docc

Those Sport guys . . . bunch of renegades, they don't want to be registered; like a collie. Absolutely wild and untamed; those Sport guys . . .

Wow! Ain't she sweet with those AC Cobras!!

No, no little screw on your ECU. Your CO trim will have to be adjusted with a software interface (Axone or VDSTS). As delivered, my Sport was " -27"; bringing it to "0" brought the idle up several hundred RPM and made it more stable. Fuel economy did not change. 460 mV seems low for idle. Another advantage to the software interface is to read the RPM from the crank sensor and compare to the indicated RPM on the tachomater. Early (Veglia) tachs often read 300-500 RPM high. The result is that you should tune with the correction in mind. In other words, a 300 RPM high indication would dictate you set your idle at an indicated 1450. Happy idle=happy oil=happy charging.

At six weeks out, it looks like there are six riders already registered at the Tellico Lodge. Already, two or three will have their wives along and we'll get to meet one fellow's young son! There are two or three others riding over from Columbia that will split off for the Keith Code Track School at Barber's on the new BMW sportbike. There are often a couple who drop in on us unannounced just cause that's their style!. So far, I'm counting four spine frames in the mix. They've become so valuable and vintage no one really wants to bring them out of the garage . . .. They're like Vincents, you know . . . Really, if you're anywhere close, come on by at least for the evening on Friday or Saturday and we'll all compare oil hose routing . . . or you could go ride 195 hp BMWs in Alabama (tough call, I know . . .) Ride well, docc

AAuuughgh!!! Now I've got Double Guzzichondria! :o

I've got it. I've got it bad . . .

They were in the end, but early on (1986 through, I dunno, the late 90s) they were fully designed, built, and assembled in a dedicated plant that made all the major components on site (drive train, body panels, and chassis) They were quite good little cars and the plant was atypical for the industry. Then GM took it over, retooled it to build a heavy crossover vehicle then shut that part of it down. Of course, nobody said they knew what they were doing . . . in fact, now every one knows they don't. Next time, we'll talk about the Saturno . . . just to prove that our Forum Administrator is a well rounded sort.

Your wife has a Saturn? They used to make those here . . .

No indication looking at the old gearbox what could have been the trouble? If your 'new' gearbox is a 2002, consider keeping a spare shift spring on hand . . .

You're in the right place to keep your Sport up to snuff! These guys have kept me going 70,000 miles! Your 2004 will not likely have the shift spring failure. That appears to be largely a 2002 feature. All of Jason's advice above is, of course, right on the mark. I would add: make sure you have a fresh AGM battery (like the Odyssey PC545) and the best relays (I use the OMRON). It won't be long, you'll have to change your username to something more, er, "experienced!"

I was probably not careful enough in my post, but asking if the other indicator lights (oil and hi beam) may also be out in addition to the battery (charging) indicator. If none of the indicators burn, look to the headlight (#2) relay, or perhaps Fuse 5. (The neutral indicator light is on another circuit) EDIT: Jamie, I realize you were talking "charging' lamp, and I didn't mean to confuse matters asking about the other indicators, but I had Sport over a couple days ago that the charge lamp was out and we traced it to the second relay. Otherwise, I remember these bulb sockets having grounding problems. There's on old thread (I think it was Callison) who showed how to epoxy the buggers in place with JB Weld for better reliability.

yet, the oil light does come on with the key?

I'm not sure if I've ever heard of a V11 getting better than 42-45 mpg (32-36 is more common). Yet, that is US gallons. I would still think that would give you no better than 47-53 miles per Imperial gallon, and more likely 45. Looking forward to hearing how she runs out!

By "10 lb.", you mean you turn the pins in until you get ten pound-feet of torque on a torque wrench? How did you determine that measure? I could only turn them in til the bearings bound and back them off "a reasonable amount" (maybe a quarter turn or less). And, as I recall, you did your tracking alignment by the glass tube method. I used a laser, but wonder if my pronounced left side tire wear would resolve if I centered the swingarm . . .

That post is "worthless" without . . . .

I had the privilege of tuning another V11 sport today. The swingarm pins were symmetrical (within 0.002"). Maybe mine shouldn't be to the right 0.079" . . . Can anyone else check the depth of their swingarm pins inside the lock nuts with a Vernier caliper and compare side to side?

You're not talking about "head guards" that fit over the plug wire and protect the valve cover? It sounds like you're after the tubular version that fastens to the frame and protects the entire cylinder . . .

Wait, but . . .

My headlamp relays are in the headlamp shell with dedicated 16 gauge wires and separate relays for hi and low. Two years ago I installed my spare OMRONs for the relays. Grounding goes by 16 ga. back to the frame (right side of the spine/ fuel pump mounting bolts. I'll have to do the voltage drop test and report back. Two volts lost is astounding! And, you know, it goes through the switchgear = ungood. I am looking forward to going back to a high intensity bulb (Silver Star or PIAA) since I think my broken stator wire was arcing and spiking the bulbs after 4,000 miles.(The PIAA lasted twice as long, but cost twice as much).

I did not know that the swingarm centering could be adjusted on loops and Tontis like the spine frame's side plate pins. I'm suggesting we can measure the depth of the pins inside the lock nuts for symmetry (or not) and see how off center the swingarms may be on the spineys that we can get our little grubby calipers on. If you come to the SSR and dubious parties are plying you with high octane grappa, it may be that dark forces are at work pushing calipers into your swingarm pins while you are otherwise diverted. Don't say I didn't warn you . . .

My Buell lenses are an outer smoked (Y0039.K) and an inner amber (Y0040.K) which do not require a bulb change. Yet, of course, they are "smoked" and not the original amber outer lens. Mebbe these are just for Scura wannabes like me . . .

And JB Weld or an equivalent reinforced epoxy (like Devcon) wouldn't set things straight without replacing the pump?

Good advice here. Notice: no mention of a dyno run. I can't imagine you would need that to get your Guzzi to run right. And, here in the States, I suppose it would add at least $250 to the tune-up.

Roy, nice work! I'll have to spend a little time studying your result. Take this from a guy who rides with Carl's schematic in my tankbag! The diode apparently developed from a problem with the previous generation ECU which would fail if the battery went below a certain voltage, not just that it's polarity might be reversed. I also travel with this "flow chart" for quick and dirty diagnostics: (revised 4-20-2010)

You're right. Crank case vapors are gathered to the underside of the spine frame behind the head stem and the fluid portion is drizzled back to the crank case from the left side of the frame through a braided line. Vacuum is applied through an airbox line to the top of the spine behind the head stock. I am supposing these are the three lines you are referring to. The most suspect is the formed line from the case to the underside of the frame. It has been known to deteriorate and haze oil vapors out. Otherwise, the banjo fittings should be kept tight on the others for a clean fit.