum is not that useful. If he responds with anything positive, I'll pass it on.
ANOTHER EDIT: the post in which that text was found was last edited in May, 2022.
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12 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:
I did recently install LEDS...the light doesn't work though...
I don't know enough about the circuit or the sensor to guess, but could it be that it needs the resistance of a conventional light globe to work properly?
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We're talking about the screws in the holes in the intake manifold where the vacuum gauges get connected to syncronise the throttle bodies, right?
At that position on various motorcycles I have only ever seen an aluminium sealing washer. That's what I would put in there.
Edit: no, wait. I changed those on my V35 Imola a couple of months ago. The originals were aluminium. The workshop gave me copper washers instead, because that is what the had in stock. They also work fine. The point is, it needs to be a sealing washer, not just a plain steel one.
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24 minutes ago, docc said:
Still, hard to believe the main seals are nowhere to be found separately . . .
Makes perfect sense from a marketing point of view: the manufacturer makes more profit by only selling the plug complete.
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Yes. They started there, tried this way and that, and ended up back at -20.
The important bit is, I reckon, the "this way and that", i.e. not just set to any particular value, but starting at a value that is known to be fairly good, and varying one way and then the other to find the best value. What they were observing, as mentioned, was the throttle response coming off idle.
The process seemed to me to be analagous to setting the mixture screws on a carb: set them to the value in the Workshop Manual, then screw them in and out to find the best setting, in the case of the carbs the best idle.
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Glad you got it all sorted in the end.
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15 hours ago, guzzler said:
Glad to hear Greenie got sorted out....!
It was basically just a "decent tune up". Karsten (yellow t-shirt and overalls) did all the tinkering, Bernd checked what Guzzidiag can check.
They set the TPS (goal was 160 mV, it ended up at about 158), balanced the throttle bodies, set the CO trim. For the CO, they started at -20 and varied back and forwards in steps of 10 to see how it reacted. The focus was on just off closed throttle, i.e. how snappy it was when the throttle was opened from idle. The final setting was -20.
10 hours ago, docc said:... the guy in the red hat ... standing at attention, saluting. ...
Yeah, it does look like that.
That is Peter, the bloke who owns the Daytona side car rig. I only met him about an hour before that photo. His Daytona got looked at too. Karsten used to have a Centauro, so he knows that motor pretty well.
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3 hours ago, PJPR01 said:
Any more closeup pics of the Guzzi with the sidecar there in the background?
No, I'm afraid not. It is a Le Mans 850, if I remember correctly. I didn't look at it very closely, but it looked very trick.
There was also a Daytona sidecar there. I think it is a shame to bolt a side car on a Daytona, but it was very well done. The owner bought it that way, and he loves it. I think there were about half a dozen side cars there in total.
2 hours ago, p6x said:I did not see any V100 Mandello in the bunch...
There were two V100 Mandello S there, both green. One of them belongs to one of the forum admininstrators. There are about 13 in the forum now, at least last time I looked. Maybe more now. Those who have them are all very pleased with them.
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On 6/4/2023 at 12:49 AM, MartyNZ said:
The relay bases have dovetail grooves to link each base to the next.
So the sockets for the relays are single units that are attached to each other, are they? I had assumed that it was a block.
Are the sockets (bases) hard to get? I would imagine it is a standard part, but a quick search at Wendel didn't yield a part number.
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Certainly worth a try, but I'd be sceptical.
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That is where I was last weekend, on the shores of the Eder Reservoir (Edersee) for the annual rally of the german language forum that I am active in. Cold at night in the tent, but lovely sunny weather during the day. Here are a couple of pictures:
( the GTR 100 on the left is mine. I went to a Guzzi Rally on a Kawasaki, but don't tell anyone...
)
There were two spine frames there, the greenie on the right in the second photo, and a rather pretty 2002 Le Mans in red. The greenie had only fairly recently been bought by its current owner, and had a couple of issues, so it got looked at by the experts (and fixed...).
The friendly looking bloke in the red t-shirt is Bernd, the author of the Guzzidiag programme.
(If anyone should wonder why he is staring into a cardboard box, his laptop is in there. The box is so that he can read the screen in the bright sunlight.)
PS: sorry it is such a shitty photo. Shot from the hip with a telefon in full sunlight, so I couldn't really see how the photo was going to turn out. I'll try harder next time...
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2 minutes ago, docc said:
. . . that slippery slope that goes with
a tire changehaving a closer look at just about anything on the bike . . .Yes, I'm all too familiar with that syndrome...
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On 6/3/2023 at 2:42 AM, docc said:
100 days out to the SSR XIX.
and what maintainance do you have planned in the two weeks before that one?
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What about some red bar end weights?
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=236475
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=510213
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Are those things really 25 years old? They still look modern to me.
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19 hours ago, ScuRoo said:
...Doing Roger for fascism is like doing Sucharit for inciting violence or Zappa for promoting censorship’ 🤣
I just flew over a couple of german articles on the subject.
As background, Germany has, for very understandable reasons, very strict laws about "Volksverhetzung", i.e. "incitement of the people", and wearing or displaying any kind of symbol from the Nazi Party is completely forbidden.
In the german articles it was mentioned that Waters is active in a political group that criticises the politics of the State of Israel.
I have the feeling that he (Waters) might be justified in maintaining that the accusations are a deliberate attempt to discredit him and thereby discredit his political activities. Political interest groups trying to exploit the particularly strict laws in Germany to misinterpret and discredite what is actually satire.
Incidentally, I don't expect the charges to stick. The authorities here must investigate such accusations, and that means an official investigation must be started. They are, however, not stupid, and Water's Lawyers are no doubt very good. We'll see...
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3 hours ago, mikev said:
...might have to borrow my son's Windows computer.
You shouldn't have to do that. Guzzidiag runs on Linux and Mac computers as well.
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2 hours ago, Miro Kacur said:
So in other words, I cannot rely on GuzziDiag mV reading when physically adjusting the TPS ?
Have a look here:
Guzzidiag can't measure the mV at fully closed, because the ECU doesn't deliver a reading for it.
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13 minutes ago, p6x said:
who's never dreamed to do a 1850 miles trip on a QUOTA?
Me.
But each to his own....
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Yeah, I know. It was more like thinking out loud.
So, I went back and had a closer look at the workshop manual here:
https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf
On page 187 there is a diagramme of the fuel system for the models with the external fuel pump. Amongst other things, the text says
QuoteThe fuel pressure in the circuit is kept stable by the
pressure adjustor “4”. This controls the amount of fuel
flowing back into the tank.i.e., the pressure regulator is the last thing on the way back in to the tank.
In the diagramme, it is obvious that the connector to the injectors is a T-joint, i.e. one hose upstream, one downstream, and a hole in the side into the injector. That means, after the filter up to before the regulating valve is a simple open loop. Swapping the hoses output filter <-> input regulator must be completely irrelevant.
On page 538 is a diagramme of the system with the pump in the tank. Once again, an open loop from one connector to the other, and the text on that page is almost identical with the text on page 187.
Page 542 shows the fuel pump. The second photo clearly shows a dark coloured and a light coloured connector, so one red and one white. The first photo shows the fuel pump assembly. There, one can see the connection fuel pump - fuel filter - dark coloured connector. The pressure regulator is marked "C", and can only be on the tank side of the light coloured connector. Therefore, it must be irrelevant which way around the external lines are connected to the tank.
Glad I had a good look at that. You learn something every day.
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Hi Al.
Regarding colours, I'll have to look at mine again. I thought they were both red, but I'm not absolutely sure.
I'm surprised that you say no one has mentioned them breaking here. I've seen that mentioned a number of times in geman language forums. That is why I bought spares...
I'm not sure it it is important which way around they are connected. That would depend on whether the circuit has any valves in it, I guess. I saw on a drawing somewhere that one (the one to the outside, if I remember correctly...) is the feed for the injectors, and the other is the return back to the tank. If the circuit past the injectors is just an open loop, I suppose it wouldn't matter which way around they are connected, but I really don't know.
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1 hour ago, guzziart said:
...So, both tank fittings are the same part number? ... my tank... I think one is red and the other is white.
I believe they are both the same number. Check the parts lists to be sure. If yours are two different colours, I would assume that one has been replaced (the white one...). I gather there is also a Ford item that is white but otherwise identical.
Oil Leak from the Top
in Technical Topics
Posted
The only thing with that is, whether a radiator hose is oil resistant.
On the weekend I finally met my good source of information in person. I spoke with him about exactly that hose. His advice was to buy the expensive one from Wendel
https://wendelmotorraeder.de/oelschlauch-entlueftung-dick_gu30157400-p-1009234.html?ref=expl
in his opinion, it should last a while.
The equivalent from Stein Dinse is probably thisSorry, can't post that link. Stein Dinse appears to be updating their site, and I can't access it.