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Ah, yes, @Martijn851, my 2000 Sport Owner's Manual also shows 0.10/0.15. The "Decent Tune-up" thread uses 0.15/0.20. I wish I could provide the references for that derivation. Seems there have been some expert opinions and experienced outcomes on the looser valve lash . . .

Yessir, that #112 works. I am not sure what the actual metric size is. Use Nitrile (Buna-N), or Viton instead of plumbing parts. Be careful not to use so much sealant that it changes the spacing of the sensor from the timing wheel. These sensor have been reported to leak through the wiring. My ugly JB Weld repair has remained effective for many years/miles:

Are you disengaging the clutch (holding the lever in) to start? There is a clutch safety lock-out switch. Those "bullet connectors" are suspect when there is absolutely zero response to the start attempt. Are you attempting the start with the sidestand up or down? Yes, no Neutral light could mean it is in gear or between gears and not actually in neutral. What battery are you using? An OEM Odyssey PC545 is deeply discharged at 12.2 volts and will require conditioning. A low amp "trickle charger" will not charge it. Must be 6 amps or more to actually charge a PC545.

Haha! Glad I wasn't the only one!

Go Indian!

Thanks for checking my work, @Speedfrog Title corrected, new topic created . . .

Only at a SpineRaid . . . Bellissima !

. . . plus the people, and places, that give us inspiration . . .

If a "SpineRaid" includes proper "TechSessions" . . .

Eh, the forum has set the limit on my "likes&thanks " for today. So, back home from a "true" SpineRaid, and what an honor to attend. Welldone @Joe and @kalev11 ! What an outstanding effort! [pictured,L>R, Bill Hagan/ Joe ]

0.15/0.20 would be best? (In spite of "the manual")?

Posts moved for clarity and technical discussion . . .

@Revilo has recovered his stolen V11, yet worse for the wear. Any and all help most appreciated! (Posts moved for focus.)

With an over-voltage failure like that, watch your relays for signs of damage and malfunction . . .

I've been away for the weekend for a V11 meet-up. Both @Revilo's posts and the @audiomick's Ford fuel line connectors should be their own topics, IMHO, rather than in this menagerie thread. I am quite busy catching up, but will try and focus those topics ASAP . . . [edit]:

No doubt, you will arrive to a warm welcome. Ahead of the storms would be a bonus . . .

I am reminded of @Admin Jaap's G&B Sport Monza V11 :

While rather angular for my tastes, I bet it is luscious to see in person . . .

Whew, footpeg behind the swingarm pivot. That's not for everybody . . .

The replacement universals are in the spares cabinet. I was fortunate to source a complete used driveshaft.

Kinda painful how that beautiful Fender bass is just back there for show . . .

Every one of these steps will make your V11 better and better. Along with the throttle body synch, it is some kind of magic . . .

Finish the "Decent Tune-up" and ride it! [The throttle body balance (at "some" rpm) is well indicated after the canister change.]

It is not as simple as richer versus leaner, but more where the throttle opening(s) are indexed to the mapping.

I hope someone has the answer to this. Finding the "fully and completely closed" throttle plate position has become a maddening event on my well-worn Sport. 30mV is as close as I can get, as well. Not perfect . . . Otherwise, it is a matter of: set it / ride it. Love it or change it.