docc

Zoopter , One side of the fuse connections ought to be hot, the other open. Ignition on, Run Switch on. (It seems to me, if Guzzi had changed the entire wiring harness when they deleted the electric petcock in 2002, there would be no connections at all in the last position (#8) in the fuse block. ?? )

The Z-plot thickens: I figured the Red/Black would simply show full voltage to the ignition/fuel injection components from Fuse2/Relay 5 with Ignition on/ Run Switch on . . . I switch on and the voltage runs up while the pump primes, then falls off to 8.8 mV. Why wouldn't it just stay at full voltage? Maybe it would if the bike were running and not static? I'm afraid to hook anything to the Blue/Black since that goes into the ECU pin 15 and I don't want to end up like Tron.

I have those same connectors-to-nowhere in my factory harness. Red/Black and Blue/Black wires. (not the Black/Violet and Violet of the TPS) No idea what they might be remnants of, but they have never been hooked to anything on my Sport since new . . . EDIT: Alright, the Red/Black is the power feed to the coils/ injectors /fuel pump from Relay 5 via Fuse 2. The Blue/Black comes from (or goes to) the ECU, pin 15. What would it have been for? Certainly not TPS.

:thumbsup:

Yes:3 drive shaft Zerks; yes:PITA; yes:special fittings;yes:other places need grease (all of the "sealed" bearings (9?), and the outside/RH needle cage for the rear bevel drive), but no other Zerks that I recall. Good that you're working through these, though! Your V11 will love you (back) for it!

$33.35 Shipped. that's really good buying. Costs more than that from ECS just for the one obd2 cable. Truly. When it arrives, please confirm that it is compatible. Very frustrating to have tried a cable that wasn't.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+samantha+fish&FORM=VIRE3#view=detail&mid=6BCD66B6515C20A418EA6BCD66B6515C20A418EA

The wiring harness must have a different part number from the early V11?

Hg is foolish if you ask me. My high school chemistry teachers were extremely concerned with keeping it in the bottle. If it gets on the floor it's impossible to get rid of it and you have vapour coming off forever more. If you accidentally suck in a bit of 2T oil I don't believe it will wreck anything. Would be interested to know what exactly occurs when that happens. Sucking Hg would be an environmental disaster at least. Agreed. If I had to do over I would use the TwinMax or equivalent. Motowfo and I tested them (Hg and TwinMax) back to back and verified the TwinMax is reliable.

Just to clarify: testing for current fluctuation at this point doesn't have anything to do with the petcock itself, but is a convenient point to tap into the wiring harness with no modifications and see that everything upstream is functioning: Ignition Switch, Run Switch, Side Stand Switch, Neutral Switch and the associated relays 1-3. It isolates the last two relays, ECU, coils, FI, and fuel pump.

I suspect the harness for the petcock is still in the loom, (? - maybe someone with a 2002 or older V11 can confirm that this connector is tucked up around the frame unused?) in which case you would only insert a small fuse in the block in case of a short and build the short Go_Winkie to mount where you wish. First ride out today since the install and I forgot to look at it in the daylight. After dark, it is brighter than I would like (brighter than the hi-beam indicator), but out of the field of view. Someday I'll be converting it to a more appropriate bulb or LED. In the meantime, if it gets obtrusive, I'll pull the fuse. So, what about it, did Moto Guzzi delete the petcock connector from the harness (loom) after fitting the manual petcock in 2002?

Yah, the 3pin>OBD is a no-brainer. Lots of guys swear by the manometer. Seems messy to me, but I'm using Hg (how smart is that? The TwinMax works well, but costs a few bucks (used to be about 100US$ here) Good news is, you'll be in the thick of your summer riding season when it gets nasty enough here for me to stay in and work up an updated tune-up thread.

Electric petcocks 1999-2001. The place for the last fuse in the block remains and , as Kiwi_Roy says, is a good place to check the electrical status of a sputtery bike. That interface effectively separates the ignition/FI/ECU from the series of swtchgear and relays: Go_Winkie

Lucas 20w-50 motorcycle oil / full synth

Z, Did you check with the link I posted above ? (http://www.everythingbenz.com/z/part/0009918922-mercedes-socket-end-for-throttle-linkage) I haven't done business with them, but their website looks like they know these parts . . . although I cannot seem to see where they are located.

GuzziMoto has made some thorough posts on this topic. Perhaps he would share his wisdom again here, or you could search his "replies" witht he advanced search tool. Otherwise, I could take a stab at the basics.

droydx, This is, specifically, the FTDI chipped [OBD II > USB ] adapter cable? Could you post a link? I ordered one last week. Came in a jiff. London Electric Guzzi Diag Cables. Well, then, the pair! (Only thing left is the TPS break-out harness.) What's that come to, in US$, shipped from the UK?

droydx, This is, specifically, the FTDI chipped [OBD II > USB ] adapter cable? Could you post a link?

Ah, well, I was hoping . . . Correct that the foot pegs appear "identical" except for the big center channel for the spring on the rider's pegs. The passenger pegs are not sprung, but simply fold. True, a machinist could make the conversion . . . or a local dude with a hack saw, drill press, Dremel tool and a good eye . . .

Did you check with Scud to see if he has one from the 2002 LeMans he's breaking? They look to be the same throughout all the production range, no?

"revenue collection agent" Reports of weave on early Sports were rather common largely due to their soft springs, rear weight bias and soft tires (IMO). This led MG to lengthen the frame, abandon the early Pirelli Dragon Corsa and even (reportedly) redesign the early triple clamps. Weave, being a low amplitude oscillation of the whole motorcycle at higher speeds, was worsened by increasing the damping on the steering damper leading most riders to adjust it to the minimum damping, or even remove it entirely. Wobble, a high amplitude oscillation of the front end, has not been reported substantially on the V11, yet is the condition intended for a steering damper to control. This type of oscillation is most often encountered exiting a corner under hard acceleration which lightens the front allowing road imperfections to introduce the front end oscillation. Uncontrolled, this is the dreaded "tank-slapper." There has been a lot of discussion about this here, and elsewhere, but a couple things are notable regarding the V11: If your damper leaks, it's messy. If your damper is too excessive, you may get more high speed weave. Actual wobble has never been much of a problem on the long, lazy V11. And, finally/most importantly: setting the proper sag with correct spring rates for your weight and style of riding is one of the two or three most rewarding things you can do to your V11!

I had thought the ignition was to be off a minimum time (30 seconds?) before the ECU is disconnected, but I cannot now find that in the workshop manual. Otherwise, disconnect the negative battery terminals first and isolate them then being certain to avoid any contact of the positive side to the ECU case. And . . . a tune-up is always good!

eh - no gumption lately to tackle the updated tune-up tutorial. The TPS harness is a must and the cabling for Guzzidiag makes the tune-up so much easier as well.

That's a VERY nice looking sports-tourer!

2.5 amps when powered up makes sense, but what about idle? If you pulled all the fuses with no change then it's something wired direct. Doesn't the Speedhut have an inline fuse?