docc

I'm certainly hoping Friday evening's reverie will cement some natural groups for Saturday's riding. One member has asked me for the Cherohala>Franklin Loop that we've ridden in the past and I emailed him screen shots of the route from Garmin BaseCamp. I also have that route in Garmin .gpx if anyone wants it (pm me and I'll email it). While we also once rode to the Guzzi dealer in Dahlonega, I understand they have closed up shop.

That's awesome! I would have never considered this method. Yet, what is "washing soda?"

Interesting point about the idle value. Seems I find a lot of V11 are idled rather low (IMO) which can be compounded by inaccurate tachometers. My Sport has always been *happier* at a higher idle at which I "believe" it charges better, pumps more oil, and is more "stable." Excepting that I would rather enjoy a lumpy cam-lope idle, I don't think there is a downside to keeping the idle on the high side.

That's just cool to say!

It was originally sourced for a U.S. Army ordinance motor pool in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. I've used it since the 70s for everything metric including a couple Folksvaagens, a Merkur XR4Ti (Ford Sierra), my Hondas and, of course, the V11 Sport. I was even able to source a replacement 6mm open end that I had mistreated and broken. The Hammerite blue 500 gram machinist's hammer in the first picture is from this set. I had refinished the hammer and planned to refinish the entire box, but now I think I should leave it alone (?)

I'm lovin' the coffee table!

Interesting. Looking over my box of Gedore Vanadium hand tools, c.1960, that came to me from my father and brother, it occurred to me: So many of my tools put my mind to All of the people that have ever been at my aid.

It goes to the dealer today so they can do diagnostics and make some attempt at improving it. Confidence levels are less than high.

That's funny . . . my littl'st ball-peen has to stay in a toolbox well away from the other *proper hammers!*

While the drifts do intrigue, what is the well worn cylindrical mallet?

*Beware the man with more than one ball-peen . . ."

oooh - yeah . . . . I'm not sure I'm allowed over there . . . This isn't even my V7 . . .

Has the swing arm been removed and replaced on the V11? A misaligned swing arm (rear to front tire contact alignment) could contribute to a weave.

The local dealer seems pretty clueless. (Why am I not surprised? ) guzzidiag is fussy about connecting. Are there improvements afoot for guzzidiag and the V7 ?

I've long (half) joked that any photo posted of a Guzzi in a shop has a hammer in it somewhere. I know that my Sport has known most of my hammers over its time. Would it be some good fun to share some images of the tools we enjoy and that our Guzzis rely upon?

A proper Kiwi_Roy Go_Winkie! I had one occasion where the Sport hesitated to start. Noticed the Go_Winkie was dark, cycled the Run Switch, Go_Winkie on and varoooom!

Truly. Where is this mystery bolt? If yours fell out, we all ought to have a look at ours . . .

Neither the original K100 (of which I've owned 2) or the V11 Sport have linked brakes. Naturally the the rear braking is more effective on the Eldo and Cali as they are both effectively cruisers ( in modern terms for the sake of the argument) and carry their C of G much lower and further rearward than a sports bike. As I pointed out earlier with these type of bikes the rear brake is a genuine aid to stopping as they transfer much less weight to the front wheel under heavy braking. For this reason they will also generally skid the front tire in a panic brake scenario even on grippy tarmac without any steering or lean inputs. On the other hand a modern sports bike under the same conditions the front wheel will simply stop dead and it will throw you over the bars. It wont skid or slide under extreme braking because the higher C of G is the limiting factor not the ultimate grip from the front tire. So push it to the max and the front wheel will simply stop dead, rotate around the front contact patch and you're on your way to a painful encounter. Don't think this is only at low speed either its the same deal at very fast speeds also as many track accidents have shown using road legal and slick tires. In my view linked brakes were a "fashion trend" with theoretical advantages that weren't born out in practice, like forks with anti dive. They were actually counter productive to braking because they reduced the transfer of weight to the front wheel and reduced fork dive which actually helped stop the rear wheel from leaving the ground due to lowered C of G. Lasted a couple of years on the track and riders realised it was useless. That's why I mentioned earlier that if your wearing out rear pads on your V11 and the braking system is in good shape then you have a riding style issue you need to address because you are either unconsciously dragging the rear brake or over using it. Ciao I agree completely and respect the experience reflected in this post, and all that Lucky Phil brings to this forum. Yet, I would, again, add that there are several mechanical factors that compromise the V11 rear brake in addition to the rider dragging or over-braking the rear. The pistons do stick and need to be cleaned and freed regularly. The bleed nipple is on the bottom and needs to be turned up to bleed. Bleed early and often! The actuator for the master cylinder can be maladjusted and keep the master under pressure (as if the foot pedal were being lightly applied). And the actuator for the master cylinder can get terrifically corroded under the rubber boot. Just a few (mechanical) things to see to while we learn to keep our big foot off the brake lever.

Подшипники задних колес были недавно изменены. Я проверил передних когда я отложили колеса, они были в полном порядке. Мне советовали, что, вероятно, из-за падения фиксированных вилы повернуты в тройном локона. Будет ли check его, когда это возможно. Именно в лузового один, но это Shyndy плотнее, чем оригинальный bitubo Close as I can get (with my rusty Russian!): "It was a loose one, but it Shindy denser than the original bitubo" Even with my Shindy, I keep it all the way loose. Also, low rear tire pressure or weak rear spring can give high speed weave.

Also, loosen the setting on the steering damper to the softest position.

That is a great idea. Not sure how to best accomplish it, though?

Aha! It appears we're running "neck and neck!" Well done, especially with your shorter riding season. Unless you're ice racing the Lemans?

If we ever have to do one of those again, it will be under cover of darkness . . . :ninja: I mean, look at the first picture. You know a repair is out of control when it draws a crowd of imaging devices and some dude pulls up a rocking chair.

"Pre-detonation" from ethanol fuel?

Well done! This is a "must do." Also, consider cleaning the pistons with brake cleaner and working them in and out alternately until they move evenly. Adjust the foot lever actuation so there is some play at the master cylinder and inspect under the rubber boots at the master to be sure all is clean.