docc

How many people are ahead of me on the "If you ever decide to sell it . . ." list?

Thanks, Jason! I got a spare set of Tekno to replace my originals that really show their miles. I'm going to have to refurbish them replacements as one has a fractured internal support plate and they are both that funky pale purple. Planning on posting my solution for replacing the support plate. Thanks, again, for the post!

Correct. Classic signs of Relay #2 (and Relay#1 on early V11). Even “good” relays can be under rated. If the battery is a PC545, check the voltage sequence and perform conditioning as indicated. Maybe she’s just “gettin’ to know ya!”

"Stone" can mean more than one thing, but if it is a 2003, I presume this is a V11 "EV" with the 5 speed gearbox?

The 888 looks to have a zinc chromate side case. Great images! Thanks for sharing the recollections.

Right? I see that the brake torque rod on the Daytona racer is likely tied to the swingarm (not the frame) just like the drum brake on my GB500. Seems that is solved on the V11 with the extended caliper bracket that is located by the pivot bolt through the swingarm (later V11 have a clip through the inboard tip of that bolt to prevent it backing out and sending us halfway to a bad day . . .

Looking closely at the images in the article Mikko posted, seems that Daytona racer has a chassis rod on both sides?

So, the Moto Guzzi reaction rod appeared on the SpineFrame Daytona c. 1992? When I had decided to move on from my café '75 GoldWing because I had run out of ground clearance (and it weighed 650 lbs/295 kg), I rode a GreenFrame 1000S. I had heard of "shaft jacking", but never experienced it before that. The GW didn't do it for some reason (maybe those 650 pounds!). It was one of the things that kept me away from the 1000S; did not feel good to me rolling on out of the corners trying to stand itself up and go straight. Gosh, but it was a lusty looking thing, though . . .

"Cadwell" . . . I had to look that up. Just nuts!

I recall being instructed that control arm bushings on a passenger car should be torqued with the vehicle weight bearing, not with the suspension hanging, to index the bushings at ride height. Not sure if this is applicable to the V11 reaction rod if the bushings are designed to be part of the kinetic chain?

Not knocking it, just trying to understand it (and share that the front bolt could get neglected). I totally neglected to consider the rear tire as part of the "system!"

Did the first get "repurposed?"

Funny, after tampering with my Sport from new, I started looking at the yellow marking paint as "don't forget to mess with this one too!"

Heh, well, my parts catalog says "plug block." I'm sure that sounds better in Italian...

I'm thinking by "foam strip" you are referring to the "chin pad" of early tanks? I found this thread by @cash1000 , but can see what you mean by making the ring stand out more. Also, be aware that deforming the chin pad can make them prone to loss by compromising the attachments underneath:

By "transmission", Cabernet, do you refer to the gearbox or the rear(bevel)drive? I ask because the torque reaction/chassis rod only connects from the reardrive to the frame. Otherwise, the movement of the swingarm is damped by the shock absorber while the drive line forces (acceleration/deceleration) are damped by the cush drive in the V11 reardrive hub as well as the "cush drive" inside the gearbox itself. My understanding (that is always evolving . . .) is that the torque reaction/chassis rod checks rotation movement of the reardrive by resisting motion along its axis (not rotation of the bushes) to limit, or eliminate, the tendency of shaft drive/ bevel box bikes' rear suspension to rise and fall rolling on and off the throttle. BTW, your solution to having these bushes made is stellar, IMO!

Yeah, Cabernet had some manufactured and offered to the community back in April, 2020. Others I know have made them from Delrin. Here is Tom M's solution from 2017. Is there any factory procedure for installing the reaction rod/ "chassis rod" on the Daytona, Sport 1100, Centauro, or 1100 Sport-i? (I'm pretty sure not all those models have the same cast reaction rod, only the Centauro and 1100Sport-i.) These bolts look to be 10mm with a locking nut ("NyLoc"). in the absence of a specific torque specification, should they really be torqued to 50 Nm like any other 10mm fastener? No doubt, that much torque would pinch the forward frame bracket and "capture" the inner sleeve of the bush.

Thanks, again, Lucky Phil, for the thoughtful reply. True, I've been expecting the rubber to disappear from my bushes for a long while. I cannot find anything on the "chassis rod" in the Workshop manual other than how to release the rear pivot bolt to remove the reardrive.

Rose ("Heim") joints always seemed a good idea for this application. I know it has been done by some. FWIW, I didn't leave the bolts totally loose, but also did not crank them down as tight as possible. The rod will still stand straight out on its own, but will rotate under hand pressure. Maybe there is an actual tightening spec in the manual, but not likely. At the very least, I should not have let all that corrosion build up in there.

Many of us have been aware that the rubber part of the torque reaction rod can deteriorate or tear and become loose. It has always mystified me that the bushing appears captured by the "pivot" bolt creating (what has seemed to me) something like a "torsion rod" that would interfere, even limit, suspension movement. Seems to me it would be better for the spring and damping to work without that interference. With the reardrive off and swingarm out, my torque rod has always just stuck straight out like a . . . uh, well, stuck straight out from the bracket on the frame cross member. Sliding the rear pivot bolt through without the reardrive, I realized there is clearance for the torque rod bushing to actually pivot without "capturing" the bushing and stressing the rubber part. Upon removing the front bolt it occurred to me that I can't recall ever pulling it out . . . "OH, that's why [ it doesn't pivot ]" . . . Cleaned it up, BelRay Waterproof Grease, and only set the tightness on the locking nut to allow the torque rod to pivot without clamping the bushing hard into the bracket. Proper Witness Protection Marks to monitor and a promise to add this to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist . . . Friends don't let friends let their pivot bolts seize up!

I've been looking over my TechPrep on the Sport for the SpineRaid: two months and about two thousand miles. Got some good things done, made a few discoveries, and got snuck up on that once . . . Down to to a rear tire (I don't want to be THAT guy, again! ) and staving off the Waddington Effect. Four weeks out! Cheers, y'all!

I copied the "Image Location" from your duplicate thread and pasted into your reply, then deleted the duplicate thread. (Hope that's okay, bud . . . )

@swooshdave . . . . And . . . so . . . what of this swoosh'stang?

Good plan! That, Caig Deoxit®, and heat shrink on all the regulator connectors. The new stator has spade connectors to the regulator which feel quite a bit more positive in their connection than the "bullet" connectors that never felt tight. Having groomed all the connectors behind the front subframe together made the stator/regulator swap very approachable without having to pull the tank.

Of course, @Guzzi2Go and @luhbo were entirely correct that in spite of all the little things I tried, the battery light flicker at idle after riding remained. Until I finally changed the regulator. Although the charging remained 14.2V or above, it appears the old regulator had "failed in a special way" and was "on its way out" with continuity developing between the red charging wire and the case. I never thought of monitoring for continuity there, but it makes sense. New regulator: no more flicker.