docc

That's what I did: a hard wired fuse holder outside the fuse block. Yet, it's still obviously very hot. Not sure what to do next . . .

5 amp is the correct fuse for the ECU in position one. I seem to recall some fellows having trouble with this fuse. While using a bigger fuse may be a handy road-expedient way to limp home, as a long term solution it just makes it harder to get the smoke back in the wires . . .

My set-up doesn't get wobbly until half the single malt is gone . . .

That's the Fuel Injection relay that provides power to the injectors, coils and the fuel pump. I also had the GEI fail in that position and recently went to the OMRON. I never did have any Bosch trouble , but replaced them 'for good measure.'

Well, the 30 amp fuse in the external holder burned off its contacts without blowing the fuse. I found this when the battery light came on. Since then I have removed the rubber cap from the fuse holder and relocated it to a less congested location. Still, the fuse runs 150-160 degrees F while the other electrical components (fuses and relays) do not exceed 98. I'm thinking of going to a full size fuse as is used in the power distribution consoles of automobiles.

Ratchet's advice is golden. , oh , yes, and also . Also, beware of front tire wear. I just replaced a Pirelli Diablo Strada after about 4600 miles. I had to start turning up the steering damper as the wear got more advanced. How many miles on that front tire?

Yah . . .right up to the point we leave Vonore for the NC loop . . .

All right, Joe: bringing an entourage! I think our route from the west is a little longer. Still, we should roll in before 5pm. Of course we lose an hour coming from here plus we'll be on "Guzzi time."

Hey, I learned quite a lot last year! I've even practiced looking in my mirrors once in a while.

Right now it looks like three silver Guzzis leaving here Friday with a Ducati in tow (if I can keep him in sight). With you and your former Ballabio (JoeGuzzi), that should make for the quiet, tasteful un-event we've come to expect. And with the venue changed from last year, it should take the cops that much longer to find our parking lot hangout. Maybe not 'til Saturday night.

Friday morning looks like side-stands up at 0900 at the Cracker Barrel I65, exit 46. We'll go some 220 miles over the Cumberland Plateau to the hotel at Vonore , near Knoxville. Let me know if you are coming in Thursday night so some South'n hospitality can be arranged. Every day my Sport gets hungrier for the road. Today I thought she would siphon off all the air in middle Tennessee just to swallow up the road ahead . . .

You guys remind me of my kids. I suspect you've been in the liquor cabinet while Jaap was away . . .

Traxxion Dynamics supplied some very nice aluminum spacers with my springs all cut nicely and beveled internally. The stuff must be available out there.

Hear, hear! Tho' Vonore would be a great place for a wedding and reception. We can move the bikes back a little so there's room in the parking lot. I'm sure she'll understand . . .

Thanks for the reminder. I've actually used both methods over the years with more years having the right screw defeated. At this point I've been using the left screw as 'primary', but turning the right screw in just to make a stop. It's more than likely probably redundant. I always check the mercury sticks at both idle and rpm.

Theorizing that I had already set the TPS for a given rpm, I simply turned the throttle screws in to bump the idle up. Next tune-up interval I'll go through the whole process again. Perhaps by next week I'll have some fuel economy data while I chase the heat source in my wiring harness . . .

Well, this changed the running more than I expected. The idle dropped about 200-300 rpm. There is more 'burble' on engine braking (leaner?). And the throttle response 'seems' crisper and more linear. I've gassed up to see if the fuel economy is affected. Thanks again to everyone for sharing their tuning secrets!

Some GPS coordinates could make this dangerously interesting. Of course you could deny all knowledge of the intrusion . . .

It looks like the finning would help protect the connector and wiring from head temperature heat while the tip of the pick-up is still in contact down deep.

I've done the brass sensor holder. Packed the space with copper jizz. I'm anxious to see if it affects performance or fuel economy. The sensor came out easily ("finger tight"), but the plastic holder was a bit#&. It took a combination of four wrenches to back the thing out. It never broke. I can't see how taping the fins could make a difference with the tip of the sensor immersed in copper against the bottom of the holder.

Judging by the Hagan-Factor, I would say the Norge is not spineless! And then is there is the Barber's Vintage event in October. Without you you we would freeze and die. But . . . it's your conscience . . .

Bleed the clutch fluid?

Bleed the clutch fluid?

I've had my 'safety bolts' out almost since day one (55,000 miles). It is helpful when you torque the pinch bolts to do them up in stages. If you tighten on and then the other, the first will likely need a little snugging up.

TC, Use the *pinned thread* for throttle body synch. One or two of us do it a little differently, but it is an outstanding baseline procedure. I reset my Sport every 4000-6000 miles. Ride well, docc