pasotibbs
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Posts posted by pasotibbs
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Thanks guys,
I'll look into getting a puller. Stearing head bearings need to be replaced as well so it would be a good investment.
I am curious to know how you used a dremel to get the bearings out. I've already got dremels, die grinders etc.
Using a grinding head,cut through the inner ring it'll fall apart relatively easy
I use a wooden dowel the size of the bearing to drive it in,
about a half dollar invested for both
As others have said the proper tool is best but I've heard that using a Rawl bolt to grip the inner race and then hitting it from the other side also works and is cheaper !!
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The Sachs shock has 2 main faults, the rod seal fails (letting the oil out)and in wetter climates the shock eye corrodes swells and cracks the alloy, both are most likely due to the short hugger allowing water/dirt do get off the rear wheel onto the shock.The best solution is to extend the hugger or protect the shock and replace the Sachs with another make, the cheapest(a £250 Hagon) is said to be way better than the Sachs and can be built to suit your weight.
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Hi, Motocomiot!
Lot's of good advice so far (and so fast!). It would be first to consider the Relay 2 ("headlight relay"), but if the headlight and horns work, and the regulator is charging above the battery voltage , it more likely the connector from the headlamp shell across the headset and found under the tank. The stud mounts for the tach can loosen and compromise the ground path. They are quite easy to tighten and anchor with a proper epoxy.
Tools may make the man, but a good multi-meter makes the V11 owner!
Here is a simple flow chart that relates the functions to the components:
Hi Docc
You have a great forum here - I seem to have fixed my problem within a few hours so many thanks to all who posted !
I am going to undertake a beefing up as some of the cabling and connectors are horribly fragile . it looks ugly under the tank !....lovely motorcycle though
cheers again
Motocomiot
Well done,glad it was an easy fix !!
Remember to check that rear shock (see here )
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Hi
As I am a Brit I have been patriotically been buying the Hinckley made Triumphs for 15 years and have loved most of them but the Thruxton I have is just too slow I'm afraid soooo......
I just bought a V11 Sport - fantastic - love it - must be 20 years since I rode a 'Guzzi - how did they make the weight disappear ? !Same way Triumph did I guess....
Anyway to get to the point:
The Tacho does not work - (it wobbles the needle to 500 rpm then gives up), Fuel low light, charging light and oil light are also out although the Hi beam, Indicator and Neutral idiot lights are working......I am assuming that at least Oil and Charge would come on with ignition on before starting ? - bulbs are OK by the way and everything else works too including the light in the Tacho itself...
I read a few threads and electrical faults don't seem uncommon but are fairly specific ? - I replaced the 5 Siemens relays opposite the fusebox with Omron ones as a matter of course as I have come across those Siemens things before and don't like the little suckers....
Before I dive in with multimeter between my teeth and snipe nosed pliers in hand........has anyone else had this problem......?
Cheers
Welcome
I'm not sure what the cause of your fault is for sure(it may be more than one) but the UK climate is tough on the wiring connectors under the tank !!
I'd have the tank off and clean up all the connectors you can find and go from there.
The Red/Green wire from the Reg/Rec is prone to corrosion so check for that also as this will stop the battery charging.
Also if you have a Sachs Shock then check the lower mounting as these have been known to crack if exposed to corrosive conditions and its worth extending the hugger to prevent this.
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You guys (and maybe gals) have given some great input and confirmed my thinking. This is once I get any niggles worked out and rework things like the relays the V11 is basically reliable. The biggest concern with long distance trips across the southwest especially out of the way places is lack of dealer support. I suppose a good road side assistance plan is a good back up. About the ST4 versus a V11 Le Mans. IMO the V11 Le mans with it extra weight and "beefer" engine would be better for day after day miles. My ST4 is setup more for corner scratching and after a 200 mile jaunt it goes away for a few day. I bought the BMW R1200ST to fill the gap between the ST4 and my BMW K1200RS and on paper it fits, but is booooooooooooring....thus the V11 Le mans.
Another question...when I am looking for a V11 Le mans are there specific things to look/ask for and things to steer away from? Anyway I can try and eliminate a bike the was built on "a bad day?"
My inclination is buy one, I know I will love the ride, ride it for a while locally and from there should gain confidence to take it on the road.
Cheers! and again thanks for the opinions! great forum, glad I found it!
Try to buy a bike with Ohlins suspension or failing that one with an aftermarket rear shock as the OE Sachs is poor.
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I'm sorry, but while a transverse V twin cylinder engine may not be the perfect engine package it is better then Ducati's L twin package. And look how successful that has been. The pro's and con's of Guzzi engine layout have little to do with the fact that Guzzi has been trying to go out of business since 1921.
That is a much larger issue with causes that predate the transverse V layout.
In this I must disagree. The Guzzi engine forces the rider's weight to the rear, unless you make the bike very tall to get knee clearance over the cylinders. Or, they could dry-sump it and lower the engine. Neither of those would work in the modern marketplace, though.
Also, Guzzi was once a prosperous company. Many things contributed to the decline. Among them are an engine architecture that forced so many compromises on the bikes. No one loves that engine more than I do, but it's time to move on to something better, IMO. Yes, a V-8 might be nice. There are many other options, though.
Good points. There is a lot to be said for what BMW is doing: successfully adding numerous engine configurations, while continuing the boxer heritage with zero diluted affect*...
*not only has the boxer been developed for incredible performance (e.g. HP2 Sport), but BMW could introduce a 30s-50s era-looking boxer bike that could sell madly in a "classic touring" line.
I believe BMW tried to get rid of the boxer when the they brought out the "flying brick" K series bikes but found sales fell so the boxer was brought back ?
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Disclaimer: I'm not very mechanically inclined, so I'm just speaking of what was done by my dealer. I used to have a 2002 LeMans, and it had the same problem that you're having. With no warning it'd just cut off at various speeds, sometimes quite dangerously while on a freeway. I had upgraded the relays, fiddled with the relay base, tried the sidestand switch disconnect, and yet this still kept occurring. One day while on a ride it kept cutting out repeatedly and only restarted when it felt like doing so. With much frustration I rerouted to the dealership and left it there. They replaced the ECU (thankfully under warranty), and after that the problem never happened again. Of course, YMMV.
Oh, crap! Now you're scaring me a bit Mikie as it's outta warranty! Hope pasotibbs story fits my bike $wise! Like Pasotibbs, I jiggled that kill switch a number of times and I kinda got a sense(errant?) that it had more to do with subsequent restarts than anything else I'd wiggled! (stopped near a bush, 'mose well drain me sump!)
I getting a sense that this seems to be a fairly common problem though throughout the V11 years. I was hoping that being one of the "last of the V11's" things would've been a teeny bit sorted than the early examples. Oh, I forgot, it was still made by the same fella's - probably after lunch.
If a cycling the kill switch seems to work I'd say relay or kill switch contacts are likely to be the cause.
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Good man, Roy!
Well, twice it fired right up before I'd come to a complete halt roll-starting, twice started up fine with start button - but the last time I had to do 3 or 4 feeble wiggle and shakes on all wires and switches on bars, under-seat and up/down of sidestand.
Eight or 9 attempts with starter button and sounding as if it would'nt fire thinking of pushing. Hit it again and vroom, it's going again perfectly within half a second turnover as if nothing ever was wrong! Like my missus, come to think of it.
When mine did this turning the kill switch off and on again restarted the engine, I swapped the relays around and the fault did not return on my next ride, so I put switch cleaner in the suspect relays (there is a small hole on the underside)and swapped them back and as yet the fault has not returned.Most faults like this are relays but the side stand, clutch switch and ign switch wiring have all given people here issues.
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So, after cleaning the (original) starter and installing the new battery, charging remained 12.56, Although the cranking voltage was up to 10.9.
With the new regulator grounded to the engine (The other mounting bolt has a ground through the harness back to the battery), she idles at about 13v and charges at 14.25 at anything over 2000 rpm. Woo-hoo!
The old battery was about 70% and the regulator at about 50% capacity. Not entirely bad, but not good either.
I probably shot my Odyssey in the foot using too low a charge voltage both by the regulator (at 13.5) and my 1.5 amp trickle charger which tends to operate below the 14.1 volt optimum for the Odyssey. I suppose I'll break down and buy the correct charger.
And then there is the warning in the literature for the battery saying the battery should be kept on the charger if the bike has anything less than a 40 amp 3-phase alternator. And the warning on the regulator saying the regulator should be disconnected during charging.
Don't throw the old battery, there was an article in the MG GB owners club magazine about repairing them, I tried it on my old Spark and amazingly it now works!!
The article said to remove the cover from the battery, remove the rubber caps from the cells and using a syringe keep adding distilled water to them until the matting is visibly moist(it can take hours to get to this point as you add water, it soaks into the matting, you add more water etc)
Once the matting is moist suck out any excess with the syringe and charge the battery(the details of the charging I can't remember but its something like 10% Amp Hours for 1 Hour ? )
I didn't follow the charging instructions (I didn't expect it to work if I'm honest) but just stuck my intelligent battery charger on it and left it for a couple of days, when I checked it seemed better so I figured I'd replace the dead battery in an old portable jump starter and use it for powering 12v stuff in the garage.
A few months later and the regulator goes and takes out my battery
so I get the jump starter and it starts the bike no problem, I really was not expecting that !!,Ok I think I'll take the battery out of the jump starter and put it on the bike while I fix the regulator rather than wait until the new battery arrives. I replace the regulator and the bike starts easily every time I try, the battery now lives on my Ducati and even though it isn't trickle charged (the bike hasn't been used for 2 years)manages to start it every few months.I need to attempt to repair my other battery but as the regulator shorted out it was totally drained of power (0v when checked) it stuggles to hold 12v now (it gives about 2 seconds of cranking before the solenoid just clicks)so I don't expect it will ever fully recover, but who knows ?
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Rode 650 km's up to Lapland today. The engine purrs fine after the last TB sync using the Micha method, getting 5,9 liters/100 km, riding 130-140 km/h. All should be well,BUT:
As a devout Guzzichondriac, I began to hear a new sound, a yawling or whine, from the rear. I have just changed the rear trans oil and added some moly, as I do every 5-6000 km's, so it shouldn't be the rear transmisssion. One hears it at speeds from 75-90 km/h. The only thing I can think of is rear wheel bearings. I had to change them some 12 000 km's ago, so if it's that,my RM really eats it's bearings at an alarming rate.
Or is it that the Michelin Pilot Sport is a really loud tyre when getting worn? Anyways, I can't just overlook the possibility of a worn out wheel bearing. Why does it always have to happen when I'm up here in Lapland where spare parts don't exactly grow abudantly in trees!
Of course I could ride back south keeping my speed over 140 because then I can't hear the strange noise
There is a thread about this somewhere, it may be the spacer between the bearings is too short.
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I'm mostly left handed !!
I write left handed, kick left footed but throw, use a hammer etc right handed !!
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Went to the Festival of 1000 bikes yesterday and saw these interesting bikes.
great youtube clip
great day
if you've not been you should!!, just seeing the Rotary Nortons doing there stuff was worth the entrance fee alone !!!(what a sound!!
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Glad the TT went ok.
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Just out of interest which Fiat has the same Crank/Cam Sensor ?
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Contact MotoInternational. Google it and your problems are over.
A BMW switch (can't remember which models) will work but has a different connector.
inter-moto part no. 50570
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A bit more about the
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You catch the Gondola at the Bluebird Cafe which has this memorial outside
which was the temporary headstone in Coniston cemetery until it was replaced by this one.
The restored Bluebird may be returning to Coniston next Spring as permission has been granted for a 100mph run before it goes on display, so it's worth looking out for this as it may be the only time it will run !!!
The replica in the Lakeland motor museum that was built for the film "Across The Lake" (starring Anthony Hopkins) is pretty impressive so the real thing actually running will be worth seeing!!!
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It only takes six of these bags gets it around the Lake !!
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A Victorian Guzzi boat!!
Steam Yacht Gondola,Coniston Water, the Lake District
Left Cylinder
Right Cylinder
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First of all, please forgive my ignorance
Other than the zerks on my 2003 LeMans shaft drive (and the bevel gear lube), is there anything else that needs regular lubing? I keep hearing about splines that should be greased. Are any of these serviced by any of the zerks? Or are there splines not serviced by the zerks, such as when the rear wheel is off? I've got ~10.5K miles previously serviced by the dealer (Detroit Eurocycles, RIP ) and I'm about to tackle removing the rear wheel for the first time 
Thanks!!
When you get the rear wheel off the splines are visible but it's worth removing the cush drive cover (use a very good fit allen key and if available some heat to soften the thread lock)then cleaning and lubing the whole cush drive assembly as MG didn't !!
While there you can, if you want, do the dreaded cush drive mod (pages and pages have been dedicated to this topic.....)
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Back to happier times ...
Nice bike
Not to add to your worries but as you've got a "new" V11 it would be worth sorting the rear hugger so spray off the back wheel doesn't get onto the rear shock etc.
(I fitted a ZXR750 hugger from an autojumble upside down inside the existing hugger)
Other than that just ride it and deal with things as they happen
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It maybe a caliper seal issue but sometimes air can become trapped in the master cylinder , slightly loosen the master cylinder banjo bolt and squeeze the lever with a rag held to catch any fluid drips(fluid or air should leak out) tighten and repeat a couple of times, then wash the area with water to avoid any fluid on paint/plastic issues !!!
Don't think the V11 is too bad but on some bikes the calipers bleed best if they are held so the bleed screw is at the highest point to avoid air locks.
good luck
hope you make the TT ok.
oil seal size ?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Anyone know the size of the gear selector shaft oil seal ?
Mine is leaking and I don't want to pull it apart until I have a replacement to hand if possible.