docc

I do like this whole round head idea. Maybe when I do my 100,000 mile tear down . . . (only 69,000 for now)

And so, I've tried to get the bike fairly level and warm up the bevel drive. The drop light survived, but I owe my wife a new hair dryer. The case temperature came up to 85 F/ 30 C and the Redline bubbled out when the level plug came out. Looks like the level was about the top of the hole, rather than the bottom. I'm looking at the fluid and guess it's 4-5 ml or about 10-15 % over full. Ratchet's right on this: you can't just put in the specified capacity on refill. I believe the Redline products make this even more so as they are so sticky. Now to wait for a good day to have a winter's ride and see!

Oopf- my hasty reading and half baked sense of linear metrics. "1091" is Ohlins for 160 mm. I don't know how that compares to the Sachs spring length. Still the 85 vs 93 doesn't make sense to me. I recall my sag deceasing and ride height increasing after the shock change, but I can't find any good notes on the specifics. I do, however, have lots of colorful notes on the nuances of various single malts . . .

Interesting. How many miles (kilometers) and what kind of oil in it?

Guido, Was this one of the early units involved in the "recall?" And was the recall done?

In June 2007 I replaced my Sachs with the last known Ohlins built for the V11 Sport. I can only find a couple relevant statistics for the piece (all else is subjective ): First is the $955.94 USD. I'm thinking this adds at least three or four Euros to the resale value. But 9 million lire, which makes me feel better as long as I keep quaffing this nice Belgian ale. Otherwise the spring is part # 1091-26. "1091" is apparently the length in mm and "26" is Ohlins for 85 N/mm. It's hard to imagine the original Sachs was 93 N/mm. This unit is decidedly stiffer. Of course, that's the subjective part . . .

I'll get her up on the stand and pull the level plug. I'm betting she gives a little fluid up. A always, thank you all for your kind input.

Twice now the rear drive has drizzled a little Redline out the vent. And this after just short runs of 25-30 miles and moderate to cold temperatures. The record shows an oil change just 1500 miles ago. I suppose I could have overfilled (that Redline sure holds on!), but are there other issues I should look into?

Is this a new poll?

Hmm, that might be a bit of that nifty Deutsch humor , but otherwse, there is this thread on the forks: Fork Woes

Yeah : .6 seems right. I think I pumped mine up to .9 or 1.0 (I can't remember) with a nice improvement. Now that I've put on another stone-and-a-half, I ought to trade up springs again or give up the Stout.

The "terminal stack" bothered me as well. Look at this thread: Accessory Fuse Box for my solution. The Guzzi has an electrical system like a G-string and is best checked with your tongue.

I'll do it for half. and provide the beer!

You don't also need a head guard and a plug boot? (Just curious, with the valve cover damaged). Check Buell for turn signals; quite similar for 1/10 price . . .

RHIP, On starting my 2000 Sport, I gradually roll the throttle up as she cranks. After about 3-5 revolutions she'll catch. Looser valve specs, a good AGM battery, and careful TPS/throttle body balance are also good medicine. Realize your Veglia tach may read 300-500 RPM high, so expect to set your idle specs appropriately (as in: tach reading 1500 at idle) [YMMV] On shifting: be certain the clutch hydraulics have been bled with fresh fluid. Also, I found my master cylinder spring had broken internally, causing a terrific amount of play in the lever (Master Cylinder Rebuild).

Too big to pin in "How To" or "Technical Topics" on these forums?

DL, having had four Hondas, and this "other" bike, let me encourage you to groom and clean all the connectors you run across on your Guzzi. Be certain you have a fresh AGM battery with tight connections (all of the grounding in this harness goes back to the battery). True, the instrument lights do not go through a relay; only the ignition switch and fuse 6 on a circuit with the tail light. (it's not acting up as well?). The instrument bulbs in the white face Veglias have a reputation for loosing their ground through their sockets. Search for the fix in Tech Topics (it's not that hard to take care of). Still, the relays are a good idea. In short: fresh battery, new relays, clean connectors, RedLine fluids, tune-up from the TPS thread pinned on the Tech Topics forum - great garage project for a Kansas winter! Then, the more you run it the happier your electrons will be! Compared to the Hondas, I expect you will "get to know" this *other* bike better!

Once again, some horrible Guzzi mechano-disaster averted by a simple tune-up. Hats off to all ye who can set a TPS and balance the throttle bodies. More off to those who adjust valves, set the CO trim, and otherwise tighten down the loose bits coming from together. If you want any more to come off than that, you'll need an online subscription and easy monthly payments . . .

Agreed, Emry. It reminds me of changing the head temp sensor holder to brass, but the ECU is not mapped for that and so it is, perhaps, not a "fix' but a "complication".

Har, you Aussie pun-masters . . .

Ooh, hey, what a major Ducati guy I've shown myself to be. That and I've never seen a (picture of a) Supermono with headlights, turn signals and the funky Caterpillar yellow paint panels.

Just to be sure we're on the same page . . . it's the design the 916 was derived from:

+1 on that!

Early Sports often show signs of their seats riding in contact with the battery (ungood). Look for fixes in the archives involving relieving the seat pan with a Dremel and dropping the battery basket under the subframe. An Odyssey shouldn't leak and no attempt to goop it up is likely to help. Try to get your seat pan up off of it so that (as they might say here colloquially), it "ain't squoze." Gas from the intake? Sounds incendiary; also ungood. Maybe time for a good tune-up/throttle body balance with TPS setting?