docc

moved here from 24/7 V11

That's also when my problem showed up. I assumed it had to do with something I had done in the flush process, but not so: it was the broken spring inside the master cylinder. (see the thread above "Bled clutch . . ." just in case you have the same affliction.

C, Under the 14mm chrome center cap is an 8mm hex drive which loosens the "retaining nut." Yet, that's on early V11 Sports. You're working on a LeMans IV?

Pete, I think you've gots yer 'moticons out of order (o'course mebbe they do things differently on those big islands!) (Looking forward to the ride report from the Second Ulster Sheep Jump!)

The Cubans have long had a great admiration for robust machinery. Many have said the Guzzi twin is reminiscent of the American V8, and these have been much desired on the island. Having had American V8s, I'm not entirely sure the connection; the growling, torquey snarl perhaps . . . yet, maybe just the threat of short valve guide life!

A couple other issues to consider when clutch actuation degrades: 1) Bleeding the fluid about once a year is helpful. In fact it's easiest to get to when you are changing the rear tire. 2) There have been a couple reports of broken springs inside the clutch master cylinder which shows up as excessive play at the lever. It may be time for a master cylinder rebuild. See this thread :Bled Clutch . . .

Brendan, No need to "re-flash." In fact, a good tune up works magic on these machines: TPS adjustment And, always good medicine to service your relays: Relay Base Repair Keep us posted how it goes. I once heard it said that these motorcycles enjoy a bit of "owner involvement.":rolleyes:

Tried the OMRONs? They may go six sets . . .

Oh, my, no. I follow procedures for a living!

You're about 100 Euro lucky the thing didn't just spit apart! Time for that coat of epoxy to make it permanent!

There is a very old thread on this. I'll have to look for it when the sun goes down. But, from (my failing) memory: The eccentric adjusts the throw evenly between up and down. It is easiest to center with the cover off since you can visually inspect the throw. It can, however, be tweaked on the bike. The adjuster is a three piece affair. The acorn nut is a cover and can be removed to access the adjuster itself. There is a slotted shaft and a lock nut. Note (as in write down or draw)the position of the slot ("zero") and release the lock nut while holding the shaft with a screw driver. It's right fiddly to get to and I found using a 3/8 drive "crow's foot" 19mm open end a good help. Rotate the screw slot 1/8 turn (probably counterclockwise to improve downshift) and lock up, replace on the cap and go for a test ride. A little better? Go another 1/8. A little worse? Go back to zero and 1/8 the other direction. DON'T FORGET YOUR ZERO! That said, we fiddled with these a lot back in the days when the recall was impending and never seemed to do much good. I doubt you took the adjuster apart when you did your spring. It could be more likely that your shift lever external mechanism needs a good cleaning, greasing and maybe even a little shim to reduce play. While you're at it, check to be sure the clutch lever is not showing excessive play at the hand grip and the clutch fluid is freshly changed.

Also worth checking is the circular metal plate that is staked into the plastic housing. These tend to loosen then, finally, pop off spitting out the contents as Stormsedge has noted. Best to press them in and epoxy as with JB Weld. There is an identical angle drive on the speedometer end that you should also have a look at. From that end it is easier to extract the cable and be certain it has not become a two-piece unit.

Good news, David! And thanks for the update. Just for cross reference, there is a thread on "How To" detailing this as well: Relay Base Repair Are you still having to "wiggle the bars" to sort your "under tank wire?"

Agreed!

The Sixth South'n Spine Raid is June 4-6 in Tellico Plains, Tn. Just a couple weeks away! You know Kermit wants to come!

Here's a list of things to inspect, clean or lubricate while the wheels are off for a tire change: (The wheels don't have to be off to do all of these maintenance points, and not all need to be done every time) >Check the wheel bearings for smoothness and play. >Clean and check the brake pads for wear; polish and grease the pin(s) very lightly with a silicone based grease.. >Clean the brake pistons and restore their motion in and out of the calipers evenly. This involves blocking every piston but one and moving it in an out of the caliper all the while cleaning it with brake cleaner. > This good advice from gstallons on brake drag: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20133&p=225343 >Bleed brakes, especially the rear brake while you can turn the bleeder to the top. > Clean the fork seals with a "SealMate", or equivalent, including the dust seals. Performing this simple task routinely may extend the life of your fork seals impressively! >Remove the top and bottom rubber caps from the rear brake master cylinder and inspect, clean, and lubricate. Use only silicone based grease around brake parts (under the master cylinder, inside the rubber cap). Make sure there is good electrical connection to the switch at the top and avoid the silicone based lubes (dielectric) on electrics - simple petroleum jelly (Vaseline®, or better: Caig DeOxit Gold®) will keep the moisture out. Grease does not conduct electricity - it's just to keep the moisture out. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18158&p=192643 >Clean the rear brake carrier pin and block; lube lightly and be certain the pin threads are clean, lubed* and well torqued. (later V11s have a retaining clip on the inboard side). *Consider a thread locking compound. Allowing this locator pin to fall out can be catastrophic! On the early V11 (1999-2002), some have decided to torque the pin in place and only use the sliding block to remove the rear wheel, perhaps reducing the chance that the pin would not be reinstalled correctly and safely. >Bleed the clutch. >Clean the gearbox vent and the rear drive vent. >Locate, inspect, groom and otherwise secure the wiring and connectors from the Side Stand Switch. This is how your V11 gets electrical power to the Run Switch while you are riding along. Without it, you will not be riding along. Might as well have a close look at your side stand mechanism: pivot bolt, backing nut, springs, and foot "lever"(wire loop). Make certain the sidestand bracket fasteners are secure to the timing chest and sump spacer. The main, large fastener here is torqued to 70-75 Nm! Loose fasteners here could contribute to a broken sump spacer. (no need to have the wheels off for this one!) >Inspect the rear exhaust crossover hanger and both of the canister/passenger peg subframe supports. >Clean the wheels and rotor carriers ("float buttons") and lube the front carrier buttons (a drop of Breakfree CLP (or equivalent) works well, but don't let it sling out on the rotor surface. Bumping the rotors around with a mallet helps keep them “floating.” Even out the spacing of the rotor on the carrier by tapping evenly around the perimeter of the rotor with a soft mallet. >Check the torque reaction rod (chassis rod) rubber bushings for deterioration and play. With the rear drive removed and driveshaft separated, service the pivot bolts . Clean the pivot bolts and apply something reliable for corrosion resistance, especially the front pivot that has been reported to break. >Check the rear drive bearings; clean and grease the outboard needle cage and its sleeve with a good waterproof grease insuring that you rotate it to a new position. Here is an excellent thread, by Bjorn, with lots of great pictures of this bearing, the swingarm, and the bevel box internals. [edit 26 April 2018: It has come to light that keeping moisture out of the right side needle bearing protects the "nose" of the crown wheel and the inner drive seal. Once pitted, the crown wheel is difficult to restore.) >Clean and grease the drive splines for the hub. Use something super-sticky, like Klüber Staburags or a dry-film moly coat. Avoid over-greasing (it will just sling off). >Lube the driveshaft and its U-joints. Don't put too much grease in the splined connection or it will trap air and not go back together. Before you take the two halves apart, make sure there are clear alignment marks. Consider verifying the Driveshaft Phasing. >Carefully inspect the driveshaft yokes for signs of looseness, fatigue or cracking. Verify the pinch bolts are torqued and the the yoke collars do not slide on the output or input shafts. >Inspect the shock eye connection to the swingarm. The early V11 white spring/blue collar Sachs-Böge are prone to crack. Grease the pivot bolt and junction of the steel bushing and alloy shock eye! >Service the cush drive. The button head screws will not likely come out willingly, so expect a fight (heat and penetrating oil/solvent) and replace with new fasteners. >Clean and lubricate all the fasteners. I use a small wire brush and anti-seize paste. >Inspect, clean and seal the main ground(earth) cable to the back of the gearbox. You have to remove the seat latch release to get to it. If you find the cable is not directly to the gearbox, move it there, but be careful if you remove the bolt entirely as there has been a report by SeanP61that it might not just go right back in. > Mounting the front of the battery carrier basket beneath the subframe adds considerable clearance for the battery under the seat pan. The front tabs of the basket must be slightly contoured to fit between the frame tubes. > Remove, clean, lubricate, adjust, and shim (if necessary) the foot shift lever and mechanism. They get sloppy, loose, crudded-up, and misaligned. So much better with no play, sticking, or striking the frame side plate on the down stroke. > Clean and lubricate the sidestand mechanism; inspect and secure the wiring to the switch; tighten the vulnerable lower bolt (circled in red) and torque the important upper mounting bolt (70-75 Nm!) [edit 22 March 2021]

Hey, just cause your starter's on the fritz is no excuse! (We'd push you off. No, really). The innkeeper tells me there are still seven rooms available. I don't know that Guzzisti have take up the entire place, but it's looking promising for a good turnout! The Middle Tennessee contingent will gather on Friday morning for breakfast at MarcyJo's Mealhouse on the corner of TN 99 and US 431 four miles east of I65/exit 46. We'll try to roll out of there at 9am and head east the 260 some miles to Tellico Plains. Exit 46, Columbia, has a good selection of lodging, food and fuel for those who might want to stage there Thursday night. (Let me know if you are going to be in town, I'd like to come up and meet you before we head out!)

Is this the rear main seal of the engine or the front gearbox seal?

It is, quite simply, a sign: that you should bring your RedFrame to the South'n Spine Raid. It's been too long since you've been soaked to the bone having to endure an unendurable pace complicated by Norges and EVs. No, really, you should come on over. . . (again) (Glad to see you on the forums!) docc

Discussion moved here form tech Topics... ooh, but I do love Lotuses (Loti?)!

Roy, What changed that was "major?" (I keep downloading/printing and and adding to my Workshop Manual.)

Most of the grounds (earths) are back through the harness to the (nefarious) stack of terminals on the battery. The regulator and the instrument illumination both, apparently, ground to their mounting. the whole system does benefit from enhancing the ground paths, from anchoring the bulb holders in the instruments to adding a ground strap between the engine and frame, or building a junction block to get the terminal stack off the battery. Because the engine is "stressed" and becomes a conduit for earthing, it's probably good medicine to remove/clean, and apply copper anti-seize to the frame mounting bolts.

Bob, Could you post a picture of your "modified" grease gun fitting? It would be helpful to know where and how much to grind, and the right fitting to start with to make this a "2 minute job." TIA, docc

Pretty scary, you dredged up the Twitchy Vixen thread. I hope if my Twitchy RedFrame bites me again, it's not in the @$$. After re-reading that thread, it's still not conclusive if the actual caster angle changed. When I posted the question in Geometry 101 ,no real conclusion was reached. Really, how could trail be increaseed from 92mm to 104mm with no change in caster angle (or even a half degree)? I share the inquiry of the Dutch enquirer: did the steering angle really change?