docc

Roy, nice work! I'll have to spend a little time studying your result. Take this from a guy who rides with Carl's schematic in my tankbag! The diode apparently developed from a problem with the previous generation ECU which would fail if the battery went below a certain voltage, not just that it's polarity might be reversed. I also travel with this "flow chart" for quick and dirty diagnostics: (revised 4-20-2010)

You're right. Crank case vapors are gathered to the underside of the spine frame behind the head stem and the fluid portion is drizzled back to the crank case from the left side of the frame through a braided line. Vacuum is applied through an airbox line to the top of the spine behind the head stock. I am supposing these are the three lines you are referring to. The most suspect is the formed line from the case to the underside of the frame. It has been known to deteriorate and haze oil vapors out. Otherwise, the banjo fittings should be kept tight on the others for a clean fit.

I thought the consensus was that the TPS unit is sealed and cannot be cleaned . . .

In the past South'n Spine Raids , we've taken rear drive temperatures, brake rotor temperatures, re-gapped fussy plugs, and refitted exhaust cross-overs. This year, I propose to measure the depth of swingarm pins and see just who is right, left, or center. Bring Your Own Spine Frame!

So, Pete, you just set them the same on both sides and Bob's yer uncle? After starting from scratch (no swing arm), mine has ended up 0.079" (1.9mm) to the right using the anal retentive over-killer laser method. It is, in fact, little over 1% of the tire's width, but it feels great to be just right of center.

Actually, no. It would feel more like an in-cab garment fire . . . This sounds suspiciously like Guzzimeister's TPS failure. Is she due for a full TPS, throttle body balance?

But where are the marks? Are they now aligned?

I may be the Average Noob of which you speak! When struggling with a running condition a couple years ago, I did not see the jump in mV in the TPS signal, yet when checking it with the Ohm meter, it was obvious that the resistance would lag, then leap. Replacing the unit made a big improvement. I thought it was pretty simple and safe test. Hubert, do you think there is a trouble in it? BTW, Guzzimeister, what happens if you perform the resistance teat on you bad TPS, slowly opening and observing the milliOhms?

You will always be Col-O'-nel Opa to me . . . Yet, the lovely 'Kathy' will not ever be "Oma." Bringing back old bicycles is a noble art. Or , at least, that is what I keep telling my wife and my credit card company . . .

We're talking Red Frame Sports here again?

Folks have used the bulb method for a long time. And, all kidding aside, you'll need at least six foot bulbs (eight foot is probably better). I used the laser method, marking the floor. Honestly, I discovered this after I removed my (damaged) swingarm, and had to install the replacement. I had not recorded the original pin positions. And, no, they are not just the same on both sides. After the careful alignment procedure, the bike tracked notably better, and turn in feel was improved. I think I got it closer than Luigi had time for . . .

Oh, durn . . trapped in the old six-inch trap are we? No, no, really, I meant eight feet . . same thing . . . no . . . really

The washer is on my 2000 Sport and is shown in the Shop Manual, but not in the rear wheel reomoval; only in the rear transmission section (Section O, page 4). Of course, it is not necessary to remove the bevel box to change a tire, but it is a good idea at every tire change to remove the right side caged needles, clean and regrease then install them rotated differently than they came out. They do not spin, but have considerable fore and aft load over a narrow range of rotation. They will get quite knackered over just a few needles if you don't move them regularly. And they pick up a lot of moisture and road scuzz.

Hey, just a reminder, the swingarm has to center the rear tire behind the front. There are several methods to do this including using fluorescent glass tubes or a laser. Otherwise, the manual instructs to take off the lock nuts and measure how far each of the threaded pins sticks out from each side. They are not likely the same from side to side. Precise centering enhances stability and turn in feel.

Having Moto Guzzi is like having ALFA Romeo! Those fellows say it stands for "Always Looking For Another!":mg: (Of course, I have BMW: Belongs to My Wife)

Aye, then, Franco! Single malt goes well with fork oil as well!

Guzz, Glad you're back on the road! When my TPS went bad, I found it by checking the resistance while it was gradually opened and closed. The progression of Ohms should be gradual with no 'jumps' or plateaus. Mine would stick and jump. The replacement improved running notably. And the resistance check is really straight forward and easier than checking millivoltage. I suppose I should be taking a VOM with me on the South'n Spine Raid.

Funny, we all like to say there's nothing much special about these oils and lubricants, then go on to list, discuss, and debate the infinite details and effects of various specifications. As it turns out, it's not all just yak fat . . . RedLine makes a fantastic grease that, if you can get it into your U-joints, I am sure makes a proper 'greaser' with all the non-saponifying drop-point characteristics a fellow could hope for. That said, it is, once again, the common wisdom that if you can get a little grease (any grease) into those joints pretty regularly, they'll do fine.

And before completely disassembling, note the height of the locating pins which "center' the swingarm. A vernier caliper works well in its 'depth' mode. Otherwise, you must recenter the swingarm with the laser method. (Notably, that may get the alignment much better than Luigi originally could take the time for). Not every one feels the same about opening the seal on "sealed" bearings to clean and add some good grease, but I think I've helped some of these bearings by doing so.

Ahw, ya made me look! Since I never actually got my jacuzzi confirmation, I suppose we'll ride over the divide and meet you back at Mike's. You'll be all pruny by then. And that doesn't account for the effects of grappa.

I believe all of Ratchet's old post will be shown that way. But, alas, a no new posts.

Let's see: Tontis would be any big block after Ambos and Eldos (loops) until the spines (Daytona, Sport 1100/1100 Sport, Centauro and V11s) including all the T variants and all the EV variants even those now being produced (California Vintage). Quotas, Breva variants (including Stelvio), Grisos, and Norges are all different animals.

Oi! A moggie with a Guzzi motor! People (like us) who would want such a thing are just not entirely right!

Rotational lock up and shift lock up are distinctly different. This wheel lock up sounds like what Guzzi warned of requiring changing the shift dogs and such in the early recall. Assuming it is the gearbox, and not the bevel drive or the shaft, I wonder if the serial number is in the recall range (I don't remember it extending into 2002)?

At this rate, it looks like I'll be needing stiffer springs every three or four years . . .