ALdad

Ready for some new plugs. I have been running stock NGK's. Anybody tried the e3 diamondfire.

What are the torque values. I have never done this. I know I should have. The bike has 20k mi. now. I picked it up with 2k mi. I guess I figured the first guy would have done it, but maybe not.

The splatter may be grease from UJ's (if you lubed these at the same time) ..? Gio I did grease at the same time, probably the splatter. 350ml is what I measured comming out and thats what I put back in. So I guess I'm OK ? Thanx!

When I fill my rear drive, I fill till it comes out the overflow hole. This seems to be about 350ml. I have some splatter on my rim. Is this gear oil? can I use less? Cheer!

I've been running the stradas on my 2000 sport for 10k mi. I get about 5,300mi. on the rear on a strada which is about 1k more than the std Diablo. They seem to work fine in all conditions. I'm not a peg dragger but I go pretty good on the twisties. Most of my miles sadly are commuting in a strait line with lots of traffic lights. I like the extra miles on the Strada. If you like soft and sticky This is probbably not the tire for you. But they do handle nice. I run a 160-60 Turns fast and is stable at speed.

Call Summit racing 800-230-3030. Get the SUM-350106 aluminized sleeve I think it's the one inch. I used two layers, but changed the line and no longer have the metal braid. Also get the blanket of the same meterial. Wrap the pump and the fuel line. I have had no problems since and have ridden some hot days. I also switched to a manual petcock from MPH cycles.

I installed the hyperpros in my 2ooo sport a few months ago. The springs are the same length as the stock+ the spacers, so no spacers are needed. The sag was too much at 46mm static. The ride was really supple but front was too low and quick. I put 8mm spacers which brought the sag up to 32mm static 44 loaded. I dropped the forks in the top clamp to 5mm they were at 10mm and I like it now. Front wheel sticks to ground better in corners than stock. ride is really nice. Rear is about 38mm loaded the bike seems pretty well ballanced now. I weigh 210lbs I hope this is of some help to somebody . Cheer!!

I was talking about the left side when I wrote LF. I should have written Lf for left or even better LR for left rear, sorry ,Next time. Anyway I changed both LR and RR to 6204 c3. With bearings fully seated the spacer has no lateral play but has vertical movement. Is this a correct spacer? Cheer!

Oh, I love being a novice demonstrating my professional panic skills in public

Dave , not sure where you got those #s. I found the # on my drive side and it is a 6204 I'm not sure about the LF.side ,I think I have to remove the c-clip to get at it. Does any body know if both sides are the same on a 2000 sport?

Thanx Dave , I was going to run out and get some 6204's today. I guess I would have got the wrong ones for my bike. Would'nt that have been a below average experience!! What is the purpose of the cir-clip? How do I drive them out with the spacer tube in there? Cheer! Alan

OK, I got it figured. I need a bigger cir-clip remover and need to find a local quality bearing and I'll be on the road. Cheer!

Do I need to remove the c-clip? Is the spacer the pipe between the two sides the axel slides through.

Final check up before heading off to the GP. LF rear wheel bearing toast. Where can I get some , what #s and how do I change them. Do I really need any specialized tools ? Help please. Always something at the last minute eh?

What a great visual chart, Thanx. I have been looking for something llike this. Rember to stay up wind of the group. Cheer!!

I have not installed a plate yet. With a new filter I put in 4qts. Never had a problem with light comming on. I don't do alot of hard starts because of no plate. Is this too much oil to run?

Some of the sleevesare not shiny, I wonder how effective a non metalized type sleeve would be as does not reflect heat . I think it is more for protecting against momentary flame and molten metal exposure.Like in welding applications. Just a thought.

Jason, Is your 2000 set up like mine, solenoid/petcock on the left and the fuel pump under the spine?

I live life in a state of confusion. It seems to feel natural for me. Now is your pump on top or on the bottom?

Was your pump on the top or bottom? Where is it now? Petcock to pump is where I have been burping. Sooo many opinions.

That's the pressure adjuster. on my bike it is on the rt. side. Those crazy guzzi guys always changing it up just to keep us on our toes. I will burp it from the pressure valve next time, and see if it works any better. It's easier to remove that hose anyway and makes more sence since it is at the end of the line. Cheer!!

This is weird. My 2000 is opposite of this picture. My fuel pump is on the bottom and the solenoid is on the left, when sitting on the bike. Anyway I ordered a manual petcock should have it in a couple of days. That will fix the broken wire concern ,and maybe help with the vapor thing. I am also going to insulate with fire sleeve.

When I remove the hose at the solenoid, fuel and pressure comes out of the hose, Not the solenoid. The pump stronger than the solenoid sound possible. I have not tried to break the tank vacumme via the gas cap, with the hose disconneced to see if gas free flows out the solenoid. I will try that tonight.

On my 2000 bike with the broken wire, I am assuming it is stuck in the open position. cuz the bike still runs. when I burp it there is still plenty of pressurs in the line.

I don't know about when the bike is running. But when I remove the hose gas does not come out. Maybe there is enough vacumme in the tank to keep the gas in.?