docc

Kiwi_Roys' tach thread: Veglia tach problem

I'm not sure on that connector. It might be a LeMans thing and not found on the Sports with the earlier Bosch headlamp. I can't see much on the left side above the valve cover with my tank on. (Yours is on the left?)

Pad manufacturers generally have a recommended bedding procedure, so you could check with whomever supplied your pads. Otherwise make sure your pads are in good shape with plenty of thickness (these rears don't start with much material to begin with, maybe 4 or 5 mm). Clean the rotor well with BrakeClean and a ScotchBrite pad or equivalent. Clean the pistons and make sure they move in and out of the caliper evenly. Next, take the bike for a spin where you can do multiple stops without impeding traffic. (Again, you should cross reference this procedure with your pad manufacturer's recommendations): From about 60 mph/100kph make a steady brake pressure to slow the bike to about 10 mph with out coming to a full stop. Come back up to speed and allow the brake to cool and repeat five or six times each time increasing the aggression of the application slightly to end up at 80 or 90%. If the hot pad smell is excessive, lighten up on the pressure. Then ride the bike for 15 minutes or so without applying the brakes or coming to a stop if possible. Even though you're bedding primarily the rear, it is probably good to do the fronts at the same time. They likely also need it and the stopping will be safer. The last time I did this, my pulsing almost completely stopped. As I recall, it was an EBC procedure.

Definitely looks like the kind of thing the Magic Smoke can escape form! Roy! Roy! Roy!

Is it that it pulses while applied or have you actually checked the run out with a gauge? Pulsing is often the result of uneven coating of pad resin and can be evened out with a bedding procedure.

I had my bar weights machined to take the clamps on the CRG mirrors. I was pricey lathe time!

What is the battery voltage ignition off/ idle/ 2500 rpm? House call?

So, that is likely the original battery. Sure, some previous owner might have bought the factory replacement, but not likely. In that case, your charging and wiring systems have a good reputation! Word has been that the "Spark" was made by Hawker. The Hawker Odyssey PC545 is a likely candidate for a replacement. Some say you should also get their dedicated charger. Otherwise, definitely be aware that the charging parameters are unique to the AGM.

Is it a "Spark" brand? Seems like the originals were Spark 500? You might unhook the battery and see if it continues to drop; then the battery would be suspect. FWIW, my PC545 is holding 12.9 after 48hrs and the charge procedure above. How the AGM are charged, apparently, can make a great deal of difference.

This is brilliant! That last one: such a dark bottle and a dark label with the bi-plane and the dark promise . . . in the glass it looks a little "friendly." Buddy, I'm starting to feel a little sorry for you. All the weight of this thread. A different beer every day. See you Tuesday! Gonna help you out . . .

Sheesh! Waited, like, all day for that post. Now, I'm not so sure it is good juju to picture liquids so close to a regulator . . . Guzzi content, sure, but the juju? (kidding of course -I am so digging this!)

I soldered mine back on and voltage went from -0- to maybe 4. Had to replace the stator (if that's the correct term). As you say, this is a common failure point and hard to see without close inspection.

I received my 1986 copy of Mick Walker's Moto Guzzi Twins today. It is Walker's third published work (the first two were on Ducati). I also have works of his from 1992 and 1999. I was curious whether he became more emphatic about the tractor connection over time, but the language in the 1999 text is identical to that of 1986. Having reviewed also the works of Mario Colombo (1977, translated to English in 1990), Ian Falloon, David Styles, and Greg Field, I would be comfortable holding the opinion that it is, in fact, Mick Walker who started this whole misconception that the Guzzi motorcycle V-twin started in a tractor. It becomes a story line that he repeated in print for at least thirteen years, and was repeated by others, so as to be repeated today as if it were true and well founded. Walker was certainly prolific in his writing career with some 130 titles on bikes from all over the world. Yet, Walker was patently wrong that the 3x3 Mule engine was designed by Carcano and that "The [motorcycle] V-twin power unit itself started life as the engine for the . . . three-wheeler . . . " Colombo published the earliest work I can find on the Guzzi motorcycle V-twin (1977) and clearly states "the [motorcycle] engine was a completely different unit . . ." than the previous car and 3x3 units. This is certainly corroborated by interviews with the engineers themselves. I suppose it might be beating a dead horse, but even recently a well respected US motorcycle magazine printed another elaborate version of the "tractor connection" in an otherwise nice article about a very interesting Guzzi. Anyone using Walker as a reference is going to keep repeating the same misinformation. So, write your editors! Carry the torch! Beat the drum! :mg:

I suppose no Guzzi content is OK as long as there is pasta content . . .

Roy, by this you mean the yellow wires coming from the stator underneath the alternator cover at the bottom of the stator coils?

I've used several different tank bags on the Sport over the years. It has never been without one. They were always ugly. Last year I took it off and just use the Teknos. I certainly like the look better and it has not been much less convenient. I'm not saying I wouldn't go back in the right travel circumstance. Doing with out the panniers would be really tough though.

Here are some benchmark voltages on a known good battery, a 3 1/2 year old Hawker PC545 having covered 16,500 miles. The Sport had been sitting three weeks at 56˚F/14˚C. All these voltages are at that temperature: Key off - 12.7 vDC Key on with bright light after 3 minutes - 12.0 Recovery after 3 minutes - 12.6 10amp charge - 14.5 > 15.6 in 2 minutes Then 2 amp charge - 14.0 > 15.6 in 2 hours and 50 minutes. Residual voltage after two hours - 13.0 This is just a battery/charging summary and does not involve the bike's on-board charging system.

Welshguzzi, I see I had assumed when you turned your ignition on the lights came on with it (US bikes do), but your posted engine off (key off/ key on) voltages may be without the headlamp (?)

Hey, your numbers look great with a couple exceptions: I would say an AGM battery at 11.97 is totally flat; should be 12.84 full charged. What's odd is your voltage comes up to 12.3 when the lights come on (?) Also, the Veglia tach in notorious for reading higher than actual rpm. Mine is off 300 rpm and I've seen them high by as much as 500 (the only way to check is by reading what the ECU is getting from the crank sensor using a software interface). In that case, your 1000 rpm indicated idle might be 700 or even lower which will not make for decent idle voltages. So, a couple things to consider: 1) For sure those are your key off/key on voltages and not reversed? 2) Give your battery a proper AGM charge which may require bringing the charge voltage to 15.5 with higher amperage than a typical 1 or 2 amp "trickle charger." Then recheck voltages. 3) Make sure you have a true 1150 rpm idle (I like mine a little higher yet, but "YMMV") You could simply watch the voltage as you open the throttle until the tach needle is about halfway between the 1000 and 2000 marks.

Let us know how they hold up!

Ignition on, engine at 4000 rpm with lights on: 13.5? In other words, (lights on), no change from idle to 4000 rpm?

That is, potentially, a loooong story. Let me see if I can narrow down a starting point . . .

I am aghast! The most profound effort on one of these bikes in some time! I wouldn't want to speak the name of the last ( . . . enzo . . .), but this should be a fabulous result! Can't wait to see the outcome!

Good to hear, here, from The Wizard of Bungendore! Pete, can you post a price? Will buyers need to also get two new sump gaskets? Thanks for making them available again!