docc

The sensor is also voltage dependent. When I changed to the new battery the light comes on much sooner (0.4 USG sooner, or about 2 liters sooner).

Ryland, thanks!

Those coil mounts are visible from the front above the oil cooler and behind the subframe. There are three mounts. You can push on the coil bracket and see if it moves.

1) Tachs in the UK seem to do this more. I dunno why 2) Clean and tighten the shift linkage; consider Redline Shockproof gearbox oil. 3)Agood tune up works miracles on these bikes. See the pinned thread on TPS above. That said, the vibes under 4500 have really started to bother my hands. More and more I'm riding at 5000 rpm; the bike seems happier and my hands are , too.

Injection units "reset?" How so?

It went out today and should be in NY before the week is out.

Seems like the later 1100 Sport i had upside down forks, but yours have the male sliders on top, yes?

Sounds like the springs would be comparable for a fellow of your weight with a V11. Comparable numbers for the Marzocchi on the V11 are 5 wt oil with 100mm air gap. I know your shock s White Power; what are the forks? You must give us a ride report!

53,909 miles. Nose2wind is always nosin' me out though . . .

LA is not quite in the neighborhood unless you're talking "Lower Alabama." Wish I could pop by . . . I'm sure I got lost on this somewhere, but wasn't there some Yankee Scura in this deal?

Josh, I thought your Sport already had different springs, no?

Not that this would actually create a noise like that, but it is worth checking the shock's eye bolt to the swing arm to be sure it is complete (not a half eye) and not cracked.

Here's the best we've got : TPS and throttle balance

Soon to be vintage? Like most of the riders . . .

Adjust the valves when "stone cold." Freshen your plugs up at the same time (the motor is lots easier to turn with them out). Use copper anti-seize on everything. Consider setting the TPS and balancing the throttle bodies for that complete freshly tuned effect.

Yeah, that part worries me; and has bit me more than once. I just thought a little clean and lube might be good medicine . . .

I replaced the relays at 13,500, but had been fussing with the problem for at least a couple thousand miles. Even a change at 12,000 probably wouldn't have caught it in time. My accessory jack is fused straight from the junction blocks for the battery without any relay.

The manual states a specification for vacuum difference between cylinders (7 mbar or 0.5 cm Hg) and for CO (0.3%). How could you adjust the CO "maximum unbalance" if it were out?

I did see one V11 do this until a good tune-up was performed. The owner swore it had already been done, but afterwards it cleared up his misfire.

13,500 miles on the FI and ECU GEI relays. I did find the uncovered fuel pump connection which may have contributed to the failure.

First thing check for a loose or leaking intake rubber. After that you might want to join the relay club . . .

I've got to take my starter off to try and get the neutral switch to work again. Can the starter and solenoid be cleaned with contact cleaner or is that a bad idea for the magnets I've heard are glued on? Should I leave it alone (54,000 miles) or is time for some preventive maintenence?

I thought I had wired the last additional relay to the Sport. Yet, the additional starter relay sounds good and it could be tucked up above the starter which is pretty close to the positive terminal. I've got to take the starter off to try and get my neutral switch working again; I'll look for a good mounting location. What size wire for the hot supply? Is 14 gauge enough or should I go with 12? The simplest solution may be a change interval on the relays. 12,000 miles?

Starter and fuel pump are different relays. What Phil said, try new relays. Dan Prunuske

I think I would like it better in Tenni green with some boxy panniers to give it a more rugged look. Are there any critical specifications available: weight, fuel capacity, price?