audiomick
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Posts posted by audiomick
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21 minutes ago, guzzler said:
...in this day and age of gold wings and bloated cruisers it doesn't seem as bad as it was back in the day...
Hang on, a Z 1300 was never bad. I fell in love with it the first time I saw one. That was about 1985.
At the time, the "around Australia" record set by Ross Atkin in 1982 was current
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_records_for_fastest_motorcycle_ride_around_Australia
In the other direction, I was at a motorcycle rally one time, and there was the obligatiory "slow race", i.e. the winner is the last over the line. It was held over about 50 yards in a clearing in the bush. The bloke who won it was on a Z1300. I was impressed. Massively.
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7 hours ago, igor said:
Watching how it's fixed it seems it's just 3 metal pieces going into 3 rubbers with a hole in it .
That's about right. On mine (2002 V11 Le Mans), and I assume the V11s are all the same, the instruments are mounted with three screws that screw in to isolation blocks. You might know them as "silent blocks", i.e. a rubber block that has a threaded shaft on the back to mount it to the frame, and a threaded hole on the front to screw the mounting screw for the instruments in to. The purpose of this method of mounting is to isolate the instruments a bit from the vibrations.
What came loose on yours, the screw at the front, or the nut on the back?
7 hours ago, igor said:Is there a way to fix this and to be sure it wont happen again ?
Is it the rubbers that got old ?
If the rubbers got too old, they might have broken. In that case, replace them and it will be good for a long while. The rubbers being old wont affect the screws. The threaded insert for the screw on the front is metal, and the threaded shaft on the back is also metal.
If the problem was that the nut on the back or the screw on the front came out, the solution is to check that they are tight occasionally. Maybe a bit of Loctite or something similar on the threads, but not the permanent sort.
7 hours ago, igor said:...Now no front brake anymore . Is it easy to fix this ? I guess i have to put back brake fluid and purge the brakes , is it easy to do ?
Tighten up the hose again. Maybe renew the sealing washer on the banjo bolt. Top up the fluid, and bleed the system.
It is not that hard to do, but can be fiddly. Explaining it takes a while. There are lots of videos on Youtube about how to do it. The principle is the same for any vehicle.
However, if you have never done it, get someone to help you and show you how to do it, or take the bike in to a workshop and have them do it. It is not that hard when you know how, but it is your brakes. It wants to be done properly. I was fortunate to have been shown how to do it by a mate of mine who is a trained mechanic. I think trying to figure out how to do it by yourself without informed help is not such a good idea.
PS: in case you don't know the term, " bleed the brakes" means "get the air out of the system".
I checked deepl.com for a translation. The french is "purger les freins", and it offered the alternative translations "purge des freins" and "la purge des freins".
DeepL can't do flemish, but the dutch is "ontlucht de remmen", alternatively "de remmen ontluchten" or "de remmen te ontluchten"
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Spinesaurus Rex: a V11 Le Mans with the motor mods that I would like to make, but will probably never be able to afford.
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Spinisfaction: the feeling afterwards.
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Spineticipation: the feeling that arises shortly after deciding to go for a ride on a spine frame in the near future
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Spinachronism: individual characteristics of a motorcycle that, on a generic motorcycle, may be considered anything from "not quite state of the art" to "downright old-fashioned", but in harmonious combination result in an irresistable appeal.
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I've just been in the garage and pulled the starter motor off. I only got it half way apart, and then realised I had to come back home and read the instructions that @MartyNZ kindly provided properly. Nevertheless, I reckon the starter motor has been replaced at some point. The bracket for the "decorative" cover is held on to the body of the starter with cable ties, which I assume is not original. I'm contemplating leaving that off altogether, far too shiny for me, a little pointless, and in the end only excess weight.
Anyway, up to where I got, it all looks almost new. Sufficient fresh, clean grease on the moving bits, no dirt. I can turn the motor by hand quite easily. If I don't discover magnets without clips inside, I have to assume that it is absolutely ok.
One question: the number on it is DEM D6RA210. It is a Valeo, not a copy. Does anyone know for sure if that is original or not?
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10 hours ago, activpop said:
... that side cover?...
9 hours ago, Martijn851 said:.... maybe still available?
For purely selfish reasons I went off and had a bit of a look.
It seems that both Wendel and Stein Dinse have something on offer.
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=en&h=MG&m=220&t=5367
Perhaps it is worth checking out the "big" Guzzi places in the country you live in. It seems there are still replacements floating around.
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Thanks Marty.
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8 hours ago, p6x said:
Play it loud....
Well adrift from the topic, but while we're on the subject of blokes on silly Kawasakis riding in circles, look at this. The link is set, I think, to start at 5:27. Before that he is just idling through the pits. The bike is a H1R, apparently.
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14 minutes ago, p6x said:
... Kawasaki KZ1300 back in the 80's; you remember? the 6 cylinder water cooled shaft driven...
Yes. Very pretty. I still want one.
Some interesting photos here (sorry it is on facebook...):
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=590441511059419&set=gary-thomas-at-bathurst-1979
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I was at "my" mechanic's workshop the other day with the V11 Le Mans. She obliged by showing her party trick with the starter button in his presence. He reckoned that it is most likely the starter motor itself, i.e. it is probably full of crud which prevents it from making the necessary contact in the starter motor solenoid.
He started to talk about cleaning it out, but very quickly suggested simply buying a new one. I have also seen a few comments here that suggest just replacing the starter motor rather than buggerising around trying to fix an old one. I am fully aware that it is not hard to find a cheap replacement that possibly came off the same production line as the Valeo starter motor, but just doesn't have "Valeo" written on it, but rather some other manufacturer.
Nevertheless, I'm curious about what the insides look like, and cleaning out the existing one would be cheaper if it can be saved. So...
how hard is it to pull the starter motor apart? Is there anything in there that is likely to go "boing" and dissapear into the darkest corner of the garage? Is it easy to put back together? Is there any mystical black magic knowlege necessary to get it apart, cleaned and back together such that it still works afterwards?
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Yes. As I mentioned further up, that is the plan of the moment.
In fact I was in the garage today, and all set to try out the procedure with pumping the tank empty using Guzzidiag to activate the pump. I have the connectors and some fuel line to plug onto the fuel pump. For anyone who doesn't know: unplug the power to the fuel pump and start the bike. Let it run until it runs out fuel. There is then no more pressure in the fuel lines, and they are easy to disconnect. Pull the fuel lines off, and plug on a bit of fuel line with a connector, start Guzzidiag and activate the fuel pump to empty the tank. Catch the fuel in a fuel canister. It was expensive to buy, and makes a mess on the garage floor.
Problem was, the laptop that I have prepared for Guzzidiag exploits froze up when I started it in the garage. I think it probably tried to run an update when I started it. Whatever, it didn't react to the touchpad, and I had to force a shutdown. When I started it later at home, everything worked. I hate Windows.
Having failed to achieve that, I greased the sidestand to make myself feel better, and poked around and looked at few things. I'm even more convinced now that the oil leak is coming out of the breather hose. All very oily there.
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1 hour ago, LaGrasta said:
Honda CTX1300...
1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:Far too much bike for most of us (well me at least) to want to ride on a daily basis,...
Yeah, for me too. I still have my Kawasaki 1000 GTR. Great bike, actually, but very heavy. It's up for sale soon.
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14 minutes ago, docc said:
pretty sure ABS.
Yes, I think so too, without being 100% sure.
One way to find out is to burn a shaving of the material. Doesn't need to be much. ABS burns with a yellow flame, and makes lots of black smoke. The other indicator is the noise it makes when it is dropped or hit. ABS makes a fairly clear clattering noise, almost bell-like.
I don't know if there are any in english, but I have found a couple of videos in german on Youtube (from nerds, mostly...) about identifying the various plastics.
ABS can be welded with a hot-air gun. I made a succesful attempt on a V35 Imola fairing. I got the ABS "welding rods" from a local hardware store. The hot-air gun needs a nozzle to concentrate the air stream. The one I have has about a 1/2" opening, and allows one to "focus" on the spot to be heated. One should open the crack to a Vee shape with a miniature grinding wheel before welding.
My result looked fairly messy. Ideally, one would practice on something else before attempting the real thing. Nevertheless, I was able to smooth it off adequately on the outside to have it painted, and it held until the fairing was finally destroyed when the bike fell off the side stand. Again. The current fairing on that bike is the third one I've had...
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Ok, got it. This one:
https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=30157400
As a matter of interest, would it be feasible to replace that with a piece of plain tubing, or are the pre-formed bends in the hose "absolutely necessary"?
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Thanks, Tom.
I'm planning to take the tank off again in the next week or so. I'll have a good look then.
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not one of Guzzi's better moments, but it seems to not really be a huge issue. Just untidy.
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Why have the cylinders on so many of those bikes sagged so much?
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hey, docc, we just don't want things to get boring for you.
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1 minute ago, docc said:
...the interconnector seal?...
Sorry, no idea if those are available individually.
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10 hours ago, cowtownchemist said:
...the (Caig) fader series.... I will start using this on my vintage audio restoration projects!
Good plan, I think. The German supplier I got the Caig products that I bought recently from is called "the Tube Amp Doctor". 'nuff said, I reckon.
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Try searching "AMP Superseal".
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22 hours ago, docc said:
...the rear breather hose connection...
I was in my garage briefly today, and had a look. I saw a hose, about half an inch thick, that goes in to the crankcase vertically just in front of the end of the crankcase before the clutch bell housing starts. Very, very oily. I think we're on the right track.
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dashboard loose
in Technical Topics
Posted
Good, just replace them (the rubber blocks). They'll then probably hold another twenty years. You're right in your assessment: the thread inserts in the front of the block have pulled out and are on the screws that hold the dashboard.
As far as Loctite goes, I wouldn't bother. Thinking about it, though, I believe mine has Nylock (or similar, i.e. self-locking) nuts on the back end of the isolation block. That makes sense, and is very easy to do if the nuts on there aren't self-locking.