docc

I don't want my P-51 spiraling into the bleachers!

"4. Torque the nut to the standard torque listed for that size, ride, carry tools, and check the witness marks you made. 1 mile, then 5 miles, then 20 miles. If no rotation of the nut, you should have adequate locking." Haha, yeah, you can see I marked the nut for that purpose. But, jeez, I don't need that kind of noise in my head trying to ride, navigate, and be responsible to the riders behind. So, I ordered a Guzzi replacement washer and sourcing new lock nuts locally for front and rear. Mine have been off and on dozens of times.

[The web gives me the heebie-jeebies] "A P-51 Mustang airplane collided with the airport ramp in the spectator box seating area following a loss of control during the National Championship Air Races. The investigation found that the trim tab attachment screws could be rotated through the nuts by hand, and the fiber inserts were visibly worn and displayed the full thread form. The degraded nuts allowed the screws to repeatedly loosen at race speeds, . . ." Later on that page, "When in doubt, throw it out."

When I replaced my rear axle, I also tried to replace the lock nut and washer. The nut had to come from Italy, so I bailed. Now, it seems the thin washer has >gane ryte agly I suppose if this is the only thing I've lost in all the things I've had apart on this bike in the last year, that's *not too bad*. (Bad, but "not too bad") So, I sourced a 14 gauge "machine bushing" in SAE. But it stands the nut off more than the original, thinner axle washer. I've ordered a factory part (95004219), but is the locking nut safe to run in this state? At what point should these lock nuts be replaced?

Yeah, I was only answering the " . . . and bag supports . . ." part. Others know about the various rear racks. i'm sure we'll hear something pretty soon.

The pannier supports are the first generation Moto Guzzi V11 accessory pieces that carry the Tekno expandable, semi-rigid soft bags:

The bevel box I am overhauling will have a little NAS516-1 recessed grease nipple in the housing which will allow me to pump an occasional small squirt of grease into the cavity between that needle bearing and captive axle spacer washer. Looking forward to a photo of that!

Having had the privilege of installing, running, and inspecting this secondary reardrive, I must emphasize, again, how important it is to seal the right side of the bevelbox from moisture, nastiness, and road grime. This starts inboard of the swingarm and includes the exposed needle bearing cage and its vulnerable races. My early Sport did not have the washer installed there. Absolutely make sure yours has that washer over the needle cage. Grease it all really well. This time, I used the Klübar Staburags to prevent anything form getting in. Another V11 Achilles' Heel revealed!

Hey, so, yeah, there is a particular flavor of satisfaction to tear something down and find a definitive explanation for the problem.

If this new seal is effective in the original reardrive, I'll pursue restoring the backup reardrive. Taking the housing to a full 100ºC/200ºF made a huge difference. The frozen bearing fell in and within fifteen seconds could not be budged. Left to my own, I would not have been patient enough to get it that hot before reaching for the hammer. Riding the Sport to work this afternoon with fingers crossed . . . Thanks, again, everyone for the insights, instruction, and encouragement! Y'all do totally rock!

Da'gum Gumption Trap.

I am not confident I can ever get this nose to seal . . . bummer . . .

[Thanks, again, to everyone for helping me sort this out and understand it.]

That might be a sequence thing: - years of slowly rusting in a oil free cavity, then wet with oil from a seal that begins to leak. Interesting, the inside of the crown wheel "nose" is not bathed in the gear oil (normally). This explains why my leak looked so "fouled" (dirty) while the oil in the drive is totally clean (and blue!) It seems that letting your right outboard needle cage go dry, and rusty and bad, lets unfortunate elements get to the inner seal and ruin it. Look at MartyNZ's Pic #2. The inside of that nose is dry. As it should be. (Mine is soaked on gearaoil). One more heads-up that we have to service, grease and seal the right side "needle bearing cage" and prevent moisture infiltration from there. Lest your axle spacer becomes a rusty mess and finally fouls the inner seal . . .

Axle should be dry of gearoil. Only lube on the axle should be whatever grease you smeared on it the last wheel installation. This is my understanding.

Yes I think so. An oil leak at the big seal on the LH side of the box would not let oil into the cavity that the axle passes through. But an oil leak at the RH seal would flood the axle cavity and come out at the axle on the RH side, and around the spline on the LH side (then out onto your wheel). That spacer should be dry (or rusty like the spare bevel box I'm cleaning up). Was your axle wet with oil as you removed it? Yessir, wet axle. And rusty axle spacer. (How does that happen?) The axle space fits much tighter than my original box. Perhaps why this one was not dripping out the right side?

I mean, what good is planning a ride without pulling your V11 down the week ahead? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15908&p=231744

So, are you selling a set or looking for replacements?

So, is the inner seal the only source for where this leak is appearing? (along the axle, spilling into the junction of the crown wheel and rear wheel drive hub before slinging out) Like, what have I found here?

Haha . . . well, not sure what they actually sell for. Plus, the ones in the Classifieds are black, not the carbon fiber wrap.

As I recall, the factory cans are a carbon fiber wrap and not sold cf. That may help with expectations on value. Just last week, a member posted a pair of factory canisters for $100US.

Yessir. I think that was in 2012. That lasted over twenty thousand miles. (Thanks, again, for that!) That original reardrive had so many issues, I decided to mount this used one with half the miles. I'm hoping to install the inner seal and realize success. I appreciate both you and Marty sharing how to get that bearing out and in for access to the seal.

Truly! Thanks, Marty!!

Pete, you refer to the right side/ outboard "needle bearing cage"? I did not think it was load bearing, but the replacement box "sleeve" was in bad shape, so I substituted the sleeve from my original box. Maybe a case of stacked tolerances?

That was a joy to watch! A genuine privilege to share in a good man's space!