pasotibbs
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Posts posted by pasotibbs
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fender extender as stated previously triumph item piece of piss to fit see attatched photos
Looks like mine does(apart from the carbon
) there may be better fitting extenders available but if care is taken then the Triumph fit can be very close. 
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Damn, I just ordered one last week, no cancelations allowed, special order - back to the drawing board ! Anyone want to buy a brand new Triumph extender ?
I fitted the Triumph one, it isn't a perfect fit but its very close.I used some small mushroom headed allen caps instead of the plastic rivets supplied,I'll take some pics and post them if I remember when I get home
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I think I would try another brand at this point.
So far I have been unable to find an alternative that will keep the Gen warning light.I put the last failure down to bad luck as I'm sure others here have used this product with no issues but after the second failed in exactly the same way.....
It may be that the "improved design" resolves the issue, we will see !!
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how do you get that potting material out? then you can fix it right? I have a stock reg that I'd like to try that with.
A heat gun softens the compound and it is then possible to remove it bit by bit while it is still hot,but once it cools it becomes solid again.
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I'm now on my 4th Electrex World Reg/Rec !!!
The first failed after a few months (Gen light on, not charging) and was replaced under warranty,the second was outside warranty but luckily the third was within.The reason for this post is that the second and third have both failed in exactly the same way and when I contacted EW and described the fault they informed me that my replacement would be "an improved design", the replacment does appear externally slightly different but time will tell !!!
The last two units have both shorted out (the body of the unit has become battery +ve) but luckily I ignored the installation instructions and fused the Battery +ve so possibly prevented a loom fire !!!
The last one actually totally discharged my battery (it hasn't recovered, so has had to be replaced)but didn't blow the fuse the first blew the fuse.
I removed the potting compound from the Reg/Rec this afternoon and as I suspected the problem is exactly the same as last time with a short between the +ve part of the board and the body(it's only approx .5mm clearance) with evidence of scorching visible in 2 or 3 areas and when these areas where cleaned the short was cured.
I suspect water may get in between the potting and the unit body and the corrosion eventually leads to a short but I'm open to other ideas, the redesign implies that it may possibly be a known issue ?
just a heads up for anyone who has one of thes units
Dave
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Thank you, Greg.,
Thats what I wanted-a clear straight, no nonsense answer that even I can understand, and I'am not even going to drag things out by asking why?
I shall follow where you lead,
a Sheep forever,
Andy Roo.
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Yes, good point, I mentioned that in my attachment,
without the extra load the LED is on all the time.
I just used one of the old lamps since I didn't have a suitable resistor handy, besides the lamp has another advantage, low resistance when cold giving a higher voltage to the thermistor thus making it more sensitive.
Mine works great, starts by intermittent operation on braking then full on well before running out, nice and bright too.
Roy
Good, I didn't realize that the LED stayed on so thought I'd best mention it just in case....
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Yes they are very hard to pull out that way because the lamp supports the rubber boot. I pulled mine from the front.
If you take the cover of the light slide a piece of tubing e.g. heat shrink over the lamp you can grip it with needle nosed pliers.
I replaced all my lamps with LEDs . The lamp-holders leave a lot to be desired, some lamps have a double sided
contact that causes a short circuit when they are inserted (see attached) because of this I soldered them in place.
Alternately you could order new lamp bases and glue them in place.
They look brighter than the original, I am very pleased with them.
Because LEDs have a very narrow light wavelength you must chose a lamp the same colour as the lens.
Roy
Just in case you haven't realized yet, the low fuel light needs to draw enough current for the thyrister in the tank to heat up when not covered by fuel.If I understand correctly an LED will not draw enough current to work but I imagine a resistor could be added to fix this ?
I just thought I'd mention it and save you a long push to the filling station
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Tim
The inter-moto oil pressure switch, part number 50570 is the same switching pressure as the Guzzi one but has a spade type connector.
Readily available in all good moto-factors (hopefully)
wits
Thanks for that,that's the one I used last time, it looks like its for a 1990 BMW 320 if you car spares shop can't look up part numbers.If I remember correctly I went through the parts book at my local car spares shop until I found the correct thread size and switch pressure but could not remember the details (I think I kept the box somewhere and was going to hunt for it) but now I can get one on my way home tonight
edit I've just checked and the box I had kept has part number 50720, so this may be the correct one.
edit of the edit !!! 50720 is no longer available but 50570 is, the spec looks similar so should be ok.
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update
thanks for the advice so far - I tried earthing the wire to the indcator light and sure enough it lit up nice & bright so suspect oil pressure switch is at fault (can't undertake switch test recommeded in manual as I don't have the right equipment). i'll order a new one and report back when fitted
Tim
The oil pressure switches are prone to failure as they hate water(it gets in past the connector)so if you ride in the wet they don't last, I've just killed mine again just by washing the bike,not jet washed, just a bucket and sponge !!(to be fair it wasn't a genuine part)
There is a BMW switch that fits, it switches at the same pressure but has a spade not bullet connector, I can't remember the model.
My Ducati used to have the same problem, riding in the rain for more than a couple of hours would usually result in the light coming on dim and eventually the switch would fail.Ducati have a modified switch with a waterproof connector(stolen from a Fiat or Alfa no doubt) that can be retro fitted so hopefully it should be fixed, the Guzzi uses a different thread so this switch can't be used
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Hi there,
I am a very recent Guzzi owner, with a 2004 Le Mans in red and silver
.Only had it a couple of days, but have come straight from a 2005 Fireblade.
Must admit that I am noticing a few subtle differences. However, previous bikes I have had include a 1100GS, F800S, Triumph T595, ZX6 etc, so I am no stranger to odd handling bikes.
My LM has non standard pipes and apparantly a power commander fitter, kicking out 76bhp at the rear wheel. The fireblade had 150+bhp.
I have spent a while now searching through threads on this excellent forum and have not found what I was looking for.
Suspension seems to be a hot and somewhat debatable topic. I have picked this bike up with 14500 miles on the clock and god knows what suspension settings. I want to put it back to how Guzzi would have had it originally and merely adjust the rear as and when I have a passenger. I have the seperate R and C on the front forks and standard suspension (not Ohlins) on the rear. Where do I start??????
Secondly - Pillions - slightly more comfy for the good lady than the blade and less prone to high speed wheelies - the blade used to lift front under hard accelleration between 85 - 110mph in second - however, she is cramped as hell and keeps sliding into me all the time - bloody engine braking!!!!
Thirdly - running rich as hell??
Lastly - feint battery light on last night with lights on (also without lights on) when I returned frolm a quick thrash - anything to worry me??
Love the forum, very well laid out and looks very professional.
And its free, which is better than the UK Guzzi Owners Club one which is £20 per year!!
Thanks
Phil Rusted
Welcome, you have the same bike as me
as Jaap says it's a 2001 model that must have sat in a showroom for a while as that colour is 2001 and it doesn't have the balance pipe between the header pipes that later bikes had.The common suspension mod is to replace the Sachs shock as its pretty poor and in the UK we've had a few fail on the bottom joint due to corrosion(mine included),check this for cracks!!! (Hagon do a replacement for around £250) and then respring the forks for your weight or have them rebuilt (Maxton around £400)
I managed to get an Ohlins rear shock for mine(big improvment)but haven't done the forks yet.
I got a anti-slip cover for the pillion pad from M&P or MPS(Triboseat £20)that works very well.
I'd remove the PC, set the valve clearances and TPS then see how it runs without it, plenty of people here have PC's so will probably be able to supply you with settings that work if you find that it is required.
Battery light is a common issue (again corrosion due to our weather !!)remove the tank and look for the wires from the Reg/Rec the connections will be corroded. If it still does it then a new Reg/Rec may be required (around £70)
All the info is here
Dave
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Exiting the M1 we rode past the Hillsborough stadium before taking the scenic Rivellin Valley road that if followed the full distance will take you onto the awsome Snake Pass!
We followed it to the Ladybower Dam, before turning off towards Castleton,
I grew up on that side of Sheffield so know it very well, and the A57 to Ladybower is still part of my usual ride out route.The Snake is now a 50 limit
so only worth riding for the view,rather than for fun of it but probably safe to "make progress" in the week rather than at the weekend when the power rangers are out on their R1's etc . -
Howdy folks, need your input on how effective a Lamda sensor... namely an LC-1 in use with My15m ecu is. I know many people disable it in wot mode and idle... appreciate any feedback.... 04v11s
If you post the same question here you may get more responses.
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Howdy folks,
I've ordered My15M for my 2004 Naked and will probably go with a wideband closed loop set up. Where is the best place to put the o2 sensor? I have the stock crossover.
I noticed the two nuts on the interior sides of the headers... how about the balance tube just under the alternator to get both sides?
Also, a few more questions for you experts... the owner that sold me the bike said it has a catalytic converter on it.. it's a California approved model but I doubt it has it. there is no o2 sensor currently. How can I tell? the vin is zguktc0164m111173
Thanks again.
If you get an after market X-over they have a mounting for your sensor, be aware that the sensor can't be too close to the cylinders as it will overheat.
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I may be wrong but I believe the later cans had small Catalytic converters in them ?
If your bike has a lambda sensor in the crossover then I would be inclined to keep the cans stock and maybe buy replacements but you'll find fitting a Mistral crossover will alter the exhaust sound/volume slightly so try this first as you may find that is enough ?
If you mod the airbox lid you'll get a lot more induction noise,if you get another lid you can put it back to stock if its too loud!!
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I've done around 7000 of the nearly 10,000 Km on the bike. I don't think I use the rear brake abnormally and I don't suppose the PO changed the rear pads in the time he had it. So how long does the rear set normally last? silly question I suppose - you can tell me how long that piece of string is as well.
That's probably about average,it is like you say "a piece of string" question, if you use the rear all the time it'll be worn out in no time but if you use it mainly for slow speed stability it'll last a lot longer but ultimately the pads are very small, even when new are not very thick and the V11 is very heavy !!
If I remember correctly the caliper is off a small scooter (50cc?)and its way smaller than the caliper/pads fitted to the rear of my lighter Ducati!!!
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Got it!
As per Raz's suggestion, used a tiny amount of WD40, knocked it from the other side a few times then back to the correct side and it gave after a few choice swearwords. Used brakecleen to clean up.
The pads were completely shot. The front pads though, are fine - I was expecting the reverse wear pattern.
Thanks for your help
(The coffee was crucial)
You'll find that rear pads wear out very quickly even if you use the rear brake normally !!!
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Speaking of the governmemt restricting behavior for the "good of society" you cant even smoke in a bar here in Ohio anymore. Not that I'm a smoker BUT... if they can prevent you from smoking it probably wont stop there, Do they still allow indoor smoking in Europe? I've been watching the news lately and it seems that several of the countries over there are near bankrupt, Greece being the one they talk about most. Its going to be interesting to see what these governments try to take from their citizens in order to avoid insolvency.
Not that america is any better.... we're borrowing money to pay interest on our debt now and piling up more debt at record levels.
Stay tuned... things are about to get very interesting in the next year or two.
In the UK you can't smoke in Pubs or even in a company vehicle (ie works van).
We have a ban on all NHS property so smokers(staff and patients) have to stand on the street.
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that CF dash isn't stock either, at least NOT on that bike AFAIK.
My Red/Grey has a CF dash.
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I see no reason why you could not use multiple inserts. I have done it. As for the jug or head as a guide/jig, I would think that would work if your drill bit is long enough to drill what you need out of the block while sticking out past the head. But the idea scares me unless you have a plan to keep the drill bit from carving up the head (some sort of centering spacer?). Maybe some epoxy on the drill bit to cover any of the drill bit flutes that you don't need (i.e., only have the part needed for drilling into the block and the rest filled in with epoxy). Just keep pulling the bit out if needed to clean the shavings out. I personally have never used an insert for anything more serious then an exhaust stud (I used two in a row). But I have known people to use them for all sorts of important things and I have more faith in a heli-coil then I do in aluminum threads.
Good luck.
I was once told that heli-coils were developed during WW2 because the alloy threads holding Spifire wings on failed in high speed dives
Not sure if its true or not ?
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MotoMecca have Mistrals
I'm sure that others will suggest more.
Have you considered flying via LA as you may have more options/better prices in the US ?
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Hey All,
Been awhile. 2004 V11 here, 12K, Red.
Stock Pipes,
Stucchi Crossover
K & N
Recent TPS adjustment
CO Adjustment
Valve Adjustment
Power Commander -- My last power commander was used on a VStrom 1000 and worked great to improve fueling and mileage. With the V11 no matter how the PC is adjusted, mileage is stuck at 35mpg every tank, also, it makes no difference if the bike is whupped or babied, byway or highway. Anyone with insight on the problem?
Thank you
That works out at 9.2 miles per litre and 42 miles per UK gallon.
I worked out that my Lemans was doing approx 44 MPG (UK) so it may not be far off ?
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Headlight Bulb Change
in Technical Topics
Posted
Sounds like the sidelight/parking light bulb, its probably blown and darkened the glass.