audiomick
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Posts posted by audiomick
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Thanks docc. I've had that recommended to me as a "must do".
From the same person came the recommendation, while one is messing around in the general area, to put a thickish washer under the tab at the back of the tank. The purpose of this is to provide a little more clearance between the tank and the sidecovers. Apparently there can be contact there, with associated wear and tear on the expensive plastic bits.
I haven't done either of those things yet, but a closer look at the bike confirmed that both would seem to be a good idea.
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4 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
The contact wipers wear the resistor film, and nothing can save or restore that.
Same as the faders and pots on audio equipment. Sooner or later a point is reached where they are just worn out, and must be replaced.
For those wishing to have a go at rejuvenating a tiring TPS, this would be the appropriate Caig product, I believe:
https://caig.com/fader-f-series/
That is, according to the blurb, specifically formulated for exactly that application, i.e. cleaning the contacts in a pot or fader. I would be very reluctant to put the D-series oder G-series contact cleaner in a pot. I'd be afraid it might just eat away the contact strip.
Caig also offers a grease that looks like it should be suitable for the application
https://caig.com/deoxit-grease-landing/
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1 minute ago, docc said:
Worth checking this first!
Yes, that has just jumped to the top of the list. Thanks again.
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30 minutes ago, Tomchri said:
...the breather house, a clean bill of health ? ...
Thanks, Tom. I didn't know that the breather system might be a potential culprit here. I'll have a closer look at that.
Also @docc thanks for the link to that thread on the subject.
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1 hour ago, docc said:
...Seems there have been some expert opinions and experienced outcomes on the looser valve lash . . .
I found a post in the german forum on the subject. Here is (slightly edited) what DeepL made of it:
QuoteThe old cam has such long ramps that, with operating valve clearance of 20 to 25 hundredths, an opening angle of over 400° results.
With all the associated consequences: The valve is only seated in the seat for a very short time, where it can dissipate heat. Over a long period of time, it is only open by approx. 1-2/10 mm in the area of the ramp. This means that hot exhaust gases can additionally heat up the valve and seat.
Increased valve clearance can significantly reduce this effect. Because the ramp is very flat, one tenth more clearance equals 20 or 30° less opening angle. ... In addition, short control angles extend the period during which the engine can effectively compress or work off the combustion pressure.
In practice, I see it like this: The valve should start to open in an area where the ramp is still flat. Then it should immediately change to the steeper rising range, so that the valve is opened quickly. By the way, fast opening also improves filling, because the fresh gas column waits in front of the inlet valve to be allowed in.
With slow opening as with the original old cam, the pressure of the gas column in the inlet is already reduced by the 1-2/10 gap, without a flow coming into operation.
Racing cams have for this reason often almost no ramps. The increased wear is in this case not important, or is accepted.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
The translation is a bit rough, but one can get the gist of it I think. The "old cam" is the one that was used for many years in the big block Guzzis. I don't know if the V11 still used it, but the basic principles of the text still apply.
The text is a quote in a post from someone else than me, i.e. third hand or so. Nevertheless, I know who was being quoted. As far as I know, he studied motor engineering, so he probably knows what he is talking about.
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Getting back to what I wrote here:
On 5/20/2023 at 12:36 AM, audiomick said:After that, I took her out and washed the oil off the sides of the sump at a car wash. A subsequent ride and dusting with talcum powder was supposed to show me where the oil was getting out. Unfortunately there was no positive result. I am now tending to suspect the source of the leak within the clutch housing. Bugger....
I had another look today with my endoscope camera (bought cheap on a whim in an Aldi supermarket, it is amazing how often I use the thing...) through the hole for checking the timing marks on the flywheel. It looks a lot like there is oil in there. I reckon the gearbox needs to come off to have a closer look at things.
I'm trying to see the good side of that: it means I will also be able to have a good look at the bottom end of the shock, grease the shaft drive uni joints, lots of good things. It really is a bit of luck that I have to get in there.
At least that is what I keep telling myself...
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That's one of these:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trabant_601
25 hp. on a good day, if it hasn't been fiddled.
But they go forever....
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20 minutes ago, billgreenman1 said:
There's some kinda weird nostalgia ...that stirs my soul when I see a square (rectangular)-ish headlight!
Yes. Me too.
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23 hours ago, guzzler said:
the risk of spontaneous combustion...
Look at this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery#Safety
The batteries that are sold for automotive use, i.e. also the ones as replacement for lead-acid motorcycle batteries, are all LiFePO4
They can be considered safe. The ones that have made it in to the various media reports because of fires in laptops and aeroplanes and so on were, as far as I know, other types of lithium battery.
I have heard of a couple of instances of a LiFePO4 battery overheating. One in particular was in an SP 1000 Cafe Racer. I've seen the bike; it is a nice custom, but I reckon the bloke was counting the bucks when he did it. I assume the charging system was original, and not renovated. The battery was, I reckon, too small. I believe it was around 4 Ah. . Probably chosen more for price than anything else. Note that the battery overheated and started letting out the magic gray smoke, but did not catch fire.
My theory is, the battery was undersized. It could start the bike, but was fairly discharged as a result. When the bike got running, the battery was pulling heaps of current out of the charging system, and getting warm as a result. Maybe the voltage was a bit high, too. The conclusions I drew from the story were, first, make sure you know what your charging system is delivering, and that it is ok for the lithium battery, and secondly, don't choose a battery that is too small, i.e. not the one that can just manage to turn the starter with no reserves. That way, the battery won't be sucked flat by the start process, and wont be trying to draw as much power to get charged back up.
The theory is based in part on what is written here:
https://www.silent-hektik.de/SH_LiMa.htm
I've got one of those alternators in the V35 Imola (it makes a lovely whirring noise like the blower on the black Ford coupe in the first Mad Max movie...). The battery is still a Gel lead-acid one, but I reckon I'll be putting a lithium battery in there the next time it needs a battery.
This is the first bit of the text under the banner "Technische Details" etc. .
QuoteThanks to the smart IUU characteristic curve, the new controllers can be used both for existing lead batteries and especially for modern ion batteries.
The ion batteries have the advantage of delivering a very high starting current despite small dimensions and low weight.
However, the low internal battery impedance has a major disadvantage when charging: after starting, the battery is empty and well over 20A charging current can flow. The ion battery becomes very hot due to the excessive current, cannot dissipate the heat easily, and damage can occur.
Therefore, the IUU controller precharges the ion battery with 13.2V, which reduces the initial charge current and overheating significantly.
Then it is gently charged further, with the voltage automatically increasing over about 17 minutes to 14.2V.Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) and corrected by me.
So, once again, I'm convinced the LiFePO4 batteries are safe to use, but a little more attention to the charging system is neccesary, and one shouldn't pinch the pennies when choosing the battery. Buy one that is big enough to have a bit of reserve.
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Any idea what the basis was?
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Cool.
Good for Guzzi, I reckon.
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Bowling practise?
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55 minutes ago, p6x said:
cold is still an adverse factor.
For what it is worth, that is not just lithium batteries. Some types deal with it better than others, but all batteries deliver less power when they are cold.
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10 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:
...2000 era California bikes...Ignition barrel and key...
As I recently had cause to be looking for the back part of the ingnition switch myself recently, I got some tips from a couple of people. As far as I know, the ignition lock from a California EV should fit.
@Revilo is the whole lock missing, or just the switch part off the back? What happened to mine was that some one broke the back bit off. If yours was stolen, I could imagine that the same thing happened to yours.
My "informant" told me that lots of Aprilia scooters had Zadi locks/switches from the same series. The trick is to find one with four contacts. I still had the guts of the switch, and only needed the "bucket" that is contained in. That seems to be the same for a whole range of switches.
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1 minute ago, guzzler said:
the NOISE
Those things sounded crazy. All of them, regardless of the engine capacity. Fantastic.
Over the years I did a lot of work for one particular event technology hire company here in Germany. One of the founders rode motorcycles, and had a Kawasaki 750 triple. He managed to claim it on his tax return for a very long time as a "musical instrument".
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You blokes take care you have a great weekend.
Looks like it has started off well.
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Further info:
This one is apparently the same, except that it isn't red:
Since that is an e-bay ad that will probably go defunct one day, the Ford part number is 1072003
And (probably) the same part at Wendel for a "slightly" higher price....
https://wendelmotorraeder.de/anschluss-benzinpumpe-90-weiss_ap8104192-p-3037788.html?ref=expl
Edit: Stein-Dinse apparently has a similarly priced option, and a less expensive one (with a very long delivery time...):
https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=AP8104192
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On 5/19/2023 at 1:24 AM, Speedfrog said:
... better start playing the lottery...
As it happens, I bought a ticket today.
My knees don't creak. Yet. The problems are in the neck (slipped disc...), but if I pay attention to how I sit, I can keep that under control. I reckon I could ride that thing.
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6 hours ago, Tomchri said:
the tire pressure issue, not only my bike then.
No, it's not. Several people have mentioned that on the german forum I'm active in. I gather the front can regularly take a little time to connect. The rear is apparently better, but can also be sluggish.
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18 minutes ago, 4corsa said:
if we can order them from our local Ford Dealer parts department.
Yes, good question for those in the USA. It's a Ford United Kingdom part. Mine came from the UK, too. I think those in North America would have to find a dealer who is willing to play along, or order on the 'net.
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6 hours ago, BallabioJoj said:
what alternatives are available
Wendel has this:
https://wendelmotorraeder.de/batterie-12v-13a_gu01704501-p-1025230.html?ref=expl
Stein Dinse has that one as well, and this:
That is only the result of a search there (I have been looking for my own interest recently...). I haven't tried either of them (yet).
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20 hours ago, footgoose said:
First "real" street bike. .. '69 H1 500
And you're still alive. Well done!!
Ok, I'm just jealous....
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What I did today:
picked up these from the place I ordered them from.
I placed the order based on a tip from a V11 specific german language forum. They look like what I've seen in pictures here and there, and fit the coupling from the fuel lines that I bought as a Guzzi part. Observant readers will be able to glean from the photo where I got them, what the part number there is, and how much I paid for them. Given that they are apparently a little harder to find than hen's teeth, I'm happy.
By the way, they got my name wrong. Somehow Germans never understand me when I say "Michael". Mostly they hear "Marco". "Marcel" is a new one....
After that, I took her out and washed the oil off the sides of the sump at a car wash. A subsequent ride and dusting with talcum powder was supposed to show me where the oil was getting out. Unfortunately there was no positive result. I am now tending to suspect the source of the leak within the clutch housing. Bugger....
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Here is the picture that Revilo put in his post. His link is to a GIMP image. Not everyone has GIMP, so I exported it as a JPEG.
@Revilo bear with it. Best of luck with the restoration.
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What did you do to your V11 today?
in 24/7 V11
Posted
It occurred to me that I should perhaps expand a little on the quoted post. The text came in conjunction with some diagrammes of measurements of a cam that the quoted person had made himself. The text should not be understood as a recommendation to always set more clearance than the manufacturer specifies. The recommendation for greater clearance on the old guzzis is based on measurements and empirical trials on that particular motor.
It seems that the manufacturer struck a compromise very much in favour of low wear and tear on the valve train and quiet running (i.e. very long ramps on the cam to save stress on the pushrods and rockers...). The recommendation for more valve clearance shifts the compromise towards a bit more valve train noise, less thermic stress for the valve seats, somewhat better performance (at least theoretically), and perhaps a little more stress for the valve train.