docc

See there! I stand corrected already. "The Mighty Scura," even . . . I was thinking the other day that I've seen almost all of the V11 variants, even down to different color combos. (okay, red Ballabios, but not a grey one.) Not sure I'll ever see a Scura R. I reckon those may be the very rarest of them all. While I've seen several Rosso Corsa, I don't think I've seen a Nero Corsa . . .

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I know the developer really well. Really, really well. Not connected with this site, but I’ll ping him right now.

Correct me if I'm wrong ( I already know I can trust you guys on that ), but there are a handful of V11 I don't think I have ever seen at a South'n SpineRaid: Scura, Nero Corsa, or Scura R Maybe they were there, but all so dark I just couldn't see them . . .

Short answer: a light illuminated by the wiring harness that is everything but Fuel Injection/Ignition (that is a completely separate wiring harness through fuses 1&2 and Relays 4&5. It is common to power the "Go_Winkie" from the last fuse location (Fuse 8 on early V11/ power for the electric petcock).

I put mine away with the other cables.

More bar-ends, I know, but this Norton posted by @swooshdave in hammershaug's thread is a real stunner, IMO...

Yep. And in lots of the early published materials. Perhaps a very few of the 1999 models released in Europe could have had them leftover from the Sport 1100/1100 Sport-i ? Otherwise, seems all the US V11 got the Sachs. I went looking for images and posts about the broken eye and ran out of steam (or patience). Still, pretty sure it is the swingarm attachment that is vulnerable. That is the pivot bolt that should be regularly cleaned and greased.

So, the original Sachs used throughout the V11 range does have a white spring, but not built by White Power/WP (as was fitted to earlier Sport 1100) were fitted to V11 (as far as I know), even though early press materials said that. I am pretty sure it is the lower (rear) attachment at the swingarm that is most susceptible as that pivot resides just above the rear tire and exposed to the elements.

Kind of you, but just 'cause I've had this bike a while and rolled some miles still doesn't make me an expert. There is an improved tensioner. If ever I had to go into the "timing chest" (that is usually to address leaking, especially on the "wrinkle" black cases), I suppose I would upgrade the tensioner. I just don't recall any real issues with the chain. Lucky Phil (as I recall) did report improved running when he switched to a gear set. When I see the kinds of things done to this low mile V11 (timing chain, power commander, shrouded fuel pump, etc.), it always makes me think someone never really got it running right addressing the simplest known issues (Decent Tune-up, High Current Relays, Grounding, and Ignition/Run Switch service go a long way).

I wasn't aware they ever were?

"Kill" Switch gets power from the Sidestand Switch with stand up and from the gearbox Neutral Switch/Relay#3 in neutral. Since yours died in both neutral and in gear, worth addressing the Run/"kill" Switch. Easy to get to, inspect->clean->.Caig DeOxit . . . You have tightened your relay bases as Kiwi_Roy has helped us to understand?

Solder joints have been found failed or failing at the ignition switch. Also, later V11 run the starting current through the switch (instead of the early V11 using a relay) which stresses the switch further. It is very common to find the contact grease dirty/hardened and interfering with contact.

Died while riding along in gear? Shifting to neutral bypasses the Sidestand Switch. Inspect, clean, and service the Run (“kill”) Switch and its connections?

Nope

Correct, faulty clutch switch is only for starting. Nothing wrong with having a proper Go_Winkie. Kiwi_Roy likes to say it separates V11 electrical troubleshooting in half. Perhaps this is a good time to inspect, clean, and service the Ignition Switch. . .

What were the issues?

+1 on that...

You can let the V11 go, but you have to stay, buddy....

So, a 4P bag? Prosciutto, Provolone, Pepperoncini, and Pellegrino?

Pretty sure I fall closer to @swooshdave’s phrase: “It takes a special kind of crazy.”

I could never get my (pretty decent Triplett) voltmeter be sensitive enough in millivolts to catch a bad TPS. Yet, checking resistance in a sensitive Ohm range caught a couple bad TPS over the years. One showed a consistent *jump* in the resistance, both up and down, at a particular point of the throttle plate. The other went open at a particular point (no contact).

Lonelec in UK has been, perhaps, the most reliable cable source over time. This link is for the set of two (including both the adapter cable and the FTDI chipped OBD->USB): https://www.lonelec.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_20&product_id=51 Regarding the comment on "smooth transition," this refers to checking resistance across the TPS while slowly opening and closing it. The values should transition smoothly with no jumps, skips, or opens (broken contact) that would indicate a faulty TPS.

"It's a special kind of crazy." -swooshdave

Good advice! I made sure this got added to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist! What are the currently available shock replacements for the V11? Is the Öhlins unit available once again?