docc

Right, as I understand, Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) is the correct 5-pin with both NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) contacts. It appears the 1C7T is the correct SPDT.

Here is the Shindy info. Again, not sure about availability these days. The HyperPro looks awesome!

Yes, the first position is 5-pin. The sealing is insignificant. Seal them yourself if you like, it's easy. When talking about so little money, why not just spend the extra few dollars and get properly rated relays? Some report they have run the cheap Chinese or even factory Siemens without issue. Yet, I have seen and watched reports of numerous relay related issues. Especially with 10amp/20amp ratings.

The ignition switch is not hard to remove from and disassemble to inspect (and repair if necessary).

Good question! Sounds very much like what NicoNZ is experiencing. Has your bike been apart or worked on lately?

Yes, or a (commonly found) broken wire at the Ignition Switch making contact where it should not.

Oh, hey, you are in the right pace to be fussing with your V11! These folks rock! The original Bitubo dampers were (are) pretty awful about leaking. I replaced mine years ago with a nicely made Shindy (Japanese) unit. That shop is no longer, but thay can probably be hunted up. I'll look up links and model number later if you like . . .

Makes sense. Pretty sure there are other grounds indicated on the wiring diagram that actually are terminals at the battery, but the diagram does not make that clear. Wouldn't it be great if this were as simple as one of the ground wires got pushed out of sight? Still, must agree with Lucky Phil that a broken wire at the Ignition Switch can be the culprit.

I wish that made sense to me. Pretty sure there was more than one or two negative terminals on my RedFrame. I know the later wiring is different. [edit: two plus the main ground=3 on the RedFrame Sport.]

Perhaps someone with factory wiring on their 2003 can confirm the number of negative terminals? I would have thought three: one for the Fuel/Ignition harness, one for the Lighting/Switching harness, and the big one to the back of the gearbox . . .

You know, as much as I like the way the bridge sets off the Sport in that image, this amazing backdrop is awesome:

My redneck stiffener and load-out support. This is generally my heavy side with air compressor, jumper cables, tools, voltmeter, blah-blah-blah . . .

Are you determined to stay with the OEM Bitubo?

I'm thinking it turned out pretty okay, buddy . . .

Right? And realize the Lighting/Switching Harness changed once. Pretty sure the Fueling/Ignition Harness remained the same except for the fuel pump connections. (Pretty sure . . .)

With both the Fuel/Ignition and the separate Lighting harness affected, it is either something central (mixed up or missing battery terminals/ something amiss under the fuse block). Or it is more than one thing contributing. Battery terminals are a great start place. Protect your ECU case from a stray spark from the positive side! Did the main ground to the back of the gearbox get removed and not replaced?

We'll see about durability. Thanks @KINDOY2 for putting me onto the SEM product! The Krylon just scratched off after a time of use.

Someone else recently asked if the bolt pattern of the fuel filler caps is the same between the early (chin-pad) tanks and the later, longer tanks with the internal pump/filter . . .

Today's project! Taped off the buckles and zippers last night. I've used common spray paint in the past, but this time KINDOY2 helped me source some proper product: SEM® Color Coat, Landau Black: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-15013 "Purple-b-gone!"

How about it @mznyc , progress? Looks like cosmo is having similar issues . . .

I was editing my reply with more info while you posted. Lots of simple things to work through, but good to get guzzidiag to connect so you can verify your CO Fuel Trim is zero. Also, critical to baseline the TPS, with the throttle plate fully closed, at 157mV. (Both of these steps are part of the "Decent Tune-up" and every other complete tuning method used.)

nope. Make sure your Run ("kill") Switch stays in the Run position and use the Ignition Switch. For the model selection, use your year range LeMans. Simple enough to delete the PC III and see what changes. So many little things can add up to give us that annoying "pop."

So, I built a replacement internal support plate for this broken one. This material is pretty brittle and, evidently, this one took an impact at some point. I decided on this 5-ply 1/8" cutting mat material thinking it wouldn't split or crack. I got a decent facsimile, yet it is not as rigid, or thick, as I would like. If you are running Tekno bags, take time to inspect the internal rigid panels from time to time or after an impact. Especially the deepest mounting panel.

If the 1100 Sport-i uses one relay (like the V11) for fuel injectors, fuel pump, and ignition coils, that one will definitely benefit from the High Current OMRON. I seem to recall there are fewer relays in the Sport-i (3?), but IDK for sure. For any micro ISO relay application, I can't see any downside to using the High Current OMRON. Do the Sport-i relays have the same base configuration? https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html

Well, then, I'll be first on this list, "If you ever decide to sell it . . . I'm taking you out behind the shed and beat some sense into you!"