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Everything posted by docc
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GU30157400 https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186
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Amazing, sticky tooth-mesh ("pressure angle" ) grease. Doesn't fling off the hub like my (otherwise trusted) BelRay WaterProof grease. [representative image. The squeamish should avert their eyes] . . .
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Good find on the breather hose: yes, replace! The hub area does not look like a gear oil leak to me. I would clean up the hub area, grease the teeth (Klüber Staburags?) and monitor the area to the next tire change.
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Plus enough hammers and a Kennedy machinist chest to make us brothers!
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Don't! (Do it!). Don't. Do it. Seems a little conflicted. . . Don't do it!
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Put the 86 back where it was on the High Beam relay and leave the Low Beam 86 where you moved it that restored Low Bean function . . .
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Done. Thanks for the effort to share these treasures with us, @Twin AH !
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Regardless of the relays, how could the low beam come on with the Ignition switch "off" unless the switch were faulty?
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This is the image, albeit inverted, with the printed diagram showing two 87 terminals. A later image reveals there are two of these relays added, likely identical (?) . . .
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That really does not look like a bad attempt at adding headlight relays. This was not about starting, but taking load off the substandard relays the early V11 were delivered with along with numerous marginal attempts to fit actual High Current micro relays. Problem since solved. It is likely one of those added relays is low beam and the other is high (easy to verify). It is *possible* one the added relays is for the start circuit, but also fairly easy to see if any of that wiring is on the "start" side, not lights. Those "packs of poo tickets" would certainly benefit from a thorough cleaning, treatment (DeOxit?), and tightening. Curious how that, alone might affect the behavior . . .
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Great idea - some underseat images . . .
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That sequence is my understanding of the factory circuit. More likely that whoever wired that headlight relay cocked it up . . .
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Bingo, @Weegie! Good catch! Modified wiring to be investigated. Or bypassed. My Sport used to have added relays for the headlamps. The better solution turned out to be a "VintageCars" LED.
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The "monkey paw trap" is certainly different from the early to later V11. Those parts will not swap from a Ballabio into a 2001 Rosso Mandello tail section. *Pretty sure* the mounting is the same, though . . .
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Certainly a good move to upgrade to the highest quality High Current micro relays available. Not sure what is available in AUS, but here are the two best available most recently (I hope I get these links right the first time): CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X That anything would come on with the ignition switch off casts aspersions on the wiring soldered to the switch. It is not that hard to take out and inspect and is also a known fail point on the V11.
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St. Augustine, Florida, USA Anyone we know? https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2001-Moto+Guzzi-V11-5034812789
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Just excellent, learning about "Cutting Crew ". You guys take me back . . . Leon Redbone opened for Tom Waits in the very intimate Tampa Theater, November 1978. Redbone was like part of the audience, but onstage performing. He kept stopping and taking "Polaroids" of the audience, then stopping again later to look at the photos saying something like, "Onnnh, yeeeah, huuuughh . . ." Waits came on like a ghost from a street corner we have all been on. Brilliant. Haunting. Waits.
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Thanks to @audiomick for posting the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. There is also this compendium of potential tasks to consider:
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Not video, but here is the approach to the front U-joint Zerk from the front using an adjustable angle tip turned 90º (or less): Your only other alternative:
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I used a laser for that purpose and found the swingarm within thousandths of being centered in the Frame Side Plates. I would, now, put hat offset down to method accuracy limitations. One South'n Spine Raid, we measured the offset of all the SpineFrames present (six or eight, I suppose) and found the settings all over the place. I settled on "centered" with the pins backed of just a touch from bottoming so as to not deflect the bearings laterally. YMMV