docc
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Posts posted by docc
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8 hours ago, gstallons said:
Is Racecraft unable to supply any springs ?
It should be noted this SuperSpring is available nowhere else. It was specifically and expertly designed and tested by our treasured member @Chuck and diligently produced and stocked by @Scud (The Keeper of the Springs ).
The entire re-engineering backstory is on the 59 pages of this thread. Accept no substitutes.
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"Operators are standing by" . . .
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Removing the slave cylinder is best done with the swingarm removed.
What "clutch issues" are you trouble shooting?
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3 minutes ago, JGP said:
There was a photo following this reply which is no longer active. Is there anyway to repost it? I am trying to get the clutch slave out of my Scura and I am not seeing an easy answer.
Sadly, @Bjorn's outstanding images have been lost to the ether. Removing the the clutch slave cylinder is best achieved with the swingarm removed.
Yet, it begs the question, "Why are you removing the slave cylinder, @JGP?"
View of the rear of the gearbox with the swingarm out (clutch slave at 8:00 from the red circled main electrical ground):
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The only time I have had relay failure (OMRON, even) was from a combined regulator + stator wire failures that (apparently) were throwing some nasty voltage spikes.
Have a close look at the regulator voltages and visually inspect the yellow wiring at the stator under the "alternator cover" . . .
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14 minutes ago, audiomick said:
Ah, that's what they're called. Gotta get me some of them.
Just for fun, besides the misspelling (and I don't mean PORBETTI for BORLETTI ).
Poor Betty . . .
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1 minute ago, audiomick said:
Is that a registered trade mark?
That would be Vague-liar ®
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18 minutes ago, Scud said:
Went for an early evening romp on the Scura. Now that the starting issues are fixed, she decided that I do not see the engine RPM. It just failed. I think I could make a vaguelia guess with a margin of error of +/- 500, but I like seeing the needle.
Gotta figure out if we have a bad connection, or a failed tach. At least it doesn't interfere with the riding.
No other symptoms that could implicate Relay #2 (headlight / horn/ brake light )?
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Try pressing the cap firmly into the tank, then turning the key.
Otherwise, insert the tube of your favorite spray lubricant into the key slot and "fill 'er up." Work the key back and forth gradually increasing force. Perhaps even let it sit overnight and repeat . . .
Good luck with the "new-to-you" Le Mans! You're in the right place to get it sorted!
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8 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
Yea docc, you don't get damage like that with Petes method. Thats a shop press support "gone wrong" situation. As for the weld it up solution I'd pass on that as well due to distortion issues.
Phil
Solutions tend to be evolutionary . . .
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20 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
Were you around when to witness this happening docc? I've machined that flange off and if you look at the image above it's like 5mm thick at the box and about 3mm thick at the periphery. I still have the removed piece in the workshop. It would take some sort of 6 inch bench drop to break a section of that thing off even at the periphery. Now a ham fisted set up in a press I wouldn't doubt but a heat and drop on a wooden bench, hmm.
Phil
This happened to my V11 reardrive at an independent shop with many years of Guzzi experience and was their "tried and true" method to dismantle the Guzzi reardrive. While I did not witness the act, I got "The Call" that things had not gone well attempting to replace the seals and they were sending the unit "out" (that did not go well, either
) and would weld the crack. I asked if the crack was at 7:00 or 9:00 or what? They said, "Yes."
Turns out, the flange split from the top at 11:00 (looking from the right side of the bike), down the back of the flange along the actual housing, to within an inch of the lower edge at 7:00; that close to breaking it off.
I have taken V11 rear drives apart since, myself, without this drop-method. Maybe fine for the Quota drive with the narrow flange, but just a "heads-up" on that the larger "bell" flange of the V11 SpineFrames could be vulnerable.
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I learned, the hard way (from some guys that tried that on my V11 reardrive), that drop-method has the chance of fracturing the broader V11 flange (mine broke).
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20 minutes ago, PJPR01 said:
That's a good version of Tin Pan Alley....I also really like the one from Lucky Peterson...truly an epic version.
And, "for the record" . . .
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"Goin' down to [V'leven] Alleeeeey . . .
See what is goin' on" . . .
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As challenging as the V11 Sport/LeMans tank shape is to fathom whilst integrated with the rest of the original design, it is quite an abomination all by itself!
Might as while mount up a Quat-D exhaust for "balance" . . .
And the battery and the relays and the fuses and the ECU . . . oh, my!
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If you pour something through to rinse the box through the drain hole, does any metal swarf come out that would indicate damage?
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I managed to find this detailed imaged of the brake side emphasizing the "Make-damn-sure Zip-tie " and the location of the "Little ball." Pretty sure, on the clutch side it is a little plastic puck as the switch actuator, but still too easy to let fall out . . .
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I detect a red tinge to the area. Per chance was the oil in it RedLine ShockProof Heavyweight?
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3 hours ago, p6x said:
I did not specify it, but you obviously need to add a fuse between the Relay and the Solenoid;
As for the relays, on this forum, there is a huge discussion about which and what. I can't look it up now, as I have a problem on my Quota that needs urgent looking....
This takes you to the "answer" post with links to the latest "Best (micro) Relay."
The Pickers Components narrowly better than the CIT:
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If it "clicks", it is not the clutch bullet connectors. If they are at fault, there will be > nothing <.
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4 hours ago, Ali Fra said:
I have found this relay in Norway, I think it can replace the Song Chuan, what do you think?
- BOSCH 0 986 AH0 304
Also, Do you have any simple diagram that explains the re-routing?
Here is one by @Kiwi_Roy courtesy os @Weegie's DropBox:
Yet, because your steering position affects starting, do not overlook the faulty connections of the clutch switch at the nefarious "bullet connectors" at the left side of the frame spine beneath the tank.
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2000 Quota for sale on FB, $3200, not mine.
in Older models
Posted
My TIMEX "is still ticking" . . .