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Everything posted by docc
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Too cool, @Steve S ! I have long wondered how many V11 have benefited from your stewardship. Regarding the OE front brake pads, Tim at CadreCycle in Cincinnati, Ohio/USA, tells me he has three sets of these GU01654630 at $73.00US. Each V11 uses two sets. This morning OPP Racing sent me a tracking number for the order I made last night. Another member here tells me he has used OPP extensively for Brembo components and parts.
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Nero Corsa from @Steve S
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Even the Öhlins V11 look to be 2-pin . . .
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I don't know where I got the idea that the front calipers changed to a single pin during the V11 series. A 2003 LeMans is definitely a "later" V11. [edit]: Every image of a V11 I can find, through the 2004 Corsas and the 2004 Scura R, have the same 2-pin front calipers.
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Thanks! Here is the detail from my OPP invoice: Brembo OE Brake Pad Set, Ferit I-D 450FF Pad Kit for 20.6800.xx / 20.9230.xx Caliper, Shape M - 107670810 [edit]: our early 2-pin calipers (didn't the V11 change to single pin calipers later?) look like these P4 34/30 20.6800: [Yet, I can't tell the difference from this 20.9230:
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These Brembo "sinter" pads (red backing) are what is available from MG Cycle for the front. The rear I got from them recently is "carbon ceramic" (blue backing) that I have run before.
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Thanks, again, @Speedfrog. I made an order from OPP Racing and will hope for the best. I just cannot run these "sinter" pads.
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Having worn my original rotors with some aggressive front pads, I went back to using Brembo pads exclusively. Last time I went looking for front replacements all I found is the "sintered" pads with the red backing. I just rode them for the first time and they do brake well, but are scoring my rotors and sound awful just rolling the bike. I had cleaned and serviced all the pistons and bled the system, so unlikely it is a sticking piston. The scoring is also present on all four rotor faces. Are OEM style Brembo front pads (for the two pin calipers) still available?
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Ducati DesertX Fantic Motor Caballero
docc replied to Joe's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
I'm not sure a "Banter" thread can be drifted. They are like a conversation at a party.... Drifting a "How to" thread, on the other hand . . . -
Congratulations! Looking forward to hearing your impressions relative to the V11 . . .
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Yes! And brake pads, clean and rotate all the brake pistons, flush fluid, Decent Tune-up . . . ready for the spring Kentucky spine Raid !
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Replaced my busted-up front fender tonight. Just want to thank @Aldo, again. And also @KINDOY2 for all the encouragement to pursue this.
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No dog? Go fish!
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Is one voltage the tail light side and the other the brake light side?
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The bulb is not making connection in the socket. Reach into the fixture with a bent probe and reshape the contact plate, pulling it further to the read so the bulb makes contact.
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Yes, certainly on the early chinpad short tanks. This self-adhesive foil commonly comes loose and benefits from re-adhering. I cases with open-top air box modification, the foil has been known to drop down and block the air flow. Perhaps someone with the later, internal pump/filter long tank can confirm the heat shielding was still being applied?
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*Pretty sure* sKSR-Central (the "cottage"/602 on the park map) is 209 Jennings Rd on google maps. Looks to be more like 2 1/2 miles from there to The Lodge/restaurant/lodge rooms so, for sure, a shuttle will be much appreciated for the lodge guests!
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All of the earthing runs back to ring terminals at the battery. The wiring diagrams are non-specific about that, just showing an earthing(grounding) symbol. This particular fail is most likely down to the bulb not contacting inside the light housing. Otherwise, a quick look at the rear connectors inside the access panel above the rear tire.
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There are a group of connectors in the tail section to check. The access panel is above the rear wheel where the fender extension bolts on. Before going there, press the bulb hard into the socket and see if that causes it to make contact inside the holder. Also, you can put a voltmeter on each of the contacts in the tail light (one is for the brake light) and see if there is power when the lever is pressed. This is a common failure in these tail lights. You may be able to re-shape the brake light contact (pull it out some) and solve this.
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A legit two view dimensioned drawing! Thanks @Skip !
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Studying the maps, it looks like the cottage is just outside the park entrance. I keep getting about two miles from the lodge.
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Y'all-boys have shamed me into this. I could even hear my own voice saying, "Decent Tune-up " . . . [Real-time image, not a "reference" from the archive . . .] > Eighteen days out and I already know that Waddington hates me . . .