docc

Thanks for the tips! The seal changed pretty easily. I still haven't run it in to see if it holds redLine. During the cleanup I found the rear U-joint had spit off its Zerk fitting. I couldn't find one angled so fitted a straight then tried to grease it with a needle. Between that and the front, the whole thing is a fiddly greasy mess. I do think I managed to get some grease in the joints this time.

Ok, then, good to go! (sort of ) The seal's out and in. Thanks for the pointers. I decided to pull the drive and do the job on the bench. Easier, I think, than lying on the floor. While out, I cleaned up the U-joints and figured I'd go after them with the grease gun again. Indeed, the grease fittings can go missing: Now to try and find a replacement. I suppose it is angled, what, 45 degrees? And this is pipe thread or something otherwise special?

One way to check the TPS is to disconnect it and check the resistance across the contacts. As the throttle as opened very gradually, there should be no "jumps" in the progression of resistance. When my TPS played up, I could not find it checking the change in mV, but the resistance reading showed the "jump" very distinctly. That said, you may not have a TPS issue at all. intermittent spikes in the charging circuit will also do this. Check the charging voltage while opening and closing the throttle while running. Again, there should be no "jumps" or interruptions. Unfortunately, this is not a very sensitive test. Perform the "wiggle test" while observing the charging voltage "wiggle" the yellow alternator wird and the harness to the regulator. Look at your 30 amp charging fuse for melting or burnt contacts. Also, inspect the yellow wires under the alternator cover where they are (or should be) soldered to the stator. You mentioned your "FI warning light." What's the status on that?

Hey, Grumpy, Did you try contacting G&B directly to see if they had any info on the piece? (I thought sure someone here would know exactly what it was. Paul??)

The big seal on my rear drive has been dripping. I have a new seal, but need to be sure how to remove the old one. Can it be simply pried out and the new one tapped in?

Not likely either coincidence or misprint. The trend in the auto industry has been toward lighter oils to increase overall assessment of the manufacturer's average fuel economy across their product range. I wonder if Guzzi has succumbed to this as well as I doubt the tolerances of a 2005 V11 motor differ from those of the prior years'. Indeed, the ZDDP content is important, hence the specification for SG oils. A substitute would be diesel ratings CJ-4 or CI-4. Friction modifiers in those big bores are a bad idea.

Pretty simple to do a "voltage drop test." Simply test the voltage across the battery with a digital VOM, then across one of the horn's contacts. Even with the bike not running, I would think the voltage should be with in 1.0 vDC. Are you running fused relays with a frame ground, or still routing all current through the switch? This is the reference thread for Serious Horns

For the bullet clutch switch connectors, consider copper anti-seize paste; all the water dispersion with the advantage of conductivity! Then, the 'heat shrink tubing" or the equivalent.

That looks like an ideal job for JB Weld. Once applied and cured, it can be drilled, tapped, shaped and painted. Did it get bumped somehow?

Hi, Rod, Before you try to get the sensor out (their holders are bad about breaking), I don't think there is any oil in contact with the temp sensor. Where is your leak showing up?

Looks pretty typical; certainly not too rich. More importantly, does the other side look identical?

My original Bitubo was pretty dangly in the joints. My replacement Shindy is much firmer on its joints, but the joints on the Bitubo didn't have any play or damage. Note that the lock nut which anchors the center mounting joint can back off allowing the joint itself to be loosely attached to the fork clamp. Worth checking. As to whether the bike really needs one . . . my RedFrame Sport certainly feels less jittery accelerating out of a rough corner with the damper. Apparently, most riders run their dampers in the most loose position. Ha . . . "most loose" . . . reminds me of this girl I knew in high school . . .

Wurth products have a very good reputation. The thicker and stickier and more water resistant products do best on the wheel drive splines as it limits how much will sling off. While the wheel is off, have a look at this simple Maintenance Checklist in the FAQ.

It is the same on the V11. Vuzzi, since your crossover seems to be low, it will be good to clean all the connections and be sure the pipes, both fore and aft, are pressed fully in. This might require removing the head tubes to insert them into the crossover, rather than trying to push the crossover up onto them.

I don't think mine went together with that much strain. One centimeter doesn't seem so bad, but I'd be afraid 2 cm might strain the connection at the head. Is there still that much misalignment with the system all loosened up? Are all the parts stock?

Hey, Monkey, It'd be great to see a picture of that finished product! I took the bait and refurbished my purple-grey Teknos. I've had these on the bike ten years and they've been very good. Yet, I did have to seal a split with black RTV silicone, re-sew a torn strap, and the rigid boards in the side flaps have completely disintegrated. Before applying the Krylon, I scrubbed the bags with a stiff brush and hot soapy water. After drying overnight, I applied the Krylon and once completely dry re-sealed with Scotch Guard water sealant. Warning: the result was good enough that my wife had me refurbish a faded lamp shade. You've been warned . . .

For sure, there are three contributors to failure of the clutch circuit to allow the starter to engage: #1 is failure of the exposed connectors under the left side of the tank. #2 is the crud that accumulates between the lever and the switch including the little ball in the channel of the housing (all easy to clean). #3 is the switch itself which is a $5 fix. Rotating the bars to one side then the other trying the starter button would indicate the connectors are suspect if this triggers a start. The US vapor recovery system weighs five pounds. That is not quite 1% of the bike's weight without the rider.

Like so:

On the stock crossover there is a 3,5 cm rubber spacer and a harder 1,5cm spacer between the bottom of the U-bracket and the tab on the crossover. This all bolts up tight. The harder spacer goes next to the exhaust (above the rubber). A picture is seen on page L-6 of the Workshop Manual for the Sport.

The clear pocket is for maps?? I thought it's for the wiring diagram!

You are right, it is the clutch switch connectors. They are under the tank, forward along the frame on the left. These are simple bullet type connectors which ride in the weather coming in along the steering head. They benefit from cleaning, tightening, and some insulating grease like copper anti-seize or Vaseline. While thank is off, it's good to clean and lube all the connectors, groom the wires and be sure nothing is binding or tugging especially moving the bars lock to lock. It is possible the switch itself could use cleaning or even replacing, but most of the time it's the connectors. How do mean the speedometer is "vibrating loose inside?" Does it make noise or simply the needle is not steady?

It helps to loosen all the clamps and fasteners from the heads all the way to the hangers, then hook every thing up loosely before tightening it all well from the front to the back. The idea being to reduce strain on the exhaust especially where it fastens to the head. It's a good time to clean up threads with a wire brush and apply copper anti-seize, particularly the head studs. With that, it may still take some wrangling especially with some of the aftermarket crossovers or canisters.

Check this FAQ for any helpful info: Corbin Seat Advisory

First Veglia was replaced under warranty at 27,000 miles for waivering 10 mph at highway speeds. The new speedo waivered at low speed, which was more acceptable. Until the trip meter locked up and the needle starting flicking 10 mph every four seconds (44,821 miles). Upon disassembly I managed to break both the reset and the glass. The little plastic gears inside look less than perfect. I have ordered a replacement (298 USD + S/H and a couple weeks), but I wonder if anyone has successfully had a Veglia rebuilt or should I just convert the space to something more useful . . .

Also, "Test Point Layout" and "Guzzi Wiring" do not appear in the FAQ threads. Perhaps they need a thread of their own. I'm afraid to mess with this now, since my efforts have not been effective. Jaap, looks like "Testmember" has Moderator status and may not function like a "normal" member. (Everybody knows Moderators ain't normal.)