docc

It looks like the pin that stands in the upper "toothed gear" of the shift mechanism. See Section N, pg. 26, of the Workshop Manual. Looks like it's shown on C9 of the parts pdf (no idea how to post that image).

I'll let you know how it goes when the ambient temperature turns off cold. I don't want to loose that magic on the crisp, cool morning rides! With a "heat index" of 105F today (over 40C), which accounts for the oppressive humidity, I do look forward to those crisp, cool morning rides with the sound of Mandello Magic in the air!

If the play at the lever is found tho have increased substantially, it is time for master cylinder rebuild. The spring inside can break (mine was in four pieces!)

The observations of empirical changes by an experienced rider are not theoretical. Otherwise, winning race teams would not have their riders giving feedback to the technical people. Certainly, my experience or observational abilities could be discounted. Yet, I'd say I know this bike pretty well, and that I've "tested" the three set-ups adequately to make valid observations. Please note: this is not a continuation of the old thread. That thread became the debate, and derision, over how and why the modification functions. No agreement could be reached on the mechanism of action. All attempts to debate or even define richer, leaner, heat sink, inertia, conductivity and so on devolved into a thread where the technical content is all but impossible to retrieve. There has been much interest in this Engine Temperature Sensor over the years. No one can be sure why Guzzi changed the holder to plastic. I would say if yours breaks, and you don't want it to break again, Guzzi dealers can sell you the brass sensor holder. After two years riding with the brass holder and a thermal paste, I thought it important to post that my Sport runs better with the stock sensor holder and no paste. The difference with the Delrin holder with no metal or paste whatsoever is substantial; feels like a fresh tune up.

There's more than one *animated* thing I'll miss about you, Or'Okie! Hope the road smiles to meet you and the sun is always upon your back.:bier: Ride well, Shoot straight, docc

It may not be "one" thing, but let's start somewhere: groom the fuel line away from the left cylinder. Some shielding material is helpful. If your pump (or even the filter) is mounted there (above the left cylinder), be sure it's pushed as far forward as possible in the clamp. The electric petcocks are rather flinky, and the manual replacement is more reliable. The basic Tune-up with valve adjustment, TPS setting and throttle body balance are also good medicine! Keep us posted, eh?

"Where are we going and what are we doing in this handbasket?"

Yes, the light relay (second from front) gives a reference voltage to the regulator. Look at the FAQ for a method on tightening the relay bases: Relay Base Repair

Woops, meant to add this:

Altering the holder for the Engine Temperature Sensor has been the topic of much trial, error, and debate. After almost eight years and over 55,000 miles, I decided to swap to the brass sensor holder (GU 30163301) and packed the housing with copper paste. Not that I needed to change it, but it was all the rage at the time and my Guzzichondria got the best me. I wasn't sure it ran any better, in fact I thought it got a bit worse, but went on to chase down a series of other, mostly electrical, issues. I rode the Sport two years, around 14,000 miles, before switching back to the original plastic/composite/Bakelite holder with no packing paste. Right away, I felt she ran a bit better. Not a lot, but a bit. So, taking the path less traveled, with the help of TFMKasRH (The Former Member Known as RatchetHack), I removed my thermister from its crimped housing using a Dremel with cut-off wheel (I figured I could JB Weld it back if needed since new sensors are 105 USD), fabricated a Delrin holder using a 22mm length of copper stud and 5mm air gap with stainless steel set screws. I have only ridden it five or six times with a total of maybe 250 miles. But, here are my observations so far: 1) Low angle throttle transitions are much smoother. Rolling into a corner, I've become accustomed to some unsettling sputtering and burble which caused a little hesitation as the throttle was rolled on for the exit. This transition is notably smoother making for much smoother and reliable cornering transitions. 2) Idle and low throttle angles, especially at low (under 3000-3500) rpm are more stable. The motor has never liked to plod along under 3000 rpm (I know it's a bad idea for other reasons) always bucking and sputtering especially right at an indicated 2800 (my tach is 300 rpm high BTW). This sputter is entirely gone. 3) There is much improved high temperature sensitivity at traffic lights and parking lot maneuvers. It has been quite hot here and the first test ride was some spirited riding into town then sitting in traffic and navigating a parking lot at 96 degrees Fahrenheit (35˚C). There was nary a hiccup or sputter or stumble. With nearly 72,000 miles and ten years riding this bike, this is unprecedented. 4) My fuel economy is unchanged. TFMKasRH noted a 10% improvement which I thought would be great. Alas, so far, not so for me. Summertime I get 35.5 - 37.5 mpgUS (sure 40-41 at steady throttle with no cogging and hair shirt corner exits, but who wants to ride like that?); wintertime (under, say 60ºF) 32.5-34.5 mpgUS with the lower figures closer to my 40˚F/ 4,4˚C riding limit. I am really enjoying the smoother, more stable character. On a zero to ten scale (zero= not running, ten= running phenomenally), my Sport is usually an 8-9; 10 on a cool crisp morning at 5000+ rpm, and 6-7 in hot traffic. (Well, there was that once or twice it was a zero!) Right now, she's giving me a solid 9-10 even with the heat. With this much seat time for comparison, I'm looking forward to getting some time and miles for a more complete impression. Hey, maybe I'll end up with those other 3 or 4 mpg! EDIT: August 21, 2014 - with almost 20,000 miles on this "modification", I can say it has performed flawlessly. I was concerned the thermistor would just burn up, but no. The wiring connector did come undone once, and the holder loosened one time. My fuel economy never improved, but the harsh running in hot conditions never returned.

I thought the valving is simply holes calibrated to allow oil passage. How could they wear?

Separate oils. Most would say your gearbox will shift more nicely with Redline. While you've got it apart, clean your external shift mechanism thoroughly and maybe even shim it for any play at the pivot shaft. Take the opportunity to bleed the clutch fluid. Your LeMans is a 2002? How many miles?

Drain the drive oil while hot, if possible. After removing the brake caliper (support it so it does not hang on the hose) and the wheel, leave the axle bolt partway in to support the rear drive. Once the torque are bolt is out (might require drifting), the shaft can simply be pulled apart at its slip joint after the axle bolt is pulled out. There is a small spacer between the rear drive and the wheel. Be certain the alignment marks are clear, otherwise make new ones. It is a good time to also clean and inspect the shaft and U-joints with new grease. (I found one of my Zerks had gone missing). Here is a recent thread on my effort: Rear Drive Seal /replacement And a few tips on some things that could use a little loving while you have the wheel off: FAQ Maintenance Checklist

That's a beautiful sight! I can't believe you are taking your basketball goal with you on top of the kayaks. What a dad! My Workshop Manual says the regulator should maintain battery voltage between 14-14.6 volts. (2000 V11 Sport)

To give the proper credit where the credit is properly due, it is the article Moto Guzzi V11 Sport in Motorcyclist, October 2000, where the author, John Burns, concludes by saying, "Progress is sometimes a while in coming at Moto Guzzi, and sometimes Guzzi progress has a slightly regressive quality to it - but overall this is a fine piece of work in need of a little owner involvement or maybe just tolerance." If Burns had known, at the time, he would have said, "Expect to join V11LeMans.com; post prolifically, it's part of the owner involvement." A "fine piece of work" indeed!

I'm thinking my ground (earth) lead from the battery goes to the gearbox, but not the frame. I've never gotten over 14.0 vDC, either new or with new regulator and new stator; and with all the connectors rubbed up and a frame strap from the motor. I've always made do with 13.6-13.8. You lucky chaps with 14 v must be able to power up some toasty heated jackets and such!

Workshop manual for the 2000 Sport says 3,5 -4,5% and a variation of 0,5%

And now with mo' betta spellin' (thanks to MOTOwfo, my personal spell checker!):

I was going to make a sticker that said exactly that, but I ran out of seat!

Home made! I can make one for you, but then you could be living in your garage like me. Says my wife, "Oh, that's great for surly guys and thirsty dogs." On top of this, I had to make a temporary speedometer while waiting for my replacement from Piaggio:

Mouse nest in the air filter? The 1100 Sport-i is not a really old Guzzi and the FI is very similar to the V11. If you don't get much response here, let's move the thread to Tech Topics.

I should never have read any of this as there is now a puddle of fork oil under my left fork. These forums can be bad JuJu. Or maybe it's the 71,500 miles . . .

The only M6-1.0 45 angle available to me locally is much too large for the space. I tried to "see" the one in the front, but *ha.* Even with lighting and a dental mirror on the end of a long hemostat, I could only focus on the little bugger with one eye; and even then through a less than optimal segment of my corrective lens. Even after ten years, the damn U-joints remain elusive. In fact, I think I doubled my vocabulary today . . .

Thanks for the tips! The seal changed pretty easily. I still haven't run it in to see if it holds redLine. During the cleanup I found the rear U-joint had spit off its Zerk fitting. I couldn't find one angled so fitted a straight then tried to grease it with a needle. Between that and the front, the whole thing is a fiddly greasy mess. I do think I managed to get some grease in the joints this time.