pasotibbs
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Posts posted by pasotibbs
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I would swear that Ducati part is the exact same CEV part that is on my Sport . . . no?
They look identical but as well as being much better made the Ducati part has a slight curve to the main assembly(and thus lens) but the Guzzi one is straight.
you can see the curve on the picture here (the chrome bit is concave left to right not top to bottom) its not a lot but it means the Guzzi lens won't sit flush if fitted.
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sssmashing. The contacts are buggered on mine so sometimes I'm invisible at night!
Ninja style!Tail light from old Ducati Monster fits and looks stock but is much better quality.
The unit is slightly curved at the mounting so lenses can't be swapped but any aftermarket Monster LED replacement should also fit.
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Currently enjoying Laphroaig Quarter Cask and Glenmorangie (10yr old)
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Although the discs appear true(not warped) they may not be "floating" correctly, even though you've cleaned the bobbins the discs may be stuck slightly off centre in relation to the spindle so the pads are running on and off the normal swept area of the discs ?
I had the same issue and "cured" it by replacing the discs with some used Ducati ones,I was able to get the old discs cleaner off the bike but have never got around to testing them.
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Can someone tell me how to adjust the pinion gear retaining nut in the bevel drive? also do I need special MG tools? And how much torque should be applied? Guzziolgy explains titening may be enough to bring end play back into tolearance. I don't see the special holding tool listed online.
See here (post 23) for the parts you'll need and here for the guide.
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Hello All,
I am slowly getting my new to me '04 V11 nudie in running order. My work shop manual hasn't arrived as of yet and I'd like to put my front end back together. Could someone please give me the torque specs. for the triple clamps, axle, pinch bolts etc. for this bike. I realize that the fasteners have specs based on size I just want to make sure that there isn't something I'm missing in regards to trees or fork tubes before I go and screw something up. Thanks if you can help.
Rich
triple clamps appear to be 0.8 to 1.2 Kgm (which I believe is 8-12Nm)
Wheel Spindle is 90 to 100Nm
I found these in 2 different places so may be best to wait for others to confirm
Standard values are quoted as
4mm nuts/bolts 3-3.5Nm
5x0.8 nuts/bolts 6-7Nm
6x1 nuts/bolts 8-12Nm
8x1.25 nuts/bolts 25-30Nm
10x1.5 nuts/bolts 45-50
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I suspect that the rear brake pads would wear out very quickly !!
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Go to amazon.co.uk and look at the reviews for "veet for men"
funniest thing I've read in ages
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Just a thought but if the noise is regular it could be an alarm in "service" mode with a damaged sounder or failing internal battery if the power has been disconnected ?
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I have a 2001 V11 sport.
It would appear that my starter is intermittent.
It used to happen rarely, but this week, it's getting very annoying.
I put the key in and turn.
Then I press the emergency cut off switch (I always stop the engine with the emergency switch)
I hear the fuel pump prime, the headlight and instruments turn on.
I pull the clutch, press the start button... and nothing...
I've swapped the relays, made sure the battery connection is tight. No change.
But the thing is, it's intermittent!
Sometimes, it starts right up.
Sometimes, it's dead, then I'll turn the key a couple times, and the starter will turn on the second or third try.
Yesterday it must have taken 10 minutes and trying again and again...till it finally came to life.
This morning... started right up.
I don't even know where to start, but I'm scared that that one time when I'm 400 miles from home, out in the middle of nowhere... it just won't start no matter what.
It's probably the solenoid,but could be the clutch switch.
Mine also has done this but not as bad,usually starting on the 3rd or 4th attempt (I used to hold the starter button in and work the clutch until it started) recently I added another relay to feed the solenoid direct from the battery (to take the load off the alarms immobiliser relay) and it's worked every time so far !!
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Thanks for the info. I've tried heat, along with hammering a larger size star drive into the rounded heads. No luck. Maybe I didn't heat it long enough, but I was worried about getting the rubber bits too hot or ruining the wheel. Unfortunately I don't have access to any impact tools. Same goes for the front rotors which have to be replaced due to warping. Those wouldn't budge either. Before rounding them I decided to stop. Off to the dealer I go. They said they could take care of the stubborn fasteners when changing the tires & rotors.
I removed my disc bolts by drilling the hole 5mm or so deeper (I used whatever size drill fits without rounding off the flats) and hammering the allen key bit into it, it worked for all the bolts.
The same method may work for the cush drive cover bolts.
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96 carb sport.
Quite surprised there is so few choices on such a bike. May try to fit a ignition from another bike that is 90 degree v twin. the vaccum advance is the real problem. few choices outside of the stock setup. On wildguzzi there are several discussions on the digiplex. no one discussed the rev limiter side. just various timing curves of various bikes. even that is some what vague. only a couple of charts with resistance values.
I subscribe to cycleworld mag and I thing this would be a good question for their expert.
Cliff does/was doing an ignition module for non EFI bikes called "Rec-Ignition Module",it took a bit of finding but it is mentioned on his site under Latest Developments (18th June 2005).
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After having the paint separate from my fuel tank on my V11 LeMans's plastic fuel tank and replacing it with another used (but not yet gas soaked) tank, I am hoping to use a sealant/liner product in the replacement to avoid future problems.
Does anyone have any experience with this process? I have checked into the "Kreem" website and it is recommended for use in used/older tanks but am wondering about the "plastic-ness" of the Guzzi tank and its chemical compatibility with this product. Are there better products for our tank's chemistry? Is there anything specifically available? Does Kreem work for us?
As always, all thinking is welcomed.
Maybe this will work ?
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I managed to break one of the brass intake manifold nipples a while back.
I installed an M6 screw to plug the hole but eventually I will probably want to balance my throttle bodies again so it would be nice to find a replacement. It doesn't have a part number in the Guzzi parts manual so I can't order one from a dealer. Does anyone have an extra that they'd be willing to part with?
I got these , just had to use a normal washer and cut a screwdriver slot into the end to allow me to tighten them (the nylon type may be better ?).
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It seems that in the UK only 1 drain has a pipe attached ,mine did and I'm sure others here have mentioned this before.
One drain is the tank breather(inside the filler seal) the other is for rainwater/spilt fuel(the well outside the seal), it may be that the hose is on the wrong one?
I made a Y joint so that both can drain safely to the bottom of the bike rather than run another hose as it means I can leave the Y attached to the tank and just deal with the one hose when removing/replacing the tank.
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Years ago my one armed mate had the clutch lever positioned below the front brake lever. He managed everything well. Not sure how he worked the clutch and front brake together though the clutch and throttle was no problem to manipulate.
There must be loads of peopple in the same position, so there's bound to be a solution
Maybe a foot clutch and electronic shifter would work?
Lots of advice/ideas here
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My ITI odometer gears stripped out and I can't find any way of repairing it. I would like to keep the bike somewhat saleable, which means replacing with a bike speedo won't cut it. The plan is to use VDO 80mm Speedo and Tach. The instruments should fit in the gauge cluster without too much persuasion. The trick will be to interface a hall effect drive to the bike. The first attempt will be a GM Hall effect drive available from many places. In this case eBay $20 shipped.
The first problem is to adapt the threads. The GM sender is a female 7/8-18" thread, which is very unusual. Luckily I have a lathe and a modicum of machining skill, so I will machine an adapter. The bigger problem will be fitting the sender and associated wiring beneath the throttle linkage. There is very little room as this picture shows:
When the throttle is wide open the fitting only clears the top of the sender by 1mm or so. Once I have the adapter machined I will cut down the skirt around the connector pins and solder leads directly. This will allow me to increase the clearance by 10mm which should be plenty. I will put a weather pack connector closer to the meter to allow for disconnection later.
This has been done on a different model of Guzzi, and was documented here. Luckily for him his speedo drive was further aft and only interfered with non-moving parts.
I think somebody here got around this problem by having a short drive cable made so that the sender could be positioned out of harms way,but your way could be better.
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I am literally in the process of buying a 09 Dorsoduro 750 with 7k on the clock upgraded rear shock and front springs/oil, billet levers and covers, a gel seat and akropovic exhaust installed. $6750 but it's in florida and shipping is $450
Hey, at least BFG might find it interesting. I have ridiculous bike ADD when I'm in the market for one. I wouldn't go as far as to say I hated my Duc ST2, what's a stonger word than hate? wouldn't start in the cold, wouldn't want to even cruise in the cold, didn't like the heat, didn't like to stay charged, was a walloy pig at slow speeds and the fairings(and ergo's) even with a laminar lip were no better than the RSVR I had. I got LESS wet in the rain on the RSVR. So I dumped 1k into it and put on 2k miles over a year, I've done worse. I was able to sell it for what I paid for it less the few upgrades and new starter
I will post up some pics when I get it and I've already told myself the next bike needs to be a griso(newer and less problems than BFG's though) I wonder if BFG knew my mom 30 years ago. . .
Just as well you got rid of the Ducati. the engines really are just a pile of shite! I borrowed an ST2 in New Zealand last February, nice handling, fairly comfortable, but after a $1000 tuneup, I was told that the belts could not be changed, the covers couldn't be removed as the nuts inside the plastic were spinning. So after being told to nurse it for next 3 weeks, running 3500-6500rpm, the engine literally physically exploded, yes, the engine cases blew apart!!!! in the middle of nowhere!
Never, NEVER will I EVER buy a belt drive Ducati EVER!!!
BTW, the Aprilia will be a great bike, well done.
Steve
To be fair to Ducati's any badly maintained belt drive engine is going to let go in a big way eventually !!
It sounds like that particular ST had been seriously mistreated, as the ST2 is basically a 2 valve 851/888 motor it is pretty tough and if maintained correctly reliable.
Yes, maintaning a machine is important. In this case, the belts did not fail. I was pampering the bike because they could not be changed at the time. actually, there was a catastrophic gearbox failure that blew the engine cases apart, the bike was singing along at 110km in 6th, go figure.
Although the belts didn't fail the fact that the covers could not be removed would seem to indicate that the 2yr belt change had been missed (maybe several times !!) and probably oil changes also,which could explain why the gearbox let go.
I went to NZ in January so know what you mean about the "middle of nowhere" !!
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I am literally in the process of buying a 09 Dorsoduro 750 with 7k on the clock upgraded rear shock and front springs/oil, billet levers and covers, a gel seat and akropovic exhaust installed. $6750 but it's in florida and shipping is $450
Hey, at least BFG might find it interesting. I have ridiculous bike ADD when I'm in the market for one. I wouldn't go as far as to say I hated my Duc ST2, what's a stonger word than hate? wouldn't start in the cold, wouldn't want to even cruise in the cold, didn't like the heat, didn't like to stay charged, was a walloy pig at slow speeds and the fairings(and ergo's) even with a laminar lip were no better than the RSVR I had. I got LESS wet in the rain on the RSVR. So I dumped 1k into it and put on 2k miles over a year, I've done worse. I was able to sell it for what I paid for it less the few upgrades and new starter
I will post up some pics when I get it and I've already told myself the next bike needs to be a griso(newer and less problems than BFG's though) I wonder if BFG knew my mom 30 years ago. . .
Just as well you got rid of the Ducati. the engines really are just a pile of shite! I borrowed an ST2 in New Zealand last February, nice handling, fairly comfortable, but after a $1000 tuneup, I was told that the belts could not be changed, the covers couldn't be removed as the nuts inside the plastic were spinning. So after being told to nurse it for next 3 weeks, running 3500-6500rpm, the engine literally physically exploded, yes, the engine cases blew apart!!!! in the middle of nowhere!
Never, NEVER will I EVER buy a belt drive Ducati EVER!!!
BTW, the Aprilia will be a great bike, well done.
Steve
To be fair to Ducati's any badly maintained belt drive engine is going to let go in a big way eventually !!
It sounds like that particular ST had been seriously mistreated, as the ST2 is basically a 2 valve 851/888 motor it is pretty tough and if maintained correctly reliable.
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I think I can see some issues already.
Running closed loop will not improve the map. Only the Optimiser in Autotune will do that.
If you are running closed loop, the potentiometer will have no effect. Closed loop means follow the o2 sensor to the in spite of what other things may be saying. In open loop the potentiometer will allow corrections.
Sorry I used the wrong terms, we used the autotune as that is what I normally do but he said nothing was changing (maybe because it was already on target ?)so I changed the ECU switch to open loop and tried to get him to adjust the AFR manually but he couldn't get that to work properly so I took over the opimiser controls and tried but although the value changed the AFR stayed the same.
As I couldn't work out what was happening I switched to the laptop which I now know that had issues of its own so was doomed to failure !!
If I'd taken the other laptop the day may have been saved but I didn't.
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I often have guys wanting to rush off to the dyno as soon as they get their MyECU. I try and discourage it.
There's a couple of things I try and point out.
1) Don't go to the dyno until you're familiar with the way MyECU works.
2) Go through a couple of map iterations of your own first.
2) Don't expect the dyno operator to do it for you. Its rare that they would have any interest in learning anything different. Even if they did don't expect them to pick it in a few hours.
68C, my recommendation would be to spend the money on an LC1 and not worry about the dyno yet if at all.
If you do go to a dyno soon I recommend to keep it simple and short. Don't worry about the inertial types. Just get a couple of runs from low revs to red line at a few throttle values, 1/4 1/2 3/4 full when running open loop and then go home with the graphs and make the changes offline.
pasotibbs, unless we've been corresponding via email, it was 11 months ago that you seemed to be set on the right foot with closed loop and the Optimiser. I would have expected you to have your map nailed by now or at least posted something about the issues you were having.
Cliff
I thought everything was going ok , running closed loop had improved the map and the bike was running better.
The idea of the Dyno run was to hopefully get to the areas of map I'd missed but it just went from bad to worse!
The optimiser and closed loop should have worked but I'll put that down to user error, my targets being wrong or the LC1 settings being incorrect (which I'll check first) as he held MON for 5 seconds but the AFR didn't change (I should probably have stuck with this and altered the targets to see what happened but decided to go open loop and adjust manually.
The optimiser issue was weird,but as I run closed loop I've never tried altering the mixture anywhere other than idle so couldn't find the solution, it would appear to work for a couple of cells but then turning the variable resistor would change the value on the screen but the AFR stayed the same on the Dyno's readout.( I had the same issue when I gave up with the optimiser and used the laptop instead,I will have to investigate further but it appears that my laptop has taken a dislike to the controller software as it closes the program when I try to save a map to file which was the last straw (worked fine on another laptop when I got home and of course I had the choice to take either that morning...if only!!).
I'll let you know if I find out what happened but hopefully just checking the LC1 is working ok and changing some targets may put me back on track ?
Dave
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My bike is going on a Dyno next Tuesday, I've realized it's the only way I'll ever get my map sorted....hopefully anyway
Didn't go well on the dyno!
The dyno guy was used to PC's and couldn't get the Autotune on Myecu to work so we went open loop and tried to set the mixture manually with the optimiser but that wouldn't work properly either,he altered the mixture but the bike ran exactly the same !!
I connected the laptop and tried to change the settings but that would appear to work for a couple of cells then suddenly stop working and the software shut down before I had saved the changes.
I have no idea what was going on but the end result was after 4 hours and £120 I am no closer to good AFR than before but know that my current map is way off , rich below 5000rpm and lean above!!
Probably something really simple that I'm missing but at the moment it's really tempting to give up and put the stock x-over,exhausts and ECU back on !!
I'm going to leave it for a few days until my mood improves !!
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I recently purchased a used crossover and thought about cutting it open and reworking it . Has anyone done this and is it going to improve performance.
It has been attempted in the past. The stock, under-tranny x-over is more a "pre-muffler" than a true cross-over: the volume is just too dang large, so all the exhaust gases come chonkin' down the headers at high speed, hit that big open space & come to a halt, then meander down the extremely restrictive stock mufflers based upon the higher pressure in the pre-muffler bit & pressure pulses from the exhaust hammering those stagnant gases further down stream. [Yes, this is a bit of hyperbole, but play along for a bit, it gets better.
]If you open the stock x-over & pull out the central metal sponge space filler, you make the description above even more accurate, spoiling performance. Dyno tests have shown that the Stucchi x-over [which is designed to be a true x-over] has a slight improvement in the low-rpm hole in the power band, and also a slight improvement in top end power, with a raspier exhaust note.
The Mycroft Holmes [sorry, forget the name, but it's the other big alt. to the Stucchi, and starts w/ an "M"] x-over has almost no actual gas x-fer, & is more of a balance pipe [meaning sonic & pressure sharing, but no real joining of flow], does a better job of filling in the low-rpm hole but loses power on top in comparison to the stocker.
Ultimately, it has been clearly demonstrated that:
1) Dr. John did a very good job of coming up with a much more cosmetically appealing, but still quite adequate performing, alternative to the old "colostomy bag" x-over on the mid-90s Spot, Sporti & Daytona x-over.
2) If you want all out power or a more threatening exhaust note, you buy the Stucchi.
3) If you want to fit a centerstand or a more compliant throttle in traffic or just noodling around, you get the Myocardial infarction x-over [still haven't remembered the correct name...
]4) It is ultimately pointless to mess around with the stock exhaust parts when pursuing performance enhancement: they were just designed too dang well upon European "don't mess with city hall" principles.
Ride on!
Mistral
see Greg Field's review here
Insurance
in 24/7 V11
Posted
What companies are UK Lemans owners using?
None so far list the Lemans as a model (only the Sport)so can't quote !!
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