docc
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Posts posted by docc
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On 5/22/2025 at 8:28 AM, fastaussie said:
for sale is my '97 916. it is the last year of the original 90's Ducati graphics before they went to a small displacement number in the upper front corner of the fairing with a plain red fairing. i bought this bike almost a decade ago with 17k miles and have had it since. it now has around 21k on the odometer. however this bike is as clean as can be for not being brand new, it is in exceptional shape as you would expect of an icon such as this. it looks as new with the fairings on or off. i am extraordinarily picky about what i buy and religious about maintaining their mechanicals and aesthetics. i have owned dozens of Ducati's and other brands over my riding lifetime, this is of course the most special of all. it's cleaned off with a microfibre cloth after each ride, with separate cloths for fairings, windscreen, and frame/wheels. it's also hand waxed every few months.
this 916 is completely 💯% OEM with the exception of a set of Termignoni carbon fibre slip-ons (with chip) and a closed carbon fibre clutch cover. there is a carbon key guard also, otherwise it's no different than when it rolled out of the Bologna factory 28 years ago. license plate holder, turn signals, levers, paint are all original. it came to me with an SPS tail but it is NOT an SPS. the white plate on the tail does look awesome so i left it, especially compared to the all red tail which looks kinda plain in contrast. when i bought it there was a tinted aftermarket windscreen. i purchased a brand new Factory Ducati OEM windscreen directly from Italy with the little Cagiva elephant in the right hand corner to bring it back to original equipment condition.
i have had the rear brake master cylinder rebuilt, the chain runners replaced with new, and the air intake tubes replaced with brand new also. probably a few other general maintenance items i do not recall currently, along with the usual oil and filter, air filters, etc. it wears Bridgestone S22 tyres currently, in very near new, great condition. brakes, clutch, fluids, etc., are all in excellent shape. it has the upgraded charging system and regulator. battery is fresh and always on a tender when not in use. it will fire straight to life and run perfectly without the need of the fast idle. every turn signal, dash light, tail light and the rest function as expected.
the going rate in this condition and mileage according to Classic Ducati Market sales tracking for 2020 to 2025 is between $18k to $19k on average.
https://www.classic.com/m/ducati/year-1997
this bike has always resided within my personal residence in the Los Angeles South Bay area since i've owned it, and been maintained exclusively by Moto Servizio in Long Beach, as have all of my Ducati's and other brands. clean title of course, and currently registered. never dropped and never abused. spending 90% of its life in front of the fireplace. as you can see from some of the photos, this machine is ridden at least monthly, usually for Malibu car shows and Rock Store bike meet-ups. it has never left me stranded or given any trouble. it's never seen the track, i have other new machines for that purpose (ZX-4RR, Daytona 675R, GSXR 750, S1000RR M, RSV4 Factory). i originally purchased the bike from an old man's estate in NYC and had it shipped to me in L.A. it's been well cared for and had an easy life. the two videos below will show the condition and sound of my 916:Always fun banter over "fast and faster."
I would like to steer the topic back to @fastaussie's Ducati for sale.Where is the 916 listed? I am not sure I saw it on the Classic.com link. I was thinking that link was as a value reference...
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We have a member here that was told by those folks that guzzidiag would ruin his ECU. The fellow was elated to learn how to interface with his V11 using guzzidiag and has done it now, numerous times. As have many of us, with no adverse effects. It can be challenging to get it to connect, sometimes.
With your plugs suggesting an "imbalance", it seems prudent to address the throttle body balance next.
IMO, there is no advantage to perform parts of the entire tune-up, but let's work what you are comfortable with, @Drahchir
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At the very minimum, I would adjust the valves and balance the throttle bodies.
Also, check carefully for any intake or exhaust leaks. Even very minor ones can cause trouble.
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5 hours ago, gstallons said:
So , were they fishing rod tools ?
Violin tools. Absolutely maddening to use (certainly for this novice). The drill is to stab the little stick with the point of the s-curved tool and insert it through the narrow "f" hole on the violin's top. If the little stick (sound post) doesn't fall off instantly, you are to deftly turn it upright and stand it between the top and back inside the body at exactly the right spot in relation to the bridge, then extract the instrument.
Since the sound post will fall off multiple times during these attempts, one gets better and better at holding the violin upside down, overhead and rolling it around until the little stick drops out. All while humming Vivaldi.
Or maybe The Devil Went Down to Georgia.
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14 minutes ago, MartyNZ said:
How about tools to repair or make a wooden musical instrument like a violin? Guess #2: tools to make a cane fly fishing rod.
Score! For ten points and the championship , those brass tools are meant to seat the violin sound post (seen in the foreground) between the violin's top and back, through the "F-hole." (Perhaps where the "proctology" comes in
) In just the exact spot in relation to the bridge.
I can attest that this is a task equal to putting a peanut on a moving train with tweezers. While dancing a jig.
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See, there? I knew y'all-boys could have some fun with this.
For What It's Worth , my brother gave me the porkpie hat with a saxophone when I graduated DrCollege.
Yet, no, they are not saxophone tools . . .
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5 minutes ago, activpop said:
Nice! I have my 2003 ST4s for sale now too. Not as sporty as yours, but it is the faster color.
If there is a color faster than red, it must be silver . . .
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I had some fun reading back through this great thread. I am definitely hanging out with the right crowd.
So, worth a bump. Not automotive, but clues are included. What are these tools for?
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I know turning 137,000 miles doesn't seem like much to celebrate. But I'm celebrating, anyway.
( I intended this to be my 20,000th post, but I used that to reference fixing a broken link that @mikev had pointed out. As it should be, I reckon!
)
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1 hour ago, mikev said:
link on forum website under file sharing may need updating.. this has the 404 error
Thanks! Done:
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My original 2000 V11 Sport external fuel pump measures 111mm long by 55mm diameter (across the body where it mounts).
The fuel pump I got from MG Cycle ("replacement for Bosch"/ "Quantum") is 112mm long (body between hose connections) and 52mm diameter.
Three years ago, it was $55US, before shipping/taxes. I never installed it after I found my fuel pump issue was relay related.
[edit: I see the price has not changed ($54.56US). There are no stampings or markings on the part and I see nothing on the website.]
Here is where I got the "Quantum" name:
https://www.highflowfuel.com/fuel-pump-oem-replacement-hfp-603-qfs/
[edit #2: Flow Rate: 190LPH; I could not find a flow specification for the Moto Guzzi external pump.]
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Not sure whether or not that is high raise for your "Moderator" . . .
Oh yeah, oh yeah, uh-oh
What can you do?
What can you do?
With a brat like that always on your back
What can you lose?-
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33 minutes ago, docc said:
In addition to bleeding the clutch, assess the clutch lever travel. Is there excessive "play" in the lever travel before engagement?
I ask because I have rebuilt my clutch master cylinder. Twice. The spring inside can fracture, sometimes into multiple parts . . .
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42 minutes ago, Grim said:
Ok thank you both.
I feel like it would either work or be completely wrong. Rather than a little bit.
Interesting about he external stuff Docc, at one point, thinking I was being sensible, I put the shift lever connector rod back on with the Allen head on the outside and the nyloc nut on the inside ( because it made more sense to actually be able to tighten it). Then it really wouldn't go into first as the nut hit the outer face of the selector plate!! Took me a while and a bit of flaked off paint to realise....
Nothing else is hitting, and it does go into first quite satisfyingly when it does, it just sometimes... Doesn't 😂
In addition to bleeding the clutch, assess the clutch lever travel. Is there excessive "play" in the lever travel before engagement?
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Seems that the OP, @Drahchir, has moved on to his idle issues, hence the change of the topic name.
In that regard: A new map? A Power Commander? No. Really: A "Decent Tune-up."
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The external shift mechanism and "connector rod" should be seen to. Make sure the foot lever is not striking the lower extension of the Frame Side Plate. That would give a "dead feel" trying to get into first.
Once, I did fail to seat one of the cir-clips on one of the two shafts for the toothed gears of the shift plate. Yet, the outcome was that the Neutral Light would not extinguish, rather than difficulty getting into first. Again, this is most likely when the foot lever hits the Frame Side Plate on the downstroke into first gear.
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Navasota Spine Raid has a nice ring to it !
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Dark Art dragged into the light . . .
--->
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Just to follow up, when you install the Chuck/Scud SuperSpring, be certain to take time and perform the Lucky Phil "Shift Improvement" . . .
And, be sure to clean, shim, grease and adjust the Rube Goldberg external shift mechanism . . .
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18 hours ago, gstallons said:
What caused you to come up w/this ?
Not sure of @activpop's motivation, but there is a beautiful GarWood at 2:09-2:14 to contribute to the happy theme . . .
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One aspect that is difficult to interpret is the amount of metal on the drain magnet in 50-100 miles versus what we expect at the typical change interval (12,000 miles?).
If we see 12,000 miles worth of wear in a very short time, that could be telling.
Also, if the hardening of the gear teeth has been damaged from overheating, the wear may accelerate (more and more debris at short intervals). This may be detectable without fully changing the oil every time, but inspecting and cleaning the drain magnet routinely.
Certainly, if the size and nature of the debris changes from the typical "filings" to larger pieces and flakes, the damage to the engagement surfaces would be suspect . . .
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4 hours ago, JGP said:
You show me a picture like that on a mid-May afternoon? I am going back to pruning my blueberries.
Not a bad call. The clutch is a deep dive.
I was thinking it might be worth strapping the clutch lever to the grip and administering some judicious purcussive intervention to the slave cylinder (beat on it). Nothing lost by leaving it strapped overnight and tapping on the slave again . . .
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Thanks for the clarification. When my clutch "didn't work", it would not engage.
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Just to clarify, the clutch will not disengage so that the bike rolls freely or the clutch does not engage such that the bike can transmit the engine's force through the gearbox?
Had a breakdown today. Caught on camera. Any thoughts folks?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Once restarted, also check that the tach is not erratic and the headlamps/brake light/horn work. This fault combination indicates a bad Relay #2 which also supplies the reference voltage for the charging system.