docc

On the No Crank, sounds like clutch switch bullet connectors on the left side of the frame. I have serviced those (clean, treat, crimp, seal) with the fairing and tank in place, but it’s fiddly. There is a link with image in the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. You can also rotate the bars side to side while holding in the clutch and start button to see if it engages. [edit: added links and image]

Just curious @Twin AH and @leroysch how are your plans coming along for this S'SSR?

There were quite a lot of 2002 “carry overs” like yours, gstallons, identifiable by the chin pad, white face Veglia, and rougher driveline black paint common to the ‘02. Might be interesting to look at your production date on the headstock plate...

Gary says, "Right past my waist. Standard position for a /2."

One of Lucky Phil's images from his post, linked above:

Longer, for certain, and probably narrower toward the front extension . . .

Yeah, that image has an odd aspect ratio. Looking forward to more images of that V11 from KINDOY2!

Hahahah! Thought about our mirror thing when I took that shot . . . I wanted to ask the guy if they really did anything . . .

That is one amazing build. So many awesome touches and features. The best sounding BMW twin I've ever heard . . .

Legnano e titanio !!

Shakedown rides begin . . .

S'xteenth Spouth'n SpineRaid shakedown rides are underway in earnest . . .

Maybe I'm interpreting this wrong, but wouldn't this mean 30mm across the flats? " . . . enough space to machine to get a 30 mm wrench on it to tighten. "

Just concerned me that spanning the hex flats with a 25mm spanner, rather than KINDOY2's 30 mm, could make for some very thin walls . . .

What are the thread dimensions of the stem?

Now we know where all the Scura went!

Perfect, Marty! That is such excellent documentation of the inside of the bevel box! Here is what I saw lifting out the flange /crown gear and setting the spacer aside: It is very telling how much corrosion can occur on the inside of the washer and around the spacer. The ruined reardrive I have is testimony that this infiltration, through the outboard needle cage, can extend to the nose of the crown wheel and ruin the sealing surface. Keep those outboard needle bearings, inner race, and washers well greased at every tire change, y'all!:

The outer perimeter of the washer is evidently resting against the outside of the case where the race you split is seated. FWIW, this spacer is also tight. I couldn't center it with finger pressure, but had to drift it to the center.

@aermacchi250, I pulled the flange from this drive and it comes out with the crown gear. Then you can simply take the spacer out and the inside of the washer is in full view through the inner seal. The washer is lying against the outer needle bearing and race, but is not captured. Yet, it can only be lifted about a cm before contacting the inner seal which is captured by the inner bearing. Plenty of access to tap it back straight, I suppose. Be careful replacing the flange as to not damage or pinch the big O-ring.

Eh, The la-BOR-a-tory . . .

I have a sacrificial reardrive in the shop I can remove the flange and peer within, but likely not before late this weekend.

I got distracted looking at your line-up. Wow, bud, nice!!

I'm trying to recall if that is the same looking out from the inside where you could get a purchase on it with a drift . . .

I seem to recall just being able to see the inner edge of that washer though the deepest bearing's inner race, maybe a few mm?

Ah, makes sense.Yeah that's a deep dive into the reardrive, its bearings, and seals. Do you think it's dented badly enough to interfere with the seal or bearing within?