pasotibbs
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Posts posted by pasotibbs
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I have seen a ton of threads on this forum where people are suggesting buying new Ohlins, Penskes or whatever to replace the crap stock shocks on their V11 Sport. On Ebay, or CL, etc. I see lots of piggy back shocks. Does anyone know what other bikes use the same size and specs shockas the one for our Guzzis? For instance, is our shock the same as the Ducati 998 or GSX-R or something like that? May just need a longer hose line or different size eyelets. I have been scouring all used bike shops and every site to find a replacement where I don't have to spend 1000$. Help please. I know someone has the answer.
One thing to be aware of in your search is that I'm pretty sure that the shaft drive joints limit the length of shock you can use so you must stay within the Ohlins specs(10mm longer than Sachs IIRC ?) for total length and range of movement.
good luck, I'm sure many here will be interested if you find a match !!
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Hi
Was just wondering if anyone knows who can replace the rod end on my Sachs shock from my 04 V11 Lemans.
I don't think i can take it apart any further without screwing up the seals.
I don't need someone that will rip me off,just a fair shop.
Thanks
Mike
The Sachs shock is not very good to start with so most here will advise you replace rather than waste money on a repair.
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In my never-ending efforts to keep all the oil inside the engine and not in puddles on the workshop floor, I have another question for you good folk. If there is too much oil in the engine where is it going to exit ? Does it cough it all over the top of the engine or somewhere else ? I have just replaced the breather hose as it was split and made a mess - I thought I had cleared it all up but now there is a dampness on top of the engine again. Think I may have over-filled slightly on a recent oil change so that is my first angle of attack. (I have plastic tube and syringe at the ready to draw some out). The oil level is just over the top of the max on the dipstick when bike is level. Thanks.
If you used the dipstick as MG say to use it (ie screwed in) then don't worry as most here suggest using the dipstick like a Honda (resting on the top thread) to avoid the oil pump sucking air when accelerating up a gradient.
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Thanks for that, armed with a part No at least I have a fighting chance at the local auto parts.
Without that they have to know what year, model and engine size it comes from so they can
look it up. I'm talking Canadian Tire here.
Different connector but BMW 320 fits if I remember correctly.
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Got the Lemans back together, went for a short ride. The rear brake seems to be dragging slightly, making the disk very hot. I took the caliper off, forced it apart, re-assembled, went for another short ride. Same thing.
Separated it again, adjusted the plunger and pedal so that there was way too much slack (so that the brake barely engaged), went for a ride around the block, returned to find the rear disk fry-an-egg hot.
It seems to pinch fine, but then not let go. Front calipers do not do this - calipers release and disks cool off immediately.
Help?
Thanks,
C
It maybe the master cylinder not returning fully due to corrosion, I'd check that first(it was with mine anyway!!).
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a few little issues; the speedo works, but the odometer doesn't. The tach doesn't work either. The battery was dead this morning, and after its chargred I'll check the fuses, although I don't think that'll be the issue. Any ideas?
Dead battery may be as simple as leaving the parking light on as its easy to do (when turning the ign switch off you can select park not off) ?
The clocks both have "issues",I believe a gear can strip in the speedo which stops the odometer working and the fine wires to the tacho stepper motor can break.
Probably easier/cheaper to replace with a digital display if both have faults...
Welcome to Moto Guzzi ownership !!
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Two years later and I am now the owner of this 2001 v11 sport, with 17k, just in time for a full fluids and filter change (already ordered everything except the 27mm hex wrench)
I believe the rear wheel spindle nut is 27mm and combined with a spanner can be used to remove the filter cover
But best practice is to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pickup filter when you change the oil filter,as the bike is new to you this may be best as it may never have been done !!
Also most here will say to top up the oil with the dipstick on the top thread (like a Honda) not as MG say (with it tightened) as that level seems to be too low.
Dave
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Can someone tell us if an aftermarket crossover will make the bike even louder?
Yup. My bike got a little louder when I added an FBF crossover to the MG Ti exhaust system that was already on the bike. It accomplished what I wanted, more grunt, so the slight noise increase was worth it to me. I think Greg Field posted a crossover comparison a few years back that probably has comments on changes in noise and performance.
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The film uses the new RealD (look like sunglasses) system not the old coloured lenses setup so should work for all with vision in both eyes,should be viewable for anybody colour blind and appear 2D for anyone who hasn't got vision in both eyes(I think
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http://www.facebook.com/notes/tt3d-movie/tt3d-closer-to-the-edge-release-cinemas/194198773957983
Now showing in more locations, Sheffield have it on at the Odeon this Friday to next Thursday 8.10 pm
and Cineworld tomorrow and Monday 8.55 pm
Would have saved me a 90 mile round trip
, but at least I can easily see it again now 
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Saw it last night, but it has already finished at the cinema I went to !!! I had to drive 45 miles to catch the last showing at a cinema in Nottingham.
It was sold out so if you find somewhere still showing it may be best to reserve your tickets.
Well worth seeing, it is a very well made film that even somebody with no interest in bikes or racing would enjoy.
Hopefully it has exceeded expectations and more dates will be added.
Guy Martin is brilliant !!!
I bought this at Stafford Classic show on Sunday.
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I seem to have a bit of a dead spot in my starter. Over the last year or so about 1 in 10 times that I try to start the bike I will hear the starter gear engage but the engine won't turn over. At this point I know that if I hold the button down for more than 3 or 4 seconds without the engine turning over it will cook the fuse so I let up then hit it again for a couple seconds. After two or three more tries the engine will suddenly turn over and fire up. Last winter I followed the forum's advice and opened up the solenoid and made sure it was clean and the slug was moving freely so I'm pretty sure that the problem isn't there.
I replaced the battery this past Spring and the starting problem remained so I really think the issue is with the starter. Is there anything I can do with it other than buy a replacement? If I do have to replace it does anyone have any experience with the non-Valeo starters that are available from EME or on ebay?
Mine sometimes does this also,and has done for ages, it appears to be the solenoid not engaging fully as I can hear it operate but the starter does not turn.When it fails to work I hold the starter button in and work the clutch switch until the starter turns (usually between 2 and 5 attempts works) ,it seems worse when the bikes been stood a while.
I replaced the solenoid but could only get second hand(for free) as the starter repair place was having difficulty sourcing new parts due to the Euro exchange rate, it seemed to cure it for a while but the fault returned.
I may try to get a new solenoid this year and give that a go.
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A couple of years ago a friend asked me what I thought of the ST2(as he'd been offered one for very little money) and I told him what my Ducati mechanic had told me.
My Ducati mechanic Ducati John needed a loan bike to lend to customers so bought an old ST2(because it was really cheap), after several months he began to notice that everybody he lent it to commented on how nice it was (regardless of what they normally rode)and that actually without noticing he was using it rather than his own 851 when he needed a bike.
My friend bought the ST2 and loves it !!!
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The operative term in the manual instructing how to insert the dip stick is "screw it up."
Here in the States that means something that, well, you don't want to do to your Guzzi!
I like Ducati's advice in the manual to "Never start a cold motorcycle"
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Hi, I noticed whilst reading the sloppage sheet post's that people are not screwing the dipstick all the way in as per manual- is this right? I have a roper plate fitted-any harm in 'over filling' when using this method?
Most here agree that the MG method appears to set the oil level too low,with a plate fitted it's safe to use the dipstick like a Honda as it is still below the plate level.
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My dear Mr Roper,
We brought home our 'new' Guzzi last weekend. 2002 Scura. Spouse noticed on the way home from work today that the oil light flickered momentarily while climbing the hill to the house. Oil level looks great and there is only 200 miles on since the last oil change. We both commented at the same time that perhaps we should invest in your sloppage sheet. Let me know what cost & shipping is to Wenatchee, WA 98801.
Thank you kindly, sir,
Dee
Duh...$165 + 30 = 195. If you have one available, I can PayPal you in the morning. Its after midnight and there's no more beer, so I'm going to bed.
When you fit the plate it's best to use the dipstick like you would on a Honda ie don't screw it in to check the level but hold it on the top thread.Some say this may be good practice even without a plate but it's safer with !
Dave
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Hi all,
recently I bought a Sport1100 which needs a bit of work here and there. The driveshaft UJs feel rather sloppy and I suspect too much wear on the pinion shaft bearing or bush (how much is tolerable there?)
I noticed that Guzzi only sell more or less complete driveshafts but surely those UJs are nothing special and could be replaced with sealed-for-life items?
Does any one know the dimensions of the UJs?
Tom
I've thought about this a few times as well, and just haven't followed through on getting it over to a driveshaft specialist to take a look. Not sure if it's feesable or not, but I'm guessing someone here has looked into it further.
Somebody here did rebuild their U/J's with off the shelf parts, I believe it was RossoAndy ?
I haven't seen him post for a while so you may have to search for the thread, he also did a thread on replacing the bearings in the rear drive box and he may have mentioned the shaft joints there ?
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Well, the next hotel has internet
Thanks to the replies, I decided to press on while keeping an eye on the tranny fluid level.
While holding the bike somewhat upright, the fluid appears to be half way up the sight glass.
Is that low?
Probably about right, certainly not low enough to require a top up.
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Thanks guys,
I'll look into getting a puller. Stearing head bearings need to be replaced as well so it would be a good investment.
I am curious to know how you used a dremel to get the bearings out. I've already got dremels, die grinders etc.
Using a grinding head,cut through the inner ring it'll fall apart relatively easy
I use a wooden dowel the size of the bearing to drive it in,
about a half dollar invested for both
As others have said the proper tool is best but I've heard that using a Rawl bolt to grip the inner race and then hitting it from the other side also works and is cheaper !!
WTF is a Rawl bolt?
An expanding bolt fixing, you must know them by another name ?
see here
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Not likely gear oil will make its way out the speedometer drive as long as the connection to the gearbox is tight.
That is a common point to gather a gooey mess off the bottom of the throttle body. Is it wet up there as well?
I'll check that.
Thanks!
I'm checking out of this hotel today and I don't know when I'll get back on the internet. Thanks for all the replies
Mine does the same and I've always assumed its oil leaking from the Speedo cable, maybe its not but it is such a small amount I'm not worried about it.
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Look familiar?
Uh,,,, is that you ?
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Anyone know the size of the gear selector shaft oil seal ? ...
15 26 7 BA - from V11Sport.de
Also try this link: http://www.stein-dinse.com/eliste/index.php?sid=ggg&lg=en
or this one: http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/shop
Following the one or other link you may end up here:
Hubert
perfect, I may even be able to get one on my way home tonight.
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Anyone know the size of the gear selector shaft oil seal ?
Mine is leaking and I don't want to pull it apart until I have a replacement to hand if possible.
Do you have a MG dealer near you?
Dealer is 45 miles away, bearing/seal shop (choice of 2) is 2 miles
First time dyno run
in Technical Topics
Posted
My bike is going on a Dyno next Tuesday, I've realized it's the only way I'll ever get my map sorted....hopefully anyway