docc

Sorry, Roy, I misunderstood what you meant by "dash lights." Definitely, the Warning Lights (except for the neutral light) come through Relay 2. I checked my running voltage at 2000 rpm: 13.5vDC. Charging stops when I pull Relay 2 (12.4vDC), so whatever that wire does, it must have voltage from Relay 2 for the regulator to charge. With no horns, headlamps or tach, a problem at Relay 2 would still explain the low charge. All of Raz's and Roy's tests are right on the money, and worth doing. For the simplicity of replacing a relay or repairing its connections, I would certainly try that first, get the lamps on and tach working and recheck the charging voltages.

The instrument illumination is on another circuit (Fuse 6) with no relay. I've been told the regulator wire to Relay 2 is a "voltage reference." I suppose if there is no reference voltage, the regulator may not trigger charging. Sounds like it would be worth getting the relay fixed first and see if charging is affected.

That is true,the RedFrame steering angle is lower (maybe 0.5 degree) and the trail is less, and the wheel base is shorter. But also, the later frames have more bracing both forward and with-in the subframe for the swingarm. The later rear wheel width was increased to 5.5" and the front forks/clip-ons were changed as well as mounting the headlamp/instruments on frame instead of on forks. All this in an effort to reduce weave and vibration. Oh, and notably, the early RedFrames were delivered with very soft, pointy Pirelli Diablo Corsa tires. I don't know if later bikes had more substantial springs, but the early RedFrames were pretty soft.

That would be two tricks, no?

Assuming the Sporty is "well sorted," one the Beemers could give up a nefarious rear drive . . . You're keeping a shift spring on a chain around your neck for proper V11 VooDoo?

I've moved this discussion to a new thread since it's important and didn't need to clutter the TPS thread it came from. Good stuff! Carry on!

We could probably help you get it sorted. Those failures point to Relay 2 (second from the front). I'll bet your brake light also will not come on, nor the hi-beam /charging/oil warning lights. Take the seat off and give relay2 the wiggle test.

I presume your man cut new spacers for the forks (he added some millimeters?) and cranked your rear preload up a bit as well. What do your sag numbers look like now? Mmmm, that GB, it's a little sweety. Soon-to-be-vintage, too!

Picking the back up 10mm will make a noticeable difference in ride. Weighting the front is a good thing and is likely to give you quicker turn in and less high speed weave. Resetting your front and rear sag should be next on your list assuming you've got the correct fork springs for your weight. You're gonna like this!

Removing Fuse 4, Fuse 6, and the Sidestand relay, the test measures 1.3 Ohms Ignition on and 155,000 Ohms off. I think my Guzzichondria is cured. . . . for now . . .

Wow. Forty dollars? I'd sure be interested in what the pro could do for you for forty bucks. Quite a bargain. Have a great ride and get back to us on your impressions. Suspension tuning is one of the three things that bring these bikes to the Ethereal Plane. Number Two is electrical and the third is a deep, dark secret.

Here I thought the airbox had to come off as well . . None the less, Increasing your preloads will certainly help the sag. Your target numbers are around 25-30 mm (25-30% of travel) and , some say, a bit more sag to the front. An extra 5mm makes the street more friendly. The final solution will be correct springs for your riding weight; likely something a bit stiffer than your stock fitment. I found that increasing fork preload on the soft front springs for my 180# weight limited rebound travel enough to scuff my leathers. . .

I'm supposing we'll kick sidestands up at 0900 EST from The Lodge at Tellico in Tellico Plains, Tennessee. Walt, the Inn Keeper, has a restaurant there and we'll head out from that coordinate after a proper breakfast. The Saturday route remains dependent on the status of rock slides and road closures as we draw closer . . . Can't wait to see you! docc

I remeasured with the Sidestand Relay removed and Fuse 4 removed: 15 Ohms switch off/ 1.2 Ohms switch on. Amazing the difference with no current in the system. I suppose the procedure should be noted.

Roy, Couple questions: I cleaned my ignition switch (45 minutes) after getting a test reading off 600 Ohms. After, the resistance is 589 Ohms. Should I expect 5 Ohms or a variation of no more than five Ohms switching off and on over a series of trials? If the Test Point Layout is drawn as if we are looking down at the relay bases with the relay removed, my Test Point "k" goes to ground. Am I looking at the diagram wrongly? Thanks for the feedback!

Whew! It's not "TPS", but a Red Frame dropped 32mm . . . Mine's down 8mm. I tried 13mm and it was ungood. (3mm is the stock standard and stands the fork cap just above the triple tree). Maybe we should have a new thread: "How Low Can You Go?" (I'm sure Ponti is the winner!)

What a grand result! You must be very pleased. How long did you have her in the works?

Must be so. Try pulling the panel again and wiggling the bulb, the socket, the wiring to see if it affects the bulb and localize the fault. Those warn bulbs all ground together, so it could be a ground fault. Something is loosing connection.

I've checked my voltage drop today while switching to a Silver Star Ultra (9003SU). I haven't had good life out of the standard Silver Star (4000 miles), but Sylvania assures me they'll replace it if it plays up inside 12 months. Worth a try as I really like the color and projection pattern. Voltage drop adding each leg from the battery to the connector: 0.5 vDC. Voltage drop measuring across the battery and subtracting the measure across the connector: 0.6 vDC at 2000 rpm This connector is fed and grounded by 16 gauge wire, through a 10 amp circuit breaker and separate OMRON relays for high and low beam in the bucket.

Ain't it great when it turns out to be something simple?

My Traxxion Dynamics springs were $116 US shipped from GA. Add eight or ten bucks for oil and ten bucks for beer . . .

Roy, You've looked at your CO trim with a software interface?

A couple systems that really benefit from frame grounds are the headlights and the horns. These are also the systems that benefit from a separate fused power feed to auxiliary relays . . . Moving the terminal stack to a 'bus' or junction block is also good electron medicine. As is strapping a ground wire from frame to block on the motor's front. Veglia gauges benefit from anchoring the instrument light bases to insure grounding. There is no benefit to using smaller relays in any of the five positions. Relay 5 runs the fuel pump (as well as the injectors and coils) constantly and, you may notice, it stays a bit warm. After using five generations of relays (2 Siemens, Bosch, GEI, and OMRON), I have no doubt that the OMRON are the best available. We can thank John Mickowski (RYLAND3210) for the extensive work on this. If you have Bosch or GEI, they are, frankly, okay; just not best.

I recall at least one fellow experimenting with connecting this and found no real effect. Yet, I'm sure that was based on 'riding impression.' I suppose it should technically be based upon an exhaust gas analysis. Still, this is how the regulators were delivered; open to atmosphere. Interesting, though , the impression of "running rich." I recall reading Greg Field's account of the development of the Sport1100 heads by John Wittner in Moto Guzzi Big Twins, (MBI Publishing Co, 1998) about the use of "fuel cooling" on the Battle Of the Twins motors and how that was considered inappropriate for production leading to the delays developing proper alloys for the heads we have today. (My goodness, but I have paraphrased rather deeply!) It makes me think that wet valves are happy valves and I don't mind the extra fuel. Lean, or ultra lean, conditions are not for air-cooled push-rod big valve motors with broad piston surface. Sorry if your eyes water following me through the mountains on the South'n Spine Raid . . .

That is a very nice diagram. One of the greatest shortcomings of the V11 Workshop Manual is the notorious absence of these assembly diagrams complete with torque values. Perhaps the CD-ROM Manual I have is different. I've only ever used the "four ring" hard copy binder. It's much more fun to put greasy fingerprints on than a silly CD!