docc

I'd love to see this bike in person. I think it's one of the most stunning of the V11s! No wonder you were stopping traffic on the BRP!

Front brake: multiplied by eight pistons. And the capacity of the reservoir must accommodate the wear of the pads causing the fluid level to drop.

I think it is more of a surface area issue. The blades of the ATC fuse are already small, but the clips only grasp about 25% of the blade. What prompted me to change them was the opinion of one the board members (I'd have to go back and look to give proper credit) was the heat cycling will have surely destroyed the tensile strength of the metal. To reiterate, though, I tried an external ATC fuse holder whoch also melted the fuse or burned off the blade. So far, the MAXI fuse has been 100%.

This is amazing, Jaap! This bike started as your 2002 LeMans, no?

Well, the yellow stator wire was broken inside the alternator cover, but had not "de-soldered." It was, however, hard to see and find. No doubt the very small clips (female connectors) in the fuse block are hard pressed to handle the 25+ amps of charging. They only make about 25% contact with the ATC fuse blades (when they're in good shape!). Replacing the charging (regulator) fuse (#3) with a MAXI fuse will be part of the solution. Ah, if only, The Answer were just one thing!

Whew! I forgot what a long thread that was! I found this for an answer: Raz's summation. : "I'd just say try the pinned How-to and if it don't work out good, try Micha's method instead. Or the other way round if you wish. Probably one of them (or both) will produce a nice running bike." Also, Ryland noted that low battery voltage could contribute to frustrating variations in results .( Now, I'm paraphrasing . . .)

The two most most mystifying issues for me have been the melting 30 amp regulator fuse and the yellow stator wire that detached itself under the alternator cover. I am preparing to post an FAQ reference on these electrical resources. Yet, I'm waiting for Roy to post "the rest of the story " . . .

Oh, this is classic! Like we think we've got all this Guzzi figured out. I love the Cali Vintage. I tried to convince my wife we should trade our Volvo on one. I'm pretty sure she'll let me move back into the house before long. "V11" is the motor, no? So, all things "motor" are V11. I wonder that the electrical system is also of the "V11" era (five relays, FI, and an AGM battery?). Yet the frame and gearbox are "old." Lovely, desirable and interesting, but "older' than the spine frames with their six speeds. Suspensions may differ but brakes are very similar. (but are the Cali's linked?) Looks like a guy with a Cali/V will have to be all over the forums. And the rest of us may have some learning to do . . .

2005 "Scura?" Mysterious! I thought no V11 were made after 2004 . . .

I'm not sure what you mean by TPS at 245mV. The two standards are fully closed plate at 150 mV (+/- 10 mV) and idle at 5.10-5.35 (some like it higher). Where are you setting the 245mV?

Have you simply bled the clutch fluid? They really benefit from fresh fluid about once a year. Ergonomically, you can adjust the lever so it is closer to the grip and rotate the assembly such that your wrist is not tipped up or down, but is straight along the back of the forearm to the back of the hand. Moving your sitting position closer to the tank takes pressure off the wrists and hands. These are the simplest things I think you could do to make an immediate difference.

And, so, the eBay bob-job swamper sells for $5,232.41. My well maintained Sport must be worth $11,900 again.

With all the road closures in the mountains, I think we'll all come to the niece's wedding. Oh, yeah, the famlee's gonna love this! And the next time you say "I'm going riding with 'some guys,'" they'll be more *enthusiastic.* (If only you just don't bring the whole lot around to the reception again.) Let us know if we can help you out . . .

For sure. The way I came up with 32mm drop on Bob's Sport was to measure the width of the clip-on which is ordinarily below the clamp and add the 3mm thickness of the cap. I should subtracted the thickness instead since his is flush with the top of his clip-ons. That still makes for 29mm and a whopping big drop! If the fork springs are original and the rider is over, say, 185 pounds, the turn in must be very abrupt with some tendency for wobble. I had tried mine at 10mm (+ the stock 3mm), but found it more stable and reliable on turn in at 8mm (including the cap thickness). Bob's used to the big drop, but most of the rest of us might find it like Mr. Toad's Wild Ride!

Looks like your reference voltage from relay2 is correct (You mean you shut the headlight off at the switch, yes?) Just to confirm: Voltage from the alternator seems correct, and the bike starts and runs. Headlight, horn, brake light are good. Tachometer does not function. But do the charge/oil and hi-beam warning lights come on with the ignition switch?

Slavo, I agree with Roy that there must be a short in the harness somewhere. What is the voltage on the Red/black wire? Will she charge if you apply battery voltage to that wire into the regulator (applying battery voltage into the harness at the red/black may only induce the short!)

No crap to give! Good news, no mouse nests! Check TPS Set-Up and Throttle Balance Tuning for a (relatively) concise TPS/throttle body balance procedure. Waiting to hear how this next step turns out!

Of course, I secretly want this bike. It reminds me of this one:

Still sounds like some stiffer fork springs would be good medicine. More damping won't change the sag or the dive. Check that front sag (it's easy with the zip tie). If it's more than 38-40mm, new springs are the answer.

Increasing the air bleed screws, the CO trim, and the valve adjustment may all increase RPM at idle, but without opening the throttle plate angle (which is read by the Throttle Position Sensor). This is why the valves should be adjusted (to "world spec") and the CO trim should be zeroed (by Axone or VDSTS) when the baseline TPS is set at fully closed right throttle body before establishing the idle TPS setting and opening the air screws back up. Then ther air screws should be closed to establish initial Throttle Body balance off idle (like 2000-3000 rpm) before setting the air screws out. Some say: use the air screws to balance TB at idle, book says 1/2 turn both sides. My Sport likes a full turn each side. On top of all that (and there's more), your white face tach is a liar . . . (shocking!!)

That is my cranking voltage also (4 year old Hawker). When my stator wire broke, the V11 ran for maybe 20 minutes, but then became very unhappy. Slavomir, I'll have to go all the way back through your thread and try to understand better your trouble. Are all other Relay 2 functions normal? (headlight,horn, warn lights, brake light and tachometer?)

It is as you say. The meter shows 156k Ohms with the leads disconnected, even unplugged from the meter. Must be internal to the meter itself. Thanks again for all the help.

Or a mouse nest in the airbox?

How could a shaft's alignment marks have gotten off a half tooth? Twisted somehow?

Dan, your '02 'long frame' LeMans has the clip-ons mounted above the clamp, yes? Is that 14mm the stock positition just allowing room to attach the clip-ons? (The RedFrames came with clip-ons under the clamp and only 3mm extended above the clamp - just the fork cap in other words.)