docc

The Fender's been on for a little over an hour, played it some in that time at about 1/4 volume and the output tube temps look almost identical (~340ºF) I do have an owner's manual, so can look at the bias control (the manual is not very informative) and read further on the "red-plating" business. Thanks, gents!

This is a new experience for me! How would I know of the "red plating?" Is it visible on the glass like "silvering" on a light bulb? Seems like the other output tube was ~275ºF, but I'll recheck it in a few minutes after it warms up. I understand this second gen Bassman RI, has a bias adjustment, but I don't know where it is or how to set it . . . If it had a TPS and a tight tappet, I'd be all in!

Having all 5-pin relays is the answer to moving them around and mistakenly putting a 4-pin in the front position. After moving or replacing relays and loosing (or rearranging) my labeling, I put the labels on the flat of the tail section beside the relay positions.

It's a little chilly, now, here in The Den. But those 6L6 outputs heat up to some serious temps. Should I worry that one of them gets to some 325ºF? Seems pretty cozy to me!

I'd be all about a fresh tune and jiggly valves. There are some polarized opinions about the [oil] head temperature sensor and how that suffers from high ambient temps. guzzzidiag?

That's a good description! Even then, the standard ECU map runs them just fine. With a proper tune!

1999-2002 all the same.

A V7 NTX? So, what of EICMA? I missed it (again). Any pics of the Guzzi display?

There are some things that just require manning up and one of those is how you look when you mount the bike and pull away, especially from the pub. You need to suck it up on those occasions and look totally at ease. Again cycling nicks under the jeans/pants.....descrete and no sore ass. Ciao The secret chamois crotch . . .

That is some impressive archiving! How many does that make in all?

You can locate the TPS and its two Torx fasteners on the top of the right throttle body? With your breakout harness installed, and ALL of the right side linkage and right side idle stop screw, and fast idle linkage released, you can loosen and very carefully rotate the TPS watching the millivoltage. I use a tiny hammer or the T-handle of a hex drive wrench to bump the TPS. As you tighten it, the reading changes, so you'll have to fuss about with it until it settles at the 150mV. Reattach everything and set the idle using the left throttle stop screw (either looking at TPS voltage (.525mV +) or use guzzidiag in degrees opening (3.6º as I recall). This is just a portion of the total tune-up, does this help?

Ah, I understand. I looked through the tutorial on TPS setting and Throttle Body Balance in "How To . . .", but there are no photos. Have you looked at that thread? EDIT: In fact, I just looked through the Breakout Harness thread and there are no photos there either. No doubt, i think it's high time for a fresh Tune-Up thread, incorporating the breakout harness and guzzidiag. It's on my To-Do list, really it is!

AFAIK, guzzidiag doesn't read the synchronization. Synching might elevate the idle slightly, but otherwise all of the specs should be set first: Plugs, Valves, TPS baseline, idle degrees open, and CO. (Only those last two are guzzidiag functions)

No, TB synch is not done through guzzidiag. Separate procedure using the vacuum taps on the intakes and the "white knob" on the throttle linkage rod with some mind to the air bleed screws. Synchronization is the last step in the tune-up with the motor at operating temperature.

Really simple with the breakout harness to baseline the TPS making sure the throttle plate is entirely closed. Then set the idle position of the TPS with guzzidiag and zero the CO trim. With fresh plugs and a valve adjustment, you're down to the throttle body synchronization, which works magic on Vtwin.

Is it the TPS you're trying to adjust? Or the "tune-up" in its entirety?

Sorry, Zooter, we got off topic there. Do you have a link to the post you are looking at?

How would that look? As in, how would we measure that overcharging effect?

So docc, just confirming the Omron Z2247-ND is the relay for the V11,is that the case? If so why do you recommend these, any particular reason? Ciao That's very courteous of you to ask. The actual OMRON (Sylvania?) part number is : G8HN-1C2T-R DC12 I don't believe this one is "sealed", but you can seal them running a bead of epoxy around the junction of the case and the base. I seem to recall that the sealed unit is no longer available. I've run the original Siemans, upgraded Siemans, Bosch, GEI, and OMRON in my Sport. I've never had relay failure, but have serviced several on the road in other V11. I've never run Tycos, and would advise anyone to change them to something else. The Bosch and GEI are good relays. Yet, I was compelled by the work Ryland3210 did on examining these relays: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=133211 Let's all realize, even with the best relays, if your V11 is stored with the relay contacts open, they may corrode. Storage in damp, salty, or subfreezing environs may aggravate the contact corrosion. Sealed OMRON are just the best available application. Some of the others are *bad* and some are *ok* - but the OMRON appear to be the very best. And for so little money, why not secure this known fail point on the V11?

You ought to able to look into the fuse block and see if the #8 has a connector inboard?

He might be the only in this mix without a Guzzi V11. Youth + Hg = Later-on + V11

My ECS delivery took like six weeks. And that from the US west coast to the central US (adds maybe three days once the driver has his load-out) Made me think there is only one dude staying up all night in Malaysia soldering these things up, after getting that proprietary chip out of Scotland.

Hold the phone! RedLine makes a motoroil suitable for the V11?

And there is an inboard connector at Fuse 8? If so, I would hope that wire goes to the unused 2pin AMP connector formerly used for the Electric Petcock. Now, Zooptie, you and The Royster look to be getting along all Kiwi-like.

Outboard is hot.