pasotibbs
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Posts posted by pasotibbs
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Check the wiring under the tank, the connectors don't seem to like our climate much
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Is that a factory wheel? I thought they were ony available with 16'' wheel or an optional 18" wheel.
Astalites are like Honda's Comstars in construction and were a popular after market wheel option with kits available for many bikes (my Ducati has a pair)
Hesketh's had them and they were actually made here in Sheffield !!
very much sought after for classic racing
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Honda's tribute to the worst of BMW's designs perhaps ??
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Ok, anyone have any idea on this one?
I took my taillight out, cause it wasnt working. Took it to the dealer, ordered new one, and reassymbled it. I also took out my brake handle to get a new one. I caught the "little ball' and didnt know where it goes. Now my brake light wont turn off?
WTF?
Does the little ball have something to do with this?
Thanks,
Michael Jordan
Yes, if I remember correctly the ball sits between the lever and the button on the switch.
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+1 on all the above,.
Also as its not been mentioned it's possible that the torque reaction of the engine may play a part if you change the engine speed quickly mid turn (ie upshift , downshift or use big throttle changes )
I've never noticed it myself but then my riding style is to corner with a constant or slightly opening throttle whenever possible !
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+1 for the valves
How does it run when warmed up ?
If it seems "off"(erratic idle etc) it might be worth checking the inlet rubbers for leaks ?
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what exactly are these made of?..is it just a piece of rubber tube or is there more to it? anyway, those on my bike are crumbling but I cant find them in any parts list.
didnt find any reference to them in the forum either.
I guess that when they're completele gone you get clonks from the rear as well as sloppy roadholding...
I believe that they are not available from MG (you have to replace the entire arm) but I'm sure there was a tread about replacing them with bushes from a car ?
I think most people replace the arm with one of the lovely anodized aluminium arms that are available(not that expensive).
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time to pick the collective V11 brains assembled here with a gearbox issue.
Most of the time the box on my Scura shifts well, but there are days its downright unwilling (reluctant to change up, needs a proper kick then) or rather the reverse (need only to lift a toe and the lever moves up). whenever it is behaving badly the shift lever stays hanging in mid air so to speak ie doesnt return to its starting position. The latest event was that the box jumped out of gear when I hit a speed bump (unless I keep my foot on the lever)
all this mainly occurs at lowish speeds/revs - hot or cold, no problem changing gear on the motorway. at higher revs the shift lever returns properly too.
I found a number of posts on the gear change linkage becoming sloppy because of a nut working loose (still have to check that - how much play should be allowed anyway?) but I suspect the cause lies somewhere inside the box, because of the jumping out of gear. a duff spring? (but dont those either work or break?)
I put redline shockproof heavy in the box but that didnt make any difference.
Check the external linkage first, the joints may require cleaning and oiling.
If you remove the starter (remember to disconnect the battery first) you can easily check it.
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..oh yes the austin allegro springs to mind
I'd say just about any BL product of the 80's !!
I always liked the official BL solution to water in the Allegro's boot.....take a drill and make 2 holes in the floor !!!
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I probably didn't do it any favours running the current from the warning switch through it, & it got knocked about a bit while fitting. Still showing 45ish - 80, & the warning light came on again yesterday -it is a recent replacement, an Intermotor 50570. Perhaps the mixed currents damaged that too, or perhaps the ridiculous Welsh rain has connected something else in the loom. Bike runs like a dream though
Almost certainly water in the sensor, my Ducati used to do it all the time if ridden in the rain for any long distance, the V11's done it once so far.
I'd replace the sensor but waterproof the new one as much as possible as water seems to get in between the connector and the plastic part of the sensor.In the past I've tried to get the water out of the sensor by drilling a small hole in the plastic (near the connector) and using WD40 and then switch cleaner but they've never been reliable afterwards.
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Get the bike back if you can,a length of car heater hose can be used to get the bike mobile [i made one for mine and it still seems ok after 2 years,but I don't do many miles!!] and then you can then buy a new one or as others have said a trip to a breakers yard may supply a suitable replacement from a car.
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I have installed new regulator, with new 30A the lights are on, with fuse out, no light
no fuse - no lights
What happens if you disconnect the regulator wires as I suggested ?
If the lights stay on then you may have a short between the regulator side of the 30amp fuse and the regulator itself somewhere in the loom but perhaps in (or most likely below) the fusebox itself?
It might be worth looking at the dash light wiring to see where the +ve feed is coming from when the ign is off then you can trace it back to its source ?
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I'd remove the tank (remember to remove the fuel pump relay to avoid the risk of spraying fuel if you power the ign circuit )
then with the ign off disconnect the wires from the regulator until the dash lights go out (+ve,-ve ,dash light and the 2 generator wires if I remember correctly)if it doesn't have any effect then the fault may be elsewhere, it may be as simple as a short in the wiring around the headstock ?
When my replacement regulator went faulty last month (30 amp fuse blowing) I discovered the regulator case was live due to an internal short
, with a heat gun I was able to remove the potting compound and see a burnt area between the board and the case maybe due to water getting in ? -
I think not. The flat twin has both pistons at TDC at the same time. Also at BDC same time. Breathing would be 'heavier' than on a V twin although not much.
Yes of course it does
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Hmm fair enough...but i think that sludge is built up from carbon deposits wich are blown past the piston rings..
I can only imagine that BMW engines have better tollerances than guzzis and therefore less blowby..
Its intersting stuff because Saab turbo engines have similar problems with sludge building up in the sump,and with these engines the problem is the crank case vent system.
Perhaps its because the V twin "breathes" heavier than a flat twin due to the changes of crankcase volume ?
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Many thanks for your replies regarding this problem. I thought I'd let you know that after having a better look at the bike and trying some of your suggestions i've found out its engine oil that its throw everywhere, still can't see where its come from though. Removed the drain plug on the gearbox and thankfully no lumps of metal on it, just a few tiny metal filings. The gearbox was full of clean oil which i drained out but I don't know where or how to remove gearbox cover to look inside, my manul for this bike only tells me to remove engine etc etc to get to the gearbox. I checked the engine oil again and found it is lower than it was prior to me going on the trip, dipstick shows it just on the min and it was on max so it must of blown something. I tried it up and down the gears (after refilling with fresh oil) but can still only select 1st,2nd,3rd it will not go up into 4th. I don't think I have the knowledge or skill to fix this and don't wish to make things worse , so I'm gonna phone my nearest dealer and try and book it in. Many thanks for all your comments i'm very grateful and will let you know the outcome asap.
Regards
Heather
Engine oil leak may be from the breather pipe on top of the engine,it goes from the rear of the engine up to the frame near the coils/headstock.
I think this does throw oil all over if it splits so may be worth checking ?
Hopefully the gearbox fault is just a selector issue and easily fixed.
Dave
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I think someone here used a heat gun to soften the plastic so the mirror could be removed ?
Maybe extra weight could then be added to the casing, mirror itself or both in a more controlled way?
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Hello all, I am wondering please if anyone may be able to shed any light on whats happen to my Guzzi. Its a 2003 scura with 21,000 on the clock.I was on the motorway today and suddenly found i couldn't select 4th 5th 6th gear. I pulled over and had a quick look but couldn't see anything wrong at this point so decided to try and limp home. The traffic was heavy so was only travelling 30/40mph when after about 20 miles i noticed plumes of blue smoke behind me. Pulled over and there was oil everywhere and i mean everywhere I got bike recovered but have not had a chance to look at it in any great detail. after a quick look i can't see any obvious place where its come from. I have checked oil in the engine and got the bike running again which it did ok but tried gears again and they are all over the place, i tried to select 4th but it seems to go in but bike doesn't even move like its in neutral. I can't tell if the oil is from the engine or gearbox as its all over the front of the bike as well as the rear. I don't know if its relevant but the bike was running very hot before this happened although to be fair it has been a really hot day, also it had a new clutch etc fitted about 5000 miles ago due to clutch/flywheel problems. I would be really grateful for any ideas or suggestions on what i've done to it Many many thanks for any help
Regards
Heather
Have a good look around to see if there is any damage to the casing if none are visible then I'd drain the gearbox oil that remains(if any) and see what else falls out! If big bits of metal fall out then its bad and like the others have said, take off the side cover and have a look inside.
If you get a small "christmas tree" on the magnetic plug (tiny metal filings) its probably not terminal some metal here is normal.
The gearboxes have been known to act up if they get really hot (as in your situation) and then behave normally when they cool down again but your's throwing its oil out sounds more serious.
One possibility is that if you've ridden in the rain (well you do live in the UK!!) spray off the rear wheel may have got into the 'box (a known fault) and then when it got hot turned to steam and tried to get out again throwing oil everywhere ?
It may be that replacing the gear oil will cure it, but I'd be tempted to remove the gearbox cover and check/clean inside before riding again (you can also change the Pawl spring while your there)
If everything checks out then I'd use Redline gear oil as others here suggest.
Dave
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Hard to say really, but can give it a try...
LCD + Neutral stays on - looks like the instrument is powered even with the ignition switched off. You are supposed to connect the red instrument wire directly to the + pole of the battery. Instrument's brown wire should be connected to the ignition switch. Not sure which wire would that be, but you can try with Guzzi's white (Neutral lamp - have a wiring diagram ready). The white one should be powered when ignition is on. Check with multimeter if you can.
Oil light - should be straightforward. Guzzi's blue/black to the instrument's orange. If the lamp does not come on, it is likely because of the missing power connection as described above. I guess you left either battery or ignition key connection out.
EOBD as fuel warning - not sure this will work. I also had a tank almost empty and measured some 500 ohm there. Tilting the tank up so the fuel would "free up" the sensor I measured some 900 ohm. Tried finding some reading about it, but no success. Beats me how it works. According to the wiring diagram it is some sort of a switch, but it kicks in gradually like a potentiometer. No clue.
If anyone has a datasheet of Guzzi's fuel level switch/sensor, come forward...
The fuel light bulb needs to draw enough current to cause the thyrister to heat up when not covered by fuel so it may be worth looking at the bulb type used (it may be an LED).
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Yeah, took me until just recently to find spec on minimum thickness. I laugh at these - "minimum thickness engraved on disc":
I don't need to go fancy. I've worn my 08489982s down to sub 3mm without warping or complaint (so much for 3.6mm minimum thickness). Though one set of pads, I got from a Ducati dealer, only lasted 8000km. Maybe that helped...?
One of the reasons for the minimum thickness is that a pad worn close to the backing plate could possibly make a bid for freedom between the caliper and disk !!
(I've seen cars do this)Its possible to go below the recommended thickness but only if the pads are checked (with our bikes the rear disk is probably the one most likely to be dangerous due to its ability to wear pads at a rapid rate !!)
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Riding today around town as I was approaching a traffic light I suddenly noticed the oil light came on. I stopped the engine right there and pushed the bike into a parking lot. Temp gauge showed 120 C A (today was in the mid-hi 90s here).
Later in the evening I went back to the bike and dropped the sump. Sure enough all appeared kosher, filter rock solid screwed in, nothing in oil nor mesh filter, pipes okay. WTF? I had similar stuff happen last summer. Anyway, I started the engine and the red light lasted just one sec after starting. Rode bike home no oil light anymore.
The only pattern I see is that the light has only come on while the engine was hot. Pump is pretty much ruled out as far as experts say. All I can think of is bad pressure sensor, though I don t know what it has to do with oil/engine higher temp. Theres been at least one more topic here about the light coming on when the engine was hot.
Any suggestions appreciated.
If you've ridden in heavy rain the oil pressure sensor probably has water in it (my V11,Paso, mates 850 Lemans and another mates 900SS have all done this) swap it out as Pete suggests.
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Replaced mine on Monday, it was still ok but as I had a new one I thought it was better to do it now !!
I'm glad I did it as the boss was 16mm and the old spring had a greater range of motion than the new, I filed the boss down to 15mm and fitted the new spring.
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I noticed when I arrived in Ulster that I had some oil on the right hand side of my rear wheel- nothing to write home about, but after a few hours at 80mph on the way home, the leak had got a little worse and there was some on the edge of the tyre. There was no flood of oil dripping down from the box, but just a small stain indicating a small leak.
All the bolts are tight, and I don't think it is the breather so I am guessing I may need to replace the seal(s), a job which I have never had to do before.
Looking at the parts manual there are two seals, part numbers 90403850 and 90706958.
Am I likely to need to replace both seals? Do I need any special tools for the job?
Any advice much appreciated.
Cheers
Guy
Its not a terrible job (unless the leak is from the pinion seal) as you should not need to remove the pinion gear ( a real pain).
and here (the tread I posted pics in)
Seals for bevel box are...(prices are 3 years old)
BRTS70X85X8 OIL SEAL £1.64 +VAT
BRTS32X52X7 OIL SEAL £1.03 +VAT
BRTS37X55X8 OIL SEAL £1.64 +VAT
BS163 O RING £0.50 +VAT
from reading the thread it looks like I found one seal size to be wrong (38x50x7 instead of a 37x55x6 ) but as thats not on the list I'm not sure if there is another seal ?
I have a bearing puller if you need it (I can't remember) just PM me.
Ace
in Special place for banter and conversation
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Legs ZZ top ?